Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

[sajjt]

Originally Posted by princesirohi

there is no warranty on electronic parts
i have cut all the couplers of ape rr to connect it

Did they say so? I got a replacement once from them for one of my friends. Even the local shops will do that if ur return it without delay.

Thats obvious, no one can give u a replacement once u tamper it.

Originally Posted by princesirohi

if the battery is deeply discharged, the rr will try to charge it and draw heavy current, and in the process, if it eats more than it can chew, it will blow. afterall lower the battery voltage, more the charging current of ape rr. isn't it?

Battery will receive what ever u give till it top it up risking its life span. APE RR will pump max 20A AFAIK, beyond this limit it will block the excess current. But how can a 8 pole alternator pump to blow 20A rated RR?

Originally Posted by princesirohi

what !! but someone told me it shows upto 18.xx volts in open ckt. dont remember who. and what is the logic in it showing only 5-6 v in open ckt. ??

one more thing- is it harmful to check the ape rr open ckt voltage??

When I tried with open ckt, it gave weired readings like 5-6v max, I've even tried to short the terminal to the body to test the current strength, but its too weak to give a good spark.

I think it won't hurt badly. if it can, I would've gone for a couple of times to APE SVC for fresh pieces in the initial days

I guess the battery volt will trigger the regulator function in APE RR.

Originally Posted by princesirohi

U can cross check it by connect that RR to the battery not more than 2-3 secs once the motor is running @ 2K and check the voltage. If the voltage is steady on14V range, its fine for the time being and check for the voltages on higher rpms and current as well with the same procedure. (Do not connect the AC inputs while the motor is running, fiddle with +ve output only) If its crossing the safe level dismantle it and head for APE spares and negotiate with them for a free replacement.

couldn't get you man...dont connect the AC input to rr then how will it give output??

There's some confusion in reading my post what I meant is, connect the AC terminals before u start the engine to avoid surge which is not advisable to fiddle with.

Hope this clarifies what I meant.

[princesirohi]

Originally Posted by sajjt

Did they say so? I got a replacement once from them for one of my friends. Even the local shops will do that if ur return it without delay.

Thats obvious, no one can give u a replacement once u tamper it.


Battery will receive what ever u give till it top it up risking its life span. APE RR will pump max 20A AFAIK, beyond this limit it will block the excess current. But how can a 8 pole alternator pump to blow 20A rated RR?

don't know, but then why did APE RR fail ?

When I tried with open ckt, it gave weired readings like 5-6v max, I've even tried to short the terminal to the body to test the current strength, but its too weak to give a good spark.

I think it won't hurt badly. if it can, I would've gone for a couple of times to APE SVC for fresh pieces in the initial days

even i had accidently shorted the RR unit output wire through ammeter to battery negative in my last RR, and till now, i suspected that - that ape rr failed because of that. and now you are saying you have also done it but ur rr didn't fail, SO WHAT IS THE REASON MY 2 APE RR'S FAILED IN LESS THAN A WEEK.???

I THERE SOMETHING WRONG WITH THE COIL OR WHAT??

I guess the battery volt will trigger the regulator function in APE RR.



There's some confusion in reading my post what I meant is, connect the AC terminals before u start the engine to avoid surge which is not advisable to fiddle with.

Hope this clarifies what I meant.

Ya ... got it now

so what do u think is the reason for my 2 ape rr's failure... one after other??

today i got my battery charged up at a shop, so battery seems to be fine.

[sajjt]

Originally Posted by princesirohi

so what do u think is the reason for my 2 ape rr's failure... one after other??

today i got my battery charged up at a shop, so battery seems to be fine.

There's no chance in wrong with coil and routing the wires from coil to RR is also good. Remaining is routing or DC through stock harness.

U r using a a new harness right? Can u give some details of the wiring from RR to electricals step by step including which wire u've chosen for routing DC to switch assy etc.

I don't've a BCU version to cross check, its better to identify the wire colour codes with someone who's done DC conv on UG3 before u go for a new RR.

[princesirohi]

Originally Posted by sajjt

There's no chance in wrong with coil and routing the wires from coil to RR is also good. Remaining is routing or DC through stock harness.

U r using a a new harness right? Can u give some details of the wiring from RR to electricals step by step including which wire u've chosen for routing DC to switch assy etc.

I don't've a BCU version to cross check, its better to identify the wire colour codes with someone who's done DC conv on UG3 before u go for a new RR.

ok, so coil seems alright even to me.

