Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

[lakhanironak]

Rahul, princesirohi, there's a correction for wiring, u cant simply cut the yellow wire and feed to RR, as the stock RR is a AC+DC type, one of the light coil is grounded which is to be isolated to get the full DC output. And black wire from stator coil grounded within the harness to be isolated too. So ineffect, we need to fully isolate the yellow and black wires from the harness after isolating the grounding from the light coil and then feed to the new RR. And the RR DC out to be fed to the batt, and one more wire cut from the stock RR AC out wire (YR) to be tapped to the ignition switch out wire(Br), u r done and the wiring is on DC now, except the re routing power supply thru relays. Feed the SPST relay coils from the H/L beam wire/stock socket and take the power directly from the batt for the bulb with a higher guage wire. This is the wiring I am using and I feel rather depending on the harness fully, the isolation part will take care of any internal shorting or so. Wrong wiring can smoke the entire harness, even power from a mean 2.5A batt will do the job in secs.

Rahul is right, for an HID no need of coil rewinding required, only the recharge rate is to be altered. But u need to open the stator cover for isolating the grounding wire

Once u do the above wiring mod, all ur lights will be up as earlier but on DC, but if u r not going to rewind, u may sacrifice the pilot lamps as its eatingup of good chunk say 20W from the batt, note that ur HID rating is only 35W! and u may not get enough backup,but on higher rpm rides, will not affect this. Or u can even change to LEDs costing 100-300 range, better go for the higher range will offer a good life span.

Its a tricky mod, Am not sure about the outcome of keeping two RR. In case if u succeed too, u need to rewind the batt charging coil to boost the charging rate, what do u think? which is more easy? And why do u want AC lighting with you man? Evenif ur batt is flat too, if u got an aux lamp, still there's power from the RR just like u get from the AC lighting. I used my HID with a flat batt for 2-3 days, but my coil is 130W+ after rewinding.

Being with a single HID bulb, I strongly recomed for an aux light incase of an emergency as in case of failure to the HID, u'll be left in the darkness, no body can give u a spare HID bulb/Ballast from local spares.

Am on full DC for the past 4 months and everythings are as smooth as OEM. There are other members like Abhi, Shree etc. who r running on DC more than a year and they will vouch for this. If u do the wiring mods correctly u've nothing to worry, else, u've lot to worry Better take help from an experienced auto electrician not mech and brief him what all things are to be done, to avoid confusion later.

Now u decide what to do and Goodluck.

OK. Isolation is the answer to my question above. So wat are we exactly doing in isolation ? just removing these wires and keeping them aside ? Arent the Black and Yellow used for charging the battery using the stock RR unit ?

The tapping of stock RR AC out wire (YR)to the ignition switch out wire(Br). At which point in the harness do we do this ? Just at the point where we disconnect them from the stock RR ?

Also earlier there was a mention about Parallel connection of the stock charging and light coils. If we disconnect the black Yellow how will we go about this ?

I dont have any Pilot lamps as such. Just one extra small bulb in the headlight which acts as a parking lamp. Which I can sacrifice. So Do I need to go in for rewinding of the light coil ?

Post EDITED Again After Going through the thread once more.

Also Sajjt earlier mentioned in http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/367895-post52.html, After looking at Shreeni's Coils, I have a feeling, My coils are also wound in the same Manner. End of the lighting pole was CW then start of the charging coil should be in ACW. So ill be going in for series connection also. So basically I just have to unground the other end of Light coil and connect it to the Green Wire. Also also ground the Pulse coil by grounding to the body.

But all this still leaves me confused regarding the Black wire. Whats the purpose of the black wire ?

My doubts are almost clear now. Sorry for all these multiple posts. All this is probably happening because we're dealing with three different brands of bikes i.e, Honda, Bajaj, and Yamaha.

Also I have a feeling the coil is three phase and not single phase which is different from all the bikes that we're discussing here i.e, Pulsar and Unicorn.

