Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

[princesirohi]

my queries in bold

Rahul, princesirohi, there's a correction for wiring, u cant simply cut the yellow wire and feed to RR, as the stock RR is a AC+DC type, one of the light coil is grounded which is to be isolated to get the full DC output. And black wire from stator coil grounded within the harness to be isolated too. So ineffect, we need to fully isolate the yellow and black wires from the harness after isolating the grounding from the light coil and then feed to the new RR. (so u r basically combining the two coils which are now separate for more power, is it? r u connecting in parallel or series? wht will be the output (how many volts) of the two coils combined? won't there be phase shifting in current?)And the RR DC out to be fed to the batt, and one more wire cut from the stock RR AC out wire (YR) to be tapped to the ignition switch out wire(Br), ( which wire r u talking about and why? )u r done and the wiring is on DC now, except the re routing power supply thru relays. Feed the SPST relay coils from the H/L beam wire/stock socket and take the power directly from the batt for the bulb with a higher guage wire. This is the wiring I am using and I feel rather depending on the harness fully, the isolation part will take care of any internal shorting or so. Wrong wiring can smoke the entire harness, even power from a mean 2.5A batt will do the job in secs.(i am already using relays and thicker wires for HID, actually we purchased a car wiring harness and cut out th usable part and used it. )

Rahul is right, for an HID no need of coil rewinding required, only the recharge rate is to be altered. But u need to open the stator cover for isolating the grounding wire

Once u do the above wiring mod, all ur lights will be up as earlier but on DC, but if u r not going to rewind, u may sacrifice the pilot lamps as its eatingup of good chunk say 20W (pilot lamp is 5w each so 10w only)from the batt, note that ur HID rating is only 35W! and u may not get enough backup,but on higher rpm rides, will not affect this. Or u can even change to LEDs costing 100-300 range, better go for the higher range will offer a good life span.(where can i get these LED's)

Its a tricky mod, Am not sure about the outcome of keeping two RR. (i had done some research in using two RR's. took out my old engineering text books and found out that it is not possible in moderate cost. it needs some real hi-fi circuitry to do that. so dumping that idea) In case if u succeed too, u need to rewind the batt charging coil to boost the charging rate, what do u think? which is more easy? And why do u want AC lighting with you man? (so that pilot lamps and digi console does not put additional load on battery. and i have a BCU too which may not like my bike changing to all DC)Evenif ur batt is flat too, if u got an aux lamp, still there's power from the RR just like u get from the AC lighting. I used my HID with a flat batt for 2-3 days, but my coil is 130W+ after rewinding.

Being with a single HID bulb, I strongly recomed for an aux light incase of an emergency as in case of failure to the HID, u'll be left in the darkness, no body can give u a spare HID bulb/Ballast from local spares.

Am on full DC for the past 4 months and everythings are as smooth as OEM. There are other members like Abhi, Shree etc. who r running on DC more than a year and they will vouch for this. If u do the wiring mods correctly u've nothing to worry, else, u've lot to worry Better take help from an experienced auto electrician not mech and brief him what all things are to be done, to avoid confusion later.

Now u decide what to do and Goodluck.

wht do u suggest--

1) the wiring going from magneto charging coils to RR unit are cut and joined to APE RR unit and APE RR unit output to battery. this way i am replacing the RR for AC to DC conversion only. AC regulation is still being done by old RR. will this increase charging current?

2) as u said combine the two coils in stator and convert to DC?

is option 1 a feasible option.

anyway for both options i need an APE RR unit. so i will purchase it and try 1st method....if unsuccessfull.....i will opt for 2nd.


btw i m leaving office today evening and heading for pune from aamby valley which is say 75 kms....lets see if my HID lasts that enough.

[rahuldevnath]

didn't get you, there is no wire going from stator coil to starter relay. starter relay receives all DC supply.

Actually sorry for not making it clear. Stator coil is not connected to relay, anyway it's just the location. From stator coil, there's a wire going to the RR Unit. You have to cut the wire midway. Now you have 2 yellow wires. The one coming from stator coil goes to a custom rectifier, which again is routed to the battery. The one now connected to the the bike's RR unit is routed +ve of the battery, directly. If you would have been in B'lore, it would have taken just 10 mins to do the whole mod.

