Re: Possible TPS installation on BS 29 CV carburettor

Hi, nice to see that you finally get to feel, what I earlier meant by 'fly'.

The bike is definitely running richer at the lower rpm's.

Regarding the P180 reed switch assembly as we discussed earlier it won't match our bike's CDI wiring.

Also the TPS position I think should be left open to the max. possible WOT position. Although I have to try it out myself again.

When I inquired about the lever spring mechanism I was told that it is NOT sold separately. The lever comes pre-fitted with
the carburetor only. So i guess we have to look for another option.

I am also noticing that piston slap sometimes during a ride.

I happened to casually ask a mechanic about the cap on the side of the BS29 carb and he said that it contains the nut to
hold the lever tight. Although I am not so much convinced he said he would try to source a BS29 from scrap.

So lets see if I can also get hold of one and then we can further dig into this TPS thing.

Until then let loose of yourself riding the beastly bike and enjoy the trip.

cheers...

Re: Possible TPS installation on BS 29 CV carburettor

Ah, you are gonna love your ride mate. It's exhilarating to be able to whoop almost anyone on the streets .
You can cruise at around 100 all day long.
I actually went ahead with the 15t sprocket upgrade, lost a little on the low end.
The only drawback I experienced with this was when going WOT and shifting gears at around 8k I used to hear a grinding noise from the engine at 8k to be exact. I think the upgrade stressed the engine and caused it to knock, correct me.
Installed the stock 14t and the sound disappeared.
And yeah about the piston slap, I experienced it when you suddenly yank open the throttle on idle. It's kinda normal I suppose.
Ride safe





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Re: Possible TPS installation on BS 29 CV carburettor

My guess, something was not done correctly when the 15T sprocket was installed. I haven't heard of any such problem on any of other FZs with the 15T mod. i may be going for this mod soon with my chain and sprocket change hitting the last setting in a matter of thousand kms.

Thanks mate for listening to all my crap! I hope with the collective effort from all riders we can create a healthy platform for providing factual information in this thread regarding what we have learned and experienced so far with our respective builds.

In a matter of few hours, I am going for a 180 kms test ride along with pillion as an add on load to see what changes have taken place since, the heart transplant, how the bike will now cope in the ghats. With the stock bike it used to be a pain with the gears being needed to be shifted to lower ones all the time and it compounded if there was a pillion load. So Let's see how RC's kits fare now in this department.

One thing is for sure, my ride is currently on rich AFR as an approximate FE has come down to 30kmpl or less. Senior rider abhimanyu31 gave me a suggestion to change the needle position to lean and see if the issue of rpms coming down very slowly below 3000 is taken care off after that. As per my last conversation with Joel, he is still recommending keeping the TPS locked to full so till we can find a solution to make the damn thing work, I will try his advice this weekend and then shall report back my observations. In terms of what effects do I witness: Whether there are any jerks or knocking problems at low end - mid range or at the top end. I shall report back and confirm whether not having TPS function at all and locking it to full affects the overall refinement and performance of the souped up ride.

I am not witnessing any jerks or knocking throughout the rev range till 8000 rpm (besides the symptoms i have mentioned in my earlier post) which clarifies one thing that Mumbai is receiving higher RON fuel atleast in Oil company operated petrol bunks. I am currently using normal grade Petrol rated 91 RON as per the petrol bunk records for all my tests.

Cheers,

RC kits 1000 kms Log report 14th May, 2013

Hi All,

Yesterday as mentioned earlier, i took my FZ-X on an extensive test to see whether the RC kits for Yamaha FZ/Fazer are able to withstand long hours of high rpms on the highway. Although the initial plan was to limit the test just under 180 kms; however, somewhere down the road i got carried away and increased the test range to 312 kms by the time reached home! What can i say.. i am an idiot.. heh!

@TheMonk: I hope constant updates and logs on this thread complying with your request sir??


