Good to hear that your bad monster would be made soon....finally i would be able to compare mine with another of the same setup.
And just my personal opinion if you are not much into looks then i think you can go for the stock replica FFE and save some(or a lot) money.

This is exactly what i couldn't express in words properly here. The "engine braking" is not as it used to be.
The bike still keeps moving on even when the throttle is closed.

The carb is new and i didn't open it after fitting it first. During fitting the carb was cleaned and the needle and jets were checked and found to be
in good condition. Although I forgot in which position the needle was.

After removing the carb any simple methods to check the slide working.

Another thing noticed today was the pop-pop sound Luke mentioned. I could hear it while decelerating from RPM above 5.5-6k.
But there is no popping sound below the 5k rpm range while accelerating or decelerating.
So any thoughts from you guys???

Also the tappet noise hasn't reduced since the new camshaft installation. Though i have run 900km.
Now i don't know what exact parts are leading to the tappet noise. I really need to get this done too.

cheers...

Hi All,

Me and N-o-v-i-c-e have been in touch discussing the probabilities and possibilities behind the jerky and vibey nature he is currently experiencing with his RC 182cc build . After our long chats, we have agreed that problem is purely with the fuelling of the bike. Many many thanks to Jonahmano and another rider from FB, Yamaha FZ group for providing the info , we both were able to conclude that opting for jets from Pulsar 180cc UG4 series will do the trick to get the right fuelling for the 182cc BB kit.

For those who may be interested:

Jet Holder kit for Pulsar 180 (Part No. DJ 121056) comprises of:

Main Jet: 117.5
Pilot Jet: 17.5
Needle Jet

Price (in Mumbai): INR 132/-

Images of the same:





Pic no.: 1&2: Jet holder kit for Bajaj Pulsar 180

So NOOBs, if for any reason the local Bajaj SVC/Workshop near your area doesn't have it in stock, you can place an advance order with them and they should be able to organise it for you within 15-20 days. If they are not able to do so, people needing help on the same can PM me and i can organise it and ship it to them as I just discovered today that a Bajaj workshop is barely 5 mins away from where i stay.

Initial reports by a fellow rider from FB group, has confirmed that his souped up bike even with a stock exhaust, currently is revving without any hiccups, flat spots and redlining without any issues. He is yet to conduct a speed run to confirm the true nature of the bike post changing the jets.

If N-o-v-i-c-e decides to land here in Mumbai, i shall help him getting the tuning set right for his bike and then will request him to post his experiences once, he does a 150+ kms of Journey back from Mumbai to Pune

For all the Noobs, the animation video below of how a CV carburetor functions should give you guys an idea about the functions of the pilot jet, main jet and needle jet:




@N-o-v-i-c-e: Bro i am still indecisive about the FFE.. It is not just about the money but the overall gains that i am looking at...will take a call later.

Cheers,

Preparatons for Gtech Speed runs on Stock FZ

Hi All,

Had a chat with abhimanyu31 and we have decided to get the speed runs done next weekend along with test rider Joelkraju. Now for the speed runs to be accurate, Gtech Pro RR Fanatic (GTech-Pro RR Fanatic) data logger requires some data to be fed in:

1) Wet weight of the bike: i.e. Tank Full fuel+Bike weight+ riding gear weight + rider weight

2) Frontal Overall area of the bike:

How to measure the frontal area of the bike (If i have understood the maths correctly from abhimanyu31) :

(Metric: To be measured in inches)

a) The height from the bar end of the bike's handle bar to the ground = L1
b) Handle bar to the helmet in crouching position = L2
c) Measure the length from one end of the handle bar to the other end = B1
d) L3 = L1 X L2
e) Frontal Area of the bike = L3 X B1 = 70% of the total amount = Frontal area of the bike

3) Co Efficient Drag = 0.9 (being a naked bike)

4) Custom power socket to get the readings from the engine revs and to calculate the throttle response

So i have got my jugaad power socket along with me. All is needed is to fix it to the bike. . We have got the Go Pro ready for recording the speed runs from a camera perspective. We will get the wet weight measured at a digital weighing bridge.

