Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

[gajah_gendut]

hello everyone. this is regulator/rectifier schematic for your bike. you can make your own powerful RR for your bike. i'm sure the components are easy to find in your local electronic shop.
i have posted this schema in some forums (in indonesian lang). but i'll try to translate in english.


Try to click this pic to enlarge it.

this is the translation :
- Menuju kunci kontak (+) = to ignition key 12V (+).
- Monitor tegangan pengisian = voltage charging monitor
- Fungsi regulator = voltage regulation function
- Fungsi rectifier/kiprok = rectifier function
- Aki 12V = 12V battery

Component list :
- SCR1,2,3 = Thyristor SCR 25A, NTE5460 or ECG5460 or teccor S4025L/S6025L (model TO-220)
- Q1 = transistor PNP 65W 10A, TIP42 (model TO-220)
- Z1 = Diode Zener 12V 1watt
- D1-5 = Diode 1N4148
- R1 = resistor 47R 0,25W
- R2 = resistor 22R 0.5W
- R3-8 = resistor 680R 0,5W
- VR1 = potesio trimmer, 100R
- C1 = elec. cap 10uF 35V
- D6-D10 = diode min 15A 200V.

For single phase stator, remove D5, R7, R8, D8, D10. and rectifier can be replaced by a 25/35A diode bridge rectifier.

you can adjust voltage output with the trimmer potensiometer (VR1).

[Shreeni0403]

but the terminals are wrongly placed as the pulsar has its battery on the right side and my bike has it on the left. So I somehow adjusted the battery and connected the terminals.

After connecting the 9ah battery, these are the differences i observed. The HID started without much effort. After Stablizing, I could operate the rest of the DC electricals i.e, horn, indicators without any problem, No fluctuation in HID nor there was a problem with sound of the horn or dimming of indicators.

So I conclude from this that ill have to change to a new battery. Ill go in for the AMARON ProBikeRider Battery which has a 60 month warranty.

Also I was trying to look around for the RR unit and couldnt find one. AFAIK the RR unit is supposed to be placed before the charger.

First of all your bike must be having 5aH stock battery bcz 7aH and 9aH battery terminals are exactly at same place. Anyway not a issue.

Upgrading battery alone is not sufficient, better charging is also needed. If charging is better then there is no need of upgrading battery.

Sorry can't reply for rest part as i am unable to see images what you have posted.
Web sensor

This is basic motorcycle AC lighting.

Orange wire is AC supply for lighting. White for charging battery. Red to battery 12V (+). And black connected to ground/frame/battery (-).

If you want to convert lighting to DC, this what you can do.

You must unsolder stator ground and lighting wire (orange) from stator solder tab. Then orange wire connected to ground wire. solder them together and add heatshrink tube cover exposed solder joint.
Now, white and orange wires become input your new full wave RR.

Very well explained. But how do you do it for a bike like Unicorn/CBF 150 where there is single coil and the AC headlight power is differentiated in RR unit. Meaning, only 2 wires come out from coil buy RR unit splits some part of the coil current into AC for headlight and some into DC for battery charging !!

In simple - there is no orange wire.

[princesirohi]

@ gajah: i will opt for the 1st option. there may be problem with 2nd and 3rd options coz current will be phase shifted, so i dont know how it will behave.

[abhijeet080808]

@gajah_gendut - Excellent Explanation dude. Option 2 (parallel connection) is very good for those who do not want to go for rewinding and need a 35W HID or 60/55W only at max.

@lakhanironak - That looks like an ignition relay.

@princesirohi- From your post, option 2 will just give more voltage, not more current. Option 1 is what you need.

And about number of turns for 100/90W, you need atleast 8-10 turns of 19 gauge wire on a single pole from one end to another, and 6-7 such layers over each pole. This way you need to cover all 7 poles in alternate winding direction for each. basically, you will nedd to use up around 200grams of copper wire. Neat and taut winding is the key. That's all the details you need.

[gajah_gendut]

----------


Very well explained. But how do you do it for a bike like Unicorn/CBF 150 where there is single coil and the AC headlight power is differentiated in RR unit. Meaning, only 2 wires come out from coil buy RR unit splits some part of the coil current into AC for headlight and some into DC for battery charging !!

In simple - there is no orange wire.

i don't know your unicorn wiring, but if only 2 wires (what color?, blue n white?), i think your bike has similar stator with honda wave in indonesia.

maybe i can figure like this


and you can reroute by adding one more wire to new full wave RR.


that what i've done with honda wave (all series)

does your RR similar to my attachment ?
that is RR from honda wave.

[princesirohi]

@ abhijeet: thanks dude, so that makes approximately 70 turns per winding coil.

@ gajah: man change your signature dear, its ok to have poor english, nobody will punish you for that.

[sajjt]

i don't know your unicorn wiring, but if only 2 wires (what color?, blue n white?), i think your bike has similar stator with honda wave in indonesia.

maybe i can figure like this


and you can reroute by adding one more wire to new full wave RR.


that what i've done with honda wave (all series)

does your RR similar to my attachment ?
that is RR from honda wave.

