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  • #91
    Originally posted by FZERIDER View Post
    it will b more fast that does not mean the top speed will increase....the fact is in ur stock u reach 153kmph.. After mods u will reach the same much much faster
    ^^^ Not true... essentially there are 2 options if you want to increase top speed (provided your engine is making enough torque, which the big bore will help create)... the first choice is to change the gearing... and if you do not/ cannot change the gearing then the rev ceiling needs to go up... with stock gearing and stock rev ceiling you can only achieve stock top speeds... there is no getting around it... do some calculations... your stock bike on stock gearing and stock rev ceiling cannot reach 153 kmph... its a speedo error...
    Last edited by abhimanyu31; 05-21-2011, 04:35 PM.
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    • #92
      Originally posted by abhimanyu31 View Post
      ^^^ Not true... essentially there are 2 options if you want to increase top speed (provided your engine is making enough torque, which the big bore will help create)... the first choice is to change the gearing... and if you do not/ cannot change the gearing then the rev ceiling needs to go up... with stock gearing and stock rev ceiling you can only achieve stock top speeds... there is no getting around it... do some calculations... your stock bike on stock gearing and stock rev ceiling cannot reach 153 kmph... its a speedo error...
      ya that is taken. I'm aware the digital speedo has some errors. And i was also thinking the same that with the upgrades maybe i'll have access to upgrade to even taller gearing ratio, resulting in better top speed. But is there a higher ratio than stock available? The only one i can think of is changing the front sprocket to a 15 teeth over the stock 14. But i don't think we have any sprocket that comes as a direct fit having greater than 15 teeth nor can i remember of any rear sprocket having less than 36 teeth, which we have stock. Please shed some light.

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      • #93
        A small update

        Its been 2000km/40 days with the ffe with db killer,finally removed the latter.The difference is amazing.Low end torque though has improved by only a fraction but the mid range and top end has improved a lot especially after 4000rpm the character of the bike changes completely. Throttle response has improved quite a lot.The engine revs more freely and effortlessly.Now waiting for the head job and the big bore.

        So how effective is the db killer?

        i would say its quite effective for daily commuting,but if one needs real performance the db killer should be removed so as to bring out the real potential,as i felt the db killer while cutting down the sound also hampers the performance.
        Socha Toh Locha.

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        • #94
          Exactly, mid range is where the real difference is and I am loving it. It has become easier to roll on from say 80-120 or 60-100 kmph now. Even I am looking for a chance to get the head reworked. Should make it even more fun to commute
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          • #95
            Originally posted by velociraptor13 View Post
            Its been 2000km/40 days with the ffe with db killer,finally removed the latter.The difference is amazing.Low end torque though has improved by only a fraction but the mid range and top end has improved a lot especially after 4000rpm the character of the bike changes completely. Throttle response has improved quite a lot.The engine revs more freely and effortlessly.Now waiting for the head job and the big bore.

            So how effective is the db killer?

            i would say its quite effective for daily commuting,but if one needs real performance the db killer should be removed so as to bring out the real potential,as i felt the db killer while cutting down the sound also hampers the performance.
            Thatz great news.
            PULSAR 180 DTSI- 2007
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            • #96
              Originally posted by abhimanyu31 View Post
              ^^^ not true... Essentially there are 2 options if you want to increase top speed (provided your engine is making enough torque, which the big bore will help create)... The first choice is to change the gearing... And if you do not/ cannot change the gearing then the rev ceiling needs to go up... With stock gearing and stock rev ceiling you can only achieve stock top speeds... There is no getting around it... Do some calculations... Your stock bike on stock gearing and stock rev ceiling cannot reach 153 kmph... Its a speedo error...
              stock 220f reaches 153kmph... If u r on a slope in crouching position and drafting behind car....

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              • #97
                Originally posted by Raneet View Post
                ya that is taken. I'm aware the digital speedo has some errors. And i was also thinking the same that with the upgrades maybe i'll have access to upgrade to even taller gearing ratio, resulting in better top speed. But is there a higher ratio than stock available? The only one i can think of is changing the front sprocket to a 15 teeth over the stock 14. But i don't think we have any sprocket that comes as a direct fit having greater than 15 teeth nor can i remember of any rear sprocket having less than 36 teeth, which we have stock. Please shed some light.
                I really don't know if there are any after market sprockets available for Pulsar or not... not looked into it as I have never owned a Pulsar... luckily for R15 there is a aftermarket gearing kit available from Daytona and there are after market sprockets available... as far as gearing calculations are concerned, you could do it the old fashion way (which is what I prefer) or try the following site Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator

                Originally posted by FZERIDER View Post
                stock 220f reaches 153kmph... If u r on a slope in crouching position and drafting behind car....
                Like I said... do some calculations... you cannot get around the laws of physics... ask yourself the following question: for your bike to reach a true 153 kmph what does the engine speed (rpm) need to be???... then ask yourself if you are attaining those engine speed... whether you accept it or not, laws of physics do not make exceptions of anyone...
                Only a biker knows why a dog sticks his head out of a car window.

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                • #98
                  Hi
                  To all those who have fitted joel's FFE.
                  I am not asking for performance figures, i have read all the previous posts. I am asking from a practicality perspective.
                  1. In the 220 we suffer from extremely low ground clearance. Is the FFE placed any lower than the stock exhaust?
                  2. Is the can height of the FFE any higher than the stock exhaust? I ask this because I use cramster saddle bags, and i would not want my exhaust to be to close to the bags.

