Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

[abhijeet080808]

and what if i stick to the APE unit?

Dyno Lighting coil -> APE -> Switchgear -> relay -> Ballast?


No luck with the wiring diagram.

EDIT: oops sorry, didnt read it properly.

Dyno Lighting Coil -> RR unit AC o/p -> Full Wave Rectifier-> battery -> Switchgear ->Relay -> HID ballast.

would the above setup create overcharging. I can create a smart charging unit, but Im bad at housing it :P

No it will not overcharge. Voltage delivered by the stock rr unit will be constant.

If you rewind the stator coil, go for ape rr unit to replace the stock rr unit.

[felix.ragav]

with the HID mod alone I dont think Ill need anything else. might do a rewind job only if HID is a not performing what i need. will upgrade to 55/ 60 then after placing a APE RR. So a full wave rectifier is all i need now .. how many amps and watts am i looking at?

Sorry but power electronics is not my cup of tea.

Thanks!

[abhijeet080808]

with the HID mod alone I dont think Ill need anything else. might do a rewind job only if HID is a not performing what i need. will upgrade to 55/ 60 then after placing a APE RR. So a full wave rectifier is all i need now .. how many amps and watts am i looking at?

Sorry but power electronics is not my cup of tea.

Thanks!

A full wave rectifier yes, but it will give a half wave o/p only if one end of the stator lighting coil is grounded (like in case of pulsars). In that case you will get only half the power, say half of 45W or so. So, remember to use LEDs!

You are looking at some 50W odd load on the rectifier. About 3-4A.

[felix.ragav]

LED's??

But where? My Tail Lamp is LED, I'll convert the Number plate lamp to LED as well. What about turn signal Indicators? Shall I Convert them to LED as well? I have clear lens over the Indicators, so Ill stick to amber high Intensity, Low Power LED's If i can find them, otherwise One single 8mm with a 220 Ohm in series will do the trick

Can I find out if the stator lighting is grouinded without opening the casing? With a DMM perhaps? But a Bit Skeptical about doing it.

@ all: anyone who has done electrical mods on the GS 150? If not I Might be the Hero of GS150 owners who complain of bad lighting, esp to to the dumb reflector design

[abhijeet080808]

LED's??

But where? My Tail Lamp is LED, I'll convert the Number plate lamp to LED as well. What about turn signal Indicators? Shall I Convert them to LED as well? I have clear lens over the Indicators, so Ill stick to amber high Intensity, Low Power LED's If i can find them, otherwise One single 8mm with a 220 Ohm in series will do the trick

Can I find out if the stator lighting is grouinded without opening the casing? With a DMM perhaps? But a Bit Skeptical about doing it.

@ all: anyone who has done electrical mods on the GS 150? If not I Might be the Hero of GS150 owners who complain of bad lighting, esp to to the dumb reflector design

Oops, its the GS150R! Only place left to convert to LED is the number plate lamp! Dont bother with the turn indicators. They are not ON all the time.

You can check for resistance between stator AC wire (that goes to RR unit) and GND. Also, if it is grounded, you will have only one wire, GND will act as the other wire. Do one thing, check the total numbers of wires that goes from stator coil to RR unit. (NOT CDI unit and such)

Else, use a wiring diagram, or you can open up the stator and see.

[lakhanironak]

Oops, its the GS150R! Only place left to convert to LED is the number plate lamp! Dont bother with the turn indicators. They are not ON all the time.

You can check for resistance between stator AC wire (that goes to RR unit) and GND. Also, if it is grounded, you will have only one wire, GND will act as the other wire. Do one thing, check the total numbers of wires that goes from stator coil to RR unit. (NOT CDI unit and such)

Else, use a wiring diagram, or you can open up the stator and see.

Yeah this seems as the only option for you before you open the stator cover. N you do need to be careful .. you would void the warranty once you open the stator cover and change the wiring. So you need to be sure at what your doing.

THe STOCK RR will be probably be under the fuel tank. And yeah all the electricals are routed from here. So it should be easy to locate.

Happy Modding !!