Have got the Pass 2 software to get the graphical readings and data output from the Gtech.



Pic 1: Gtech RR Pass 2 Software for getting the reading from the GPS Data Logger


I will be using Race Render software to get the data imprinted on the video for graphical representation. Unlike the earlier doubts and concerns with the youtube playing the videos too fast because of the limitations of the amount of frame rate it accepts to play the video, the data outcome from the datalogger is not affected by the speeds at which the video has been shot and reading that will be shared with you guys is accurate to the T.

Since, it will give out the timing measure in seconds out in the open, i believe it should be good enough folks?? :P



Pic 2: Race Render 2 Software for merging the Video with Graphics overlay giving out the realtime data on the speed, acceleration, Revs and the seconds needed to achieve say 0 - 100 kmph.

Race Render can also give out readings of lateral Gs experienced by a rider during such tests provided that the data logger can record and provide such information for processing it in the video. Ace rider, JoelkRaju will be allowed to go crazy on this bike. Since, the bike is bone stock with stock exhaust, more or less we should be able to replicate conditions faced by a normal bike. For all the nerds.. i will see if we can calculate the aero drag and other factors as well like mentioned earlier..

So stay tuned..

Cheers,

That sounds neat man. So we would be having real time data of stock bike soon. Good.

Alright, as we discussed I placed the order for the P180 jet holder kit at my nearby bajaj showroom.

He promised to get the kit in a week's time. Also the my mechanic is out of town for another week.

Funnny thing is Pune being bajaj hometown doesn't help. Not a single shop here has the kit in stock.
And mind you these are national distributors we are talking about.

So either way i will have to wait in agony for another week. Can't do nothing till then.

cheers...

Subscribed and waiting for the results.. Wooo:beer::beer:

Sent from my WT19i

First, welcome to xbhp. Ride good and stay active here. And below are the answers to questions.

1. The change in numbers is about 4-5 bhp in Joel's words. As for the feel, there is a lot of improvement in reality from stock bike.
The RC parts fitted bike is a hooligan to drive if you twist the throttle hard and on sane driving its a real treat to still be ahead of others.
2. The low end torque has immensely improved. Just the blip of the throttle will lunge you forward.
3. I still didn't check the fuel efficiency. So cant comment on it right now. But it SEEMS good.
4. No changes need to be done to your stock parts to fit these parts. Just plug and play.
5. In my opinion even if you dont want the FFE, you will need the air filter if you get the head porting done.
Else i think you can get away by fitting the carb and just the big bore.
6. I haven't faced any issues till date. Although the duration is less so to speak. I still don't get time to ride the bike coz of work commitments.
7. Any knowledgeable mechanic you trust can fit these parts easily.

I hope i have answered to your satisfaction. Ask if have any more doubts. Ready to help you.


thank you sir.i would start the convincing business at home.are u there in pune?would like to have a look at your bike.

I'm running on stock carb with big bore + simota air filter from Joel. Would you suggest I change the jets for stock carb? even my bike gets jerky.

Get rid of the stock carb ASAP. You can either buy a 29mm CV carb from Joel or else head to your nearest Bajaj workshop with a spares shop and order a 29mm CV carb for Pulsar 180 UG4. It has the jets already fitted which is needed by the 182cc engine. Costs around INR 2,300 - 2,500/-. If you have not got the volumetric porting done, i would suggest get it done asap.

However even with the new carb, it will still not spare you from getting it tuned correctly or else you will witness flat spots..

Cheers,

thanks mate yup have got the porting done. PM comin your way..

Countdown Begins for FZ-X, the "Extreme Version"

Hi All,

Have been updated by the SVC guys that finally, the stock pending parts: for the Valve assembly like Valve Rocker arms and Rocker Arm pins are available with them. At last, my wait for the essential stock parts is over!!

All i need to do now is bug the hell out of rider abhimanyu31 after we finish our speed runs with the stock bike. And ofcourse, figure out a suitable date with the technician to start the assembly/heart transplant of the RC kits onto my bike .

Happiness afterall.. is HERE!!



