Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

[sinnerz2000]

I want to convert my uni to DC but is it possible to make a switch which when switched on turns on DC and when off It should switch back to AC

[rprathin]

for re-winding use 19 gauge wire minimum 12 feet per pole for best outputs even at lower RPM's. And do use a full wave rectifier like Ape rr..

as you said that rewind it with 9 gauge wire with 12 feet per pole but dude i am not able to wind it more than 8 feet the space is not there only.......

[princesirohi]

in pulsar 150 UG3- AC to DC conversion, what should be done to bypass the BCU. urgent help needed. what is to be done apart from rewinding and APE RR.

[pavanchirmade]

@princesirohi:
1. Locate the stator connector (either under the seat near the air filter snorkel or besides the battery)
2. In that connector, locate the yellow-red wire. From the harness side. Not the stator side.
3. Cut this wire and connect it directly to the battery via a switch.
4. Locate the stock RR. Disconnect the stock RR and use as a paper-weight.
5. At the stock RR 6-pin connector you will find the yellow-red wire again. Also locate a completely yellow wire. Connect these two together.

Note: Make sure all the wires that are joined together are properly taped. Any of these wires touching the chassis will have very bad effects and the bike will hate you for that.

Enjoy your DC setup.

[princesirohi]

Correct method of pulsar 150/180 UG3 DC conversion

background: as many of you are aware, my bike was running a 35w HID with DC conversion, coil rewinding and APE RR unit.

2 weeks back something bad happened and blew !! BCU, RH & LH switch, speedometer and APE RR unit.

now the problem was - i had done coil rewinding and APE RR stuff myself, but the HID installation and DC conversion was done by a mechanic in nanapeth, now this nanapeth mechanic was sceptical of my using APE RR and always use to say that it is bad and should not be done, however i was pretty convinced of the setup based on experiences of some experienced DIY guys here and based on my own knowledge.

so when suddenly this problem happened, i went to him and he checked and said that all the above mentioned things went kaput, then i went to my regular mechanic and he checked and confirmed and all these things were replaced by that HID mechanic, the system ran perfectly for a day then blew !! again. the HID mechanic said LH switch is faulty, then i went to my mechanic, he replaced switch, but nothing happened, then replaced BCU again nothing happened, then he checked the wiring thoroughly for an hour or so and came up with a wire that was cut in two somehow, joined it and everything was fine, rode it for a day happily thanking him and agian blew -- this time i first went to my regular mechanic, he checked and said BCU burnt again, again went to HID mechanic he also confirmed. i came back, depressed. both me and my regular mechanic were so depressed, he said throw away the HID and revert to original, but that was also not an option since stator is changed now. we sat and discussed till around 11 PM and decided that this time we will change BCU and APE RR and entire wiring harness, because things are getting short every now and then so its better to replace wiring also. he also offered that i pay him next month and only if it works fine, otherwise not, for which i really appreciate his own dedication to see the bike running perfectly.now the next question was since DC conversion was not done by us, so how to tackle that. on saturday fortunately i saw pavanchirmade online on fb, discussed these things in detail with him, tried to understand how it is done. a friendly chat with him boosted my morale. and on sunday, me and my mechanic replaced the wiring and BCU and now it is running perfectly again, though we couldn't get RR on sunday so now my bike is running purely on battery. i am not using HID till sunday.

now what i want to discuss is that, although in this thread you can find everything about coil rewinding and APE RR along with HID installation, the DC conversion for UG3 via BCU bypass is still not explained clearly.

pavan, the method you have suggested me has some flaws, maybe due to the fact that you have done your DC conversion long ago and have forgot a few things by now or may be your method is different but it has some shortcomings--

• in your method the battery power reaches the yellow wire through red/yellow wire of wiring harness. now the yellow wire is AC input wire of BCU, so even when ignition is off, your BCU recieves DC power continuasly through yellow wire. this is dangerous.
• if there is a continuos supply of DC voltage at yellow wire, BCU is not bypassed and starter will not work.

the correct method: we need need to give power to the yellow wire through ignition switch, so that when ignition is off, no power is going into BCU, for this connect the brown wire of ignition switch to yellow wire of BCU through a switch or relay, when this switch is off - no DC voltage is applied to BCU and starter functions properly, to switch on the headlight, switch should be toggled to ON position.

guys give your feedback.