[sajjt]

Experimenting for alternate mod. Good going, keep up the spirit.

To my intuition, it should work man, if u see the custom RR circuit its almost the same as the single phase except one more bridge and regulator circuit. And if u want to convert the circuit to a single phase, just remove the extra one bridge and the regulator. So it should work even with a OEM RR with two wires but choosing the wires is another job but not a big deal. First two adjcent wires may do the job. I didnt get access to a 3 phase RR, else I would've tried that also

Today I opened the cover of the stator coil and now have understood a lot about this mod. Now I have some idea regarding the post made by Shreeni made on the first page.

Basically we dont have to connect any new wire to the stator coil. Am I right about that ?

We are just ungrounding the green wire and connecting it to the other end of the light coil and making it Full Wave. Am I right about that ?

The stator coil in Yamaha Fazer'06



Below is a pic which is zoomed in and the connections are more visible. Also the next pic have my doubts





I have one more doubt regarding the black wire which grounded at the same point where the green wire is grounded. What should I do with this wire ?

I spoke to the mechanic (not a auto electrician, but has some good experience with this kind of work). He said that I can go ahead with either options, Customed built RR or APE RR. Only thing the Custom RR will cost around Rs 200 and the APE RR will cost around Rs. 1100. So first ill try with the custom RR. And then go ahead with the APE RR if things dont work out. What do ull suggest ?

Also ill be first trying this whole setup with my puny 5Ah battery first. Will go ahead with the higher capacity battery once everything works out.

Below are links to all the images

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee44/lakhanironak/IMG_1186.jpg

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee44/lakhanironak/zoomed.jpg

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/e.../Questions.jpg

Wow, having 12 poles in Yamaha, and struggling to feed a HID Ur bike is an AC+DC bike so will have 2 coils, one for lighting and the other for batt charging. If you could post a wiring diagram it would've been better understanding of this.

From the pic cant make out the coils, so count the poles having more windings with the same winding wire is the light coil. Check for the winding pattern for the phase shifting too. This can be make sure by an electrician, we need only the bigger coil to feed the batt, so ask him to trace it and take out the gnding, route it through the idle wires (batt coil wire) and then repeat the procedure of APE RR. Dont forget to unplug the socket of the stock RR before this. Forget about the Pullsar colour codes as its diff in Yamaha. U have to trace out the wires, as we dont've a wiring diagram as of now.

OK. Isolation is the answer to my question above. So wat are we exactly doing in isolation ? just removing these wires and keeping them aside ? Arent the Black and Yellow used for charging the battery using the stock RR unit ?

The tapping of stock RR AC out wire (YR)to the ignition switch out wire(Br). At which point in the harness do we do this ? Just at the point where we disconnect them from the stock RR ?

Also earlier there was a mention about Parallel connection of the stock charging and light coils. If we disconnect the black Yellow how will we go about this ?

I dont have any Pilot lamps as such. Just one extra small bulb in the headlight which acts as a parking lamp. Which I can sacrifice. So Do I need to go in for rewinding of the light coil ?

Post EDITED Again After Going through the thread once more.

Also Sajjt earlier mentioned in http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/367895-post52.html, After looking at Shreeni's Coils, I have a feeling, My coils are also wound in the same Manner. End of the lighting pole was CW then start of the charging coil should be in ACW. So ill be going in for series connection also. So basically I just have to unground the other end of Light coil and connect it to the Green Wire. Also also ground the Pulse coil by grounding to the body.

But all this still leaves me confused regarding the Black wire. Whats the purpose of the black wire ?

My doubts are almost clear now. Sorry for all these multiple posts. All this is probably happening because we're dealing with three different brands of bikes i.e, Honda, Bajaj, and Yamaha.

Also I have a feeling the coil is three phase and not single phase which is different from all the bikes that we're discussing here i.e, Pulsar and Unicorn.

