Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

[Abhijeet Bhattacharjee]

ape rr output wire is connected to white wire - which goes to battery through fuse. this white wire was earlier the DC wire used to charge the battery.

are you sure about this part. (I'm holding back my comment cuz I'm not sure if whatever I'm thinking is correct)

[shoeb2015]

When I tried with open ckt, it gave weired readings like 5-6v max, I've even tried to short the terminal to the body to test the current strength, but its too weak to give a good spark.

Sir ,
I have found that not only ape RR but all oem RR's give weird reading like 5-6v max open circuit.
A battery is required is required to trigger the RR .

[sajjt]

ok, so coil seems alright even to me.

DC conversion is simple.
ape rr output wire is connected to white wire - which goes to battery through fuse. this white wire was earlier the DC wire used to charge the battery.

are you sure about this part. (I'm holding back my comment cuz I'm not sure if whatever I'm thinking is correct)

Exactly.

The white wire is stock battery charging/discharge wire, but being with troubles, why can't we route the RR out wire with a thicker wire to the battery than the stock puny wire which will hardly handle less than 3-4A? Its better to leave the stock wires from the RR side as we are not sure about internal tappings. I've given the RR out wire to the starter motor relay hot wire with a fuse.

now in UG3 only headlight and pilot lamps used to run on AC. for this the BCU used to input AC through a yellow wire from old rr unit. this yellow wire is now connected to brown wire (from ignition switch) through an external switch. so instead of AC we are feeding DC to BCU headlight part. the additional switch is used to disconnect at starting so that starter can work

the thing is bike runs fine with all electrical equipments running fine, when ape rr is disconnected and everything runs on pure battery alone. when i connected ape rr output to white wire then ape rr failed.

Is this the way to handle the BCU? Am not sure, I'ven't tackled with a BCU before, the BCU will sense any live wire before it give power to the cranking motor AFAIK, right? I feel for that a separate switch will be enough and most of other fellow members are doing the same.

BCU needs AC to powerup and for that u guys feeding DC at full throttle? Doesn't smells anything? Ping Drji and get a confirmation on this.

I strongly feel that there should be something wrong in the wiring else, how could the BCU went for a toss only for u where others are enjoying the DC without any hassles? It might take time to find out what happened. Its better to follow someone who's done the DC conv on a UG3 like Drji or Pavan or so as my resources are limited in this.

Sir ,
I have found that not only ape RR but all oem RR's give weird reading like 5-6v max open circuit.
A battery is required is required to trigger the RR .

I've tried this trick with APE RR only, when I tested with UG4, it was working fine with battery. I guess this applicable to full wave rectifiers only, stock half waves will work fine without a battery atleast in Pulsar.

[Above_All]

@ sajjt bro what turn off the headlight in UG4 Pulsars if engine is not running to avoid battery draining . Is there any special circuitary ?

[sajjt]

@ sajjt bro what turn off the headlight in UG4 Pulsars if engine is not running to avoid battery draining . Is there any special circuitary ?

There's a control unit called BCU (Body control unit) which controls all electricals in Pulsar/Discover UG3 onwards. It will sense the electrical generation from the alternator coils and decide whether a particular function has to be triggered or not. From a layman's point of view its a smart black box which controls all electricals in a very smarter way and have very unique features like smart battery utilization, auto beam swap in case of any of the filament blows off to avoid any mishaps etc. but from moders viewing angle, its just a head ache box

[Above_All]

There's a control unit called BCU (Body control unit) which controls all electricals in Pulsar/Discover UG3 onwards. It will sense the electrical generation from the alternator coils and decide whether a particular function has to be triggered or not. From a layman's point of view its a smart black box which controls all electricals in a very smarter way and have very unique features like smart battery utilization, auto beam swap in case of any of the filament blows off to avoid any mishaps etc. but from moders viewing angle, its just a head ache box

It is really good for not draining battery completely as if accidently headlight is on while engine off & you are not aware of it , but if you need a light but have no fuel so can't start bike at that time it would be headache .
Auto Beam swap is that automatically shifts from low beam to high beam if low beam blows off even if switch is in low beam mode & vice versa. If it is like that then i must say it is a smart electrical job .

[princesirohi]

@ abijeet bhatacharjee : bro as far as i know, this is the only way to bypass BCU, if you have any doubts, plz raise them. you might help me.

@ sajjt : bro, i have tried to PM drvmtm also, but he didn't replied, may be he is busy.
yes, we can route APE RR ouput directly to BCU using thick wire, but using white wire is also the same, isn't it? i will try to use a seperate wire.

meanwhile, my mother is suddenly hospitalized. so i am here in delhi, will get back to pune by monday. till then plz pour in ur suggestions and if possible try to rope in drvmtm also. i will stay connected though mobile coz no laptop here.

[Abhijeet Bhattacharjee]

I feed the RR output directly to the battery via 7A fuse using thick wires, the battery gets discharged through the stock wiring harness wires, at this point I must mention that I have a Discover 135, though the electricals are almost same as Pulsar UG3 (without BCU in my bike). IMO the stock charging wires are not rated for more than 3~4A, it might handle more current but it may lead to problems, maybe thats why you're having all sorts of troubles.

