Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

[Abhijeet Bhattacharjee]

hi doctor,


He heard it from me. here is the scenario.
I have Unicorn, and in stock electrical condition with stock RR, I can start the vehicle without battery by using kickstarter. As you know Unicorn has no separate ignition coil and it draws current from battery or RR for the engine to start. Same is the case with Ambition.
I rewinded the coil and used APE RR to make my Unicorn FULL DC.
Now with the battery connected I am getting voltage of max 14.1V (no problem here). I tried to measure the open circuit voltage of APE RR, so I disconnected the battery and tried to start the bike, but in vain. So I connected the battery again but disconnected the APE RR from the battery(yellow wire) and measured the voltage across the yellow wire. And I got 19volts.In this case bike is drawing current from battery for ignition.
SO the result is
Using APE RR and without battery Unicorn cannot start. may be the same with bikes using current from battery/RR for ignition.
But with Pulsar UG4 RR the bike started without battery by using kickstart. So the bike is drawing current from UG4's RR for ignition which is by the way 13.2 volts. As I've already said with stock RR also the bike started without battery.
I cannot draw conclusions, but I can say the APE RR is just a heavy duty and efficient charger and provides no useful current to start the bike for bikes like Unicorn's ignition.

now now genius, you disconnected the battery & your APE RR is directly connected to battery (read, ignition getting no juice from RR either). How on earth do you expect your bike to start on its own?

I don't wanna buy a fight but atleast have a solid base before giving incomplete/wrong info.

[sandeepcf]

now now genius, you disconnected the battery & your APE RR is directly connected to battery (read, ignition getting no juice from RR either). How on earth do you expect your bike to start on its own?

I don't wanna buy a fight but atleast have a solid base before giving incomplete/wrong info.

Sorry my english is a little bit weak and I cannot easily understand sms lingos, shortcuts for words or incomplete sentences without grammar

(OR)

As my english is weak you didn't understand what I had written.

So do me a favor and please elaborate you disconnected the battery & your APE RR is directly connected to battery (read, ignition getting no juice from RR either)and then I can explain it to you and we'll see if my info lacks a solid base or your left side of cerebrum lacks proper functioning.

[rajaselvam_1987]

Can i use this stock coil without rewinding only by just un-ground the coil and connect it directly to green wire and finish with Ape or UG4RR as said in the first page of forum.
Already white wire is directly connected to coil.
If i do like this how much amps i can get

[shoeb2015]

Can i use this stock coil without rewinding only by just un-ground the coil and connect it directly to green wire and finish with Ape or UG4RR as said in the first page of forum.
Already white wire is directly connected to coil.
If i do like this how much amps i can get

You can use stock coil just by un-grounding and figuring out the pulse generator's grounding as mentioned in the first page of this thread.
NO need to rewind , if you are not using higher wattage bulbs

[Abhijeet Bhattacharjee]

So do me a favor and please elaborate

Well, okay.
Firstly lets assume you've removed your stock RR (so the option of your RR's assistance in kick-starting gets eliminated).
Also assuming you have made the charging circuit with APE RR (or UG4 as the case maybe) with new wires which are directly connected to battery & you said that the battery was disconnected (suggests that the battery in no way could have started the bike). Agreed?
Now, since the battery charging circuit (APE RR/UG4 RR with new wires) has no connections as such to compensate for the role of the old RR to assist in starting the bike without battery.
Having said that I could conclude, your bike doesn't get any assistance to get started from either the battery (in this case disconnected) or the APE RR/UG4 RR (which eliminates the option of your bike starting off of your RR).
Hope you get my point.

your left side of cerebrum lacks proper functioning.

Yes, Sandeepcf Sir, not just the left cerebrum but my entire brain lacks proper functioning, happens with some unfortunate souls. Thanks for understanding my problem.

Can i use this stock coil without rewinding only by just un-ground the coil and connect it directly to green wire and finish with Ape or UG4RR as said in the first page of forum.
Already white wire is directly connected to coil.
If i do like this how much amps i can get

Yes, that's the correct procedure, you're in the right track.
If you don't upgrade to a higher wattage bulb or do not add any higher loads as such, it should be working fine.
Assuming that your stock charging rate is 1A (max.), you'll be getting around 4.5A (max.) with APE RR/UG4 RR. Decent enough

[sandeepcf]

Also assuming you have made the charging circuit with APE RR (or UG4 as the case maybe) with new wires which are directly connected to battery & you said that the battery was disconnected (suggests that the battery in no way could have started the bike).

