My 1000th Post!!

Anyways, once you do install the 29MM CV Carburetor, do ask Joel, RC to advise you how to hotwire the CDI so that it always stays on "Aggressive Mode" and keeps the bike's acceleration brute. That should also bring about a drastic change with the way the power is delivered to your souped up ride. For Noobs: i shall explain this later.

Cheers,

You are referring to the TPS being locked at WOT?

Little bit difficult to explain will do so with the pics i am not well versed in this subject.. so let me steal some gyan/info from Joel and then will post the details. I remember him telling me that he has kept the TPS locked on Rylan's FZ 18. As a result the initial worry of the CDI working only on the base mode has been taken care of.

@N-o-v-i-c-e: Still awaiting for the post mate

Cheers,

Hi Shiv

What's your update man? Did you send the head for porting? Did you get your things by courier. Also I'm seeing some guy named "summer" is also getting his bike joelled by the end of this month. Will set this thread on fire!

The ship has started sailing!!

@Jonahmano: I am still out of station so i guess it will have to wait.. Funny thing is i am getting inundated with a lot of FZ RC part related queries, most of them not active either on the ownership or this thread! So trust me there are a lot of silent people behind the scenes who will soon join the world of hot roding.

@All: The first lot of RC parts Shipment (BB Kit, Air Filter, Mild Cam & Stiffer Clutch Springs) for my FZX-RC is leaving today from Blore. So trust me guys, I am indeed getting impatient to reach Mumbai at the earliest. However, till i finish my pending work it will be a while till i can get my hands on them..

The final lot (29mm CV Carburetor) will be shipped to me along with my ride's tuned head, the moment i am able to ship the stock head to RC first.

Had a quick chat with Joel, poor guy is busy with his trackdays racing commitments but was prompt enough to respond to my mails.

So now the waiting begins!! My expert mechanic is also anxious and excited to perform the "open heart surgery" on my ride along with his minions!!

So Gents do expect a lot of pics of the whole dismantling of my stock engine and a detailed blabbering on the same soon.. Till then..

To be continued...

Cheers,

I am sure there are, as I too get PMs on this and that modification, more power, etc...!

That is also why I think that Joel should get some assistance and separate his engineering, R&D, and race activities from the more trivial commercial and expedition of his goods. That guy is undeniably good but quite despairing too! Did you read that, mate?

How to clean Simota Free Flow Air Filter??

Info Courtesy: Abhimanyu31

So Noobs, i have been getting my inbox filled with this same query about how should one clean the Performance air filter??

Well both Simota stock replacement air filter and the 50MM Conical air filter are oil based type. I shall try and update this post with pics whenever i get to finish my build.

The cleaning process applies for both the replacement type and conical type air filter from Simota

STEP 1: Take the air filter out of your ride and using mild soap and water solution wash it gently to get rid of the dirt particles that have got trapped inside the filter. Rinse it with water and then wash it. Don't apply too much force while cleaning or you may end up damaging the filer

STEP 2: Let it dry completely. Buy a sasta/cheap mineral engine oil from any of he Petrol bunks and then oil the air filter generously. But don't over do it!! Apply just the amount which the filter would be able to soak. Wait for 10 mins. It will allow the extra oil trickle down which can be wiped with a cloth(Edited as the per the correction from the author in the post below!) It is imperative that you use fresh oil only and not used engine oil please!!

This 1 ltr bottle will last you more than a decade i guess!! One can also opt for Simota oil from the OEM company but then again it would be very expensive so the alternate way is mineral oil.

STEP 3: Put the air filter back to its respective place connected/installed in the bike

STEP 4: Resume belting!!

The cleaning interval for the replacement air filter can vary from 3000-5000 kms for extremely dusty and polluted city environment like in Mumbai, Rajasthan etc. and 10-15,000 kms for places with cleaner air. (10-15000 kms for place like Assam & Meghalaya where the air is cleaner, less or no dust and more cooler)

The conical air filter requires periodic cleaning between 1500-2500 kms as it is more exposed to the elements. (corrected as per the feedback from the author!! )

Good thing is it is a simple DIY (Do-It-Yourself) and can be performed at home. The only patience that one requires is to let the Air filter dry post cleaning and not be to harsh on it while cleaning it.

These air filters will outlast the life of the bike and probably you!!

Hope this helps..

