Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

[princesirohi]

@ abhijeet: i dont switch OFF when the engine is running. here's my starting procedure.

i switch ON the bike crank the starter, then at idling i switch ON the addiional charging through the lighting coil (i have two switches, one for each wire), then i switch ON the HID light additional switch (this switch is kept OFF for starting) now i actually switch ON the light using the standard handle bar mounted light switches.


when switching OFF....

i switch OFF the light from handle bar switch, turn OFF the ignition, then switch OFF additional switches.

so, u see with engine running i dont switch OFF using additional switches, but yes i switch ON during engine running, but that should not be a problem.

wht do u say.

[Ayson]

Sorry to barge into this discussion like this. I am very interested in this topic, and started reading this thread from the begining, but after 3-4 pages, it started going over my head.

So here is my question, I have a P180 UG3. I know it has already been discussed in detail before. But just a more specific question.

Can i make only the stock headlight DC, without modifying the coil or RR unit, or rectfier? (are they the same?) My electrical system is stock, unmodified, no extra accessories.

Basically, all i want is constant brightness for the headlight (only). (Isn't that what everyone wants! ) I do night riding only like once a week, 30 mins max. So battery discharging won't be a big problem i guess.

[sajjt]

Sorry to barge into this discussion like this. I am very interested in this topic, and started reading this thread from the begining, but after 3-4 pages, it started going over my head.

So here is my question, I have a P180 UG3. I know it has already been discussed in detail before. But just a more specific question.

Can i make only the stock headlight DC, without modifying the coil or RR unit, or rectfier? (are they the same?) My electrical system is stock, unmodified, no extra accessories.

Basically, all i want is constant brightness for the headlight (only). (Isn't that what everyone wants! ) I do night riding only like once a week, 30 mins max. So battery discharging won't be a big problem i guess.

U can, but u wont get the backup more than 20-40 mins on a 35W Halogen, depending upon ur batt health, and riding style. Try with a 2 way switch so that once ur batt is flat u can go back to the stock AC lighting. Anything beyond this, other mods are required.

[Ayson]

u wont get the backup more than 20-40 mins on a 35W Halogen, depending upon ur batt health, and riding style

Please tell me if im wrong.
35W / 12V = 2.9167A ~ 3A , 9Ah / 3A = 3h

Yes, my battery won't be 100% efficient. Considering 2yr age, 60% capacity, and since i don't use elec start, 70% charge :
9Ah x 0.6 x 0.7 = 3.78Ah ~ 3.7Ah

3.7Ah / 3A = 1.233h =~ 70 min

Over this the fact that the battery is being charged while in use.

Am i missing anything, or have i been too optimistic with the numbers ? I don't know anything beyond high school electricity.

And finaly, which is the headlight wire? Thanx. BTW how come the thread stopped suddenly?

[sajjt]

Please tell me if im wrong.
35W / 12V = 2.9167A ~ 3A , 9Ah / 3A = 3h

Yes, my battery won't be 100% efficient. Considering 2yr age, 60% capacity, and since i don't use elec start, 70% charge :
9Ah x 0.6 x 0.7 = 3.78Ah ~ 3.7Ah

3.7Ah / 3A = 1.233h =~ 70 min

Over this the fact that the battery is being charged while in use.

Am i missing anything, or have i been too optimistic with the numbers ? I don't know anything beyond high school electricity.

And finaly, which is the headlight wire? Thanx. BTW how come the thread stopped suddenly?

Dude, u ri right, too optimistic with the numbers , u forgot the other loads such as position lamps 5WX2, console lamps another 8W approx, tail lights 5W and other brake lights and indicators etc. will contribute another 30W approx. If u bypass only the HLs figures may improve, but not much as the stock charger is not that smart to compansate the batt drain. We cant fully rely on the theoritical calcs, it depends on the batt health, style of riding and other parameters. Stock condition, batt is not stressed except the self motor, but on H/Ls, continous batt drain is happening and it should be compasated with an adequate charger which is not present in stock RR.