[pavanchirmade]

Hey good idea man! So you routed the plain yellow wire via the ignition switch to the battery? So it doesn't require an extra switch for the starter thing right?

I had done the yellow-red wire thing as the same was mentioned in rahuldevnath's thread. This also works perfectly. Just that there is a need for another switch which was a hassle before...but not anymore.


Note: The BCU has been designed in a way that whenever it senses any 12v signal at the yellow-red wire, it disables the starter. This is done to protect the starter assembly. By the BCU maker's logic, since the bike ran on AC originally and the BCU is designed for the AC setup of the UG3, the only circumstance in which the yellow-red wire in a bone-stock UG3 wiring will receive 12v is when the engine is running. And it uses this signal to disable the starter once the engine fires up to prevent accidental starter engagement. Accidental starter engagement at high engine RPMS literally breaks some parts of the starter assembly (seen it on a friend's avenger).

[princesirohi]

has anyone ever measured the output of APE RR voltage and current, i mean without connecting to battery, open ckt. voltage at output of APE RR?

[gmagesh14]

has anyone ever measured the output of APE RR voltage and current, i mean without connecting to battery, open ckt. voltage at output of APE RR?

Is it possible to measure CURRENT in a open circuit?

[princesirohi]

Is it possible to measure CURRENT in a open circuit?

i meant-

• current &
• open ckt voltage

[sajjt]

Without battery APE RR will give weird volt readings with low current. It will work only with a battery, as it doesn't've a battery monitor. The new models may work without battery as its got a separate battery monitor probe, just my logic though.

[sandeepcf]

Without battery APE RR will give weird volt readings with low current. It will work only with a battery, as it doesn't've a battery monitor. The new models may work without battery as its got a separate battery monitor probe, just my logic though.

Without battery my unicorn won't even start with APE RR(new model with 6 wire). Don't know why...

[sajjt]

Without battery my unicorn won't even start with APE RR(new model with 6 wire). Don't know why...

How did u wired it? Lets have the pin outs for the extra 2 wires?

[princesirohi]

guys need urgent help, today i connected a new ape rr to my bike (P150 UG3). before connecting the new ape rr, my battery was discharged and was showing 10.5 volts. on connecting ape rr and starting the engine it started to show 9.3 volts. even after riding for 1.5 hours it still is 9.3 volts.? help me.

[sajjt]

guys need urgent help, today i connected a new ape rr to my bike (P150 UG3). before connecting the new ape rr, my battery was discharged and was showing 10.5 volts. on connecting ape rr and starting the engine it started to show 9.3 volts. even after riding for 1.5 hours it still is 9.3 volts.? help me.

Have u isolated the grounding from the coil? R u using the harness to route the wires to APE RR?

[princesirohi]

guys need urgent help, today i connected a new ape rr to my bike (P150 UG3). before connecting the new ape rr, my battery was discharged and was showing 10.5 volts. on connecting ape rr and starting the engine it started to show 9.3 volts. even after riding for 1.5 hours it still is 9.3 volts.? help me.

Have u isolated the grounding from the coil? R u using the harness to route the wires to APE RR?

yes, i have done full DC conversion and coil rewinding long time back, yes i am using the harness to route the wires to ape rr. i am using blue/white wires to route the coil output to ape rr and i have checked for continuity using multimeter, it is ok. i have also checked the continuity of wires with ground, it is not short to ground. the AC output of coil is 15 to 90 V. before connecting ape rr,, the battery voltage was 10.5 after connecting the ape rr and starting the bike instantly the battery voltage was clamped down to 9.3, after switching off the bike battery voltage returned to 10.5. then i rode for 1.5 hours and battery voltage is now permanently 9.3 volts.