If you are comfortable with little of electronics, I can assist you over phone.

Rahul, princesirohi, there's a correction for wiring, u cant simply cut the yellow wire and feed to RR, as the stock RR is a AC+DC type, one of the light coil is grounded which is to be isolated to get the full DC output.

Am on full DC for the past 4 months and everythings are as smooth as OEM. There are other members like Abhi, Shree etc. who r running on DC more than a year and they will vouch for this. If u do the wiring mods correctly u've nothing to worry, else, u've lot to worry Better take help from an experienced auto electrician not mech and brief him what all things are to be done, to avoid confusion later.

Sajit, in Pulsar UG3, it's as simple as cutting a wire. In fact If i'm not wrong, I was the first on Xbhp, to suggest the particular idea of Custom Rectifier. I had done the mod on Pulsar UG3 of mine, my friends P150UG3, back then in 2007. It has been 3 years, and at least 30,000Kms with the particular mod, with HID installed.

Correct wiring is important. I can't say about other bikes, but I can guarantee the mod will work on Pulsar 150/180/200 UG3.

[pavanchirmade]

By the logic of the custom rectifier by rahuldevnath, it should work on any AC+DC electrical system on a bike. I too am running the same cricuit by rahuldevnath and a 35watt H4 HID. It runs fine. Even in stop and go traffic. The only difference in rahul's bike and mine is that i am running an avenger 180's coil.

[sajjt]

Actually sorry for not making it clear. Stator coil is not connected to relay, anyway it's just the location. From stator coil, there's a wire going to the RR Unit. You have to cut the wire midway. Now you have 2 yellow wires. The one coming from stator coil goes to a custom rectifier, which again is routed to the battery. The one now connected to the the bike's RR unit is routed +ve of the battery, directly. If you would have been in B'lore, it would have taken just 10 mins to do the whole mod.

If you are comfortable with little of electronics, I can assist you over phone.

Sajit, in Pulsar UG3, it's as simple as cutting a wire. In fact If i'm not wrong, I was the first on Xbhp, to suggest the particular idea of Custom Rectifier. I had done the mod on Pulsar UG3 of mine, my friends P150UG3, back then in 2007. It has been 3 years, and at least 30,000Kms with the particular mod, with HID installed.

Correct wiring is important. I can't say about other bikes, but I can guarantee the mod will work on Pulsar 150/180/200 UG3.

Its nice to hear that UG3 requires only one wire cut mod, but this particular setup is for an AC+DC for boosting the charging rate. And one more thing, if its to boost the charging rate, why u r suggesting APE RR in between? Ur old mod was to tap from the lighting out from the stock RR and fed through a bridge rectifier right? I remember u've posted the previous pic that time too and seeing that I gave u a suggestion of using a bridge rectifier module instead of making a BR of 4X6A diodes which can be bolted to the chassis with a good heatsink.

Here we are discussing of converting to full DC,APE RR is a tried and tested solution for full DC conversion, so keeping the stock RR along with that will be a nice idea? And what about the coil grounding inside the magneto casing? With that grounding you will not get the full output of the coil, I've tried and failed and later Abhi only pointed this to me. Once I've done this, the result was very amazing. I dont know about UG3's coil grounded or not, but as an AC+DC system, its should be grounded.

my queries in bold
wht do u suggest--
1) the wiring going from magneto charging coils to RR unit are cut and joined to APE RR unit and APE RR unit output to battery. this way i am replacing the RR for AC to DC conversion only. AC regulation is still being done by old RR. will this increase charging current?

2) as u said combine the two coils in stator and convert to DC?

is option 1 a feasible option.

anyway for both options i need an APE RR unit. so i will purchase it and try 1st method....if unsuccessfull.....i will opt for 2nd.

btw i m leaving office today evening and heading for pune from aamby valley which is say 75 kms....lets see if my HID lasts that enough.