[Shreeni0403]

i have a honda dio.Its engine and everything is similar to older activa

More or less the setup will be same as in Unicorn. So you can proceed with the conversion as mentioned in the first post. If u can source the wiring diagram please do post it here so we can help you better.

[NY:17]

THanx, the users manual doesnt have any diagrams.But will ask the service centre guys,and after that will try to post the pics.

[gajah_gendut]

This my own bike, honda new supra fit (honda wave 100r). I modded its stator and used honda tiger's (GL200R) RR. My bike has 5Amps battery. Its stator gave about 7Amps in hi revs (over 5000RPM).

My friend (an HID importer), gave me free HID bulb and ballast, because I helped him to sale many of his stuffs



I used HID 6000K - 35W with new model of ballast. First startup 4.2A, and stable on 3.1-3.5A.

I took these pictures on 18.00 in my office's parking area. The building in front of my bike about 40 meters. This parking area was surrounded by mercury light (each 250W).

Ballast and wiring set in one box.


Low beam.



High beam.

[princesirohi]

Update: Big problem

Guys as many of already know that i m running an HID and a few months back...with your help converted my bike to DC but using a different approach. I had disconnected the ground connection of lighting coil and got both the ends of coil out of stator connected an APE RR to it and also retained thee stock RR, as it is converting AC to DC from charging coil. now i had paralleled th output of both RR Units and was charging the battery. this system worked fine till one fine day stock RR went off, then i replaced stock RR but till then reverse high voltage has already affected APE RR unit which i was unaware of. then last sunday, all hell broke loose....stock RR, APE RR, BCU konked off. so the system worked perfectly fine for 4 months but once any one RR goes off it immediately destroys the system.

now i m thinking of rewinding the stator and using only one APE RR unit.

parallel charging failed in the long run. guys suggest.

[abhijeet080808]

Thought so. It is always better to go for a single RR unit. Now, go ahead, get it done the right way.

[princesirohi]

since i have to replace my BCU now.... can i use the new BCU of UG4 version that is full DC. my mechanic says no. and if i do replace the BCU with new one what will happen to the DC bypass switch intalled for BCU only?

[princesirohi]

is it possible to use BCU of UG4 in UG3. can somebody tell me. also can somebody tell me what is the difference in RR unit of P150 UG3 & UG4?

plz help.

is there a difference in the stator plates of UG3 & UG4.

[pavanchirmade]

The BCU will probably have different kind of connectors and yes the stators are different in design!if you want a reliable setup go for the rewinding and the ape RR man! its tried and tested by so many people here, and I suggest go for a round ambassador headlight with a 90/100Watt H4. I too am planning to do something like that on my UG3. Just need to find out a way to mount the digital speedometer console elegantly. What's the reason for changing the BCU?

[princesirohi]

i have to change my BCU since it is malfunctioning. kindly read my earlier posts. yesterday i spoke to rahuldevnath, he was saying that even APE RR is prone to failures and it did fail on some xbhpians like shreeni etc.

this indicates that my earlier theory was right. APE RR is made for deisel vehicle which runs at lower RPM, whereas petrol engined bikes run at almost double RPM, this means voltage produced in bikes may be just double of what is produced in the stator of APE.

also the frequency (Hz) of voltage produced in pulsar is f=N.P/120, means 80 to 666 Hz varrying from 1200 RPM to 10000 RPM. In APE it will be maximum 333 Hz at 5000 RPM for 8 pole stator or 166 Hz for 4 pole stator.

this means not only is APE RR designed for lower input AC voltages but lower frequency also.

applying higher voltage means SCR's or thyristors in RR may reach thier breakdown region and

applying higher frequencies means SCR's or thyristors in RR may not get sufficient recovery time in each cycle of operation to function properly.

and to make the things worse we will rewind our pulsar stator in the way described in the thread, then max voltage will be doubled and it may reach 180 volts at around 9000-10000 RPM, whereas normal stock stator lighting and charging coil output is upto 90 volts.

i may be wrong, but based on the data available it seems that i am thinking in the right direction.

i found a website on internet which sells custom RR's at 49 $ but they charge 100 $ to ship to india.

guys can anyone give me wiring diagram of pulsar 150 UG4?