Yeah it's possible, going to open up the top end tomorrow and check, will stick the stock cam back in, I'm fairly convinced the timing chain is not fitted/adjusted properly, if something is not correctly fitted will put the high lift back in.

Stefanm,

Good to see the updates as yet!

I'm still on the exhaust and filter. Haven't been able to get the Bore in yet.

Waiting for more inputs as and when you get time i.e.

I would add too once I bolt the bore on mine!

Good Luck!

@ stefanm

Sir, I have PM'd you

Smooth as silk

Ok here's my update,

So far I have clocked a massive 90km's since the install, I had done a hard run in or break in for the first 42km's then change the oil and filter.

The bike was quick, but had a horrible ticking sound (sounds like a sewing machine), which actually was so over powering, i couldn't even enjoy the exhaust note.

I wasn't too concerned, but I knew it needed sorting, the mech who had done the install seemed to think it was an issue with the timing, Joel was thinking on the same lines, in the back of my mind I was thinking, had I busted a piston ring? but there was no smoke and zero oil consumption or leakages. So I had called my mech to take a look, he had told me he was busy (this was yesterday) and he was leaving for Bangalore today for 2 weeks.

I didn't want to leave the bike in this condition, as I was due to head to Bombay tonight, it turns out i need to delay my trip for a day anyway. I had gone to see a local mech last night, he told me to come today by 10:30 and we'll adjust the timing and reset the valve clearances. Promptly I arrive at 10:30, the workshop is only 50 metres from my house. He turns up at 11:15, we start we adjust the timing and reset the valve clearances, fire up and not much difference, we try 2 or 3 times more and even manually adjust the valve clearances, nada, my mind is in a panic when he tells me there is a problem with the bore, i hope for the best and think the worse, he requests me to bring a new block and a new head gasket and return by 4 pm. I bring the gaskets, a bottle of coolant and an oil filter just incase, bugger turns up at 6:30 pm and didn't tell me what he was thinking.

So we take the head off the engine, this is all done with the bottom end still on the bike, I check for damage, the bugger still hasn't told me what he's thinking! Anyway I inspect the valves, the camshaft and the piston/rings for any damage, everything looks pristine to me, so no issues, my panic is over, then this fellow starts to file down the new head gasket, then he tells me, he had fitted a big bore kit from Joel on a Karizma and had the same ticking noise, if only he had told me that earlier i would have been cool. We reassemble the bike after a test fire up, plonk in the new coolant etc. fire her up, sound is gone, the motor sounds just like stock! and is just as smooth, vibrations are low, the exhaust is loud!

Now i am running mineral oil, will change it at 250kms and then at around 500kms, then 1200kms at around 2000kms I will switch to either semi or fully synthetic oil, this will be when the run in or break in is complete (ish)

Ride it like you stole it! This is not a new philosophy, it really (IMO) helps to seal the piston rings, combined with the extra oil changes and mineral oil useage will keep the internals in great condition and overall should give a little extra BHP.

I have taken a video of the initial installation and the first oil change, the oil change clip clearly shows a lot of metal particles in the oil, regardless of a hard break in or a baby sitting one, it's important to get the oil change in early, at around 40 km's is a good option, this is regardless of a new vehicle or a rebore and change your filter aswell, don't try to save a few bucks, you will pay in the end.

The right procedure for a perfect run-in is,
oil change after first 50kms - mineral
oil change after 150-200kms - mineral again
oil change after 500kms and then full blast. Switch to full synth.
But 99% of them have no patience. So its atleast recommended to do 500kms without load, with moderate acceleration and keeping revs below 5-6k.

Thank you for the lesson sir. I will never forget this now.

@ stefanm

Sir, Hope you are enjoying your R17 now.

Any plans for selling your Stock Exhaust or Bore????

If yes please PM me, Thanks.

Latest update,

Had a few issues last night, thought the battery was kaput, bike wouldn't start, took it to a battery wallah this morning and no problem, turns out that whilst riding last night the screw holding the ground wire for one of my HID's was loose, the lights kept flickering, this in turn put extra strain on the battery as the HID had to reignite many times, replaced the screw this afternoon and ran around 60km's with the HID's on and problem has gone.

Today I changed the oil at 165 km's quite apt! I have been riding normally, only slightly subdued.

Remember the first 42km's was run hard, I hit the rev limiter twice, although not intentional, the idea was to load pressure on the piston rings for a tight seal. The problem is that we hadn't screwed down the gear shifter and both times the gear shifter was dangling and I was riding on a decline, still it's all good!

The first oil change at 42 km's had a lot of metal shavings evident in the oil and filter as expected, today's change at 165 km's had metal particles still evident is oil and filter, but considerably less, around 5% of the first oil change, i have video'd this, not sure if it will be visible if I upload to youtube.

The bike just gets better, it's really a pleasure to ride now power delivery is good even at 3k rpm's after 5-6 k rpm's it really flies, in gear acceleration is really sweet, I find myself in 6th gear very early and looking for a 7th.

Only two issues I am facing is related to the fueling, a few flat spots are there, this will get sorted with the ECU, one SVC may be having an FID kit so will try tomorrow and adjust the AFR, this should help somewhat. The second is also related to fueling and may also be related to the high lift camshaft, on a cold start I let the bike idle for around 1.5 to 2 minutes then set off slowly, now if for example I am at 3k rpm and I brake, when I pull the clutch the engine stalls, this goes away after around 5 km's of riding, this should go away after adjusting the AFR, just hoping these fellows actually have the kit, the workshop manager was unsure, but some of the mechanics claim it is there and only the senior mechanic can use it, he was away when i went there today, will try tomorrow morning if I am free.

Other things to note, the exhaust has mellowed even further and after changing the oil today and letting her warm up properly I had a great ride upshifting often at 8.5k rpm, though mostly at 6-7k rpm.

Sorry missed this one, PM me when you're down.

I believe every Joelled R15 rider goes through this!

The flat spots are there. The FID helps to a extent.

The idle rpm will come back to previous levels once the engine is run in. I adjusted mine and now after 3k+ kms, it is at 1.6k rpm when hot. So need to dial it down to stock levels.

Congratulations on the build!! It was very interesting to read all that you have written! Enjoy the miles on your bike. It is a lot more fun with Joel's kit than when on stock.

Cool down bro...He might be little busy right now...Believe me he is a very genuine and helpful guy...

Do SVC guys install aftermarket upgrades ?? Is it normal for them to modify a bike at SVC , I mean , they are allowed or will need special influence to get my job done ?? I plan to for joel's bore ,ffe and air filter

Absolutely true...even I had to run after him for my RTR big bore kit but I did get it . Joel did NOT renege on his promises.However,he could be a bit more punctual in sticking to his shipping timelines,I guess.

The orders have all been sent out. The last 2-3 months have been hell for us here,. Now the racing calender has come to an end and we are making the whole system very easy to access.
Sorry for all the inconvenience.