My bike has now clocked 1026 kms on the trip meter. So here are the reports:

1) I had a pillion along along with me. This was done to simulate the add weight stress on the bike and see how she performs on the ghats and the overall highway response. As we are all aware on the stock 153 cc motor, having a pillion is like making a asthma patient do a marathon without the medicine.. always breathless!! But on the RC kits things changed: I was able to constantly hit 85-95-100 kmph being in upright seating position without any trouble. The power is very evident from the moment you apply throttle and see the revs fly by which is indeed a visual treat. On ghats is where she surprised me the most. Normally when ascending on the ghats on a stock bike along with a pillion earlier, i had to constantly downshift to first and second gear in order to climb up however, this time my FZ-X was able to do the same route on 2nd, 3rd and even 4th gear without any problem. Mind you the fuelling and the CDI are still not sorted out.

2) I was initially planning to be gentle with her but then decided what the heck!! Throughout the 312 kms of the test ride the engine was intentionally stressed by keeping the rpm hovering around 6000-8000 rpm for long distances (ofcourse modulating the throttle) and without giving breaks at all. I wanted to see if the engine would overheat and starts losing power in the ambient temps soaring at 30'C+. Observations?? She was sublime.. no complaints, even with the pillion load hitting 90-95 kmph band constantly was not an issue. The good thing with the RC camshaft is that the power is available on demand: a slight movement of the right hand will make the bike lunge forward even with a pillion load at the back which was something to dream about on the stock bike. The test was done at an average ambient temperature of 32'C temps. I must add one liner for Motul 300V 15W 50 FS oil. It was doing its job brilliantly even under such high stress and high temp environment. I would recommend this oil only for such high tolerance and high compression set up.

3) Beyond 6500 rpm onwards i was experiencing a lot of vibrations percolating to the handlebar which was seriously not a good thing! I guess at these rpms the vibey nature of the 180cc RC kit becomes alive, atleast on my bike it did! My hands were numb by the end of the journey. I hope there is some way to dampen these vibes. The cam noise has increased post the completion of the ride.

4) I was in touch with rider n-o-v-i-c-e giving him updates constantly whenever i could manage. Unfortunately midway during the test my bike's chain started showing signs of slacking. It has hit the last adjustment position now but with no mechanics in sight i had no choice but carry on the test. So with chain slacking and draining quite a lot of power in terms of transmission loss i continued with the journey. Still the engine didn't feel out of breath. For some awkward reason my bike loves to munch on chains and sprockets. The 1st set got done and over with at around 13,700 kms. The second one is also dying at almost the same mileage. I always keep the chain lubricated and cleaned so i suspect that it is time to get the rear tire bearing checked. Now the 3rd chain and sprockets set is due. I will try the 15T set up along with this change and shall report back my observations.

5) With the peculiar problem of the engine rpms coming down very slowly when shutting the throttle, it became more evident on the highway. My muscle memory is attuned with the stock bike which compounded the problem when it came to braking and cutting the speed as in when needed. So i ended up using engine braking along with brakes in order to get better stopping power and also ensuring that i don't overheat the brakes. I will have to get this fuelling issue sorted out really quick as on highways it makes things difficult and dangerous with so many unknown potholes and frekkin speed breakers emerging out of no where in the middle of a frekkin highway where it never used to exist a few months back!! A serious hazard for riders! I guess the Public Works Department anyways being corrupt and useless and bored at their jobs suddenly come up with a game to see who builds maximum no. of speed breakers in roads under jurisdiction just for fun!!

6) For the mileage hungry junta: i was able to do a conservative figure of 36 kmpl in this test ride which is very commendable considering the increase in cubic capacity, increase in bhp, chain taking away a lot of power due to slackening. And let's not forget the fuelling is still on the richer side and the TPS still not sorted out. I didn't witness at flat spots throughout this extensive test at any rpms in any range.

To be honest i was very skeptical: whether the RC kits would be able to survive this gruelling test. Do remember folks that i really really didn't allow the engine to relax and constantly kept the revs at a higher to see whether the kits would give up mid way and there i go calling frantically the towing service post engine seizure!

The pillion rider was already bribed with food and beverages to ensure that i don't get complaints or whines should such an event occur!! I will soon do a 500 kms extended solo ride after the fuelling, CDi and now the chain and sprockets are sorted out and shall report back. RC kits have survived the 1st milestone of 1000 kms. I would still not give out brownie points yet that the kits are reliable. I first would want to cover significant no. of kms and see how they fare. If these kits are able to cross 25, 000+ kms then being after market performance parts: in my books i shall consider them to be reliable!