Exactly, just leave the batt charging coil idle and take out the light coil and feed it to the new RR. We need to have the wiring diagrams dude to confirm the rest.

This is already answered about the colour codes. Dont use the stock harness to connect the RR. USe seperate wires to complete circuit.

I dont know the effect of parallel charging.

Good, it can save u another 5W anyway, first u need to convert it to DC and measure the output then decide if rewinding is required.

May be, we dont know the winding pattern and hence I adviced u to take help from an electrician, he can trace out the gnding for the pulse coil is common or not. If its common, u need to isolate from the PC. Note that, we only need the light coils to be isolated, so all other wires are to be intact with the original state.

LEt the electrician confirm the wires.

No way its a single phase one. If its a 3 phase coil, three coils will be there and the one of the each coil will be common. U've got only 2 common wire ie; black and green and its gnded, 3 phase coils there wont be any gndings.

[princesirohi]

Hero Honda Ambition is also full DC, does anybody know the output of Ambition's RR unit?

yesterday evening i connected my bridge rectifier ckt. to the AC regulated output of stock RR

it was giving an output of 1.25 Amps at 4000 RPM and 1.35 Max. this output combined (Parallel) with stock RR DC out gave a combined output of 2.9 Amps at 4000 RPM and 3.2 Amps at 6000 RPM and did not increase further. this is not sufficient.

can someone tell me the output of HH ambition RR unit?

[sajjt]

Hero Honda Ambition is also full DC, does anybody know the output of Ambition's RR unit?

yesterday evening i connected my bridge rectifier ckt. to the AC regulated output of stock RR

it was giving an output of 1.25 Amps at 4000 RPM and 1.35 Max. this output combined (Parallel) with stock RR DC out gave a combined output of 2.9 Amps at 4000 RPM and 3.2 Amps at 6000 RPM and did not increase further. this is not sufficient.

can someone tell me the output of HH ambition RR unit?

http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/universal-threads/11469-convert-ac-dc-bike-all-dc-11.html#post371396

[gajah_gendut]

@lakhanironak

i think your bike is similar with yamaha scorpio (SX4) in indonesia.
only differentce are your bike has 12 coils, scorpio has 7 ( 1 cdi coil, 3 lighting and the last ones for charging).

this is scorpio's


this is (may be) your stock stator wiring.


you have to mod your stator like this




- unsolder yellow wire from solder tab (A).
- unsolder coil wire from solder tab (B). let black and green wires soldered on solder tab.
- joint yellow wire with coil wire, add additional wire if needed, then isolate with heatshrink. now your stator output will be white and yellow wires. check both whether both cable connected to ground or not. should be no connection to the ground.




- then both yellow and white will be input to your full wave RR.

cut yellow wire (headlight supply), then connect it to ign key (+) usually brown wire in yamaha.

now you have full dc lighting.

[princesirohi]

http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/universa...tml#post371396

I HAVE ALREADY READ THAT, i m asking "does anybody know the output of ambition RR unit. even i know that ambition has a 35w headlight. but does ambition RR unit gives 3 amp output, if yes then i will buy 2 of them and connect one to lighting coil and one to charging coil and combine the output. ok thats my scheme.

[lakhanironak]

Should I go Ahead ?

@lakhanironak

i think your bike is similar with yamaha scorpio (SX4) in indonesia.
only differentce are your bike has 12 coils, scorpio has 7 ( 1 cdi coil, 3 lighting and the last ones for charging).

this is scorpio's


this is (may be) your stock stator wiring.


you have to mod your stator like this




- unsolder yellow wire from solder tab (A).
- unsolder coil wire from solder tab (B). let black and green wires soldered on solder tab.
- joint yellow wire with coil wire, add additional wire if needed, then isolate with heatshrink. now your stator output will be white and yellow wires. check both whether both cable connected to ground or not. should be no connection to the ground.




