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  • I am no expert but just thought of sharing a few ideas..

    Main jet mostly makes a difference post 2/3rd throttle to wide open throttle. Fuel screw, idling and needle setting comes into play for first 2/3rd throttle.

    In your previous post, you said there was popping while decelerating, which is a clear sign of running lean. You also mentioned with 15 size pilot jet, it always starts at first crank then it should be the correct size (Better not to use 17.5) Also you say there is a great improvement in performance with 117.5 main jet, so then that should be the correct size.

    Originally posted by N-o-v-i-c-e View Post
    Now the thing is if i ride the bike above 5-6k rpm and then slow down at a traffic signal then it dies by rpm slowly coming down.
    This is unlike the stock bike which used to idle at even higher rpm than usual.
    But if i ride her below 5k rpm then engine does not die when slowing at traffic signals
    I dont know what can explain this behaviour! Seems very weird.

    One thing would be to try out 15 pilot and 117.5 main jet again and get the fuel screw setting perfect. I guess you are familiar with setting fuel screw?? Just ensure the tacho doesnt fluctuate when you idle. I am sure you should be able to solve the issue with this.

    Also what does the spark plug reading say? Is it too black or too white? Get a new plug if the current one is quite old.
    Last edited by Adarsh_Bk; 04-16-2013, 12:47 AM.
    Ride hard.. Ride safe.. Always!

    S1000RR ownership experience

    You can also follow me on YouTube here

    Comment


    • Originally posted by N-o-v-i-c-e View Post
      Hi stefanm,

      I checked the spark plug cable and connector along with the electrical.
      The battery terminals have also been cleaned and air filter thoroughly cleaned including the AIS.

      After you telling me i kept the idle at around 1600 rpm.
      Now the thing is if i ride the bike above 5-6k rpm and then slow down at a traffic signal then it dies by rpm slowly coming down.
      This is unlike the stock bike which used to idle at even higher rpm than usual.
      But if i ride her below 5k rpm then engine does not die when slowing at traffic signals.

      Is the main jet the culprit here for allowing more fuel and eventually making it stop???
      But if that is so then i changed the main jet to size 115 from the above 117.5.
      Now the bike is woefully underpowered. So I am totally confused with the engine behavior here.

      And come on guys, I dont think stefanm is the only senior who is trying to help me out.
      Where are you other people now when I see you active in other threads of the same sub-forum. I cant hijack other threads.
      I am sure you guys have definitely come across similar situations.

      Cheers...
      Fuelling is dicey issue if you don't have related experience with carb systems tuning. its not as simple as swapping jets or adjusting the needle one or two notches. There is a very real possibility that you can make too many changes and really get lost along the way when you get conflicting readings. You will feel frustrated and wonder where you are going wrong. Unless you know a good tuner around who can do it for you based on experience and knowledge of your bike, you have no option but to follow the read - adjust - read process in step by step methodical manner.

      The first thing to do is to form a good baseline. This can be done by going back to stock settings and taking readings at increments of 500/ 1000 rpm in each gear and record the results of the readings. Once you have the readings you can identify the range in which the lean or rich peaks are. You will then need to make changes in increments and take readings across the range. Depending on the readings you may need to make changes to the needle, idle jet, main jet and or the air screw. It's a long drawn process the first few times but will get easier once the baseline gets refined.
      Only a biker knows why a dog sticks his head out of a car window.

      Multum in Parvo - Much in Little

      "Yes, it is FAST! No, you CAN'T ride it!" - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...a-300-san.html

      Comment


      • Originally posted by N-o-v-i-c-e View Post
        Hi stefanm,

        I checked the spark plug cable and connector along with the electrical.
        The battery terminals have also been cleaned and air filter thoroughly cleaned including the AIS.

        After you telling me i kept the idle at around 1600 rpm.
        Now the thing is if i ride the bike above 5-6k rpm and then slow down at a traffic signal then it dies by rpm slowly coming down.
        This is unlike the stock bike which used to idle at even higher rpm than usual.
        But if i ride her below 5k rpm then engine does not die when slowing at traffic signals.

        Is the main jet the culprit here for allowing more fuel and eventually making it stop???
        But if that is so then i changed the main jet to size 115 from the above 117.5.
        Now the bike is woefully underpowered. So I am totally confused with the engine behavior here.

