Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

[sajjt]

anyway, i will think ......with a cool mind......weigh the pros and cons and then i will decide....the information available here is all scattered and confusing.

Dude, do u still belive a fuse will do the job of a regulator? Voltage can go up beyond 90V @ higher rpms, but the current produced from the coils will be less than ur fuse rating and the fuse will sustain supplying the full voltage to ur electricals to smoke them. So what kind of protection u r expecting? If a fuse can restrict this, there wont be any regulators for any alts as fuse is very much economical than a regulator. We cant bypass certain components which is essential and followed by every OEM.

U r making the things more complex than doing it by a tried and tested way. First u decide what u want to make out from this mod, then work on it. This is the best I can offer

[Puneet1]

ac to dc !

Plz guide me how to convert my bike from AC to DC .will the process be the same . i have a RTR and have attached 3 pics from its manual .its an ac+dc as the pass light works even when engine is off.

also where is the RR located on the bike ?

[princesirohi]

Dude, do u still belive a fuse will do the job of a regulator? Voltage can go up beyond 90V @ higher rpms, but the current produced from the coils will be less than ur fuse rating and the fuse will sustain supplying the full voltage to ur electricals to smoke them. So what kind of protection u r expecting? If a fuse can restrict this, there wont be any regulators for any alts as fuse is very much economical than a regulator. We cant bypass certain components which is essential and followed by every OEM.

U r making the things more complex than doing it by a tried and tested way. First u decide what u want to make out from this mod, then work on it. This is the best I can offer

no yaar, fuse will not do the job of a regulator, all i m trying to say is that rectifier voltage is clamped down by battery voltage so voltage will not rise in normal conditions......only when some thing fails like diodes or BR or a short ckt or anything then only voltage will increase and at that time current will also increase, so fuse will work. anyway dont worry....i wont do such a thing like connecting a BR without voltage regulation directly to battery. i did that experiment to find out what is the exact capacity of stator coils before i purchase an APE RR unit or something like that.

buddy ...see my bike is on full DC now. with an HID. so i need around 3 Amps charging current with HID switched OFF and 5.0 Amps charging current with HID switched ON. now i think everything is clear.

one option is to go for coil rewinding, which i will do if everything else fails.


so now tell me wht u have to say....wht should i do?

[princesirohi]

Hey Guys, whats the conclusion here??? I had some idea about converting my 180 ug3 to DC but after going through all the pages i'm damn confused now as to which method to opt!!
I want to plonk in an HID and most of the time i ride inside city so what do you guys suggest? As rahuldevnath suggested just a one wire cut to headlight coil mod and an RR to it and then feeding it to battery will work good for an HID running inside city???
My mechanic was ready to make the headlight work on DC but he warned me of batt draining issues. Now i'm all confused..

i was also a lot confused before i started the mod. all i can say is let me finish my mod 1st then only i will give u any advise. the information available here is all scattered in bits and pieces and its all confusing....wait one month is all i can say.......there are other members who may help you with there experience, like they are already helping me. all i can say is that the final decision regarding wht to do will be taken by you only. others will only suggest. and some of there suggestions may not be actually tested anywhere or may be technically questionable also. so unless u r really curious type, doesn't mind to do a few things urself, get ur hands dirty, ready to take the risks involved (of ending up a few parts of your bike in smoke), ready to devote time (as long as it takes), unless u r ready for all this, don't do it. and don't depend on any single mechanic. u must apply ur mind too.

i m not scaring u away. just ask urself, do you really need it. if the answer is yes ....go ahead.

[sajjt]

Plz guide me how to convert my bike from AC to DC .will the process be the same . i have a RTR and have attached 3 pics from its manual .its an ac+dc as the pass light works even when engine is off.

also where is the RR located on the bike ?

Dude, from the diagram it seems all DC, is light is flickering on idle speed? But from the stator coil pic, its got 3 wires black, pink and yellow, where black is gnded. AC+DC? Pls see howmany wires coming out of the coil socket other than the pulse coil wires.

RR Can be found near the batt, under the seat or so, RTR owners can confirm this.

no yaar, fuse will not do the job of a regulator, all i m trying to say is that rectifier voltage is clamped down by battery voltage so voltage will not rise in normal conditions......only when some thing fails like diodes or BR or a short ckt or anything then only voltage will increase and at that time current will also increase, so fuse will work. anyway dont worry....i wont do such a thing like connecting a BR without voltage regulation directly to battery. i did that experiment to find out what is the exact capacity of stator coils before i purchase an APE RR unit or something like that.

buddy ...see my bike is on full DC now. with an HID. so i need around 3 Amps charging current with HID switched OFF and 5.0 Amps charging current with HID switched ON. now i think everything is clear.

one option is to go for coil rewinding, which i will do if everything else fails.

so now tell me wht u have to say....wht should i do?