It all depends on demand, for the time being, no body is having any such issues I hope. Or Shreeni or Abhi have to come up with another idea and possibly me too. But now am busy with other works.

[Shreeni0403]

It all depends on demand, for the time being, no body is having any such issues I hope. Or Shreeni or Abhi have to come up with another idea and possibly me too. But now am busy with other works.

Right !! Start thinking..

[Ayson]

I need only the HL in DC. Is doing that more complicated than switching all to DC? The figures should improve considering only the HL right? And where do you recomend putting the 2 way switch? I mean which section of the wire, and also help identifying the wire. I can id it between the switch and the HL, but is it the same colour before the switch too?

[abhijeet080808]

So our guru is back

Where were you man, not to be heard for a long time, exams?

Nope man! My BSNL internet conn. is dead! And as everyone knows, once these things dies, it takes a long time and a lot of effort to get it working once again!

Yup !! Exams from Bajaj to Abhijeet

I wish! (They dont even have a recruitment email address on their web site! I checked once!)

@ abhijeet: i dont switch OFF when the engine is running. here's my starting procedure.

i switch ON the bike crank the starter, then at idling i switch ON the addiional charging through the lighting coil (i have two switches, one for each wire), then i switch ON the HID light additional switch (this switch is kept OFF for starting) now i actually switch ON the light using the standard handle bar mounted light switches.


when switching OFF....

i switch OFF the light from handle bar switch, turn OFF the ignition, then switch OFF additional switches.

so, u see with engine running i dont switch OFF using additional switches, but yes i switch ON during engine running, but that should not be a problem.

wht do u say.

It should work fine that way.

[sajjt]

I need only the HL in DC. Is doing that more complicated than switching all to DC? The figures should improve considering only the HL right? And where do you recomend putting the 2 way switch? I mean which section of the wire, and also help identifying the wire. I can id it between the switch and the HL, but is it the same colour before the switch too?

Yes it will improve in case of HL only DC. 2 way switch to be connected to the stock switch wire to HL (Yellow wire with red stripe) on the left side handle bar module or even in the fairing where the socket starts to the switch. POwer line is identified as YR but u need to cut the wire before the switch to use the bypass. Once the batt is flat, u can change the settings to stock condition, but u need to secure the switch water proof.

[Ayson]

Thank you very much. That's all the info i need now. I'll tell you if any obstacles come up.

[Sourav]

Hello to all the good folk here .

This is Sourav from Chennai.

I have a 3.5 year old Pulsar 150 DTS-i UG3. It's been smooth sailing since the time I bought it. Never faced any issues with it. Serviced at regular intervals at Bajaj and Castrol Bike Zone. So far the bike has done around 38k kilometers. Apart from the rear grab rail that's been changed to the split type from the P200, tyre upgrades, and stator upgrade to the Avengers unit and a 55/60W lamp from the Avenger, I've kept the bike pretty much stock.

Just a few days ago, the horn stopped working. Then the console light, telltale lights, started flickering. Sometimes, while driving, all the lights would go off, and then suddenly come back on. I had the wiring checked and it turns out that most of the cladding has worn off and the connectors are pretty knackered.

Now, I am thinking of changing the entire wiring kit of the bike. I have a small question though. Can the wiring kit from the new Pulsar 150 UG4 be put on my bike? And I am talking about the entire wiring kit, including the BCU.

The reason I want to upgrade to the new wiring kit is that I kinda suck at DIY jobs . So rather than mod it myself to convert the whole thing from AC to DC, I would rather spend some more cash and get the new wiring kit from the UG4.

So, is it possible? If anyone has any pointers on this. it would be greatly appreciated . Also, if anyone knows about the part numbers for the wiring kits, please do share that information. It would be a big help

Thanks to all who took time out to read this post of mine

Looking forward to hearing from someone.

Cheers!

[Shreeni0403]

Hello to all the good folk here .
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.
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Cheers!

Check Here

[sajjt]

Hello to all the good folk here .

This is Sourav from Chennai.

I have a 3.5 year .........................
Looking forward to hearing from someone.

