Nice, so we will get to know the number difference between our stock and souped up machine.
I don't know Gtech and Go pro but would these be recording both the real time speed and speedometer indicated speed.
Although i am good with the actual GPS speed indicator.

Yesterday went to the SVC and told them to tune my bike.
I explained it to the service manager about the whole setup starting from when i contacted Joel to the time i fitted all the parts.
So even after much soft blabbering in front of him he was like 'Did you really need to do all this hot roding thing?'

I mean, really i was like, seen as the stupidest person standing in the SVC.
Although an informed guy inquired about Joel and took down the details.

So then the service manger did me a FAVOUR by asking a mechanic to tune it properly.
That is when i decided not to get the engine opened here for an inspection.
And so my search for a knowledgeable mechanic continues.

Meanwhile the SVC 'tuned' bike is performing worse now. FEELS like the internals have gone kaput.
The RPM takes time to come down after acceleration during riding but comes down normally when in neutral.
I don't understand this. This issue was present even before going to the SVC but is more pronounced now.

@shv18 @abhimanyu31 @Luke @MadMik
Now guys, can you tell me what is this phenomenon with the RPM.

cheers.....

Re: The POWERHOUSE Fz18

You don't take a Ferrari to get serviced at a backyard mechanic.
You take it to specialist.

You need to find a good mechanic so I wish you all the luck in finding one.

What carb are you running? If it's a CV then Is the diaphram still intact?

Is there something stopping or slowing the slide closing?

Is there a leak between your carb and cyl head? Spray some WD40 or similar NOT PETROL and listen for increase of RPM.

With the bike off put your ear as close to the carb and fully open the throttle and let it go. There should be a small slam as the slide shuts. Can you hear it actually slam shut? Or the butterfly close?

Is the throttle cable sticky? Mine still sticks at very slight throttle openings so I need to blip the throttle to close it. Try bliping the throttle and see if it drops the revs quicker.

Check the routing of the throttle cable and make sure it's not a factor.
Also get the throttle cable lubed.

Find out exactly what the mechanic did and ask him to undo it.

Sorry I'm not a tuner so I'm not going to give you advise on playing with AF's etc (I pay a tuner to do all that for me and then I have a little play for myself after)

Yes i really need luck in finding a good mechanic.

Bike is running on a BS29 CV carb. The diaphragm is still intact.

The throttle cable is not sticky and routing is good. Checked it.

Will have to test for any leaks and the slide closing correctly or not.

But the revs come down slowly only when the bike is running in gears and not when idling in neutral.
Thats what got me confused.

cheers...

I suggest getting in touch with Joel would help. I would recommend that you should get the glaswool level checked on your ride as it has been clearly mentioned at abhimanyu31's thread the kind of niggling troubles he had to go through to get the bike up and running by refilling the end can. I must add that before re-electro plating, when I had got the end can cap removed there was literally no glasswool left and also it was slowly reflecting on the FE coming down from 51 kmpl in sedate riding to 33 kmpl under same riding conditions.

Besides that, if you are still having tuning issues then may I suggest a crazy idea of riding her all the way down to Mumbai, staying here for a day, get everything checked at my favourite SVC, Kamla Yamaha including getting your carb tuned for stoichometric AFR using a Gas-O-Meter which the SVC has. The head mechanic has already worked on a couple of Tuned FZs and R15s so this is not alien to him.


Cheers,

Dear I'm also having same issues. Exactly like you. This problem started after changing the jet and slide position. Did you open up the carb or did it start suddenly. I'm also having same issues. In neutral, the babe has no problem with the revs. On high speeds the rev gets down very slowly. Please do mention here when you rectify this problem.

My friend had a similar problem where the slide won't close and he would be on "cruise control" for a few seconds until it did shut. To remedy this another spring was installed to give more downward force ensuring the slide shuts when the throttle is closed.
Check the spring tension and make sure its strong enough to close under high rpm. There is also a possibility that the air getting drawn in by the bigger engine may be causing the slide to stay open.
Luc is running a similar size carb so we shall wait for his input.

Even that crazy idea of riding down all the way to Mumbai seems plausible now. Maybe its a good idea to let the people who worked on such tuned machines have a look at it.

