Yeah, i think i should hold my horses for sometime. But seriously bro, you cant control the adrenaline rush. I went into overdrive again today
albeit for 4 seconds and its already triple digits on the ODO.
From now on there would be no ripping hard until 500km.

Interesting thing i would like to share here is that i took out the spark plug today and saw that the center electrode is clean but the ground
electrode and the thread end are covered in soot.

Also there is popping sound while deceleration. I know both these are contradictory situations. Gotta look into them asap.

P.S. I would urge the newbies and noobs to please not take this as a precedent. Everything i am doing is in a controlled manner and with my full
understanding and knowledge. Please dont take this as a lesson and rip out your new bikes. Period.


Hi,

The updates are already being discussed here sans mileage. For the record i am not concerned about the mileage and thats why
i have not updated about it.

But yes that is also an indication of the engine tune and so I would do exclusive mileage run-ins for YOU and other mileage junta soon.
No offence to anyone please. Will post it here as and when i do it. I promise. Is that ok now.

The above mentioned people are probably enjoying their ride. They haven't been active for long here.

cheers...

That's coz of the limitations with the stock BS 26, Carburetor you are seeing variations in your spark plug reading according to my understanding. may be other senior riders can give in a better perspective. Hope you get the new 29mm CV Carb soon, the acceleration will be then linear and indeed brute.

I understand the impatience with finishing off the run-in and then go crazy on your ride. However, as a safe approach i would suggest that you follow the 2k run-in method. Post 1k, have your fun but don't wring the throttle hard. Post 2k just go insane . With the tighter tolerances, the idea is that your engine is slowly introduced to the world of red lining and we remove every chance of anything going wrong during this whole process. That would be my way of looking at things.

The slight popping sound from the FFE is normal... mine does more!!

@All: When i do finish my build and complete my run-in, with the help of Abimanyu31 & Joelkraju i intend to do the speed runs with a GUI video output on it like the sample video below:



The data telemetry from GTECH RR FANATIC would be displayed right below the video so that Noobs can understand the parameters easily. We can also display RPM meter and G Force meter a rider gets to witness when doing the run on the video. The MPH Reading can be converted to KMPH.

Although this would be a trial and error thing so i am not sure how far would i be successful making one such video.. but do tell me guys, do you want drag time videos like this or just normal speed run video and then screen shots of graphs of HP Gains,torque, 0-100 timings?


Do let me know..

Cheers,

Mix them up, Though its great (for me personally) to see "live" telemetry if you can't see the speedo.

That what me too thinks of the stock carb even after up jetting.....i am in the process of getting that 29mmCV.....
Its just taking some time coz of other commitments. I am trying to be patient and gun for the 2k run-in mark.

And it is good if you do the speed runs the GUI way. It would be more safe i think, dont know.

Hey MIK...by that do you mean i need to get the air inlet from the inlet hose to the outlet in the carb????

P.S. Lucky Luke seems oblivious from this thread....havent seen him since the first day.

Helllooooooo! Here I am!
I have been following that thread, but also the FZ16 etc. "tech" talk, where I have spent some time, the Joelled R15 (nonsense!) discussions....and I have to work....at times!

Well, at least I shall respond to your query about the "air inlet from the inlet hose to the outlet in the carb"

You will see that there is a little pipe connected to the intake maniflod, right after the carb. There is also a pipe that comes out of the air-box. What you will no see is a hole in the exhaust port right after the valve, which connects insde the cylinder head to a pipe from the rocker cover. All these pipes connect together to a valve situated under the gas tank, forward. The role of this valve is to allow extra air from the air-box into the exhaust port to help finishing the combustion of non burnt valves, this for pollution control. The action of this valve is controlled by the depression in the intake manifold, which it opens when there is a high depression, meaning when closing throttle.
If that system does not work there will be (more) unburnt gases in the exhaust, that will do this popping sound.

Hey...nice to see you....sorry didnt know about your endeavor in the tech talk thread up until now...
So i was teasing you in light vein...

Thanks for the wonderful explanation of my stupidly posed question....i will try to get that done.
Lets see how it goes....also today did a small 300km ride and the flat spot seems to have gotten worse..
So i am still thinking for a temporary solution until i get the bigger carb...

cheers...

Is there a drastic change with the weather and temperatures in and around your place?? Usually makes the flat spot problems more evident. BTW could you please dish out the Main jet and pilot jet specifications you changed to in order to power your souped up ride?

Cheers,

There has been no significant change in the weather here....i get your point.
I shall check again tomorrow....not riding enough coz of workload.

The main jet has been changed to size 115 from the stock 112.5 and the pilot remains the same.
So i guess there-in lies the problem....maybe cant do nothing about the pilot...
it is very very hard sourcing the pilot jet. its easy to search for GOD in you room than this.

cheers....

Re: The POWERHOUSE Fz18

@shiv: really want a 0 to 100 acceleration video. :-D
Stock fz takes 16-17 secs to reach 100 but saw a joelled fz reaching there under 9 sec, that's some serious power upgrade.

Sent from my WT19i using Tapatalk 2

@ Novice what's the ODO man. Get the updates regularly. Hope everything is ok with you

Hi, didnt ride the bike since last few days. Increased workload. Phew.
Today just rode the bike for a short distance to get a haircut.

What i observed was that the bike starts at the first crank.
And then if i OFF it and try to start again, it takes 3-4 more cranks.

Now is this a CDI issue or standard engine behaviour??
Generally speaking how do i check if the CDI is functioning properly?

Cuz i still haven't done anything about the flat spot between 2-4k rpm.
Also the flat spot is more pronounced when the engine heats up a bit.

cheers...

I think starting with one crank and getting off and again taking 3-4 cranks to restart is normal behaviour. It also happens to me once in a blue moon and when the bike was new it was happening all day and when I set the idle to 1.4k then it vanished but it happens once in a while. Maybe it happened to you because bike was not ridden for few days.

Just try to take the bike everyday and see if it continues.

What's the mileage and what's the ODO, is there any difference now?

I have already posted the reason on the 1st page "questionnaire" post on this thread (Updating things as i remember!!) It is normal. Once you finish your run in and fill-in semi-synthetic/FS oil the problem will be lesser. Just apply a slight throttle when starting, it should crank easily then. As you continue to clock miles the piston rings are slowly getting chipped off to the correct tolerance levels.

If CDI is not working, your engine simply won't start as far as i can remember.

If you go by Mik's advice, change the mineral oil and the oil filter at say 500 kms to get rid of the extra "imri" or metal particles and then at 1000 kms replace the engine oil to SS/FS oil and also replace the oil filter. Your engine should ease up with cranking up to life more easily as well.

If you do so, please do click a pic of the spent oil in the collection bowl preferably in the sun light to see how much quantity of metal particles do you see in the oil..

Cheers,

Now that you mention it i kinda remember that the engine feels a little heavy while starting....

I think the reason being the tight tolerance between the piston and block.

Earlier it used to half rev and stop at the first crank.
Now its better than what it used to be at the time of the build.

Also will check out for uneven spark.

cheers...

Have a think about what you 2 both wrote above, It taking another 3-4 cranks.
Name the cycles the engine does.

There will be a big clue as to why your engine doesn't start on the first crank