Cheers!

Dude, be patient to get more answers from all than flooding with the same quries every thread.

[rahulya007]

Honda Eterno Conversion to DC

Hi friends..
After reading some of your posts, I thought of posting my problem here.

I have 2003 Honda Eterno Scooter 150 cc which is totally on AC current as OEM. Since the horn were like an auto rickshaw, I finally decided to change it and go in for a battery setup and convert the horn, signal lights (not brake light) and headlight on DC current after 5 years of usage. I got a reference of a mechanic from my car electrician and hence decided to do the conversion with him. However, later on I felt that the mechanic was kind of oversmart and instead of doing the work as per my requirement he started doing it as per his own knowledge and mind. Without telling me, he put an extra switch and routed the HB of the 35W halogen on battery and kept the LB on AC only. I wanted the complete setup to be on DC since during dark patches and slow speeds the headlight used to dim considerably and created visibility problems. He removed the stock horn and the capacitor with it and added Roots horn pair, which I had bought had handed him over and also converted the blinkers to work on DC. While doing the blinkers thing, he only opened the connector socket of the AC circuit and inserted 2 wires to supply the DC current without disconnecting AC wires. I wanted to have a 60/55W halogen and hence on a weekend trip to Alibaug with office friends, I changed the headlight wiring and added a Roots relay to it between the wiring from switch and halogen.

For charging, that mechanic used 2 diodes to prepare a charger and coupled it up with the wiring from the magnet and supplied it to the battery. Initially I had problem with charging, the current was not going above 10-10.5V on a 9 AMP Sonic Battery which increased to around 14-15V after the mechanic added 2 more diodes to the existing setup. Just last month, I bought a bomb charger (the charger actually looks like a hand granade and the shopkeeper himself referred to it as bomb charger , which is generally used by auto wallahs) and after getting some wiring knowledge from a 2W mechanic did the wiring completely.
Earlier, the mechanic had done the complete setup in the front panel of Eterno, which sort of created a banging sound every time it went through bad patches since some of the components were loosely tied or hanging. After putting the bomb charger in the front panel for a couple of days and getting irritated with the banging sound, I decided to do the complete wiring again.

Initially he had taken a single wire from the battery and connected all the wires of devices working on DC to this wire and also the charging wire, which I felt was not proper. So I removed the thin Guage wire he had used and used a 2.5mm color coded wire (red for +ve and black for -ve/gnd). I have used connectors using male-female clips wherever possible to make the wiring job neat. Now I have one dedicated wire going from the coil to the battery via the bomb charger and one wire coming from the battery to connect all the electricals like horn, horn relay, signal lights + relay, headlight + relay. These both wires run almost under the body and are completely covered in cable sleeve.
Moreover, the mechanic has not disconnected the AC setup since the tail light and spedometer lights still work on AC setup. He has taken a wire from the coil and routed it to the charger. I strongly feel this is the problem AFAIK, since the current from the coil is being distributed and hence the complete power cannot come to the battery.

Since my scooter is designed to operate on completely 12V AC current, I am not sure about the power, the winding coil has, or the connections done on the coil..since I don't understand electricals like you guys..I had also been to a rewinding person, but he said rewinding will not help as voltage will not increase to charge the battery as required. Now the problem is, after continous usage of headlight even for 15-20 mins, and intermittent usage of horn, my battery seems to be dying quickly. Battery doesn't charge in idling condition which is sort of problematic, since I have to accelerate intermittently to enable the battery charging.

Now, I want your expert advice and solution to the problem I am facing. I also want to put HID bi xenon H4 if the charging problem is resolved.
A detailed alteration would be great since I don't think, I'll find a mechanic good enough to understand this and most of the work will be done by me only, as far as I can understand without frying anything up.

Regards,

Rahul

[sajjt]

Hi friends..
After reading some of your posts, I thought of posting my problem here.