Man u get an APE RR and install it, rest we will decide only after seeing the out put from the stock coil thru the RR. Goodluck

[princesirohi]

@ sajjt: u mean to say that remove the stock RR and replace by APE RR. and leave the lighting coil wires unconnected.

or u mean to say connect the APE RR unit to the AC output of stock RR and combine the DC output of APE RR and stock RR. but there is a problem, to connect the APE RR u need two AC wires whereas stock RR AC out is only one wire.

other option is connect the DC charging coil output to stock RR as it is and take the ground out from lighting coil and connect the lighting coil to APE RR and combine the output of two RR's, but in this case as i have observed if we dont connect the AC lighting coil out wire to stock RR, its output is weird. ithink stock RR needs the lighting coil output for some reasons.

tell me wht exactly u suggest.

but i have a doubt. APE is a deisel engine vehicle. the engine RPM is much lower than petrol engine vehicles so maybe.....MAYBE the APE RR is not designed to regulate the voltage over such a wide range?

[sajjt]

@ sajjt: u mean to say that remove the stock RR and replace by APE RR. and leave the lighting coil wires unconnected.

or u mean to say connect the APE RR unit to the AC output of stock RR and combine the DC output of APE RR and stock RR. but there is a problem, to connect the APE RR u need two AC wires whereas stock RR AC out is only one wire.

other option is connect the DC charging coil output to stock RR as it is and take the ground out from lighting coil and connect the lighting coil to APE RR and combine the output of two RR's, but in this case as i have observed if we dont connect the AC lighting coil out wire to stock RR, its output is weird. ithink stock RR needs the lighting coil output for some reasons.

tell me wht exactly u suggest.

Dude, u r loosing the focus somewhere. Its all explained very well in the begning pages. I'll explain once again, firstly know the mod, ie; we dont keep the AC lighting along with DC lighting as we dont've such smart RR as of now atleast to my knowledge. So we will convert the whole thing to DC.

First pull out the stock RR wires, and unground the light coil end from the stator coil body, take it out of the cover and take the other end of the light coil wire (YR), feed these two to the APE RR. Dont depend on the stock harness for this as there are internal gnd tappings. U r making it to a full wave rectified supply. Give the out wire of the RR to the batt. Now ur charging circuit is complete. Now, take the Stock RR socket's wiring harness end, cut the lighting out wire(Y) and tap it to the ign wire ie; brown. Now ur lighting is also in DC, before swtiching on the headlights, re route the power from batt with a higher guage wire through the relays to secure the stock switch. Diagram and everything is explained in detail and u can have others views too. Do the wiring mod with an auto elelctrician, for the saftey. Pls go thru the diagram thorougly and get to work. Goodluck.

[princesirohi]

Dude, u r loosing the focus somewhere. Its all explained very well in the begning pages. I'll explain once again, firstly know the mod, ie; we dont keep the AC lighting along with DC lighting as we dont've such smart RR as of now atleast to my knowledge. So we will convert the whole thing to DC.I AM NOT KEEPING ANYTHING AC HERE, EVERYTHING, ALL LIGHTING, ALL SYSTEM IS DC NOW, ONLY THING IS TO IMPROVE THE CHARGING RATE

First pull out the stock RR wires, and unground the light coil end from the stator coil body,(ALREADY DONE) take it out of the cover and take the other end of the light coil wire (YR), feed these two to the APE RR.(OK) Dont depend on the stock harness for this as there are internal gnd tappings. U r making it to a full wave rectified supply. Give the out wire of the RR to the batt. Now ur charging circuit is complete. Now, take the Stock RR socket's wiring harness end, cut the lighting out wire(Y) and tap it to the ign wire ie; brown. Now ur lighting is also in DC(I DONT NEED THIS IGNITION TAPPING BROWN WIRE, MY LIGHTING IS ALREADY ALL DC), before swtiching on the headlights, re route the power from batt with a higher guage wire through the relays to secure the stock switch.(I HAVE ALREADY DONE THIS) Diagram and everything is explained in detail and u can have others views too. Do the wiring mod with an auto elelctrician, for the saftey. Pls go thru the diagram thorougly and get to work. Goodluck.

so according to you we no longer need the battery charging coil output i.e. two blue/white wires to be connected anywhere. we are dumping that coil. is it so?