Prince, after reading Rahul's post, pls try Rahuls idea for boosting the charging rate, not with the APE RR but with a bridge rectifier since he vouches for it and u desperately want make it as stock condition with min wire cuts. Try this then.

Option 1 is smart bypass the stock battery charger, but u forgot onething, ur stock batt coil wont give more than 2A with an open throat RR is that enough for u? And if still want to keep that idea, I would suggest u to go for P180UG4 RR full DC costs only 450/ whereas an OEM APE RR will cost u 1100/- but results will be disappointing from the stock batt coils.

Hey, I never said that I joined both coils together, I've rewounded both the coils 2 years back for a 90/100 halo, but keeping mind that I may switch to an HID. So rewounded the batt coils too which was giving a 3.5A from stock RR and not sufficient for the HID. Am using my light coils only for DC conversion, batt coil is still idle. I never thought of joining both coils as the light coil itself is almost 130W+ which is more than enough

[princesirohi]

LATEST UPDATE:

1) My Battery did lasted a 75 Kms run but at the end of that journey i used teh starter and it could give only 2 cranks to engine and after that battery fully discharged. then u used the bike for some time in day (withing city only) and again battery was charged up sufficiently to give 4-5 starter cranks again used bike in eveining within city with lights off. so battery got charged little bit and while coming back to aamby from pune i could use light for around 30-40 mins.

2) Using a multimeter, i took some voltage and current measurements of my bike.

DC measurements
RR unit output for battery charging at 1200 RPM = 0.4 Amps
RR unit output for battery charging at 4000 RPM = 2.5 Amps
RR unit output for battery charging at 8000 RPM = 2.85 Amps

RR unit output when battery is fully charged = 14.5 Volts
RR unit output when battery is fully discharged = 12.25 Volts

AC Measurements

Lighting Coil Voltage = 13.5 Volts AC (On No-Load Condition at 1200 RPM)
Lighting Coil Voltage = 40 Volts AC (On No-Load Condition at 4000 RPM)

Charging Coil Voltage = 13.5 Volts AC (On No-Load Condition at 1200 RPM)
Charging Coil Voltage = 40 Volts AC (On No-Load Condition at 4000 RPM)

@ pavanchirmade: ur system may be working fine, b'coz you are using avenger 180's coil, which may be giving more output.

@ Rahuldevnath: u say that lighting coil output is to be connected to a rectifier which will charge battery. this way charging current will improve but upto what extent ....is unknown as lighting coil is designed for 35 watt only, so that means its output will be 3.0 Amps approx. which is not sufficient. I need atleast 4.0 Amps. one more thing as i have measured coil voltage increases with RPM so if we connect a home made rectifier to it. we will be applying a very high voltage to battery, which may be dangerous. also if teh output of custom made Rectifier and stock RR is paralleled and fed to battery. it won't work. remember thevinin's theorem in networks, i did some research yaar, i dont think we can use 2 battery chargers to feed one battery unless by some means we can equalize their voltage.

what we can try is replace stock RR with APE RR and measure the current. then connect lighting coil to APE RR and measure the current. which ever is higher can be retained. but there is a problem to connect the lighting coil to APE RR unit (or even to a custom made rectifier) we need the other end of coil, which is grounded in current configuration.

other than this i think only coil rewinding is left.

i need battery to be charged at the same rate as it is discharged.

@sujjt: yesterday i realized that my bike is already on full DC as ....untill i switch ON a separate switch mounted additionally by the mechanic, headlight, pilot lights and digit console orange light does not turn ON. sorry for my ignorance.

@Sujjt,rahuldev, shreni: is it possible to get satisfactory charging rate without coil rewinding.

one more thing, since the current UG4 pulsar is all DC, what if i use UG4's stator coil and RR unit?

[Shreeni0403]

Sajit, in Pulsar UG3, it's as simple as cutting a wire. In fact If i'm not wrong, I was the first on Xbhp, to suggest the particular idea of Custom Rectifier. I had done the mod on Pulsar UG3 of mine, my friends P150UG3, back then in 2007. It has been 3 years, and at least 30,000Kms with the particular mod, with HID installed.