I have 2003 Honda Eterno Scooter 150 cc which is totally on AC current as OEM. Since the horn were like an auto rickshaw, I finally decided to change it and go in for a battery setup and convert the horn, signal lights (not brake light) and headlight on DC current after 5 years of usage. I got a reference of a mechanic from my car electrician and hence decided to do the conversion with him. However, later on I felt that the mechanic was kind of oversmart and instead of doing the work as per my requirement he started doing it as per his own knowledge and mind. Without telling me, he put an extra switch and routed the HB of the 35W halogen on battery and kept the LB on AC only. I wanted the complete setup to be on DC since during dark patches and slow speeds the headlight used to dim considerably and created visibility problems. He removed the stock horn and the capacitor with it and added Roots horn pair, which I had bought had handed him over and also converted the blinkers to work on DC. While doing the blinkers thing, he only opened the connector socket of the AC circuit and inserted 2 wires to supply the DC current without disconnecting AC wires. I wanted to have a 60/55W halogen and hence on a weekend trip to Alibaug with office friends, I changed the headlight wiring and added a Roots relay to it between the wiring from switch and halogen.

For charging, that mechanic used 2 diodes to prepare a charger and coupled it up with the wiring from the magnet and supplied it to the battery. Initially I had problem with charging, the current was not going above 10-10.5V on a 9 AMP Sonic Battery which increased to around 14-15V after the mechanic added 2 more diodes to the existing setup. Just last month, I bought a bomb charger (the charger actually looks like a hand granade and the shopkeeper himself referred to it as bomb charger , which is generally used by auto wallahs) and after getting some wiring knowledge from a 2W mechanic did the wiring completely.
Earlier, the mechanic had done the complete setup in the front panel of Eterno, which sort of created a banging sound every time it went through bad patches since some of the components were loosely tied or hanging. After putting the bomb charger in the front panel for a couple of days and getting irritated with the banging sound, I decided to do the complete wiring again.

Initially he had taken a single wire from the battery and connected all the wires of devices working on DC to this wire and also the charging wire, which I felt was not proper. So I removed the thin Guage wire he had used and used a 2.5mm color coded wire (red for +ve and black for -ve/gnd). I have used connectors using male-female clips wherever possible to make the wiring job neat. Now I have one dedicated wire going from the coil to the battery via the bomb charger and one wire coming from the battery to connect all the electricals like horn, horn relay, signal lights + relay, headlight + relay. These both wires run almost under the body and are completely covered in cable sleeve.
Moreover, the mechanic has not disconnected the AC setup since the tail light and spedometer lights still work on AC setup. He has taken a wire from the coil and routed it to the charger. I strongly feel this is the problem AFAIK, since the current from the coil is being distributed and hence the complete power cannot come to the battery.

Since my scooter is designed to operate on completely 12V AC current, I am not sure about the power, the winding coil has, or the connections done on the coil..since I don't understand electricals like you guys..I had also been to a rewinding person, but he said rewinding will not help as voltage will not increase to charge the battery as required. Now the problem is, after continous usage of headlight even for 15-20 mins, and intermittent usage of horn, my battery seems to be dying quickly. Battery doesn't charge in idling condition which is sort of problematic, since I have to accelerate intermittently to enable the battery charging.

Now, I want your expert advice and solution to the problem I am facing. I also want to put HID bi xenon H4 if the charging problem is resolved.
A detailed alteration would be great since I don't think, I'll find a mechanic good enough to understand this and most of the work will be done by me only, as far as I can understand without frying anything up.

Regards,

Rahul

What a long post.

Typical AC+DC lighting system will be almost identical. Not sure about the upgrade of 55W halo as the stock coil may not support without rewinding. U need to change the RR to boost the charging with some wire mods from the stator coil which is clearly mentioned in the ealier posts. Pls go through that so that u'll get some idea of what to be done and come back with the queries. Else, we've to repeat the whole story every time.

Pls dont go for HID on ur scooter, with a stock halogen its like a laser gun due to poor focussing, HB is almost firing in parallel ie; straight to the eyes on the oncomers. Only on Honda scooters I've seen this bcz of the HL height and positioning, and some are very deliberatly riding on HB even if its providing light to chest level