Sorry to know you are having the same problem. Now i am doubting something's up with the carb only.
I am trying hard here to get a knowledgeable person to work on my bike. Will keep posting here whatever turns up.

Thats what i am asking for. Who had some kinda experience with these situations.
So what you are suggesting is that one cause maybe the air getting drawn is keeping the slide open for a longer time. right?

If we add another spring and it does make this problem vanish then wont the engine be drawing less air in.
Sorry I dnot know that much technical.

@Luke - please chip in with your carb experience.

cheers...

The engine is sucking in air and keeping the slide open, The spring overcomes the incoming air and pushes down the slide.

I also have a similar problem on my PWK carb, at very little throttle openings (less than 1/8) when I am in peak hr traffic, riding around 20kph in 1st, If i shut the throttle, it keeps going. I have to blip the throttle open with clutch in upto 3-4-5k RPM before it will settle back down to idle.
I have re-routed, lubed, the cable, filed smooth the internal runners the slide runs on and it has gotten better slightly.

Also the weather will affect it. Rain/high humidity weather will cause your carb to act up.

Hot dry sunny days and its sweet, rainy, humid days and it sticks more than usual.

Well if it makes sense for you then i would suggest DO IT!! regardless rider Jonahmano has been kind enough to share how he got rid of the similar issue. Apparently on his bike, a nut was obstructing the clutch return spring from doing its job. As a result, when attempting WOT, the clutch would not disengage even after the user's constant inputs. He got that fixed and there and been no recurrence of the problem in his bike after that. So may be in your case too the clutch return mechanism is the culprit.

Mik' suggestion could be another possibility. I guess starting from these two should help you pinpoint the problem quickly.

One of the main reasons i chose CV carb over a Flat slide carb. It is bit too sensitive when it comes to sudden changes in weather and temperature so requires a bit of fiddling around. CV is a bit more stable and when tuned correctly works out better for my touring requirements. Same was suggested by Joel as per my requirements


Cheers

Today i went to meet a mechanic suggested by a friend. Unfortunately he was not available when i arrived.
So i returned cursing my luck for that and also as you'll know am not able to drive for long coz of my health.
The total distance was approx 40km to and fro. So each ride was of 20km.

One strange thing i noticed today was that after 15km ride at steady speed of 80-90km/hr, I stopped at a traffic signal.
In neutral gear RPM slowly reduced and the engine stopped.

My idle RPM is 1600 which is higher than normal i suppose. And ODO is 900km after the block transplant.

The story was the same till I reached home. The bike used to halt at every traffic signal i stopped.
Again the same, RPM decreases when in neutral or in gear with the clutch engaged.

This doesn't happen for short distance travel, say like 5-8 km ride.
All this time the engine felt rough and screamed like a 150cc bike above 4k rpm.
Not at all like the bike which has a 180cc block, ported head and a FFE, smooth and relaxed.

NOW i am a little worried. Is it that the block piston tolerance is still tight even after running 900km with mineral oil.

Hey Novice

My RPM issue is solved. It was the nut which was obstructing throttle return cable. As you know the new model fz's come with two throttle cables. One to open and one to close and when I fitted the 29mm CV carb, I had no facility to fix those two cables and also the TPS. So Joel's men cut the return cable and locked it at certain length. Somehow during carb tweaking the nut of the return cable got loose and the nut was obstructing the movement of the return cable but after pulling the nut up from hanging, the "RPM decreasing very slowly" issue got solved. I think it has something to do with the throttle cable or somewhere near the handle or in the carb itself. I think you need to do complete re-installation of the carb. Why don't you push the needle to position 1 for more blip to the throttle and good response?

About your RPM decreasing and engine stalling in your bike, I think it might be the tuning and AFR issue. I had this problem everyday during the first 250 kms but after changing the 115 size jet with 125 size, I think I didn't have these problems frequently but only once in bluemoon. My advice with experience for you is to search for the 117.5 size jet from Bajaj pulsar. But in the first place you must re-instal the carb and see that the needle position is on Position 1 for more fuel flow. My idle RPM is 1400 and I haven't seen engine dying down even after the bike gets very hot. I had 220km long ride with thorough ripping keeping 95-110 km/hr speeds few days ago and I had no problems with RPM level getting down and engine getting shut.