Hope your mum is ok, & nothing very serious as such... We hope she gets well soon!!

[drvmtm]

wooo so much trouble in so less time.

sorry for being late.
CHECK THE WIRING,its a very big issues according to me and most probably due to wiring

if i was youat this time i would have thrown away the bcu and the switches,useless headache creators.

simple thin in simple way....
coil winded in proper way no grounding no bull sh*t straight two wires come out from them,check them for continual with dmm,wires will be in loop but the wires and body of the stator will be no continuity.

feed them to ape rrs two grey wires,secure the ape rr ground it properly.

feed the yellow and black of ape rr to battery WHICH IS FULLY CHARGED.IF YOU ARE USING A APE RR TO CHARGE A BATTERY WHICH IS DEEPLY DISCHARGED IT WILL GO THROUGH TREMENDOUS STRAIN AND DIE,THATS WHAT HAPPENED.

YOUR BIKE HAS ONE YELLOW WIRE WITH RED STRIPES OR YELLOW WIRE WITH WHITE STRIPES,I DONT REMEMBER CORRECTLY BUT EITHER ONE OF THIS,HAS TO BE CONNECTED to the battery with a toggle switch to the batt positive terminal.

so if you want to switch on the bike ,switch on the ign switch,SWITCH OFF THE TOGGLE SWITCH,hit the starter,bike starts,switch on the toggle switch,be happy. done.

[Above_All]

YOUR BIKE HAS ONE YELLOW WIRE WITH RED STRIPES OR YELLOW WIRE WITH WHITE STRIPES,I DONT REMEMBER CORRECTLY BUT EITHER ONE OF THIS,HAS TO BE CONNECTED to the battery with a toggle switch to the batt positive terminal.

so if you want to switch on the bike ,switch on the ign switch,SWITCH OFF THE TOGGLE SWITCH,hit the starter,bike starts,switch on the toggle switch,be happy. done.

Why toggle switch is needed ? & why to turn it off before starting bike & then turn it on ?

[Abhijeet Bhattacharjee]

YOUR BIKE HAS ONE YELLOW WIRE WITH RED STRIPES OR YELLOW WIRE WITH WHITE STRIPES,I DONT REMEMBER CORRECTLY BUT EITHER ONE OF THIS,HAS TO BE CONNECTED to the battery with a toggle switch to the batt positive terminal.

Why toggle switch is needed ? & why to turn it off before starting bike & then turn it on ?

BCU won't allow the bike to be started if it senses current in the yellow with red stripe wire

EDIT: its the yellow wire which goes to the headlight from the RR not the yellow/red wire (which infact comes from stator to RR)
BCU won't allow the bike to be started if it senses current in the yellow wire

[Above_All]

BCU won't allow the bike to be started if it senses current in the yellow with red stripe wire

Oh then as Sajit said BCU is headache

[princesirohi]

wooo so much trouble in so less time.

sorry for being late.
CHECK THE WIRING,its a very big issues according to me and most probably due to wiring

i have replaced the entire wiring harness. job done by my trusted and very good mechanic, in front of me, DC conversion part done by me and ape rr part also done by me. infact all electricals run perfectly fine on battery for days, as i have tested, without using headlight, a fully charged battery last 5-6 days before the voltage drops below 12v.

if i was youat this time i would have thrown away the bcu and the switches,useless headache creators.

my mechanic gave me this option, but i didn't prefer.

simple thin in simple way....
coil winded in proper way no grounding no bull sh*t straight two wires come out from them,check them for continual with dmm,wires will be in loop but the wires and body of the stator will be no continuity.

feed them to ape rrs two grey wires,secure the ape rr ground it properly.

feed the yellow and black of ape rr to battery

have done exactly same thing, only the power to toggle switch is routed through ignition switch, so that no power goes to BCU in case toggle switch is left ON accidently, when bike is not running.

WHICH IS FULLY CHARGED.IF YOU ARE USING A APE RR TO CHARGE A BATTERY WHICH IS DEEPLY DISCHARGED IT WILL GO THROUGH TREMENDOUS STRAIN AND DIE,THATS WHAT HAPPENED.thats what even i though, but its not so.

YOUR BIKE HAS ONE YELLOW WIRE WITH RED STRIPES OR YELLOW WIRE WITH WHITE STRIPES,I DONT REMEMBER CORRECTLY BUT EITHER ONE OF THIS,HAS TO BE CONNECTED to the battery with a toggle switch to the batt positive terminal.

so if you want to switch on the bike ,switch on the ign switch,SWITCH OFF THE TOGGLE SWITCH,hit the starter,bike starts,switch on the toggle switch,be happy. done.

now again i replaced the APE RR, and it is also not charging the battery absolutely 0 Amps.

see, all electricals run fine on battery, only thing is battery is not getting charged.

i have checked the stator coil continuity and non-continuity with ground at the point it is connected to ape rr.

ape rr grey wires connected as usual to stator coil. black is grounded, and yellow goes to battery.