Correct wiring is important. I can't say about other bikes, but I can guarantee the mod will work on Pulsar 150/180/200 UG3.

Yup, idea behind the custom RR was/is Rahul
But it didn't work out for me anyways will keep u bugging

@Sujjt,rahuldev, shreni: is it possible to get satisfactory charging rate without coil rewinding.

one more thing, since the current UG4 pulsar is all DC, what if i use UG4's stator coil and RR unit?

If u can get wiring diagram of UG4 then do check it. That will be a OEM setting which should be much reliable.

Bro, I am not very sure of Pulsar's charging rate but I ve done more than 4 hours with HID on stock RR on my Unicorn which is very much fine for me. Sajan - I know I am yet to check the charging amps

I am not using APE RR now as the Delhi made APE RR conked off.

Apart from headlight what else you think is running on AC .
Sorry haven't read all the lengthy posts

What I would suggest is to go with the already tested reliable solution rather than doing trial & error and finally end up somewhere in dark roads without light which will be worse case !!

[sajjt]

LATEST UPDATE:

1) My Battery did lasted a 75 Kms run but at the end of that journey i used teh starter and it could give only 2 cranks to engine and after that battery fully discharged. then u used the bike for some time in day (withing city only) and again battery was charged up sufficiently to give 4-5 starter cranks again used bike in eveining within city with lights off. so battery got charged little bit and while coming back to aamby from pune i could use light for around 30-40 mins.

2) Using a multimeter, i took some voltage and current measurements of my bike.

DC measurements
RR unit output for battery charging at 1200 RPM = 0.4 Amps
RR unit output for battery charging at 4000 RPM = 2.5 Amps
RR unit output for battery charging at 8000 RPM = 2.85 Amps

RR unit output when battery is fully charged = 14.5 Volts
RR unit output when battery is fully discharged = 12.25 Volts

AC Measurements

Lighting Coil Voltage = 13.5 Volts AC (On No-Load Condition at 1200 RPM)
Lighting Coil Voltage = 40 Volts AC (On No-Load Condition at 4000 RPM)

Charging Coil Voltage = 13.5 Volts AC (On No-Load Condition at 1200 RPM)
Charging Coil Voltage = 40 Volts AC (On No-Load Condition at 4000 RPM)

@ pavanchirmade: ur system may be working fine, b'coz you are using avenger 180's coil, which may be giving more output.

@ Rahuldevnath: u say that lighting coil output is to be connected to a rectifier which will charge battery. this way charging current will improve but upto what extent ....is unknown as lighting coil is designed for 35 watt only, so that means its output will be 3.0 Amps approx. which is not sufficient. I need atleast 4.0 Amps. one more thing as i have measured coil voltage increases with RPM so if we connect a home made rectifier to it. we will be applying a very high voltage to battery, which may be dangerous. also if teh output of custom made Rectifier and stock RR is paralleled and fed to battery. it won't work. remember thevinin's theorem in networks, i did some research yaar, i dont think we can use 2 battery chargers to feed one battery unless by some means we can equalize their voltage.

what we can try is replace stock RR with APE RR and measure the current. then connect lighting coil to APE RR and measure the current. which ever is higher can be retained. but there is a problem to connect the lighting coil to APE RR unit (or even to a custom made rectifier) we need the other end of coil, which is grounded in current configuration.

other than this i think only coil rewinding is left.

i need battery to be charged at the same rate as it is discharged.

@sujjt: yesterday i realized that my bike is already on full DC as ....untill i switch ON a separate switch mounted additionally by the mechanic, headlight, pilot lights and digit console orange light does not turn ON. sorry for my ignorance.

@Sujjt,rahuldev, shreni: is it possible to get satisfactory charging rate without coil rewinding.

one more thing, since the current UG4 pulsar is all DC, what if i use UG4's stator coil and RR unit?

Without rewinding, u need to re route the light coil for charging thru a high cap RR like APE or so. A std light coil will be around 60-65W, so its enough for an HID, for a 55/60W halo, rewinding is a must.