Updates?? Shall keep 'em coming folks..


Cheers

Re: RC kits 1000 kms Log report 14th May, 2013

Good that you are enjoying your bike! Have a good long time with it, and keep updating on your "discoveries".

I would do a few comments on your here-above report, though.

1- There is, in fact, absolutely nothing peculiar or fantastic in being able to keep a constant 85 - 100 kmh on a highway for a couple of hours, covering (from what I understand) some 150 km.each way (I guess you stopped half way, but that is not significant either). On my old (very old, and a long time ago) Honda CD-125, I had done (once: very tiring!) Nice- Lyon - one hour stop - Lyon Paris, in France, maning a good 1,000 km. at a near constant sped of 80 to 90 km, with luggage. On my FZ xx, I have more than once done the 200km. back and forth trip from Saigon to Vung Tau, in Vietnam, under scorching sun, non stop, speed between of 100 - 110 (and some extra when taking over trucks), with my 80kg. plus some 10 kg. luggage. I do not have, as you know, a RC kit, but a Honda piston giving a capacity of 205cc. Oil cooler seems good, though!

2- You say: "the good thing with the RC camshaft..." How can you differentiate what improvement comes from the big bore kit, the camshaft, the carburetor, the exhaust, etc...??? I have installed this camshaft without doing other simultaneous modifications, so I could see what can be attributed to this or that. I would say that I feel that the engine revs more easily from 6k. rpm. and up. Top speed: unchanged (125kmh. seated, with big, not very aerodynamic riding jacket, like before - not been able to do faster yet due to traffic). Distribution noise: unpleasantly increased. Cold start, OK, but hot, be cautious: back firing is easy if giving a bit of throttle!

3- You should NOT go for any highway trip with a chain that has reached it's limit! Chain is inexpensive, and needs to be changed well before that, anyway. It is when you need the power (overtaking a truck) that it will break, and that can be lethal, so better keep on the safe side and change well before last minute. Actually, thee are three things on a bike where money should be no concern (excepted for the "mileage hungry" ones, that will want to save 20 rupees!): these are the oil, the spark plug, and the chain. About the chain again: a worn chain (I do not mean "super worn" - I guess you were not reaching that stage!) will not cause significant transmission loss. The lower part of it when "flapping" does not do anything. Only the upper part, in tension, does.

4- Vibrations: that is surprising, and you are not the only one mentioning it. Joel says that his piston weight is near the stock one. I guess mine is significantly heavier, being even larger, and I do not have vibrations but some hardly noticeable at about 8k. rpm.!

5- 15 teeth front sprocket: good! A speed of 120kmh. for example will go from 120 to 128, with the same engine revs. That is quite something while the difference in acceleration and torque is hardly noticeable (all that if the power permits, of course: on the stock bike: ridiculous!). You will notice that you do not have to get into second gear a fraction of a second after starting, and it suits the FZ "souped up" engine well.

6- Engine braking: you should have felt a very significant difference! However, do not be afraid to "overheat the brakes" (well: you still have that miserable drum aft brake...): the front brake can stand a hell of a lot of heat, repeated extreme braking, and will cope with that brilliantly. At least that is something where this bike is great, as stock!

Keep having fun!

Re: RC kits 1000 kms Log report 14th May, 2013

Thanks mate. Just to keep the discussion going, below are some of my replies to your points:

Re: RC kits 1000 kms Log report 14th May, 2013

Sorry buddy....i was away from town for sometime. I am back now and see that your usual blabber experience ha been penned down.

Its good to know that the RC kit passed your first 1000km test.

The ghats are exactly the place where we could find out the difference between stock and RC kit easily.

About the vibes, I frankly didn't ride it above 6500rpm constantly coz of my unsorted fueling issue.

The engine rpm coming down slowly is a peculiar problem which I haven't been able to rectify, what with the needle already at the leanest position.
So I shall get back to you if I get any solution as I am working on it.

Your chain has some 500-600km city ride left in it. If you were to go for the next ride outside town, it would be safe to get the new set on.

I'll talk to you later after I get some stuff I've ordered for the carb fueling issue.
Lets hope those parts do solve the issue.

cheers...