I don't think it has anything to do with the block rather tuning of the carb.

If you pay a visit to Mumbai soon once you are better may be i can help.

Cheers,

Mine is the older verrsion FZ with the single cable to carb. And i checked it and there's no other obstruction at present.
I tried to source the jets from Bajaj here but in vain. What size jets do you have which are not needed by you now???

I too think maybe the carb tuning is the only culprit here. But just suggested the new block ODO and the engine condition at present.

My only concern to pay a visit to Mumbai is that the travel would be close to a 150km continuous ride.

So the already shitty AFR ratio could ruin an already 'maybe' ruined engine block. Hence i am searching for a good tuner here and
after i exhaust that option i would be knocking at your home door.

cheers...

Carb and ported head here they come

Hi All,

FINALLY!! the two pieces: 29mm CV Carb and the head with altered port geometry work done and was collected from Joel today rider abhimanyu31, Blore. I am very greatful to him for taking the pains and personally receiving it from Joel. Now all i need are the new sets rocker arms and a few nuts and bolts for the new valve assembly to be sourced out by the SVC and then a monster shall be born soon!!

The 29mm CV carb will be shipped along with pre-installed 115 main jet and Joel has advised me to change the position of the needle to get the fueling right.. I am glad that i have access to Gas-O-Meter to get the tuning to stoichometric AFR along with the tuning spark plug to assist on the same. For the time being i will have to get the tuning done along with the stock exhaust as i am still indecisive about whether to opt for a Leo Vince GP Corsa Aluminium Grade FFE which is currently out of stock in Mumbai or else go for a stock replica FFE.

I will first get the speed run done of the stock bike and then post run in with New RC kits and stock exhaust. Final tests shall be conducted with the FFE on. So with 3 scenarios, i guess NOOBs and senior riders will get an idea about the actual gain in power with all the works done! After this the only thing left to get hold of will be the new CDI.

Just a recap; my new FZ-X, courtesy Joel Joseph, RC will have the following config:

* 182cc Big Bore kit with BB Cylinder and Piston and piston rings
* 29mm CV Carburetor with 115 jet size
* Simota Stock Replacement air filter
* Stock FZ engine head with Altered Port Geometry porting for better gas flow
* Stiffer clutch springs to reduce transmission loss
* New stock Valve assembly
* New stock cam bearing and inner bearing for the camshaft
* New stock Seals and Gaskets

The run-in shall be done with FS oil in my case.. so i shall report on it soon.

So Stay tuned folks.. something new and wild will happen very soon. I shall upload the speed run videos along with the graphics from the GPS data logger system along with the video..


Cheers,

From what I understand, Mik, you are not talking of a CV carb, but of one like your present one with direct control of the slide's position. On a CV carb, changing the characteristics of the spring would completely alter the way it self adjust to the depression, and would not function well at all. That should not be done.

From what I understand too (I am a bit slow perhaps ...) what "novice" experiences is a lack of engine braking. In neutral, when the engine is all "left to itself", it's all right but when in gear (and supposing moving: not just whit a gear engaged and clutch lever pulled!), the engine does not slow the bike, the weight of the bike keeping it moving forward more than what it used to. The only thing that can adjust this is the air screw. There is also, at the top of the carb, near the membrane/ depression chamber, a small air intake, but this is not adjustable.

Another, but not "normal" possibility, is effectively that the depression system does not work as it should: is the membrane good and it's chamber airtight? Is the slide moving up and down very freely as it should? Does the butterfly valve controlled by the throttle close completely and immediately when turning the handle? Has the needle been damaged, or it's position altered (something which should not be done unless knowing well what you're doing!)...???Or, very simply: is the carburetor clean, inside and outside, and it's various small air and fuel conduits unobstructed?

I effectively have a 29mm. CV carb, although with an even bigger capacity. It works absolutely fine, specially smoothly in traffic which I appreciate, but effectively does not give as much engine breaking as what a direct action one would, since the depression system normally does not allow the slide to close as suddenly as a direct action carb would. This is normal behavior, and I do not worry about it. I would be concerned if I had much "pop-pop" sound (which would mean unburnt fuel igniting in the exhaust), or is I was really feeling "on cruise control" (as Mik describes it) when I throttle down, but that is not the case.