No use if u get a UG4 coil and RR, as its running on puny 35W halo so coil will be almost same as urs and the UG4 RR will deliver 3-4A to batt which is not sufficient, we need to have a min of 5A for city rides.

There's no speciality in an Avy coil except the light coil, charging rates are almost same as the Pulsars as the batt requirement for Avy is as same as a Pulsar.


From ur queries, I can understand u got an overall idea of these mods, so before doing it, study the diagram first and they do the mod. Dont depend on the mech fully as they wont do it properly, and they wont tell u that they dont know it either as a matter of survival. Better u take it to an auto electrician for ur peace of mind.

Yup, idea behind the custom RR was/is Rahul
But it didn't work out for me anyways will keep u bugging


If u can get wiring diagram of UG4 then do check it. That will be a OEM setting which should be much reliable.

Bro, I am not very sure of Pulsar's charging rate but I ve done more than 4 hours with HID on stock RR on my Unicorn which is very much fine for me. Sajan - I know I am yet to check the charging amps

I am not using APE RR now as the Delhi made APE RR conked off.

Apart from headlight what else you think is running on AC .
Sorry haven't read all the lengthy posts

What I would suggest is to go with the already tested reliable solution rather than doing trial & error and finally end up somewhere in dark roads without light which will be worse case !!

Shree, give the credit to him man, Rahul's got other copy rights like twin lights. Well u can claim for the projector mods and that too 3 projectors on a single fairing, MG, I just cant think of it man and appreciate ur patience too.

Hey, why u r backing off from the old statement that ur friend is running a 100W on stock uni reflector without any issues. Has he changed it?

[princesirohi]

@sajjt: u know i was desperately waiting for ur reply.....checking these pages every 10 mins....let me read ur reply....then i will reply.

in the meantime can someone reply tell me how to get the other end of light coil ...out of stator...

[rahuldevnath]

Its nice to hear that UG3 requires only one wire cut mod, but this particular setup is for an AC+DC for boosting the charging rate. And one more thing, if its to boost the charging rate, why u r suggesting APE RR in between? Ur old mod was to tap from the lighting out from the stock RR and fed through a bridge rectifier right? I remember u've posted the previous pic that time too and seeing that I gave u a suggestion of using a bridge rectifier module instead of making a BR of 4X6A diodes which can be bolted to the chassis with a good heatsink.

Here we are discussing of converting to full DC,APE RR is a tried and tested solution for full DC conversion, so keeping the stock RR along with that will be a nice idea? And what about the coil grounding inside the magneto casing? With that grounding you will not get the full output of the coil, I've tried and failed and later Abhi only pointed this to me. Once I've done this, the result was very amazing. I dont know about UG3's coil grounded or not, but as an AC+DC system, its should be grounded.

What I was suggesting, that even APE RR Unit, may or may not work. In Pulsar UG3, as I have tested it, it's much simpler to boost the charging with a simple rectifier.

My original mod was to tap the current directly from the coil, before the RR Unit. Pulsar's coil is also grounded. APE is Unit is tried and tested, no doubt in it. But after all the need is to covert all the AC electrical like, headlight, tail light etc to DC, accommodate a HID without draining the battery. In my mod the system still stays AC+DC, but serves the purpose, without much alteration, at the leat possible cost (max 100 bucks), atlaest in Pulsar UG3. Coil grounding can also be removed in this case, but I checked that, the Lead Acid batteries aren't that sensitive to ripples in sine waves to an extent.

LATEST UPDATE:


@ Rahuldevnath: u say that lighting coil output is to be connected to a rectifier which will charge battery. this way charging current will improve but upto what extent ....is unknown as lighting coil is designed for 35 watt only, so that means its output will be 3.0 Amps approx. which is not sufficient. I need atleast 4.0 Amps. one more thing as i have measured coil voltage increases with RPM so if we connect a home made rectifier to it. we will be applying a very high voltage to battery, which may be dangerous. also if teh output of custom made Rectifier and stock RR is paralleled and fed to battery. it won't work. remember thevinin's theorem in networks, i did some research yaar, i dont think we can use 2 battery chargers to feed one battery unless by some means we can equalize their voltage.