Dude, this is what we are suggesting here, take off the gnding and feed it to a a higher cap full wave RR to feed the batt. On the other mods, without rewinding the coil, the stock coil wont be able to feed a 90/100W halo may be a 55/60W can by combining together with the light+charging coils with extra RR. But how long u've been with this parallel charging setup? And what was the performance of the AC lighting after tapping? Am sure that its more than sufficient for an HID.

Ur custom RR seems to be meaty, Similar designs we've got here from Abhi and from other forums. But its takes time to test it out, once I tried and failed so sticked to another OEM RR which is capable of doing the job, time is money friend Its just a bolt on job rather sourcing components, assembling, securing it with heatsinks. Personally I dont want to do it again. But for those who want to try with very cost effective mod, its a real inspiring one.

Any way many thoughts are pouring in, so is our options too. But let me suggest one thing, Pls post the mods only if u've done it successfully for atleast for one or two months trials. Else, there can be others fall into a big mess which we dont want to happen. Since u r from another country, there can be diff in identifying the wires by colour, but thats not a big issue for a person knows what to do. We are here to share our experiences to help others, where even the sevice people are unaware or they even think that its something like a top national security secret not to be shared among with the owners. I dont want to hurt anyone but to be safe, just my suggestion only for others peace of mind.

[Shreeni0403]

i don't know your unicorn wiring, but if only 2 wires (what color?, blue n white?), i think your bike has similar stator with honda wave in indonesia.

maybe i can figure like this


and you can reroute by adding one more wire to new full wave RR.


that what i've done with honda wave (all series)

does your RR similar to my attachment ?
that is RR from honda wave.

Nope !! My RR is different from your attachment and stator also.. The first post of my thread shows the stator of Unicorn..

[sajjt]

Nope !! My RR is different from your attachment and stator also.. The first post of my thread shows the stator of Unicorn..

Man he's right and telling the same what we were discussing, only thing is he's from another place so corelating with spares are not that easy. He's got some nice ideas to put in

gajah_gendut go ahead man

[princesirohi]

tommorrow i m taking leave so that i get 2 days...saturday & sunday for modifications....bad thing is the winding guy will take atleast two days to carry out the job....anyhow lets see....first i will try try with existing winding (will remove the ground of lighting coil and feed to another RR unit) and two RR units.

[gajah_gendut]

@sajjt

my bike is honda wave s 100 (called new supra fit here). i've modded my bike to all dc (full wave charging from stator) for about 5 years. old stock bulb was H6 30/30W, but i modded using H4 60/55 watt..
stock battery was GS Astra MF 12V/5Ah. never problem with charging at all.
there is regulation in my country to light up headlight all nights and days.
but never drain my battery at all.

this is my home made RR, tested for 3 months. looks terrible like my english, huh
but this thing performed very good. i got 13.3V on idle with my h4 light on.


i dont use it anymore, because i dont find aluminium case for it yet. and also now heavy rainy season in here.

now im using honda tiger (GL200) RR in my bike.

there are 5 pins in this RR. i had to add 1 more wire as battery monitor. pin is in the middle. if not connected to ignition key (+), i got 16-18V on my battery . idle rpm with headlight on i got 12.5V with this RR.

i don't have time yet to find aluminium case for my home made RR. but I still want to use it again.

honda wave 100 stator is different with honda wave 125.

[Shreeni0403]

Man he's right and telling the same what we were discussing, only thing is he's from another place so corelating with spares are not that easy. He's got some nice ideas to put in

gajah_gendut go ahead man

Arre yar, when did I stop him !! I was just curios enough to know if there is any other method for my bike as well other than what I know !!

[lakhanironak]

First of all your bike must be having 5aH stock battery bcz 7aH and 9aH battery terminals are exactly at same place. Anyway not a issue.

Upgrading battery alone is not sufficient, better charging is also needed. If charging is better then there is no need of upgrading battery.

Sorry can't reply for rest part as i am unable to see images what you have posted.
Web sensor
Very well explained. But how do you do it for a bike like Unicorn/CBF 150 where there is single coil and the AC headlight power is differentiated in RR unit. Meaning, only 2 wires come out from coil buy RR unit splits some part of the coil current into AC for headlight and some into DC for battery charging !!

In simple - there is no orange wire.

Thanks for the advice, So i wont be upgrading the battery. The battery is a 5 Ah. But AFAIK the HID needs around 9A in the beginning. Moreover after stabilizing it still needs 3.5 - 4 A, so will this puny 5A battery support the rest of the electricals such as horn, indicators, console lights, brake light after the charging has been improved.

On the pulsar battery (9Ah) which was also around 2 years old, I observed that rest of the electricals were funtioning really well, even though it died out after 10 mins of HID, some honking, and around two self start cranks of the engine. When I have a fully charged battery (5Ah), and I turn on the HID, nothing functions after 10 - 15 mins of the HID staying ON. Also When I press the brakes, which turns on the brake light, the HID just switches off, forget the horn not working at all which is a essential safety device in India .