Re: RC kits 1000 kms Log report 14th May, 2013

Once a blabberer always a blabberer!! Anyways as of now have clocked around 1300 kms on the trip meter and the cam "stitching" noise and vibrations on the handlebar have increased by quite a bit. I suspect the valve clearances have gone off after the high speed runs. Decided to check with Joel once, he is still recommending setting the valve clearances to 0.06mm and 0.08mm inlet and exhaust. I will consult with abhimanyu31 and decide the best course of action to be taken in this regard.

Another thing that i noticed was at around 3000 rpms especially low end behaviour of the bike is not that great.. she would suddenly jump rpms even on lower gears. May be the rich fuelling and CDI is the culprit. As mentioned earlier the chain + sprocket set and the rear swing arm bush is due for change. Unfortunately the parts have still not arrived at the SVC. So have to wait out for another week. The engine now cranks by itself at one or two attempts without applying throttle when cold. I guess after 500 kms and the carbon deposition on the head and the ported areas now: the compression has now reached to optimum level. If we are able to sort out the problem of bike continuing to move forward even after the throttle is shut, i shall try and take a pic of the needle/slide positions we tried or any other tinkering we did to get the thing working.

FE as of now is hovering around 37-40 kmpl even with periodic heavy throttle application , which is close to stock bike's FE when riding sanely. So in my case atleast, with the increase in power i have not witnessed a drop in FE. But it is still too early to give a thumbs up in this department till we sort out the AFR to stoich.


Cheers,

RC kits 1600 kms Log report 24th May, 2013

Hi all,

After a wait of almost a week, the required replacement parts had finally arrived at the SVC. In order to keep things simple, I shall break this post into two sections. One covering the replacements, experiments, carb tuning, TPS etc. and the other part shall be covering my long term ownership experience (read around 4 months) with HID lighting system on my FZ-X and after thoughts. So kindly bear with me if i end up writing "Jungle Book" instead of a small post.

Just want document everything that was attempted with this build for the benefit of the community that's all.


SECTION 1:

1) Part replacements: As mentioned earlier, my ageing ride now needed a new set of chain and sprockets along with swing arm bush. We first dismantled chain and sprockets and then the swing arm in order to replace the bush and other parts. The factory fitted swing arm bush were pretty much shot after almost 28,000 kms of usage since the last overhaul for greasing.



Pic 1: Swing arm bush X 2.

I will not go into details pertaining to swing arm overhaul as there is already an extensive DIY tutorial written by rider Deville_56 on xbhp. One can check out the same by following this thread: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/do-yours...-overhaul.html . I also replaced the cush pads as the earlier ones had worn out.

My rear brake was making squeaking noise every time it was engaged. So now with over 27,780 kms on the ODO, i guess it was time to get the rear brake liners checked. After inspection the technician confirmed that they are reaching last spot and may go on for another 1000-2000 kms. Not bad for a primitive drum braking system! I am quite impressed with the amount of mileage i was able to cover with the factory fitted rear drum brake liners. I decided not to be cheap and asked my technician to replace them asap.





Pic 2 & 3: Brake liners condition after covering almost 28,000 kms.

I then asked my technician to also check the brake shoes of the front disk brake and see if they need replacement as well. He confirmed that they still have a healthy bite and the wear indicator is on the half way limit. So i reckon another 3000-4000 kms on the front brakes which translates to around 32,000+ kms on OEM factory fitted stock front brake shoes! I guess a mixture of throttle control and gear braking is one of the reasons behind such an extensive life of the brakes. Though i feel the downside with applying so much engine/gear braking is shorter life of the chain and sprockets. Let's see how long the new set lasts. I will eventually try the 15T front sprocket mod after the fuelling has been sorted out.

2) Carb lever experiment: I was trying to source out a used BS26 carburettor to begin my experiment as mentioned in my earlier posts. The idea was to see if we can swap the lever mechanism containing the extension which controls the TPS on our respective bikes into the BS 29 carb and get the damn thing working. Luckily my "Jugaad" technician got hold of an old BS26 carburettor in order to begin the crazy experiment and then we dismantled the lever section from it.