        And come on guys, I dont think stefanm is the only senior who is trying to help me out.
        Where are you other people now when I see you active in other threads of the same sub-forum. I cant hijack other threads.
        I am sure you guys have definitely come across similar situations.

        Cheers...
        As you're in Pune, you can try either of the following combo's, change your spark plug to a higher number (i.e if it's a 6, put a 7) of the same size, just a normal one (around Rs50) and either fill with speed 97 or retard your timing by 4 degree's, then report back, also be careful where you fill fuel, if you're outside city limits you may get a lower octane, if you're inside then only fill at a trusted place, adulteration is common and wide spread, i've had a few bad experiences filling diesel in Pune.
        Beware of Bread, don't say I didn't warn you!
        More than 98 percent of convicted criminals are bread eaters !
        Statistics show that more than 75 % of violent crimes are committed within 24 hours of eating bread !
        Bread is known to be extremely addictive. Subjects deprived of bread and given only water, actually begged for bread after just two days !
        Bread has been proven to kill. Scientists have now uncovered alarming evidence that 100% of the people who eat bread will eventually die !

        Comment


        • Originally posted by Fazer89 View Post
          Hi Luke/Shv18/Johnmao,

          If you remove the camshaft from the equation. How would you rate the big bore kit from Joel (Race Concepts).

          A carb without TPS also seems unreliable.

          Any inputs / Advice ?

          Regards,
          Rohan
          I must say I'm mighty impressed with the RC Big Bore Camshaft and Racing Clutch spring to say the least.
          The cams noise can be annoying to some but I'm living with it.
          Regarding the TPS you can lock the TPS like how MadMik has done so that there wont be any engine check light showing up
          COLOUR ME CARZY CUSTOMS
          http://www.facebook.com/CMCCustoms?fref=ts


          Yamaha Fz-S Ft Race Concepts
          http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...aked-bull.html

          Comment


          • Originally posted by N-o-v-i-c-e View Post
            Hi...

            Tried that too...kept the idle between 1600-1800 rpm. Even then the results were same.
            Engine used to die after a short ride also.
            There no need to keep the idle at 1600-1800 rpm.
            I'm on RC cam and my rpm is in stock position.
            You need to get the carb tuned ASAP.
            Btw I'm on 117.5 main jet and the pilot jet and needle position is at stock position itself.
            COLOUR ME CARZY CUSTOMS
            http://www.facebook.com/CMCCustoms?fref=ts


            Yamaha Fz-S Ft Race Concepts
            http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...aked-bull.html

            Comment


            • Originally posted by Adarsh_Bk View Post
              I am no expert but just thought of sharing a few ideas..
              Main jet mostly makes a difference post 2/3rd throttle to wide open throttle. Fuel screw, idling and needle setting comes into play for first 2/3rd throttle.
              In your previous post, you said there was popping while decelerating, which is a clear sign of running lean. You also mentioned with 15 size pilot jet, it always starts at first crank then it should be the correct size (Better not to use 17.5) Also you say there is a great improvement in performance with 117.5 main jet, so then that should be the correct size.
              I dont know what can explain this behaviour! Seems very weird.

              One thing would be to try out 15 pilot and 117.5 main jet again and get the fuel screw setting perfect. I guess you are familiar with setting fuel screw?? Just ensure the tacho doesnt fluctuate when you idle. I am sure you should be able to solve the issue with this.
              Also what does the spark plug reading say? Is it too black or too white? Get a new plug if the current one is quite old.

              Originally posted by abhimanyu31 View Post
              Fuelling is dicey issue if you don't have related experience with carb systems tuning. its not as simple as swapping jets or adjusting the needle one or two notches. There is a very real possibility that you can make too many changes and really get lost along the way when you get conflicting readings. You will feel frustrated and wonder where you are going wrong. Unless you know a good tuner around who can do it for you based on experience and knowledge of your bike, you have no option but to follow the read - adjust - read process in step by step methodical manner.

