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@ Sharan_R
Bro, Please ship your Cylinder Head alone first to Joel and get the Porting done for your Setup (I mean FFE + 165CC Block + Air Filter) which is unique and changes according to the combinations.
Finally get all the Goodies, with your Ported Head and assemble your bike.
I will explain it in Layman words,
Your bike is 150CC now and all ports are tuned precisely to facilitate an 150CC intake and exhaust, Like your current mouth is enough to swallow a small Idly completely
So if you directly plonk the 165CC block then assume you are trying to swallow a bigger sized Burger with the same Mouth. Offcourse Mouth cannot be drilled bigger, but you Bike's Porting can be and should be.
Also porting helps a lot in compression relaxation to your setup and there are hell a lot of benefits, but it would be steeper into technical aspects if I explain in detail.
For a better experience please do that first, coz everything should be at-least to near about precision for the setup to run perfectly.
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Something like that, there's a lot of controversy surrounding running in, try reading these articles.Originally posted by buggy View Postawesome , but they say new engine must be run in with mineral only to get best performance at later stages??
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
How to break in a new engine
they should be of some help/advice.Beware of Bread, don't say I didn't warn you!
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Bread has been proven to kill. Scientists have now uncovered alarming evidence that 100% of the people who eat bread will eventually die !
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@ buggy
It doesnt matter whatever oil base you use for this run-in, coz the internals beneath the Crankcase are well seated after your current odo reading. Only the Bore Piston is the new comer.
So I would recommend not to change the current oil (If its still usable for a 1000Kms) or to use a same grade Mineral oil which is very cheaper and will sure withstand until the run-in.
Later after run in use oil flusher and switch over to 300V.
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ok cool thats good enough for me thenOriginally posted by abhijeet080808 View PostYes, that is what is said, but I did this after permission from Joel. And, no performance issue from my side.
thanks man, allthough i do kno abt the motoman`s method.Originally posted by stefanm View PostSomething like that, there's a lot of controversy surrounding running in, try reading these articles.
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
How to break in a new engine
they should be of some help/advice.
yup will do, for now ill do the run-in in the 5100 then upgrade i guess..Originally posted by HarishK View Post@ buggy
It doesnt matter whatever oil base you use for this run-in, coz the internals beneath the Crankcase are well seated after your current odo reading. Only the Bore Piston is the new comer.
So I would recommend not to change the current oil (If its still usable for a 1000Kms) or to use a same grade Mineral oil which is very cheaper and will sure withstand until the run-in.
Later after run in use oil flusher and switch over to 300V.Three things tell a man: his eyes, his friends and his BIKE
aka AKSHAYsigpic
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I did ask Joel. He replied saying, that it's okay.Originally posted by Boon View PostI think you should go for the headwork too...It will make your bike a lot smoother...
Why dont you ask JOEL?He will give you a precise explanation.
No problem in the long run.------------------------------------------------
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Hey Sharan do as joel says man.Originally posted by Sharan_R View PostI did ask Joel. He replied saying, that it's okay.
No problem in the long run.
I used the big bore without head work . And it worked awesome. The bike was doing 130 without crouching ( true speed on gps ).
Guys seeing this thread .
My take. The big bore needs a good run in. And you need to do your part and maintain ( oil , coolant levels and make sure you don't abuse the bike until the run in is complete ) i had done a runin of close to 1500 kms and after that the bike was really a bullet. I had to get back to the 150cc form as i had to use the bike for doing bangy pune and bangy mangy runs regularly.Converting Halogen / HID headlamp setups to FULL LED.
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Thanks for your input!Originally posted by navnish View PostHey Sharan do as joel says man.
I used the big bore without head work . And it worked awesome. The bike was doing 130 without crouching ( true speed on gps ).
Guys seeing this thread .
My take. The big bore needs a good run in. And you need to do your part and maintain ( oil , coolant levels and make sure you don't abuse the bike until the run in is complete ) i had done a runin of close to 1500 kms and after that the bike was really a bullet. I had to get back to the 150cc form as i had to use the bike for doing bangy pune and bangy mangy runs regularly.
And why did you switch back? What was the problem with the long runs?------------------------------------------------
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i had an issue. As the bikes power was good I use to push the bike to the limits . Use to red line the bike for continuously 300 kms + all the time. I had heating issues with my bike due to this. I am very careless when it comes to maintenance of the bike and never pampered the bike at all. My oil change intervals are crazy some times i dont even change oil. Which is bad i know but I never get time. Too much of things at a time . If i get time i will always get back to the big bore as the power delivery is awesome. I felt that i dont need so much power while touring .Originally posted by Sharan_R View PostThanks for your input!
And why did you switch back? What was the problem with the long runs?
For the street use the big bore kit is awesome . For touring its a different ball game that's what i feel.
My mod
Last edited by navnish; 08-23-2011, 01:42 PM.Converting Halogen / HID headlamp setups to FULL LED.
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Nope. The bike heats up a lot when u do 300km + in a stretch.i never got the engine warning light . I always felt the bike heating too much and even on high speeds the fan use to kick in. With the stock ecu the bike runs lean in high RPMS. (I have a O2 sensor running on my bike ) the stock map on the ecu is going to be the same even if you change the CO2 settings. Best bet will be to go in for joels ecu with the big bore this should solve the lean running issue as the map will be tuned for performance as per the CC.Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post^^ You mean, the engine check light came ON while touring for longer distances?
@shahdupeshkhan
I read your post saying "THE CO MAPPING done to compensate for lean fueling." I have a question here how did you do this on a stock ecu ??
If you have just changed the CO2 with a FID . How did you manage to change the fueling on high rpms
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+1Originally posted by navnish View Post@shahdupeshkhan
I read your post saying "THE CO MAPPING done to compensate for lean fueling." I have a question here how did you do this on a stock ecu ??
If you have just changed the CO2 with a FID . How did you manage to change the fueling on high rpms
And I want to know what exact changes he made to the RC ECU to resolve some of the issues that Harish had with it!--------------------------------
Own:
2009 Yamaha YZF-R15
2009 Ford Fiesta 1.6S
--------------------------------
Fuel Your Motoring Passion!
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@ KwokFist
Actually I am using Joel's ECU with a custom Map and yes shahdupeshkhan did do some changes to the Stock ECU, but still I felt the bike runs lean to a mild extent.
Also No mileage dip between Stock and Joel's ECU, But one big difference between both is the Performance,
In Joel's ECU, due to precise fuel supply, the Bike pulls madly at any RPM.
In Stock ECU, nothing interesting.
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I did do a 200+ kms trip on the big bore. While I agree on the lean part, especially over 8k rpm and below 4k rpm (my guess!), I did not find any unusual heating as such.Originally posted by navnish View PostNope. The bike heats up a lot when u do 300km + in a stretch.i never got the engine warning light . I always felt the bike heating too much and even on high speeds the fan use to kick in. With the stock ecu the bike runs lean in high RPMS. (I have a O2 sensor running on my bike ) the stock map on the ecu is going to be the same even if you change the CO2 settings. Best bet will be to go in for joels ecu with the big bore this should solve the lean running issue as the map will be tuned for performance as per the CC.Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!
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