Pic 4: The TPS Lever on BS26 stock Carburettor (Image Courtesy: Murali)



Pic 5: The lever now out from the BS 26 carburettor looks like this. Note the angled extension on the left part of the lever is what controls the movement of the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).

We then started dismantling the BS 29 Pulsar 180 UG carburettor. The side where the metal cap was sealed shut, as mentioned earlier we were initially expecting some sort of bolt/nut which would be holding the whole lever system tightly packed. However, after removing the cap, we found out that there was no such thing but instead a simple clip and washer installed to keep the lever locked in position.



Pic 6: The metal cap on the BS 29 Carburettor.



Pic 7: Metal cap now removed using a screw driver.



Pic 8: The lever kept in position by a simple metal circlip and a white washer as shown in the image.

We then removed the lever from the BS 29 carburettor by removing the circlip and the plastic washer. Unlike what i had expected the task was pretty simple. After the washer and circlip were removed we then unscrewed the round slide inside the venturi and the lever came out sliding pretty easily.



Pic 9: Lever from the BS 29 carburettor after detaching the circlip and the plastic washer.

We then inserted the lever of the BS26 carb into the BS29 carburettor to see if we can match the size and also if there are any holes or undulations which may allow the air to leak out from the venturi. The Lever from BS 26 carb has been machined specifically for the smaller venturi. Thus, when we attempted to adjust the postion of the lever, on the right side as shown in the pic below, it was slightly off by 2 mm or more which meant that we won't be able to mount the round slide back into the carburettor. Now i don't have access to CNC machines which would have allowed us to saw of bits and pieces from the BS 26 lever precisely in order to match the venturi of the BS 29 carburettor nor it would give any guarantee of a functional carburettor even if using crude instruments i was lets say, somehow able to achieve such a feat. So my mechanic advised me to let it be and move on to the next thing.



Pic 10: Side view of the BS 26 lever now mounted inside the BS 29 Carb.



Pic 11: View inside the BS 29 mm carb venturi. Notice the right side where the lever is protruding out inside the venturi.

Regrettably, in the end this turned out to be a failed experiment. Nonetheless, it did allow me to understand the functioning of a CV carb more intricately and the clever engineering that went behind such a small thing of out thousands of parts which work in unison in order to allow our motorcycle to function normally.

So the next obvious step now was to lock the TPS system to full and then begin the annoying process of tuning the carb to get rid of two issues:

a) The knocking at higher rpms of 8000 or above and
b) unwanted flow of fuel at 3000 rpm and below which makes the bike continue moving forward even after i have shut the throttle.

Since, we did have a spare TPS switch from the old carb, my technician decided to use that switch and take out the OEM switch with the TPS locked mid way as an option should we decide to move back and forth between the TPS positions. The spark plug reading was indicating mildly rich tune. So my technician attempted leaning out the AFR slightly to see if the RPM dropping slowly issue is sorted out. Unfortunately it didn't do much help but yes now the rpms were coming down slightly better. However, after we did a few test rides and came back to the workshop, here started a peculiar problem of rpms getting stuck at 2,500 for a good 5 seconds and then coming down to idling. My technician felt that we should give a try swapping the pilot jet to a smaller size and see if the problem still persists or it goes away. Currently i am on 17.5 pilot jet. So now the task is to get hold of a 15 sized pilot jet which would match with the BS 29 pulsar carb. But regardless i insisted on trying out every possible option with the existing jets first and see if can get rid of the problem.

Unfortunately the clock had hit 6 pm by then. So we decided to call it off for the day and we shall attempt further tuning on coming Monday. The technician has intentionally kept a lean tuning in order to see if there are significant changes in my FZ-X's behaviour after riding for a few kms. As a safety measure i will be limiting my runnings to 10 - 15 kms max in order to avoid the engine overheating till we meet next week and i start nagging him to get the carb tuning set right.

3) Observations after locking the TPS at Full: Unlike the earlier issues of engine knocking at lower rpms when the TPS was locked at mid level, it was not the case with the TPS now being locked at full position. The engine still cranked at one go but now the character of the bike has changed even further. I tried WOT on two runs and the front heavy FZ was doing wheelies easily on the first two gears! Now the speedo figures climb up even faster. The bike feels very mean and angry throughout the rev range.