Cheers,

I would recommend going 1 step further and getting a true performance/racing type carb. More room to get your tune exact. Also they have a better finish compared to the tens of thousands of factory carbs that get tossed into a packing crate to be shipped out to manufacturers.

I went from a Keihin 28mm FCR round slide to a 33mm PWK semi flat slide (genuine, Not a Thailand copy with the big yellow idle adjust star shaped knob) 35mm is too large (I tried with a Keihin Airstriker but it was too rich) I was eyeing up a FCR but decided not to bother modding any further (well, at least on this bike, My next bike on the other hand )

The improvement was very noticeable

Factory fitted carbs are built to a price, not performance. You wouldn't run a 1.6L F1 engine with a carb from a 1.6L Mazda or Ford.
Just my 0.02cents

New Parts and a probable troubleshooting behind cam noise

@All: As mentioned in my earlier post, i procured the remaining parts from the Kamla Yamaha SVC centre. The images and the prices of the same have been updated at page No. 18: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...e-fz18-18.html


I was discussing with the SVC head regarding the issues rider Jonahmano has been witnessing with his tuned bike: clicking or whirring noise from the engine and so far his suspicion is with the mild lift camshaft. It took the SVC head about 10 seconds to pin point at the camshaft decompression assembly (Pics below) as the most probable culprit behind the irritating noise:








Pic 1,2 & 3 showing the Decompression assembly with a retractable spring mechanism to activate decomp unit or stop it after crossing certain RPMs.





The noise emitted by the spring mechanism in absence of the decomp unit which by default cannot be installed with the Mild Lift camshaft due to the nature of its design, as shown in the video above. The decompression assembly spring mechanism has now all the freeplay in the world to roam around when the engine is in operation.

If any of there riders who have recently got their respective FZs souped up, courtesy the RC kits from Joel and are witnessing a clicking or whirring noise, please keep a track of this thread. I will be getting my build started soon. If during the installation i find similar noise then the decomp assembly is indeed the problem... i will most likely get rid of the spring mechanism or lock it in one position.




Cheers,

That spring seems to be the main culprit behind the noise which i was thinking as tappet noise.
And which Luke is saying as click-click noise he hears.

The sound increases along with the RPM and all the more when the engine gets hot after a ride.

I procured the pulsar 180 jet kit today. It was promised yesterday but didn't arrive at the stockist from the warehouse.

So I'll be heading out tomorrow morning to get it fitted by my mechanic who's better than rest of the know-it-all mechs.

Lets hope this would solve the current lean running problem of my carb.

cheers...

A small update.
Got the pulsar 180 jet kit installed and now with technically more fuel flowing in the carb i.e. bigger main jet and needle jet.
The RPM's are coming down even slower than before. Now there is virtually no engine braking.

My search for a specialist tuner is still on.
Till then nobody is gonna touch the bike. At present i only suspect the carb tuning is not proper.
I would reserve comments on faulty parts, if any, only after we are sure that the carb tuning is perfect.

The thing is taking so long because of my ill health. If i get exhausted fully then i have to rest for a week at least.

If you people remember my bike's engine braking is almost nil. I have lubed and checked the free-play of all the cables that matter.
So in the meantime i just happened to just decrease the idle rpm. Just out of the blue. Dont know why i did that.
Earlier the rpm was 1500-1700 rpm. Decreased it to 1000-1200 rpm just to check engine behavior.

Now suddenly there is SOME engine braking happening. Although not as ideal as you would want.
But the idle rpm is too low to keep the engine alive at traffic stops.

I just though of updating something that's happening until i get it done for good.

I am in touch with shv18 about his upcoming build and the possibility of me riding over to his place when my health permits.

Surely the whole picture would get clear after i meet other senior riders as well over there.

Till then i would reserve my person bashing rights

Cigarette Charger Power Socket

SO all preps are ready. Got the cigarette lighter/power socket installed:



So speed runs are pending now. I am really greatful to rider abhimanyu31 for helping me out in the process of getting the GPS readings. Will keep you posted the moment we are done with the test.


Cheers,