              The first thing to do is to form a good baseline. This can be done by going back to stock settings and taking readings at increments of 500/ 1000 rpm in each gear and record the results of the readings. Once you have the readings you can identify the range in which the lean or rich peaks are. You will then need to make changes in increments and take readings across the range. Depending on the readings you may need to make changes to the needle, idle jet, main jet and or the air screw. It's a long drawn process the first few times but will get easier once the baseline gets refined.
              Ok. So tomorrow I will myself revert to the stock carburettor settings. The spark plug color is light tan i think.
              The bike is idling fine without any hiccups.
              @abhimanyu- can you please suggest me how to identify the lean and rich peaks in your experience. I am only asking to be sure of what i am
              doing and to do it correct the first time itself.

              Originally posted by stefanm View Post
              As you're in Pune, you can try either of the following combo's, change your spark plug to a higher number (i.e if it's a 6, put a 7) of the same size, just a normal one (around Rs50) and either fill with speed 97 or retard your timing by 4 degree's, then report back, also be careful where you fill fuel, if you're outside city limits you may get a lower octane, if you're inside then only fill at a trusted place, adulteration is common and wide spread, i've had a few bad experiences filling diesel in Pune.
              Will get a new spark plug tomorrow and put in some high octane fuel. Lets see what do we get.

              Originally posted by Vizack View Post
              I must say I'm mighty impressed with the RC Big Bore Camshaft and Racing Clutch spring to say the least.
              The cams noise can be annoying to some but I'm living with it.
              Regarding the TPS you can lock the TPS like how MadMik has done so that there wont be any engine check light showing up
              Could you tell what did you do to the TPS like MadMik.

              cheers...

              Comment


              • Originally posted by N-o-v-i-c-e View Post

                Could you tell what did you do to the TPS like MadMik.

                cheers...
                I haven't removed the TPS as I'm On stock Carb fro the time being but will do that once that 33mm semiflat carb is in place.
                I think MadMik should show his presence here to help N-O-V-I-C-E
                COLOUR ME CARZY CUSTOMS
                http://www.facebook.com/CMCCustoms?fref=ts


                Yamaha Fz-S Ft Race Concepts
                http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...aked-bull.html

                Comment


                • Originally posted by jonahmano View Post

                  There is another parallel thread started by me - There I have given my detailed ownership experience on the big-bore kit. Please do read and come back. I'll be answering you if you have any specific questions.
                  What's the name of the thread.?

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by adityajohanan View Post
                    What's the name of the thread.?

                    Comment


                    • Noticed something strange today.

                      The bike rides normally in traffic and once on the highway upon hard acceleration the bike tends to choke and come back
                      to life again automatically.

                      What i am trying to convey is I am cruising at speeds above 75-80 km/hr and suddenly the bike comes to reserve.
                      But behold I still have 5 litres of fuel in my tank. Then i turn the petcock to reserve and back to ON.
                      Then all is hunky dory until it happens again next day or the day after.

                      Then why is the bike choking with that much fuel in tank and runs normal again after fiddling with the petcock.
                      This is baffling and immensely confusing. Please any advice would be very helpful.

                      cheers...

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by N-o-v-i-c-e View Post
                        Noticed something strange today.

                        The bike rides normally in traffic and once on the highway upon hard acceleration the bike tends to choke and come back
                        to life again automatically.

                        What i am trying to convey is I am cruising at speeds above 75-80 km/hr and suddenly the bike comes to reserve.
                        But behold I still have 5 litres of fuel in my tank. Then i turn the petcock to reserve and back to ON.
                        Then all is hunky dory until it happens again next day or the day after.

                        Then why is the bike choking with that much fuel in tank and runs normal again after fiddling with the petcock.
                        This is baffling and immensely confusing. Please any advice would be very helpful.

                        cheers...

                        Did it happen only once or does it happen everytime? Can you just inbox me about what happened. I had the same scenario but I will share it to you only personally.

                        Comment


                        • N-o-v-i-c-e and i had a chat regarding the issue and seems my man accidentally had installed the pilot jet from the stock BS 26 carb instead of the 17.5 which was causing the choking and engine shutting off. We both have narrowed down the issues to the carburetor and nothing else.

                          I am super pissed with the hectic work schedule which is keeping me off my little project and believe me not a single day goes by when i come back home; look at all the RC kits and replacement parts, cursing myself over not getting done and over with the build. Regardless, the wait seems to be endless now..