But i have to admit at the great expense of the engine refinement. I don't know if this only the case with my ride or with other souped up FZ/Fazer riders as well but i am now experiencing vibrations even more than what it was when the TPS was locked mid way and it is happening now throughout the rev range. In the earlier case with the TPS locked mid way the vibes would only start appearing post 6500 rpm. The linear and smooth acceleration has now been replaced by very agressive, mean but vibey nature. Not exactly something i would like to have keeping in mind the intended touring set up.

I would request other riders to chime in and confirm if you too are experiencing the same vibey characteristics in your respective souped up FZs after locking the TPS at full? It will help me troubleshoot the problem better. There is no knocking except at WOT sometimes on 4th gear at around 5000-6000 rpm.

It was pretty apparent that the engine is running lean as the temps soared up quite high on my way to home. The mechanic had already intimated me that he has kept the tuning lean and asked me to report back on Monday so that we can fine tune the AFR map better. Hence, I decided to play it safe and give the engine a break of 15-20 mins mid way in order to ensure we don't create conditions which lead to a catastrophic failure due to lean AFR. I shall try and source out a 15 size pilot jet from Bajaj spares hopefully by tomorrow to keep things prepared for the continuation of my experiments with carb tuning.


SECTION 2

Ownership experience with HID:​ If folks may remember i had ordered a 35 watt HID kit from RnD Motovil in order to get better lighting for especially for long distance night riding. The initial experience was pretty good with the HID doing what was promised as they have significantly a higher light output when compared to the stock incandescent bulbs and on unlit highways the lighting was very bright keeping a lot thing visible which would have earlier been a case of hit or miss with the stock set up. Night riding is seriously a pain with the puny 35 watt bulb which was now a breeze with the HID set up. I never faced any battery draining issue while using this kit.

But as i continued using the HID kit in the following months, i saw a set of inconsistencies with the product build quality and the overall set up. This may sound negative and a bit harsh but i hope the sellers will take it as constructive criticism and work on their future products. The sellers were very prompt with keeping me updated with the shipments and other details which i really appreciate till date. However, once i received the kit and did the installation, it was found that the Ballast which was sent along with the kit was of average build quality and it was pretty clear that it will not survive the salty and extremely corrosive weather of the Mumbai coastline. I did have a major conversation with the sellers and made it pretty clear that the ballast should be of better quality and i really didn't mind spending extra for a robust system. but i guess somewhere down the line there was a miscommunication or short cuts applied. Thus, i had no choice but to swap the Ballast with a water proof digital one and the same power output and ratings.

Later whenever i gave my bike for pressure wash once, it was found that there would be formation of water droplets inside the dome which was a clear indicator of things not being sealed properly. After further inspection it was discovered that the rubber mount which is there at the back of the stock reflector assembly: was cut in order to accomodate the wiring for the LED and Angel eyes. And for some reason water proof silicon gel was not applied to make the dome weather proof and water tight. I was already getting concerned with the set up as all Mumbaikars are well aware of the wrath of monsoon season plays on vehicles be it two or four wheelers in Mumbai. Regardless, i decided to keep on using the system and see what leads to what.

Another problem that was discovered using HID was that the light would blend in on concrete roads when compared to a normal tarmac which would render the HID light useless. The problem got compounded if there was a light shower and the road surface was wet. However, there was no such issue on tar laid roads. So this set up was a no go especially on concrete highways of Maharashtra.

After 3 months, the LED pilot lamp went bust. Although not unexpected as i have already seen plenty of such cases even with the aftermarket OEM pilot lamps from Yamaha's add on accessories. On the 4th month the water seepage problem inside the dome became worse and that was the moment when i decided it was not worth risking riding on highways with such a set up with the monsoons approaching soon. It can lead to serious electrical and fire hazard risk.

I must admit that senior rider abhimanyu31 had earlier advised me not to install such set up based on his experience with HID kits on his souped up R16.. However, being crazy and experimental i decided to give it a go and see what is what and clear the air with HID mods. i will say this out loud in public.. sir you were right and i was wrong!!

