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  • Yes, that is what is said, but I did this after permission from Joel. And, no performance issue from my side.
    Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!

    Comment


    • @ Sharan_R

      Bro, Please ship your Cylinder Head alone first to Joel and get the Porting done for your Setup (I mean FFE + 165CC Block + Air Filter) which is unique and changes according to the combinations.

      Finally get all the Goodies, with your Ported Head and assemble your bike.

      I will explain it in Layman words,

      Your bike is 150CC now and all ports are tuned precisely to facilitate an 150CC intake and exhaust, Like your current mouth is enough to swallow a small Idly completely

      So if you directly plonk the 165CC block then assume you are trying to swallow a bigger sized Burger with the same Mouth. Offcourse Mouth cannot be drilled bigger, but you Bike's Porting can be and should be.


      Also porting helps a lot in compression relaxation to your setup and there are hell a lot of benefits, but it would be steeper into technical aspects if I explain in detail.

      For a better experience please do that first, coz everything should be at-least to near about precision for the setup to run perfectly.
      https://www.facebook.com/harishtheboss

      Comment


      • Originally posted by buggy View Post
        awesome , but they say new engine must be run in with mineral only to get best performance at later stages??
        Something like that, there's a lot of controversy surrounding running in, try reading these articles.


        Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

        How to break in a new engine

        they should be of some help/advice.
        Beware of Bread, don't say I didn't warn you!
        More than 98 percent of convicted criminals are bread eaters !
        Statistics show that more than 75 % of violent crimes are committed within 24 hours of eating bread !
        Bread is known to be extremely addictive. Subjects deprived of bread and given only water, actually begged for bread after just two days !
        Bread has been proven to kill. Scientists have now uncovered alarming evidence that 100% of the people who eat bread will eventually die !

        Comment


        • @ buggy

          It doesnt matter whatever oil base you use for this run-in, coz the internals beneath the Crankcase are well seated after your current odo reading. Only the Bore Piston is the new comer.

          So I would recommend not to change the current oil (If its still usable for a 1000Kms) or to use a same grade Mineral oil which is very cheaper and will sure withstand until the run-in.

          Later after run in use oil flusher and switch over to 300V.
          https://www.facebook.com/harishtheboss

          Comment


          • Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post
            Yes, that is what is said, but I did this after permission from Joel. And, no performance issue from my side.
            ok cool thats good enough for me then

            Originally posted by stefanm View Post
            Something like that, there's a lot of controversy surrounding running in, try reading these articles.


            Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

            How to break in a new engine

            they should be of some help/advice.
            thanks man, allthough i do kno abt the motoman`s method.

            Originally posted by HarishK View Post
            @ buggy

            It doesnt matter whatever oil base you use for this run-in, coz the internals beneath the Crankcase are well seated after your current odo reading. Only the Bore Piston is the new comer.

            So I would recommend not to change the current oil (If its still usable for a 1000Kms) or to use a same grade Mineral oil which is very cheaper and will sure withstand until the run-in.

            Later after run in use oil flusher and switch over to 300V.
            yup will do, for now ill do the run-in in the 5100 then upgrade i guess..
            Three things tell a man: his eyes, his friends and his BIKE


            aka AKSHAYsigpic

            Comment




            • what if we get only the big bore done
              ND NO PORTing ?
              how will it effect ?
              and
              what exactly is porting
              can anyone please explain in detail
              ive read many sites
              but couldnt get any idea about it
              so please someone say about porting
              and how it helps with the big bore
              FaceBook Id - Phaneendra Ch

              http://https://www.facebook.com/MightyDoc

              Comment


              • Originally posted by Boon View Post
                I think you should go for the headwork too...It will make your bike a lot smoother...
                Why dont you ask JOEL?He will give you a precise explanation.
                I did ask Joel. He replied saying, that it's okay.
                No problem in the long run.
                ------------------------------------------------

                Comment


                • Originally posted by Sharan_R View Post
                  I did ask Joel. He replied saying, that it's okay.
                  No problem in the long run.
                  Hey Sharan do as joel says man.

                  I used the big bore without head work . And it worked awesome. The bike was doing 130 without crouching ( true speed on gps ).

