Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

[joshdsy]

If any one is interested i paid rs 350 for the battery cage and rs 120 to have it fitted.

[joshdsy]

@rajaselvam_1987 How much did u pay for your battery and which brand did you use ?

[drvmtm]

long story cut short---

if you have a hero honda honda /product which came as ac/dc just float the ground+add wire to the floted ground+add ug4 rr +remove the old rr+ your dc conversion is done .out put is good with all stock electrical s. if you want to add more electrical rewind and get ape rr.

ape rr is a high capacity charger and much much better then ug 4 charger in charging amps per say. i have seen the unit pumping 20+ amps in a minidoor, its pumping 12 amps in my bike only,not only that its having a smart control of amps when the load is not there and battery is full it will produce only one amp or less( fyi 220/karizma/r 15 even dont have that level of charge protection! they pump 1-2 amps in floating mode).

AND FOR GOD SAKE PLEASE DONT ADD A FUSE TO FROM THE RR TO BATTERY OR USE THE ORIGINAL WIRES OR I=USE 2 RRS TOGETHER.

CUT WIRES NICELY ,ADD HIGH GAUDGE WIRES FROM COIL TO RR,FROM RR TO BATT POSITIVE AND NEGETIVE TERMINAL. ]
if you are still thinking about warrenty or cut wires in original wiring simple thing is DONT DO THE MOD! it may sound harsh but its the truth, seen so many silly thing like" my batt not charging after dc conv,it s getting down,this com batt is shit that is good, i will keep two rrs so if one fails other will work,or i will get more charge etc etc. simple advise is if you dont understand it dont do it.all of the problems are because of improper circuit. cut wires and finish them professionally with heatshrink tube/or good wiring tape or silicon adhesive etc.

when you are changing a bike to dc from ac you are doing it for the benefits of stable voltage and better load bearing capacity with upgraded rr and coil. decide what you need and deploy as per.
a dc is having battery as a part of circuit ,so there is a high chance that after removing a batt the bike will not work if its a hh bike/tvs or newer bajaj bike after dc conversion. why? well it isnt suppose to ,thats the way the high capacity dc charging circuit works. you need a batt,dosent matter if its 2.5 amp or 2500 amp,YOU NEED A BATERY IN THE CIRCUIT.
and trust me i used a puny old 2.5 amp batt in my bike which is having dc by ape rr and rewinded coil,was pulling hid with ease(well one of course,dont be greedy).
so think before you want to do the mod.

[Raneet]

long story cut short---

if you have a hero honda honda /product which came as ac/dc just float the ground+add wire to the floted ground+add ug4 rr +remove the old rr+ your dc conversion is done .out put is good with all stock electrical s. if you want to add more electrical rewind and get ape rr.

ape rr is a high capacity charger and much much better then ug 4 charger in charging amps per say. i have seen the unit pumping 20+ amps in a minidoor, its pumping 12 amps in my bike only,not only that its having a smart control of amps when the load is not there and battery is full it will produce only one amp or less( fyi 220/karizma/r 15 even dont have that level of charge protection! they pump 1-2 amps in floating mode).

AND FOR GOD SAKE PLEASE DONT ADD A FUSE TO FROM THE RR TO BATTERY OR USE THE ORIGINAL WIRES OR I=USE 2 RRS TOGETHER.

CUT WIRES NICELY ,ADD HIGH GAUDGE WIRES FROM COIL TO RR,FROM RR TO BATT POSITIVE AND NEGETIVE TERMINAL. ]
if you are still thinking about warrenty or cut wires in original wiring simple thing is DONT DO THE MOD! it may sound harsh but its the truth, seen so many silly thing like" my batt not charging after dc conv,it s getting down,this com batt is shit that is good, i will keep two rrs so if one fails other will work,or i will get more charge etc etc. simple advise is if you dont understand it dont do it.all of the problems are because of improper circuit. cut wires and finish them professionally with heatshrink tube/or good wiring tape or silicon adhesive etc.

when you are changing a bike to dc from ac you are doing it for the benefits of stable voltage and better load bearing capacity with upgraded rr and coil. decide what you need and deploy as per.
a dc is having battery as a part of circuit ,so there is a high chance that after removing a batt the bike will not work if its a hh bike/tvs or newer bajaj bike after dc conversion. why? well it isnt suppose to ,thats the way the high capacity dc charging circuit works. you need a batt,dosent matter if its 2.5 amp or 2500 amp,YOU NEED A BATERY IN THE CIRCUIT.
and trust me i used a puny old 2.5 amp batt in my bike which is having dc by ape rr and rewinded coil,was pulling hid with ease(well one of course,dont be greedy).
so think before you want to do the mod.

wow! shows a lot of frustration doc. guess after going through the wonderful (debate-ish)posts by the newbies, you got real tired and frustrated so burst out. :P

but then @All, if you guys can ignore the frustration part and take away the informative parts from the post, trust me you will be extremely benefitted. He is a man who KNOWS MACHINES in terms of their working principles and the electricals. Trust me, I own a Pulsar 220 and many a times have I though of upgrading my electricals after speaking to this man here.

My advice is to extract the knowledge from the previous post. Don't know much about the DC conversion so won't comment about it but definitely would say, if required, speak to this man. I'm sure your ride will run a full DC with impressive charging without any problem.

And just for information @all, bikes with kickers have different mechanism for starting all together. Please do not confuse with a dc setup. Moreover, the electrical setup varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. So please rather than mocking one another, let's try to learn. I might know something more than you and you might know something more than me. So let's try be nice to each other now.