                          Cheers,
                          Last edited by shv18; 04-20-2013, 06:19 PM.
                          A quote by a toilet, " use me well, keep me clean, i would never tell anybody whatever i have seen.." :P

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by shv18 View Post
                            N-o-v-i-c-e and i had a chat regarding the issue and seems my man accidentally had installed the pilot jet from the stock BS 26 carb instead of the 17.5 which was causing the choking and engine shutting off. We both have narrowed down the issues to the carburetor and nothing else.

                            I am super pissed with the hectic work schedule which is keeping me off my little project and believe me not a single day goes by when i come back home; look at all the RC kits and replacement parts, cursing myself over not getting done and over with the build. Regardless, the wait seems to be endless now..

                            Cheers,
                            I was getting tired of the Yamaha as well as other mechanics cursing me for frequently asking them to fiddle with my carburetor to get the perfect tune.
                            So I thought it was time to take matter into my own hands and i did. Also i can't travel frequently to these guys coz of my bad health.

                            So from last time I myself started to work on the carburetor. So the following is what I did last time.

                            I had installed the pilot jet of size 15 and main jet of size 115.
                            Because the bike earlier with the 17.5 pilot jet and main jet 117.5 was shutting down at traffic signals after a ride of more than 10km.
                            Turned out that the 17.5 pilot jet is supplying more than required fuel. So the engine used to die down due to excessive fuel flow.

                            After installing the pilot jet of 15 and main jet of 115 the bike wasn't stalling anymore. Even after a continuous ride of 40km the engine used to idle good.
                            But now the bike was seriously underpowered. And man the popping now was horrible. Lots of it. So it was certain that pilot 15 was lean.
                            It used to start at first crank just like with the 17.5 jet but would take a long time to warm up and stall in between.

                            So I had no choice but to install the whole P180 jet kit. i.e. pilot jet 17.5, needle jet, main jet 117.5.
                            Now the bike is warming up normally and wouldn't stall in the process. Bike is running better than before but still nowhere to what a fully souped
                            up FZ with RC parts should run like.

                            Now after some tuning with the P180 kit the bike runs without stalling for what short rides i have done.
                            But noticed that the after I shut the bike after a 10km ride, then it doesn't start easily. It takes some 5-10 cranks.
                            This was not the issue with the pilot 15, main 115 setup. Bike started under any condition.

                            Also now flat spot between 4k - 6k rpm. So i thought of trying to change the needle position a notch below.
                            To my horror i was shocked to see the needle has no adjusting grooves. It has a single position. It was supplied such with the BS29 i bought from Joel.
                            Even my stock BS 26 carb needle has 3 positions. So now I am unable to do anything about the mid-range at present.

                            So I am still trying to fine tune the carburetor and extract the power expected of the RC kit.

                            cheers...

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by N-o-v-i-c-e View Post
                              So i thought of trying to change the needle position a notch below.
                              To my horror i was shocked to see the needle has no adjusting grooves. It has a single position. It was supplied such with the BS29 i bought from Joel.
                              Even my stock BS 26 carb needle has 3 positions. So now I am unable to do anything about the mid-range at present.

                              So I am still trying to fine tune the carburetor and extract the power expected of the RC kit.

                              cheers...
                              That is really surprising! It is supposed to have 3 positions.

                              But you can try out one thing. if you have a small washer which can fit into the needle properly then you can use it to move the clip up/down depending on your needs. Since you want to make it richer, place the washer where the clip is now and place the clip below it which will be same as shifting the clip to the lower position.

                              Hope this helps.
                              Last edited by Adarsh_Bk; 04-22-2013, 12:06 AM.
                              Ride hard.. Ride safe.. Always!

                              S1000RR ownership experience

                              You can also follow me on YouTube here

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Adarsh_Bk View Post
                                That is really surprising! It is supposed to have 3 positions.

                                But you can try out one thing. if you have a small washer which can fit into the needle properly then you can use it to move the clip up/down depending on your needs. Since you want to make it richer, place the washer where the clip is now and place the clip below it which will be same as shifting the clip to the lower position.

                                Hope this helps.
                                Thats exactly what i planned to do today. So i was gonna go out to buy those small washers.

                                They are found only in specific shops some distance away from my home.

                                But couldnt go out because todayi felt too much out of sorts. I would go out tmororow if feel a little better.

                                cheers...

                                Comment

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