Cheers,

You can put your newly cleaned filter "wet" with water onto your carb/airbox and let the engine draw air through it for a few minutes, effectively drying it, Though give it a few shakes before to remove excess water is advisable. Once dry give it a oil.
I find transmission oil (0wt) is more similar to the filter oil supplied with K&N and DNA filters. Easier to for the cotton to absorb.
I bought a filter "recharge" kit. It contains a detergent/solvent and oil, Both are the same size. These are fairly cheap and will last around 10+ washes, depending on how much detergent/solvent you use per wash.

If you are going into a known dusty, sandy type environment then simply get a old sock, slide it over your conical filter and secure it with a bit of string, elastic bands etc. This forms a outer barrier that will trap the larger bulk of impurities that would have otherwise clogged up your filter.
You just remove the bindings, slide the sock off and dispose of it. Slide on a newer and hopefully clean sock (I wouldn't want the engine breathing some peoples toxic foot odour) If you don't have a spare then give it a good shake, beat it against your tyre or a wall, then slip it back on, bind it back and continue.

The POWERHOUSE Fz18

^^^ just want to add couple of points:

1. Do not 'over' oil the filter element. Meaning do not use too much of oil. The filter element should be wet but not soaked with oil.

2. The second point is about service intervals. My personal experience is that the plane type air filter requires cleaning after 3,000 kms. This the maximum it can take before it looses it's effectiveness. It's not just about the clogging of the element with dirt, it's also to do with element drying up. For conical filter it should be every 1,500 kms.

@shiv, great tutorial.Next time when you do it pls take a video of the process and post so that it will be more clear with us.Still confused with the clean intervals. Will ask Joel specifically abou this

LOL

^^^ Thanks for the correction Abhimanyu31 shall edit the details in my earlier post.

@Jonahmano: Why are you confused all the time mate?

Jokes apart the above tutorial is based on real time experience with the product. So you are free to follow the advice. If you are planning to go for the replacement type filter... the cleaning interval is same as the stock.. so i don't think it is too much of a head ache for you to go through the process right.. other way round it will allow you to tinker around with you ride and understand her better if you are one of the types who loves dirty greasy hands to learn more about your machine!!

@Mik: Mate i don't understand your obsession with socks and that too smelly socks!!

Cheers,

Hey man just confused when you said 10-15k kms max and your guru Abhimanyu placed it some 3000 kms max. That's the interval confusion. Also do a favour to take video when you do a filter cleaning to your powerhouse FZ-18. Tomorrow I'm going to my friend to get my stock air-filter cleaned before leaving to Bangalore. If everything is ok and I get a chance then I will be taking video of that and post in the Fz-16 ownership thread.

1st Lot has arrived.

Hi All,

I have just received a good news from abhimanyu31 that the first lot of shipment has arrived in Mumbai. Below are extremely high resolution pics (courtesy abhimanyu31, and sorry about the big pic sizes) :

* 180cc Big Bore Kit: With 180cc Cylinder, Semi Forged Piston & Piston Rings


Pic No. 1: The Big Bore Cylinder Block top View

Pic No. 2: Big Bore Cylinder Side View

Pic No. 3: Semi Forged Piston Top View

Pic No. 4: Semi Forged Piston side view

* Mild Lift Camshaft


Pic No. 5 Mild Lift Semi grind Camshaft one side view

Pic No. 6: Mild Lift Semi grind Camshaft other side view

* Stock replacement Simota Air Filter


Pic No.7: Stock Replacement Simota Free Flow Air Filter

* Stiffer Clutch Springs


Pic No. 8: Stiffer Clutch Springs


So now the pending parts are:

* Tuned/ported Head and
* The 29mm CV Carb

Now these two will be done only after i somehow manage to run away from work and reach Mumbai to ship the stock head to Joel first.

I belive the pics are pretty much self explainatory however i would let expert abhimanyu31 to give his first hand inputs on the fit and finish of the product as he has physically seen and felt the product and did all the hard work to click the pics. I believe he is as excited as i am.

We are also waiting for abhimanyu31s insane mod, 180cc kit for his already souped up 165cc R16 as an extreme update. That will be a ninja Killer for sure!!


Cheers,

Guys, I'm planning to upgrade my exhaust and air filter. Could you please answer my below queries.

Whether FFE and stock replacement filter from RC need run-in period?
Whether current batch FFE comes with stainless steel?
How about increase in lower end torque and power since I'm a city rider?

Thanks in advance