                  A reply would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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                  • #99
                    I'll clear your doubts myself,
                    1. ground clearance is good enough for you to seriously take it to even the Himalayas. The latest batch is higher.
                    2. Yes, you can easily carry your kit bag around without any issues. The clearance is over 2 inches over stock. Your exhaust and bag will be safe. I have considered the touring practicality as well.
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                    • Originally posted by Joel View Post
                      I'll clear your doubts myself,
                      1. ground clearance is good enough for you to seriously take it to even the Himalayas. The latest batch is higher.
                      2. Yes, you can easily carry your kit bag around without any issues. The clearance is over 2 inches over stock. Your exhaust and bag will be safe. I have considered the touring practicality as well.
                      we face a common problem with stock exhaust, that is the main stand scraps the ground while cornering or taking on a speed breaker with a pillion. So when you're saying the ground clearance is 2 inches higher than stock, does that also mean the stand no more scrapping the roads?

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                      • Originally posted by Raneet View Post
                        we face a common problem with stock exhaust, that is the main stand scraps the ground while cornering or taking on a speed breaker with a pillion. So when you're saying the ground clearance is 2 inches higher than stock, does that also mean the stand no more scrapping the roads?
                        I might not be the one to reply but just curious.How can the Exhaust and the Center Stand be co related?AFAIK the stock p220's stand scraping has nothing to do with the exhaust.
                        "ground clearance is 2 inches higher than stock" I believe Joel meant that the FFE has 2 inches higher GC than the stock exhaust.
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                        • Originally posted by RanjithMN View Post
                          I might not be the one to reply but just curious.How can the Exhaust and the Center Stand be co related?AFAIK the stock p220's stand scraping has nothing to do with the exhaust.
                          "ground clearance is 2 inches higher than stock" I believe Joel meant that the FFE has 2 inches higher GC than the stock exhaust.
                          yes he meant the height of the lowest part of the exhaust is 2 inches higher than the stock. And regarding your query, well if you notice closely, the stand rubber is attached to a wielded support on the exhaust muffler. When the main stand is in the closed position, a part of the main stand makes contact with the stand rubber. And since the wielding on the exhaust that supports the stand is quite low on height, the main stand tip doesn't get much of a lift. As a result, when cornering or taking on bumps, it scraps the ground. Mine scraps less as i got irc tires which is round profile compared to mrf as a result the ride height is a bit more in my case. But that difference is not too much. My stands still scrap the road quite often. Try putting your ride on side stand and observe. You'll understand.
                          Last edited by Raneet; 05-25-2011, 04:38 AM.

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                          • as the ffe doesent have the centre stand stopper the stand rests on the exhaust,hence the ground clearence has improved,that means no more scrapping even with my weight(105kg).The only grouse thing i felt is the stand banging on the exhaust every time when the stand retracts.
                            Last edited by velociraptor13; 05-25-2011, 12:01 PM.
                            Socha Toh Locha.

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                            • Originally posted by abhimanyu31 View Post
                              Like I said... do some calculations... you cannot get around the laws of physics... ask yourself the following question: for your bike to reach a true 153 kmph what does the engine speed (rpm) need to be???... then ask yourself if you are attaining those engine speed... whether you accept it or not, laws of physics do not make exceptions of anyone...
                              Are top speed and RPM related in any way? Are you saying if we could make P220 engine rev to 13k revs, it will cross 150km/hr true speed with the same amount of power at rear wheel? AFAIK A higher revving engine dont need to be faster. Top-end depends on power at rear wheel and not the speed of engine.

                              Law of physics:
                              "Every body remains in a state of constant velocity unless acted upon by an external unbalanced force.
                              Now look at the situation FZERIDER Mentioned. The rider is drafting behind a car on a slope. As the vehicle is on a slope, it will require less power to surge ahead and the car in front is reducing drag because of which that bike dont need to fight much against the "external force" called wind. Hence, it is able to achieve higher speeds.

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                              • Originally posted by riot View Post
                                Are top speed and RPM related in any way? Are you saying if we could make P220 engine rev to 13k revs, it will cross 150km/hr true speed with the same amount of power at rear wheel? AFAIK A higher revving engine dont need to be faster. Top-end depends on power at rear wheel and not the speed of engine.

                                Law of physics:
                                "Every body remains in a state of constant velocity unless acted upon by an external unbalanced force.
                                Now look at the situation FZERIDER Mentioned. The rider is drafting behind a car on a slope. As the vehicle is on a slope, it will require less power to surge ahead and the car in front is reducing drag because of which that bike dont need to fight much against the "external force" called wind. Hence, it is able to achieve higher speeds.
                                Ok, you realise the engine speed and wheel speed are related in a fixed ratio. Like if wheel rotates 1 time, the engine rotates 'n' times irrespective of the drag, temperature, wind force, time of the day and other unrelated parameters. Only parameter that is relevant is the gearing - in this case, its fixed.

                                Hence, to achieve a particular wheel speed (say 150kmph) the engine will need to rotate at a particular speed (say 12k rpm). This is the law of physics being referred to here. Now, if the calculated rpm is above the redline, it will not be achieved on engine power. It will be achieved only if some external forces powers the engine and causes the engine to rev above the redline. Such forces may be gravity (riding downhill) or tail wind.
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