I had no choice but to scrap the HID kit and moved back on to stock set up. However, i did swapped the stock 35 watt headlight bulb with Osram 60/55 Watt bulb. The low beam spread and intensity has definitely improved and the high beam well, even on stock bulb the light output was good enough. The only difference is when using the pass light switch, the 60/55 watt response time was slightly slow when compared to stock bulb. I have had extensive chats with riders having the same set up and checked with them if there have been any issues with fuse blowing up or RR unit giving up post 60/55 Watt headlight bulb upgrade. The response was positive: All the riders have used this set up for over 3 years without any issue. Plus the ownership cost of replacing a bulb is just 100 bucks INR compared to the expensive replacement of HID ballast and bulb when they do die. However, only thing to bear in mind is not to crank the engine with the headlights on or use horn with the headlights kept on without the engine running. It will drain the battery really quick and may damage the RR unit in the long run.

I believe RnD Motovil is a good start up and they have a good thing going however, they really really need to do QC checks before selling items to a customer. Apologising and giving me the reasons behind not doing the things rightly after i have received the product is not something any customer would appreciate or want to hear. I am sure that their future iterations will be of better build and they will address such issues. I wish them the very best however, for me this the where i part my ways from HID mods.

So in my case atleast the HID mod didn't yield results as i expected. That being said, this may be one off thing as there are other HID kits out in the market as well which have performed flawlessly and have had good results.


I hope riders following this thread didn't fall off to sleep midway .. I shall log in more reports post carb tuning.


Cheers,

Re: RC kits 1600 kms Log report 24th May, 2013

[MENTION=32641]shv18[/MENTION] I didn't fall asleep, but did go for a long ride in between

But in all seriousness, a good informative write up. Again.

BTW have you checked out the modded dazzler thread in Ahmedabad? xtremevirus managed to figure out the TPS thing on his bike with a new carb. Though honestly couldn't figure out what he did. Maybe you will be in a better position to understand. http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...tml#post947752

Re: RC kits 1600 kms Log report 24th May, 2013

Well i did check out the thread but really couldn't figure out what the gentlemen was trying to explain. My guess is somehow his mechanic had hotwired a throttle body with a dual accelerator cable on the other side of the carb to actuate the TPS with the movement of the accelerator. Right now my biggest concern is related with the tuning of the carb. let's see the experiments are still on ....

Thanks again for your kind words.. i am no great writer but i hope i am able to point out things in simple lay man terms by using pics for reference.



Cheers,

Re: The POWERHOUSE Fz18

First off, I'd suggest you start a blog mate. Your writing is wonderful and intuitive that even a total noob can go ahead and adjust his bike's tappets confidently
I can't really comment on the af mixture and the cause of the rpms to drop slowly, coz in my case the revs actually do drop at a lazy pace as described by you. But that's the characteristic of the semi flat carbs, gotta live with it eh!!!
Whereas the mixture is near ideal
A pic of my piston.



Tbh, I haven't really experienced vibes at all on my ride. It's aggressive no doubt but vibe less. Even at wot changing gears at redlines one experiences insane acceleration but no vibes or maybe marginal, nothing that would numb your fingers after an hour's ride or so.
To put things in perspective, the day I had to change my camshaft I left my bike at Joel's and rode back home on a pulsar 220. Half way on nice road I stop the bike and massage my thighs and fingers coz they'd become numb due to the vibrations, whereas on the FZ I haven't experienced anything of that sort at all. Hope this helps coz I haven't ridden another Joelled FZ other than mine to actually describe the vibes.



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Re: The POWERHOUSE Fz18

[MENTION=29396]shiv[/MENTION], I have been running HID's that I had bought from Navnish "tourer gear" two years ago and still going strong, very happy with them and he had also given a decent amount of customer service also. If you open your headlight, you need to reseal with the appropriate sealant, a very simple job and the sealant usually comes with the kit, afraid you got robbed by the peeps you bought the kit from.

Re: The POWERHOUSE Fz18

Hehe,

well i think i am fine here at FZ 18 thread bro. This is what me and rider n-o-v-i-c-e had cooked up long back in order to log our experiences and also try and lay out a noob friendly thread where the whole process is documented shared. I don't know how far i have been successful in following the suit but i intend to continue posting as i clock mileage with the RC kits till i part away from my FZ-X or else the kit decides to part away from me either by blowing up or ceasing!! I don't want to be the member who opens up another thread/blog on the same matter as it is a real pain for the moderators to clean up and keep a track of and also confusing for riders, noobs or anyone else who wants to follow it.