BTW, @doc, I had a question. Please check your PM. If possible, reply me back on my phone as I'm suffering from NO INTERNET on my phone. :-P and the issue is quite serious. 9874379919 is my number just in case you forgot.

[rajaselvam_1987]

@rajaselvam_1987 How much did u pay for your battery and which brand did you use ?

I don no the brand it's cost me 500rs when i brought before 1yr

[kripscorp]

GS150R DC Convertion Blue HeadLight issue

If I connect the yellow wire (from rr) to battery, Blue light is not glowing in the console when i switch to high beam. everything else is working. Do you have the wiring diagram of GSR ? Can u pls send to me if u have ?

[rajaselvam_1987]

Today i seen a FZ16 stator coil. that too have a 12 poles like in ma CB Twister

[rprathin]

now now genius, you disconnected the battery & your APE RR is directly connected to battery (read, ignition getting no juice from RR either). How on earth do you expect your bike to start on its own?

I don't wanna buy a fight but atleast have a solid base before giving incomplete/wrong info.

hey Abhijeet help me on this,
when i connected hid in pulsar 180 ug4 one problem came that is the battery is discharging so what to do with this i think by putting ape rr because the stock charger does not provide more than 5.5 amps so i think by putting ape rr this problem would be solved..
also with MM i had tested the hid was consuming around 6 amps of current but its 35 watt hid....

[shoeb2015]

hey Abhijeet help me on this,
when i connected hid in pulsar 180 ug4 one problem came that is the battery is discharging so what to do with this i think by putting ape rr because the stock charger does not provide more than 5.5 amps so i think by putting ape rr this problem would be solved..
also with MM i had tested the hid was consuming around 6 amps of current but its 35 watt hid....

If you have used a cheap Chinese meter readings will be wrong/inaccurate.
If you have used cheap Chinese Hid then it uses more than 5 amps most of the time.

[Abhijeet Bhattacharjee]

hey Abhijeet help me on this,
when i connected hid in pulsar 180 ug4 one problem came that is the battery is discharging so what to do with this i think by putting ape rr because the stock charger does not provide more than 5.5 amps so i think by putting ape rr this problem would be solved..
also with MM i had tested the hid was consuming around 6 amps of current but its 35 watt hid....

6A at startup or after proper warming up?
At startup 6A can be considered normal for a HID.
If its consuming 6A even after warming up you can just change your ballast with a good quality one else rewind + APE RR would give you more than 7A with a 17AWG wire.
1st try to swap the ballast and see...

[rprathin]

If you have used a cheap Chinese meter readings will be wrong/inaccurate.
If you have used cheap Chinese Hid then it uses more than 5 amps most of the time.

6A at startup or after proper warming up?
At startup 6A can be considered normal for a HID.
If its consuming 6A even after warming up you can just change your ballast with a good quality one else rewind + APE RR would give you more than 7A with a 17AWG wire.
1st try to swap the ballast and see...

my mm is fine
i had got the bi-xenon projector setup the total amount was 5000 with the courier and the new headlight assy. so i think the hid could be Chinese one i will find some branded bi xenon hid ... if not possible i will rewind it with 17AWG wire and i will put ape rr.....
thanks for help
shoeb & Abhijeet Bhattacharjee

[rakowli]

Please help me in figuring out the P150 DTSi 2004, coil conversion from AC to DC diagram and also which wire to un-ground from the coil.

[rprathin]

If you have used a cheap Chinese meter readings will be wrong/inaccurate.
If you have used cheap Chinese Hid then it uses more than 5 amps most of the time.

6A at startup or after proper warming up?
At startup 6A can be considered normal for a HID.
If its consuming 6A even after warming up you can just change your ballast with a good quality one else rewind + APE RR would give you more than 7A with a 17AWG wire.
1st try to swap the ballast and see...

dude one more help i need from u guys that is that i need around 8 amps from the coil of scooty pep+ i don't know what type of wire gauge to be used because when i had winded it with the 17 gauge around 7 feet per pole the voltage was droped so much that it was only giving 6 volts at idle & 35 volts at full throttle...the total pole of stator coil is 6...so plzzz tell me how much wire gauge is to be used for winding i need 8amps........

[sandeepcf]

dude one more help i need from u guys that is that i need around 8 amps from the coil of scooty pep+ i don't know what type of wire gauge to be used because when i had winded it with the 17 gauge around 7 feet per pole the voltage was droped so much that it was only giving 6 volts at idle & 35 volts at full throttle...the total pole of stator coil is 6...so plzzz tell me how much wire gauge is to be used for winding i need 8amps........

Did you measure the no. of turns per each pole of the original winding?
Because no. of turns is proportional to Voltage and thickness of the wire is proportional to Current.
In rewinding you should maintain the no. of turns intact or atleast close to the original number so that the idle voltage doesn't drop. Also you should choose the maximum thickness of the wire that allows you the same no. of turns.
Try 18 or 18.5 AWG.

[rprathin]

Did you measure the no. of turns per each pole of the original winding?
Because no. of turns is proportional to Voltage and thickness of the wire is proportional to Current.
In rewinding you should maintain the no. of turns intact or atleast close to the original number so that the idle voltage doesn't drop. Also you should choose the maximum thickness of the wire that allows you the same no. of turns.
Try 18 or 18.5 AWG.

can try with a 19g wire & i had not counted the original no. of turns per pole