now what is the problem that all the ape rr's i replaced failed in some way or other.is it the way i am mounting ape rr, which i have changed this time.

earlier my ape rr sits freely under the seat, then came to know from pavanchirmade that rr heat is not getting dissipated properly so my rr fails every few months.

so now - i took the stock pulsar rr , broke it to pieces, took out aluminium heat sink cum mount of stock rr. fixed this to stock rr mount under the seat, drilled two holes in this aluminium L-shaped metal strip and mounted ape rr on itusing one more metal strip. i though this way heat will be dissipated to chasis, just like stock rr. one more thing, in stock wiring harness there is a ground connection near stock rr which used to get connected with stock rr mounting screw, i have retained it as it is and connected the ape rr black ground wire also to same point. so stock wiring harness & ape rr black wire and ape rr body all are getting ground at same point, is there anything wrong in this.?

shall i open the stator plate and do a visual inspection?

what is the reason this time 3 ape rr's failed instantly the moment i started my bike.? plz help guys.

[sajjt]

now again i replaced the APE RR, and it is also not charging the battery absolutely 0 Amps.

see, all electricals run fine on battery, only thing is battery is not getting charged.

i have checked the stator coil continuity and non-continuity with ground at the point it is connected to ape rr.

ape rr grey wires connected as usual to stator coil. black is grounded, and yellow goes to battery.

now what is the problem that all the ape rr's i replaced failed in some way or other.is it the way i am mounting ape rr, which i have changed this time.

earlier my ape rr sits freely under the seat, then came to know from pavanchirmade that rr heat is not getting dissipated properly so my rr fails every few months.

so now - i took the stock pulsar rr , broke it to pieces, took out aluminium heat sink cum mount of stock rr. fixed this to stock rr mount under the seat, drilled two holes in this aluminium L-shaped metal strip and mounted ape rr on itusing one more metal strip. i though this way heat will be dissipated to chasis, just like stock rr. one more thing, in stock wiring harness there is a ground connection near stock rr which used to get connected with stock rr mounting screw, i have retained it as it is and connected the ape rr black ground wire also to same point. so stock wiring harness & ape rr black wire and ape rr body all are getting ground at same point, is there anything wrong in this.?

shall i open the stator plate and do a visual inspection?

what is the reason this time 3 ape rr's failed instantly the moment i started my bike.? plz help guys.

Sorry to hear that again u lost the RR. There's nothing hi funda thing in this bike so I am sure that there should be some serious wiring issue in the circuit else, it won't go like in series.

I don't know what to say, all the things to be taken into are already discussed. Still, lets go by step by step once again. Don't skip any of these steps thinking that its right on ur bike. Ok.

First things first, check the battery condition in a battery service center, they'll check the battery for any internal shorting if any. If they say its ok, lets start.

Dismantle all the add ons before we start the troubleshooting. We need a blank slate to start with. So disconnect the battery +ve terminal, remove the stock RR if any. Now the battery is isolated and free to go.

1. We'll start from the coil, u said its generating power, still for the sake of peace of mind, open it and check for any irregularities after taking out the coil. Also check the continuity of the coils with body.

2. Now kick start the bike and take readings from the coil, it should be not less than 30V @1K and not less than 90V above 3K.

3. Set the idle speed to 3K and switch off

4. Bolt the RR to any secured place where enough air passage and grounding to the chassis available. In my case I've bolted to the stock RR slot with the same bolt. From UG3 onwards the location changed so find a suitable location under the seat itself. Connect the black wire from the RR to the bolt.

5. Take out coil ends with a new pair of thick wires without using the harness free wires. Connect it to the RR and insulate it properly. Connect the yellow wire from RR to the battery +ve post. Do not connect any other load to the battery.

6. Start the bike, check the RR for any over heating at the rpm, it should be fine with this rpm normally. Now check the voltage at battery terminals, it should be 13-14.5V range. If that part is ok, proceed with charging rate measurement. If the battery is fully charged, u wont get much readings, so connect a 55W HL bulb with fresh wires (do not use the harness loom for testing) to the battery posts and measure again. Now it should show the actual pumping rates with the load.

If its showing healthy charging rates, DC part is ok and now you've check the other tappings and loops etc,one by one.

Lets have the updates

Hope this helps.

[princesirohi]

ok, will check as per your step by step procedure - only few things i wanna stress-

• battery is already tested by battery shop and charged by them perfectly, it hold charge perfectly for 4-5 days without using headlights, and with using starter. battery shop checked and recharged the battery and said it is ok. even i checked with multimeter. connected my multimeter to battery, it shows like12.2 v then i start the bike using starter, momentarily the battery voltage drops to 10.XX volts and then regains 12.15 or so and in about a minute or so is back to 12.2 volts. i think that is how it should behave.
• rest of the electricals works fine on battery, no short ckts no burning, no quick discharge of battery.
• is there something wqrong in my mounting arrangement of ape rr.
• only thing that differs is stator coil shows 15 v @ 1200 RPM and 90 v @ 6000 RPM.