When I checked the output directly from the coil, it never exceeded 18Volts. Parallel charging does work, because there are separate coils, generating seperate current for AC and DC systems. Grounding remain common. I have been using the mod on my previous bike for a All India Biking Expedition, comprising of 11,000Kms. On HID it never failed, nor I had any problems as such.
Combine current from H/L and Stock Charging is enough to keep the HID glowing at 4K RPM, which is sufficient for 8 hours of non-stop night riding.



@sujjt: yesterday i realized that my bike is already on full DC as ....untill i switch ON a separate switch mounted additionally by the mechanic, headlight, pilot lights and digit console orange light does not turn ON. sorry for my ignorance.


Your mech has already done 50% of my mod. The switch is required because UG3's BCU will not allow the bike to crank, if it's on DC. In my mod I had installed a relay to work as switch, as well as the rectifier in single unit.

Note: Your mech has already cut that "Yellow wire" somewhere, other end is dangling somewhere.

one more thing, since the current UG4 pulsar is all DC, what if i use UG4's stator coil and RR unit?

Also add the wiring of UG4. Cost will sky rocket!

Answers in Bold.

[pavanchirmade]

Here's my dc conversion using rahuldevnath's ckt and pics of the HID

[lakhanironak]

Hi sajan, shreeni, rahul n abhishek. Sorry for the late update on the status of my HID installation. Got a little busy in between.

I have successfully installed the HID kit on fazer 125. The connection is according to the following diagram.

And all the connections have been done by me this time. No mechanic was involved. The power for the HID which has been connected to the external switch and pin 30 of relay has been taken from ignition directly.

Now im facing the battery charging issues.

I wish to go for the coil rewinding + APE RR setup.

About coil rewinding, Wat particular specification is required, I have gone through the the previous thread as well as this one, there is no info about it.

About the Grounding of the coil, still really confused about this.

Also once I have converted to full DC, Can i remove the external switch and connect the HID to the high/low switch ? Right now only the halogen which connected to the stock AC setup is running through this switch.

[Shreeni0403]

Hey, why u r backing off from the old statement that ur friend is running a 100W on stock uni reflector without any issues. Has he changed it?

It didn't melt yar but now he got hold of P220's HL unit

@lakhanironak - I think Abhi or Sajan are good to read ur circuit. I prefer simpler things

[princesirohi]

ok some more updates about my DC conversion......

as rahuldev was saying and i was objecting.....i got a custom rectifier made and installed. it is actually two rectifiers one connected to charging coil and other to lighting coil. the output is combined, but it didn't work. the charging rate improved only marginally. maximum charging current was 3.25 Amps at 8000RPM.

and as i have measured the AC voltage of coils it did go upto 40 volt with increasing RPM.

today i will try a different configuration of Rectifier and if that also doesn't work. then i have to rewind the coil.

one more thing i measured the current consumption of HID also.

Initially it takes 8-9 Amps for some seconds than reduce and stabilize at around----

4.5 Amps for Low Beam
5.3 Amps for High Beam.

so i need atleast 5.0 Amps charging current.

As i said i will try some more configurations of rectifiers today. if it fails. i think i will go for col rewinding. can some one tell me the exact details of coil rewinding, i know so far that it has to be done by 19 gauge wire. it has to be done in clockwise and anticlockwise direction on the coils alternatively. but can somebody tell me how much turns on each coil. and do i need to wind all 7 coils together or 4 light coils seperately and 3 charging coils seperately.

plz tell me.

and has somebody actually measured the current output after coil rewinding and APE RR unit. I had checked with a parson who can do winding and called up Piaggio service center for APE RR unit, they said sir APE ke do model aate hain 3 wheelers me, konsewale ka RR unit chahiye. so can somebody answer that plz.

also is there anybody in pune who had done this coil rewinding and HID stuff.

[sajjt]

Hi sajan, shreeni, rahul n abhishek. Sorry for the late update on the status of my HID installation. Got a little busy in between.

I have successfully installed the HID kit on fazer 125. The connection is according to the following diagram.