BTW i have still not given up on the idea of getting the TPS to work yet! I am thinking of attempting a crazy plan. I will saw off this bit of the lever from the BS 26 which controls the TPS actuation:



Pic 1: BS 26 carb lever

Polish it properly and then attach it to the end side of the BS29 lever either using industrial grade Metal to Metal bonding glue or else welding it to the designated spot. However, the challenge would be to ensure that we are able to fix the extended lever properly so that it rotates within the amount of actuation required by the TPS. It should not wobble while the throttle is applied otherwise that would defeat the purpose.



Pic 2: BS 29 carb lever.

Then the next challenge will be to create a mounting point or a screw port for the TPS holding screw to attach on. Unlike BS26 carburettor there are no designated spot for the TPS screw to mount on. So we may have to glue or weld one such contraption on the side as shown in the pic below. Atleast from the visual inspection of both the levers from BS 26 & 29 carb this should be theoretically possible.



Pic 3: The BS 29 lever highlighted within the red marked area of the carb. The blue highlighted area where we glue in a mounting pole for the TPS screw to hold it tightly in its position

The lever extending out of the right hand side of the BS 29 carb (as shown in the picture above) has already a seal and circlip locking it tightly to its position and there is no air leak from that spot. I really don't know if this crazy idea will work but atleast by a long shot i feel it is possible! lemme run this by abhimanyu31 and see if he feels this is doable or just another random idea that should be in the bin.

What can i say the hot roding bug has made me crazy

Thanks mate, i actually was going to pick up my HID kit from navnish but for some reason it didn't materialise. I believe he was in China at that point of time and was not able to respond to my mails or something like that. But regardless, let bygones be bygones, i feel having a simple halogen bulb upgrade over an HID kit has its own benefits:

1) Operational Cost: 50 - 100 bucks if and when the Halogen fails. So pretty much pocket friendly.

2) Installation: One can replace the bulb following a simple DIY or just let a roadside mechanic with some sense open the front dome and access the old bulb. Not the case with HID system where say an unwanted failure in the middle of nowhere due to Ballast going off or the HID bulb dying a normal death will put you into trouble. Plus the 55 watt bulb is compatible to the FZ stock dome so no modifications are required and by default the dome is waterproof. The RR unit and the DC electrical set up of FZ can handle the voltage requirement of the 55 watt bulb so that's 3 brownie points for the halogen bulb mod.

3) Light Output: A 35 watt HID generates as much light as a 55 watt Halogen. I can verify this as I did end up conducting a test last night with the help of rider Iceman331 who has an HID set up on his FZ and got both of our bikes positioned parallel to each other and check out the intensity. In comparison the Halogen bulb's light doesnot get blended in on concrete roads to that of an HID even 4300K. The stock FZ reflector dome is really good in reflecting most of the light back on roads. With the 55 watt upgrade now the low beam is really strong and serves the purpose of night riding rather well.


Cheers,

Re: The POWERHOUSE Fz18

You really are a chatty brat, ain't you???

The vibes you are talking about are absent on my ride until it crosses the 6k rpm mark.
I would give it a run again tonight and let you know of the vibrations, if any, and at what rpm do they kick in.

Its sad to hear that your HID has kit retired with not so much of service being done by it.
Maybe you got jinxed by a bad piece from them.

Also as discussed I removed the FFE and fitted the stock exhaust back.
Now the bike response is better at higher RPM than it was with the FFE.

So now, as you said, we are on the same chapter of the book.
Lets see how do we learn the new lessons from here on.

Regarding the TPS i think you will have to tinker with the lever of the BS26 on both the sides.
Only then would it fit properly without any air leaks.

The mounting of the TPS unit onto the BS29 comes later on which as we discussed could be achieved
either by spot welding or the metal bonding glue.

Well now maybe I will get the tuning right. Lets see what happens in the next 2-3 days.
Will keep you guys posted.

Cheers...