- then both yellow and white will be input to your full wave RR.

cut yellow wire (headlight supply), then connect it to ign key (+) usually brown wire in yamaha.

now you have full dc lighting.

@gajah_gendut : So wat do you suggest, should i directly join the coil wire to the yellow wire without checking the phase shift, colour codes etc. I personally feel that this method should work, Coz ive read the same on a lot forums as well as this thread.

So basically in this mod, we're isolating the battery charging coils completely and relying completely on the light coils, I presume they more poles and also more winding than the stock charging coil.

Also I just bought the tools for opening the stator cover, so that I can do the research bymyself.

I wanted to check the currrent currently being supplied to the battery. How do i go about this ? Just connect the two terminals of the multimeter (MM) to the respective terminals which are charging the battery ? or should I connect these terminals to the stator output or to the output of RR ?

I was also worried about overcharging issue when the HID is not in use. How do you go about this ?

As princesirohi earlier mentioned about DC chopper which difficult to design and costly, I dont think this is a viable solution.

@Sajjt and @Shreeni : wat have u done for the overcharging issue ?

Also AFAIK, this problem will only occur in the setup currently being used princesirohi as he is charging the battery by using two different set of coils.

So wat do you all suggest should i go ahead with the mod by joining the grounded end of light coil to yellow wire. or should I post the wiring diagram here ? I went to the SC today for getting the diagram and as usual they dint have the diagram.

If I want to calculate phase shift. How do i go about this ? Should I just count the no of Light Coils and Charging Coils ? Also check the way they have been would i.e, CW and ACW ? How does the Phase Shift affect this mod, arent we just gonna take the AC output of one of the coils i.e, light coil.

About RR, now this is a confusing part on this thread. We have several bikes now with Full DC RR. Amibition, FZ, R15, 220. Keep in mind the R15 and the New Fazer have 2 x 35 watts bulbs = 70 watts which are turned on in High Beam. And ofcourse the APE RR too.

Also I had got the stator inspected by an electrician today. Pulse coil is seperately grounded. There are three Four Wires going out from the Stator. White (Charging), Yellow/Orange (Light), Green (?), Black (?). One of the two Green and Black is for ingnition, not sure which one.

I will be taking off the Fuel Tank tonight and check the connections with RR. Also Will go about counting the no of light coils, charging coils etc and design a wiring diagram. It feels good to have all the tools, it makes the DIY work easier.

About Heat Shrink, Where do u get this ? Any idea ? Or will the electrician who perform the job on my bike have it ?

Most of the electricians and mechanics ive been seeing for the past couple of days dont know much about Full Wave Rectification. What they suggest to me is that we should just disconnect the Yellow wire of Light Coil from the Stock RR and connect it to a bigger Charger, they are probably referring to the RR unit. Should I also go about this method, I guess ill have to make the BR for this purpose ?

But AFAIK the isolation of charging coil and using the FULL WAVE Light coil with New RR is the most recommended method worldwide.

Earlier I posted a link http://www.trailtech.net. This company is specialized in making RR units with higher current output. They have DIY installation guides for all their products. The installation guides which are for bikes such as KTM. In one such guide the same method that we have been trying to use has been used. Moreover they have completely disconnect the charging coil.

The link to the guide is here :

http://trailtech.net/media/electrical/dc_conversions/ktm_dc_conversion.pdf

An Extract from the above guide which I have edited (red text) is displayed and attached below



A link to the above image :

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee44/lakhanironak/ktm_1.jpg

[gajah_gendut]

@lakhanironak

yup. just unsolder yellow wire (A) and joint with coil wire (B). i did in more than 20 bikes like this, and never problem with them all.
why did you think there was a phase shift? i dont think so. because solder tab A is Center Tap (like transformer, except last coil in stator grounded to chasis, this make half power lost).

about checking current supply, usually i use my avometer. unfortunately, mine only max 5DCA rate. no preblem for small bike like my bike. but for 'bigger' bike i can not measure amperage from RR in hi rev.