And all the connections have been done by me this time. No mechanic was involved. The power for the HID which has been connected to the external switch and pin 30 of relay has been taken from ignition directly.

Now im facing the battery charging issues.

I wish to go for the coil rewinding + APE RR setup.

About coil rewinding, Wat particular specification is required, I have gone through the the previous thread as well as this one, there is no info about it.

About the Grounding of the coil, still really confused about this.

Also once I have converted to full DC, Can i remove the external switch and connect the HID to the high/low switch ? Right now only the halogen which connected to the stock AC setup is running through this switch.

Grounding wire u can isolate once u open the stator coil cover. Closely observe the light coil, one of the end will be soldered to the coil body to get earthing. Dont use the wiring harness to route it to the new RR, use seperate wire as the harness can have internal grndings.

U can use the existing stock switches for this. Follow the diagram posted in the begning. Once its converted to DC, everything will be on batt so the rewinding is a must for u as u r using a halo+HID combi.


Pulsar coil rewinding is mostly done by 19 guage wire but in ur case, it depends on the stator coil size and space, tell him to complete it with 19G if possible, or something thicker than the stock. Wind the full poles including the batt coils as u dont need that coil to be idle. Do the coil rewinding from an auto electrician to get optimum output. A neat winding will give best results whereas a uneven winding will give the engine extra stress, turns can be calculated from the stock coils, for which the electrician is capable of.

ok some more updates about my DC conversion......

as rahuldev was saying and i was objecting.....i got a custom rectifier made and installed. it is actually two rectifiers one connected to charging coil and other to lighting coil. the output is combined, but it didn't work. the charging rate improved only marginally. maximum charging current was 3.25 Amps at 8000RPM.

and as i have measured the AC voltage of coils it did go upto 40 volt with increasing RPM.

today i will try a different configuration of Rectifier and if that also doesn't work. then i have to rewind the coil.

one more thing i measured the current consumption of HID also.

Initially it takes 8-9 Amps for some seconds than reduce and stabilize at around----

4.5 Amps for Low Beam
5.3 Amps for High Beam.

so i need atleast 5.0 Amps charging current.

As i said i will try some more configurations of rectifiers today. if it fails. i think i will go for col rewinding. can some one tell me the exact details of coil rewinding, i know so far that it has to be done by 19 gauge wire. it has to be done in clockwise and anticlockwise direction on the coils alternatively. but can somebody tell me how much turns on each coil. and do i need to wind all 7 coils together or 4 light coils seperately and 3 charging coils seperately.

plz tell me.

Yes, U need a charging rate of 5A @ avg rpm considering the city traffic.
U mean to say the light coil out was 40? It can go beyond that on higher rpms such as 90+ but the regulator takes care of it. Have u got a RR or just a rectifier unit?

On cold start a 35W HID will eat 8-9A for a few secs and after stabilization it will come down to a steady 3-4A but as I said earlier, it depends on brands. Good quality ballasts wont take more than rated current ie 3-3.5A And if u got a telescopic Bixen HID, how come the current channges once the beam changing? Once its stabilized, the extra current for high beam is only the solenoid power which is negligible. Next chance is the power swapping on each beam change, that could be a reason and it can be bypassed for low consumption and better life for the bulb. Check the current on HB after 1 min, Is it reducing from 5.3A consumption after 1 min?

Coil winding part is explained on prev posting.

It didn't melt yar but now he got hold of P220's HL unit



@lakhanironak - I think Abhi or Sajan are good to read ur circuit. I prefer simpler things

Good to have that lens, else,he would've replaced it by now.

Obliged

[sajjt]

Prince, it would be fine if u could stick to our universal language for easy communication. I was struggling to pick ur word by word to get that, sorry for my poor proficiency on our national lang.

APE RR out is 1:1 upto 20A man, if u can pump in 20A, it will gracefully give it to the other end. My coil is giving 8A @4.5K beyond that I couldnt test as my puny Rs.90 DMM probe was heatingup like an element due to the laod.

U can choose any model, its having diff sockets, for a Pulsar wire cut is required not like Uni, so anything will chalega yar