DC conversion is simple.

• ape rr output wire is connected to white wire - which goes to battery through fuse. this white wire was earlier the DC wire used to charge the battery.
• now in UG3 only headlight and pilot lamps used to run on AC. for this the BCU used to input AC through a yellow wire from old rr unit. this yellow wire is now connected to brown wire (from ignition switch) through an external switch. so instead of AC we are feeding DC to BCU headlight part. the additional switch is used to disconnect at starting so that starter can work
• thats it.

the thing is bike runs fine with all electrical equipments running fine, when ape rr is disconnected and everything runs on pure battery alone. when i connected ape rr output to white wire then ape rr failed.

[Above_All]

@ princesirohi is it possible for you to open the dead ape rr ? if so please post its pics & details what you found inside it .

[Abhijeet Bhattacharjee]

ape rr output wire is connected to white wire - which goes to battery through fuse. this white wire was earlier the DC wire used to charge the battery.

are you sure about this part. (I'm holding back my comment cuz I'm not sure if whatever I'm thinking is correct)

[shoeb2015]

Originally Posted by sajjt

When I tried with open ckt, it gave weired readings like 5-6v max, I've even tried to short the terminal to the body to test the current strength, but its too weak to give a good spark.

Sir ,
I have found that not only ape RR but all oem RR's give weird reading like 5-6v max open circuit.
A battery is required is required to trigger the RR .

[sajjt]

Originally Posted by princesirohi

ok, so coil seems alright even to me.

DC conversion is simple.
ape rr output wire is connected to white wire - which goes to battery through fuse. this white wire was earlier the DC wire used to charge the battery.

Originally Posted by Abhijeet Bhattacharjee

are you sure about this part. (I'm holding back my comment cuz I'm not sure if whatever I'm thinking is correct)

Exactly.

The white wire is stock battery charging/discharge wire, but being with troubles, why can't we route the RR out wire with a thicker wire to the battery than the stock puny wire which will hardly handle less than 3-4A? Its better to leave the stock wires from the RR side as we are not sure about internal tappings. I've given the RR out wire to the starter motor relay hot wire with a fuse.

Originally Posted by princesirohi

now in UG3 only headlight and pilot lamps used to run on AC. for this the BCU used to input AC through a yellow wire from old rr unit. this yellow wire is now connected to brown wire (from ignition switch) through an external switch. so instead of AC we are feeding DC to BCU headlight part. the additional switch is used to disconnect at starting so that starter can work

the thing is bike runs fine with all electrical equipments running fine, when ape rr is disconnected and everything runs on pure battery alone. when i connected ape rr output to white wire then ape rr failed.

Is this the way to handle the BCU? Am not sure, I'ven't tackled with a BCU before, the BCU will sense any live wire before it give power to the cranking motor AFAIK, right? I feel for that a separate switch will be enough and most of other fellow members are doing the same.

BCU needs AC to powerup and for that u guys feeding DC at full throttle? Doesn't smells anything? Ping Drji and get a confirmation on this.

I strongly feel that there should be something wrong in the wiring else, how could the BCU went for a toss only for u where others are enjoying the DC without any hassles? It might take time to find out what happened. Its better to follow someone who's done the DC conv on a UG3 like Drji or Pavan or so as my resources are limited in this.

Originally Posted by shoeb2015

Sir ,
I have found that not only ape RR but all oem RR's give weird reading like 5-6v max open circuit.
A battery is required is required to trigger the RR .

I've tried this trick with APE RR only, when I tested with UG4, it was working fine with battery. I guess this applicable to full wave rectifiers only, stock half waves will work fine without a battery atleast in Pulsar.

[Above_All]

@ sajjt bro what turn off the headlight in UG4 Pulsars if engine is not running to avoid battery draining . Is there any special circuitary ?

[sajjt]

Originally Posted by Above_All

@ sajjt bro what turn off the headlight in UG4 Pulsars if engine is not running to avoid battery draining . Is there any special circuitary ?

There's a control unit called BCU (Body control unit) which controls all electricals in Pulsar/Discover UG3 onwards. It will sense the electrical generation from the alternator coils and decide whether a particular function has to be triggered or not. From a layman's point of view its a smart black box which controls all electricals in a very smarter way and have very unique features like smart battery utilization, auto beam swap in case of any of the filament blows off to avoid any mishaps etc. but from moders viewing angle, its just a head ache box