this what i did when measuring charging amperage.
- uninstall charge wire (usually red) from RR.
- set avo switch to DC ampere in max 20A (if any). red probe to your RR output, then black one to charge wire. start engine and play with low-midle-high rev. you can see amperage of charging to your battery.


i'd never problem with overcharging issue in my bike or any other bike i've modded. because i always use Fullwave RR that have battery monitor.

my RR has 5 wires/connector. 2 input from stator, 1 ground, 1 battery charge and one 1 battery monitor(connected to ignition key [+], when key on, it will start monitoring battery voltage). batt. monitor wire is used to compare both voltage charging and battery voltage. whether higher.
if battery voltage lower than RR charging voltage, then RR will supply voltage at maximum preset limit of RR. when battery voltage is in a same level with RR voltage supply, then all stator output will be grounded by RR. this means no charging to battery. so battery voltage is always kept in 'health' condition.

i have some interesting experiences about this kind of fullwave RR.
- if battery monitor not connected to ignition key but charging wire still connected to battery, i had 16-18V DC voltage on my battery when hi rev .
- if both battery monitor and charging wire not connected, i had 2~10VDC only on RR


i bought heatshrink or heat resistant tubing (like in your clothes iron) in local electrical shop. easy to find in alot of diameter, 1mm-200mm

[Shreeni0403]

@Sajjt and @Shreeni : wat have u done for the overcharging issue ?

By looking at coil I think you have to un-ground only the green wire. Probably your white wire is for the charging coil and yellow for lighting coil. Can you take pics of RR unit connectors along with wires connected to it. Plz post it in picasa and give link

If you can give wiring diagram, its much easy rather than all guess work !!

Don't mess up things to use 2 coils and connect it to 1 RR. Keep things as simple as possible so that you won't end up somewhere in the road without light !!!

Overcharging issues, u mean in terms of amps or v ?? Mine volts increased bcz of RR failure. Regarding amps, as long as you use your battery efficiently it can never overcharge

[sajjt]

I wanted to check the currrent currently being supplied to the battery. How do i go about this ? Just connect the two terminals of the multimeter (MM) to the respective terminals which are charging the battery ? or should I connect these terminals to the stator output or to the output of RR ?

I was also worried about overcharging issue when the HID is not in use. How do you go about this ?

@Sajjt and @Shreeni : wat have u done for the overcharging issue ?

Also AFAIK, this problem will only occur in the setup currently being used princesirohi as he is charging the battery by using two different set of coils.

So wat do you all suggest should i go ahead with the mod by joining the grounded end of light coil to yellow wire. or should I post the wiring diagram here ? I went to the SC today for getting the diagram and as usual they dint have the diagram.

If I want to calculate phase shift. How do i go about this ? Should I just count the no of Light Coils and Charging Coils ? Also check the way they have been would i.e, CW and ACW ? How does the Phase Shift affect this mod, arent we just gonna take the AC output of one of the coils i.e, light coil.

About RR, now this is a confusing part on this thread. We have several bikes now with Full DC RR. Amibition, FZ, R15, 220. Keep in mind the R15 and the New Fazer have 2 x 35 watts bulbs = 70 watts which are turned on in High Beam. And ofcourse the APE RR too.

Also I had got the stator inspected by an electrician today. Pulse coil is seperately grounded. There are three Four Wires going out from the Stator. White (Charging), Yellow/Orange (Light), Green (?), Black (?). One of the two Green and Black is for ingnition, not sure which one.

I will be taking off the Fuel Tank tonight and check the connections with RR. Also Will go about counting the no of light coils, charging coils etc and design a wiring diagram. It feels good to have all the tools, it makes the DIY work easier.

About Heat Shrink, Where do u get this ? Any idea ? Or will the electrician who perform the job on my bike have it ?