                  Guys seeing this thread .
                  My take. The big bore needs a good run in. And you need to do your part and maintain ( oil , coolant levels and make sure you don't abuse the bike until the run in is complete ) i had done a runin of close to 1500 kms and after that the bike was really a bullet. I had to get back to the 150cc form as i had to use the bike for doing bangy pune and bangy mangy runs regularly.
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                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by navnish View Post
                    Hey Sharan do as joel says man.

                    I used the big bore without head work . And it worked awesome. The bike was doing 130 without crouching ( true speed on gps ).

                    Guys seeing this thread .
                    My take. The big bore needs a good run in. And you need to do your part and maintain ( oil , coolant levels and make sure you don't abuse the bike until the run in is complete ) i had done a runin of close to 1500 kms and after that the bike was really a bullet. I had to get back to the 150cc form as i had to use the bike for doing bangy pune and bangy mangy runs regularly.
                    Thanks for your input!

                    And why did you switch back? What was the problem with the long runs?
                    ------------------------------------------------

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Sharan_R View Post
                      Thanks for your input!

                      And why did you switch back? What was the problem with the long runs?
                      i had an issue. As the bikes power was good I use to push the bike to the limits . Use to red line the bike for continuously 300 kms + all the time. I had heating issues with my bike due to this. I am very careless when it comes to maintenance of the bike and never pampered the bike at all. My oil change intervals are crazy some times i dont even change oil. Which is bad i know but I never get time. Too much of things at a time . If i get time i will always get back to the big bore as the power delivery is awesome. I felt that i dont need so much power while touring .

                      For the street use the big bore kit is awesome . For touring its a different ball game that's what i feel.

                      My mod
                      Last edited by navnish; 08-23-2011, 01:42 PM.
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                      • ^^ You mean, the engine check light came ON while touring for longer distances?
                        Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post
                          ^^ You mean, the engine check light came ON while touring for longer distances?
                          Nope. The bike heats up a lot when u do 300km + in a stretch.i never got the engine warning light . I always felt the bike heating too much and even on high speeds the fan use to kick in. With the stock ecu the bike runs lean in high RPMS. (I have a O2 sensor running on my bike ) the stock map on the ecu is going to be the same even if you change the CO2 settings. Best bet will be to go in for joels ecu with the big bore this should solve the lean running issue as the map will be tuned for performance as per the CC.

                          @shahdupeshkhan
                          I read your post saying "THE CO MAPPING done to compensate for lean fueling." I have a question here how did you do this on a stock ecu ??
                          If you have just changed the CO2 with a FID . How did you manage to change the fueling on high rpms
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                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by navnish View Post
                            @shahdupeshkhan
                            I read your post saying "THE CO MAPPING done to compensate for lean fueling." I have a question here how did you do this on a stock ecu ??
                            If you have just changed the CO2 with a FID . How did you manage to change the fueling on high rpms
                            +1

                            And I want to know what exact changes he made to the RC ECU to resolve some of the issues that Harish had with it!
                            --------------------------------
                            Own:
                            2009 Yamaha YZF-R15
                            2009 Ford Fiesta 1.6S

                            --------------------------------
                            Fuel Your Motoring Passion!

                            Comment


                            • @ KwokFist

                              Actually I am using Joel's ECU with a custom Map and yes shahdupeshkhan did do some changes to the Stock ECU, but still I felt the bike runs lean to a mild extent.

                              Also No mileage dip between Stock and Joel's ECU, But one big difference between both is the Performance,

                              In Joel's ECU, due to precise fuel supply, the Bike pulls madly at any RPM.

                              In Stock ECU, nothing interesting.
                              https://www.facebook.com/harishtheboss

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by navnish View Post
                                Nope. The bike heats up a lot when u do 300km + in a stretch.i never got the engine warning light . I always felt the bike heating too much and even on high speeds the fan use to kick in. With the stock ecu the bike runs lean in high RPMS. (I have a O2 sensor running on my bike ) the stock map on the ecu is going to be the same even if you change the CO2 settings. Best bet will be to go in for joels ecu with the big bore this should solve the lean running issue as the map will be tuned for performance as per the CC.
                                I did do a 200+ kms trip on the big bore. While I agree on the lean part, especially over 8k rpm and below 4k rpm (my guess!), I did not find any unusual heating as such.
                                Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!

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