[sajjt]

so according to you we no longer need the battery charging coil output i.e. two blue/white wires to be connected anywhere. we are dumping that coil. is it so?

Stock RR light wire out in the wiring harness to be connected to the ign key else, ur lights can be on evenif ur switchkey is off. I dont know how ur electrician bypassed this, check for this as its very important since u r fully depending on battery after the mod. We need to take care of the batt drain if forgets to switch off the HL's. Even a park light can flatten a car batt within an overnight so imagine with a mean 9AH.

Leave the batt coil idle, we cant club it together. Or still've guts to do, just try that too. After all this is the way we all learnt the things including me. I tried with other RRs to get the result but I never been to that extent as am getting a decent output from my light coils alone.

Check the charging rate with the new RR, if its something near 5A @ avg rpm, u'll be fine, else u may need to go for rewinding, depeding on ur riding style. Remember Shreeni's adivce to go for the OEM, else, u may end up ur journey with no lights with other damages to the electricals too.

[Shreeni0403]

Dude, from the diagram it seems all DC, is light is flickering on idle speed? But from the stator coil pic, its got 3 wires black, pink and yellow, where black is gnded. AC+DC? Pls see howmany wires coming out of the coil socket other than the pulse coil wires.

RR Can be found near the batt, under the seat or so, RTR owners can confirm this.

Yup from the wiring diagram he has posted, it seems to be full DC but AFAIK RTR160/180 is not full DC

Sajan, came to know from 1 of fellow xBhp member that Ambition has full wave DC rectifier. Thinking to check that. What would you suggest? Even I am aware that Ambition has a DC lighting.
So should I opt for a Ambiton RR or APE RR is what I am thinking

[princesirohi]

for my DC conversion, APE RR unit is good or pulsar 220 RR unit. i guess 220 is all DC.

[sajjt]

Yup from the wiring diagram he has posted, it seems to be full DC but AFAIK RTR160/180 is not full DC

Sajan, came to know from 1 of fellow xBhp member that Ambition has full wave DC rectifier. Thinking to check that. What would you suggest? Even I am aware that Ambition has a DC lighting.
So should I opt for a Ambiton RR or APE RR is what I am thinking

Ambition is one of the first DC new generation bikes ofcourse, but its having only 35W stock bulb once u change to 55W u r doomed.. Now u decide what u need

From the diagram its DC, but from the coil pic its having 3 wires not making out of it

[sajjt]

for my DC conversion, APE RR unit is good or pulsar 220 RR unit. i guess 220 is all DC.

Dude, u need a single phase RR where P220 is a 3 phase one, so not sure about the outcome, if u got a spare, try with any of the 2 wires. It may work.

[Shreeni0403]

Dude, u need a single phase RR where P220 is a 3 phase one, so not sure about the outcome, if u got a spare, try with any of the 2 wires. It may work.

Experimenting for alternate mod. Good going, keep up the spirit.

[lakhanironak]

My stator coil

Today I opened the cover of the stator coil and now have understood a lot about this mod. Now I have some idea regarding the post made by Shreeni made on the first page.

Basically we dont have to connect any new wire to the stator coil. Am I right about that ?

We are just ungrounding the green wire and connecting it to the other end of the light coil and making it Full Wave. Am I right about that ?

The stator coil in Yamaha Fazer'06



Below is a pic which is zoomed in and the connections are more visible. Also the next pic have my doubts





I have one more doubt regarding the black wire which grounded at the same point where the green wire is grounded. What should I do with this wire ?

I spoke to the mechanic (not a auto electrician, but has some good experience with this kind of work). He said that I can go ahead with either options, Customed built RR or APE RR. Only thing the Custom RR will cost around Rs 200 and the APE RR will cost around Rs. 1100. So first ill try with the custom RR. And then go ahead with the APE RR if things dont work out. What do ull suggest ?

Also ill be first trying this whole setup with my puny 5Ah battery first. Will go ahead with the higher capacity battery once everything works out.

Below are links to all the images

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee44/lakhanironak/IMG_1186.jpg

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee44/lakhanironak/zoomed.jpg

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee44/lakhanironak/Questions.jpg