Most of the electricians and mechanics ive been seeing for the past couple of days dont know much about Full Wave Rectification. What they suggest to me is that we should just disconnect the Yellow wire of Light Coil from the Stock RR and connect it to a bigger Charger, they are probably referring to the RR unit. Should I also go about this method, I guess ill have to make the BR for this purpose ?

But AFAIK the isolation of charging coil and using the FULL WAVE Light coil with New RR is the most recommended method worldwide.

Dude, its better to confirm the windings first rather guess work to save from other failures. I have a suggestion for identifying the coils. Just unsolder all three points and measure the resistance between them, the higher value will be the light coil as its got more poles and turns. Also check for the center tap like gajah_gendut reffering to. If u can make use of the both coils its more than enough than rewinding. So check for the winding paterns after the center tap. If its complementing each other, surely u can club it and feed it to the RR and enjoy the full power. If not, just leave the batt coil and take out the light coil and do the rest.

Hope u've a Digital MM to measure the current, after completing the circuit, pull out the batt negative wire from the batt, connect one end of the probe to the batt and other probe to the negative wire u've disconnected, make sure that u've set the MM settings to 10A. Start the engine, u can read the current with and without load.

There is a chance of over charging during long runs in day time without any load such as touring or so. We dont use our lights on day time and since the RR is smart, it can heat the batt, so what I've done is by using an additional SPST relay, RR can be switched off. So only when I switch the HLs, the RR will get the power from the coils by activating the relay. Rest of the time, my RR is resting, so ineffect, its supposed to do the night shift only I can crank the engine,honk the horn for the day time my new batt never feel stressed till date.

And about Prince, that chap wants things to be complicated before he settles No idea how to console him

AFAIK, FZ both lights will not be on at a time unless u do some wiring mod. But u can check the RR details, it can be useful.

[princesirohi]

By looking at coil I think you have to un-ground only the green wire. Probably your white wire is for the charging coil and yellow for lighting coil. Can you take pics of RR unit connectors along with wires connected to it. Plz post it in picasa and give link

If you can give wiring diagram, its much easy rather than all guess work !!

Don't mess up things to use 2 coils and connect it to 1 RR. Keep things as simple as possible so that you won't end up somewhere in the road without light !!!

Overcharging issues, u mean in terms of amps or v ?? Mine volts increased bcz of RR failure. Regarding amps, as long as you use your battery efficiently it can never overcharge

battery wont be overcharged because almost all OEM RR's will only charge the battery till 15.0 Volts, but the thing is they will charge it very fast at 4-5 amps which may be harmful.

[princesirohi]

[/LEFT]
[/CENTER]


There is a chance of over charging during long runs in day time without any load such as touring or so. We dont use our lights on day time and since the RR is smart, it can heat the batt, so what I've done is by using an additional SPST relay, RR can be switched off. So only when I switch the HLs, the RR will get the power from the coils by activating the relay. Rest of the time, my RR is resting, so ineffect, its supposed to do the night shift only I can crank the engine,honk the horn for the day time my new batt never feel stressed till date.

And about Prince, that chap wants things to be complicated before he settles No idea how to console him

.

i dont want things to be complicated, and i dont need anybody to console me. i just dont want to do coil rewinding, so i am searching for alternative means, and there's no harm in doing so. i dont follow others blindly, i do my own research before settling on anything. i want to get the job done in minimum changes, as the more you change the stock setup---believe it or not you are compromising the reliability of bike. so thats the whole idea of trying out everything before a final configuration is finalized.

and it was me who for the first time raised this issue of battery overcharging, i only suggested to use a switch for additional charging only when lights are ON. anyway......i m happy with my research.....hopefully i will find a solution.