So what do you suggest, ill wait for the charging issues to be solved and then go in for a new battery. I was also puzzled about the connections if I upgrade to a new battery. how did u go about it Shreeni ?

@lakhanironak - That looks like an ignition relay.

Yeah may be, Ill be getting the service manual for my bike today from the SC. I think that will be more helpful.

[Shreeni0403]

Thanks for the advice, So i wont be upgrading the battery. The battery is a 5 Ah. But AFAIK the HID needs around 9A in the beginning. Moreover after stabilizing it still needs 3.5 - 4 A, so will this puny 5A battery support the rest of the electricals such as horn, indicators, console lights, brake light after the charging has been improved.

On the pulsar battery (9Ah) which was also around 2 years old, I observed that rest of the electricals were funtioning really well, even though it died out after 10 mins of HID, some honking, and around two self start cranks of the engine. When I have a fully charged battery (5Ah), and I turn on the HID, nothing functions after 10 - 15 mins of the HID staying ON. Also When I press the brakes, which turns on the brake light, the HID just switches off, forget the horn not working at all which is a essential safety device in India .

So what do you suggest, ill wait for the charging issues to be solved and then go in for a new battery. I was also puzzled about the connections if I upgrade to a new battery. how did u go about it Shreeni ?

I have upgraded the battery, that is why I said it hardly matters until the charging rate is maintained well. But in your case make sure you don't change beams very often. Regarding electrical mods, if you can post the wiring diagram then it will be very much easy for us to explain you stuff according to your bike.

I changed the RR to APE's but my bad luck APE RR conked off as it was Delhi made. When APE RR was in my bike, my battery was effortlessly running on 55/60w in stop-go traffic also. Never tried HID with APE RR.

Then when I switched to 35W HID Bi-Xenon (stock RR), I have done around 4+ hours of long ride with HID and even after that my battery was absolutely fine to my surprise. But I am sure battery will drain out in stop-go traffic. Have to buy new OEM APE RR, till then giving a break from experiments.

I ve a dual mind, whether to go with APE RR or put 2 headlights. For city ill use halogen and highway's HID. When needed can use both

[sajjt]

Arre yar, when did I stop him !! I was just curios enough to know if there is any other method for my bike as well other than what I know !!

This boys curiosity makes me.....

@sajjt

my bike is honda wave s 100 (called new supra fit here). i've modded my bike to all dc (full wave charging from stator) for about 5 years. old stock bulb was H6 30/30W, but i modded using H4 60/55 watt..
stock battery was GS Astra MF 12V/5Ah. never problem with charging at all.
there is regulation in my country to light up headlight all nights and days.
but never drain my battery at all.

this is my home made RR, tested for 3 months. looks terrible like my english, huh
but this thing performed very good. i got 13.3V on idle with my h4 light on.


i dont use it anymore, because i dont find aluminium case for it yet. and also now heavy rainy season in here.

now im using honda tiger (GL200) RR in my bike.

there are 5 pins in this RR. i had to add 1 more wire as battery monitor. pin is in the middle. if not connected to ignition key (+), i got 16-18V on my battery . idle rpm with headlight on i got 12.5V with this RR.

i don't have time yet to find aluminium case for my home made RR. but I still want to use it again.

honda wave 100 stator is different with honda wave 125.

Its a nice and compact assembly man. All u've to do is put it into a plastic box and fill with epoxy so that it will become water proof just like any other OEM RR. If thats supporting u even on day rides with lights on then ur custom RR is smart to do its job, but one doubt, u've converted DC 5 yrs back and ur RR used only for 3 months, does that makes contradictory? Then which RR u were using in the mean time?

Its seems ur RR is rewounded by u and has only 4 poles for lighting and batt, so puny in looks, but if its supporting a 60W then its nice to hear that.

Thanks for the advice, So i wont be upgrading the battery. The battery is a 5 Ah. But AFAIK the HID needs around 9A in the beginning. Moreover after stabilizing it still needs 3.5 - 4 A, so will this puny 5A battery support the rest of the electricals such as horn, indicators, console lights, brake light after the charging has been improved.

On the pulsar battery (9Ah) which was also around 2 years old, I observed that rest of the electricals were funtioning really well, even though it died out after 10 mins of HID, some honking, and around two self start cranks of the engine. When I have a fully charged battery (5Ah), and I turn on the HID, nothing functions after 10 - 15 mins of the HID staying ON. Also When I press the brakes, which turns on the brake light, the HID just switches off, forget the horn not working at all which is a essential safety device in India .

So what do you suggest, ill wait for the charging issues to be solved and then go in for a new battery. I was also puzzled about the connections if I upgrade to a new battery. how did u go about it Shreeni ?


Yeah may be, Ill be getting the service manual for my bike today from the SC. I think that will be more helpful.

Better u fix the charging issue first, each frying will shorten the life of batt. If possible, stick to a 9AH batt so that all requirements will be met from that.