Ohhhmaaaannnnnnn...where did you get the assumption that APE RR is directly connected to the battery? Did you assume I extended a wire from APE RR and connected it to the positive terminal of the battery? who on earth would do that bypassing the main fuse while leaving the original wires meant to be connected to the RR(Leaving the starting point and connect to the middle of the circuit?)? I really don't know how to respond man...
If you swap your RR with new one what would you do? connect to the existing wires or draw a new wire from battery to connect it?

Yes, Sandeepcf Sir, not just the left cerebrum but my entire brain lacks proper functioning, happens with some unfortunate souls. Thanks for understanding my problem.

This is the reason I asked about your left side which is responsible for logical thinking. you are assuming that the RR and battery is a single detachable unit.

[Abhijeet Bhattacharjee]

who on earth would do that bypassing the main fuse while leaving the original wires meant to be connected to the RR

I have done that, many other's have done that. I've put a fuse in-between. Stock charging wire isn't suitable for higher current.
You're still not getting my point, I mean to say it was the stock RR which was responsible for providing the juice while battery was disconnected, once you remove the stock RR, the feature is lost with the replaced RR.

you are assuming that the RR and battery is a single detachable unit.

Do you seriously think I'm gonna be as stupid as that?
Anyway, I'm out of this, since my left cerebrum doesn't function...

[rajaselvam_1987]

You can use stock coil just by un-grounding and figuring out the pulse generator's grounding as mentioned in the first page of this thread.
NO need to rewind , if you are not using higher wattage bulbs

Yes, that's the correct procedure, you're in the right track.
If you don't upgrade to a higher wattage bulb or do not add any higher loads as such, it should be working fine.
Assuming that your stock charging rate is 1A (max.), you'll be getting around 4.5A (max.) with APE RR/UG4 RR. Decent enough

You all already know that i'm using Root Horn & Some times i use HID inside city, is the new connection withstand the Load

[sandeepcf]

You're still not getting my point, I mean to say it was the stock RR which was responsible for providing the juice while battery was disconnected, once you remove the stock RR, the feature is lost with the replaced RR.

Rephrasing......
it was the stock Unicorn RR which was responsible for providing the juice while battery was disconnected, once you remove the stock Unicorn RR, the feature is lost with the replaced APE RR.
The feature is restored with the replaced Pulsar RR. This is what I am trying to say.

OK let go of the cerebrum thing...you know why those words came...

[shoeb2015]

Rephrasing......
it was the stock Unicorn RR which was responsible for providing the juice while battery was disconnected, once you remove the stock Unicorn RR, the feature is lost with the replaced APE RR.
The feature is restored with the replaced Pulsar RR. This is what I am trying to say.
OK let go of the cerebrum thing...you know you those words came...

So, in short you mean to say that Ape RR doesn't provide current for ignition without battery but UG4 RR provides current for ignition even without battery ?

[sandeepcf]

So, in short you mean to say that Ape RR doesn't provide current for ignition without battery but UG4 RR provides current for ignition even without battery ?

No no..the APE RR produces current even without battery, but that current is not useful to start the bike and also it measured 19V.

[rajaselvam_1987]

Guys today i've upgraded my battery to 7A myself.

[shoeb2015]

Guys today i've upgraded my battery to 7A myself.

Good,now make it full DC.
Did you make any changes to battery cage/holder ? If yes, pls share some snaps of it.

[rajaselvam_1987]

Good,now make it full DC.
Did you make any changes to battery cage/holder ? If yes, pls share some snaps of it.

My battery case is full of plastic so i've just removed one side of the case to expand the length.

[joshdsy]

I just changed the battery case in my cbz classic today.. I manged to fit the battery case of the karizma in it quite an easy fit there was some welding involved but its quite a sturdy fit. a ups 7ah battery is a perfect fit with lots of free room above it. As of now i have just left the 2.5 ah battery in an plan to upgrade to a 7ah when time permits. I plan on fitting a pulsar ug 4 rr and making the bike full dc with no rewinding.