[lakhanironak]

[/LEFT]
[/CENTER]

Dude, its better to confirm the windings first rather guess work to save from other failures. I have a suggestion for identifying the coils. Just unsolder all three points and measure the resistance between them, the higher value will be the light coil as its got more poles and turns. Also check for the center tap like gajah_gendut reffering to. If u can make use of the both coils its more than enough than rewinding. So check for the winding paterns after the center tap. If its complementing each other, surely u can club it and feed it to the RR and enjoy the full power. If not, just leave the batt coil and take out the light coil and do the rest.

Hope u've a Digital MM to measure the current, after completing the circuit, pull out the batt negative wire from the batt, connect one end of the probe to the batt and other probe to the negative wire u've disconnected, make sure that u've set the MM settings to 10A. Start the engine, u can read the current with and without load.

There is a chance of over charging during long runs in day time without any load such as touring or so. We dont use our lights on day time and since the RR is smart, it can heat the batt, so what I've done is by using an additional SPST relay, RR can be switched off. So only when I switch the HLs, the RR will get the power from the coils by activating the relay. Rest of the time, my RR is resting, so ineffect, its supposed to do the night shift only I can crank the engine,honk the horn for the day time my new batt never feel stressed till date.

And about Prince, that chap wants things to be complicated before he settles No idea how to console him

AFAIK, FZ both lights will not be on at a time unless u do some wiring mod. But u can check the RR details, it can be useful.

what do u mean by complement each other ? how do check that on the winding ... Ill need some assistance regarding this.

Coz im really not used to opening the stator cover and working on it .. its really heavy and the sight of it kind of freaks me out at times... even though im almost gonna become a electronics engineer in 4 months ...

[sajjt]

i dont want things to be complicated, and i dont need anybody to console me. i just dont want to do coil rewinding, so i am searching for alternative means, and there's no harm in doing so. i dont follow others blindly, i do my own research before settling on anything. i want to get the job done in minimum changes, as the more you change the stock setup---believe it or not you are compromising the reliability of bike. so thats the whole idea of trying out everything before a final configuration is finalized.

and it was me who for the first time raised this issue of battery overcharging, i only suggested to use a switch for additional charging only when lights are ON. anyway......i m happy with my research.....hopefully i will find a solution.

Hey, hey, hold ur horses man, I dont want to hurt u, rather, take it in a lighter sense, else, there were chances, but we are not here to fight. I am spending a lot of business hrs just to keep a good rappo with u guys. For me, my requirement is fulfilled and no more research is required until I see something new. I've spent more than 2 months to sort out this particular issue, I got full support from Abhi and Shreeni and others too. If u r so keen to that u can see that if u look around. We are also engaged to our own work, so pls count the time we spent for others. I never answer any queries thru PM but only on forums I used to share what I have bcz, it will be helpful for more people here. And this is the way I learnt all these so am just returning it. And am not claiming for any credits or copyrights of any mods here, but if u look around other threads closely, there are posts about overcharging queries and the way to tackle too. So its not at ur merrit dude.

U dont have to blindly follow anyone, if u do so, u r wrong. But whatever we do here, its from somebodys idea, and obiviously ours too, just sharing and trying it. What ever u do other than the stock setup, realiability is questionable, but dude, just hear this. My bike is running on a rewounded coil for more than 3 yrs and there others in this forum doing the same. Its not a big science to understand, but something u've to sacrifice too, may a drop of few rpms, No pain no gain. Its a tried and tested idea, if u like it, u take it, else u just ignore. Each mod evolves lot of trial and error methods with time and money, which we cant repeat with everyone, but be choosy in selecting the mod. And if u still belive that u can, well, whats wrong in that if u have enough time and money ?

All I meant to give a slight humour in that statement, and if u felt that am poking ur senses, really sorry man, thats all I can tell u and Goodluck to you.

[princesirohi]

@ sajjt: Its ok dude. lets be at peace man....its rather bad day for me in office today.


anyway....here's more update...in the mean time i have written an email to bajaj guys asking for some details. lets hope they reply soon.

has anybody seen the RR unit of new pulsar 150 UG4? is it same as that of UG3.