The SVC here too keep a lot of clutch plate sets ready. And i think the later series of R15 V1 also had the FZ clutch plates if i am not misinformed.
I was told my clutch set was good to for another 10-20k, so was advised against changing immediately. Maybe yours is good too keeping in mind you had regularly changed engine oil without ripping the daylights out of her.

The jet kit would be very handy to avoid any surprises in mumbai. Not only you but me too wanna see your souped up ride soon.

I will make sure the SVC guys have all the instruments ready along with the service manual. During my engine build they didnt have the rocker arms and shafts in stock.
Thank you for the suggestions. Think i may need to ask them again now.

Re: The POWERHOUSE Fz18

So the post 2011 r15(v2) plates are suitable for fz good to know




Sent from my WT19i

Well unlees the SVC guys accidently gave me the wrong info on the same I am 100% sure that both the clutch plates are the same. Abhimanyu31 was also present when the conversation and the order placement was taking place. However let me confirm again.

The service manual of the new R15 V 2.0 also mentions the same part no. For the clutch set up. The friction plates and clutch plates come as a set together, atleast the sample that was shown to me.

Cheers,

The POWERHOUSE Fz18

^^^ yes I was there, but I still have my doubts. Something does not add up out here. Logic says that the friction material used in both should be different. Anyway, as I have a 20P engine, my bike uses the 5 plate system.

Though if you think about it from a manufacturing point of view, it will be cheaper to use the same parts on other platforms, same as on other machinery.
Remember they are a business, they need to keep costs down and maximize profits.

Well: it is pretty clear that these must be identical, then, otherwise I am afraid Yamaha may have trouble finding who's is what!!!
Thanks
LL

So this in turn means that the clutch plates are too good for the FZ or if not then they are not so good for the R15.
Because obviously the operating 'strength requirements' of both the bikes are very different. Right???

Also as abhimanyu31 and Luke say something does not add up.
Can it be that the actual material used could be different according to the needs of the bike with the part no. and design being kept same.
Or am i thinking too much here???

Wrong!
There is more difference between these two bikes than just their engines, which are not that different in "strength requirement":

Both engines are 150cc (approx), and while the R-15 delivers 12.38KW and a torque of 1.56 Nm., the FZ still has a not to bad engine (severely insufficient In My Humble Opinion - but that's me!) delivering 10.3 KW and a torque of 13.6 Nm. That is rather little, and a no-way significantly enough difference to justify a different clutch for both of those bikes. If the serial numbers are the same, you can be dead sure that the parts are strictly identical!

However, something puzzles me in the fact that Joel, who quite well knows these bikes, described the FZ-16 clutch plates as grossly insufficient for the job with his "medium" tuning, while he said that the R-15 ones were able to withstand his really souped-up engines for some 20,000 km!

So, effectively: OR the FZ now (finally!) benefits from decent friction plates, OR the R-15 has now got miserable ones!!! Time will tell!

All I can tell you is that the friction plates I got on my (205cc.) 2011 model bike are S***T!

Have you checked if the steel friction plates are flat?
When I had my engine opened I had noticed these pieces were not truely flat, I was going to rub them flat on some wet and dry paper on a sheet of glass, like what I had to do with the cyl head .
I had noticed there was a burr on the edge, like it was pressed out.

I will check on this confirm again. Even I was not fully convinced when I was told about it. However I had repeatedly asked the guys over the counter again and again if they were absolutely sure and they had given me the same answer.

They told me clearly that the 20P series R15s have a different clutch set up and the ones post that have 4 clutch plate set up which is same as FZ.

So lemme get hold of the SVC head once, if he also confirms on this then without a doubt the clutch plates of FZ are shared with that of the new series of R15.

Cheers,

The steel plates show a uniform wear (well: shine) meaning at least that they are flat when pressed!
For those reading here: any sanding on them must be done with very fine grain otherwise they will "bite" and not slip - that is what's done on dragsters unless they have (even worse) a metal on metal cone clutch!!! - but also wear down the friction plates a very high speed!

The failure of the friction plates was rather sudden. When clutch starts slipping, they wear down fast, and the oil got very black in no time. I had suffered already instant slippage after installing Mr. Haryono-the-lord-of-BS also called tungsten "race" springs, but for a very short time: went back to the garage immediately to get the stock ones back on. Then, I was very gentle on the clutch until I installed RC race springs, these effectively much stiffer, and that is where, giving my bike some rev-up and "bang" on the clutch that I saw that it just could not cope with it. They did not last long, and blackened the oil in 200 km. (back and forth to Vung Tau) due to many "accidental" slippage when I would simply open up.
Now: I have one more steel plate, and it works, although I had to replace the dead plates (although only 1/2 a mm. wear on the whole pile of four) by some "standard", probably Chinese ones bought on the aftermarket.
I had asked kind Sir Abhimanyu31 if he could get me some R-15 - 2012 ones since I had been told by Joel that they could be fitted on the FZ-16, but they were not in stock!!!

Thats what i am trying to say. Either the Fz is better off or the R-15 is worse.
And thats why Joel said to use the R-15 plates or perhaps there might be another reason.

If not then my speculation with no technical knowledge leads me to believe that the R-15 plates might be somewhat different.
Dont kill me if i am wrong but there is something missing in this information cycle.

cheers...

Errrr... I didn't know I was knighted, where are my fiefdom, my lands and serfs ???? Hmmm.... Mr. Haryono is now apparently a noble man having being given lordship... me only a knight...

On a more serious note, Luke, you need to let me know what you want to do about the clutch plates, I had replied to your mail and am still awaiting your answer.

content yourself with your ride!

FFE Upgrade due.

Hi all,

Just wanted to put an update that I finally sold the older gen FFE, RC to a rider looking for something extra from his stock FZ as I was due anyways for an SS upgrade. I must say I had a blast for first 5 months of ownership. The bike would accelerate so damn fast past 100 kmph indicated speed which would otherwise take ages on the stock exhaust. In a way I am sad that I have to part with it and also the fact that post re-electro plating I couldnot use it at all due to a 5 month hectic schedule and being away from Mumbai. But at the same time, the new build demands that I should upgrade this as well along with the BB kit. As a gesture of goodwill, I am getting the whole exhaust checked for any rust formations and getting rid of it by polishing and electro plating if required. Plus getting the glasswool checked and refilled and also the rivets checked so that the new owner just has to plug and then start revving the nuts off his now soon to be stage I souped up ride.

Below are some of the images of the FFE before it heads for shipping:



Pic 1: Slight rust formation





Pic 2 & 3: Worker gave an acid treatment to the FFE to get the rust removed



Pic 4: Rust now completely gone post treatment, buffing and polishing



Pic 5: Notice the FFE now shining like crazy . The end cap is removed to get the glasswool repacking done. Inner baffle is completely there and free from rust now.



Pic 6: Another angle image of the Joel RC FFE with the end cap removed.



Pic 7: Close up of the end can and the inner baffle.



Pic 8: End can with the cap inside. The holes on the end can are the spots where using a riveting gun it will be sealed off after filling it up with glasswool.


I will take a call on whether I will go for a Leo Vince GP Corsa Aluminium, 304 grade FFE or a Joel RC stock replica exhaust which can be hidden inside the plastic encasing the stock exhaust has. I am pretty impressed with rider abhimanyu31's R16 now carrying a Leo Vince's exhaust which is very silent (with the DB killer on) and for my touring requirements will complement the BB set up just right. However, will take a call at an approriate time.

I have requested rider Joelkraju and abhimanyu31 to help me conduct the long due 0-100 kmph acceleration test using the GTech RR Pro GPS Data logger and Go Pro cam to put out a reading of the stock bike's performance before she goes for the heart surgery. Hopefully this should add a little spice to this thread and also give a perspective about the gains post installing the BB kit.

UPDATE:

As posted a few pages back the, Go pro video will have real time graphic display of the actual run in terms of acceleration Vs time taken and i will see if i can put in some other parameters. I shall put up pics of graphs of the power output witnessed from the stock bike with the stock exhaust an stock tires. As the bike has just clocked 650 kms since the last service some 15 days back, the test i believe can be considered valid with fresh oil running through the veins and all nuts and bolts tightened, lubed and greased as per required.


The final video output would be something like this:



Besides the data from the GPS data logger, I will also try and include all the techincal and environmental aspects like:

* Altitude.
* Road conditions: Plain or incline or decline.
* Ambient temperature + humidity readings at the time of the test.
* Gross weight of the bike + rider + fuel weight etc.

Hopefully this data would be good enough to make this test and the data reading much more tangible and believable too.

So stay tunes my fellow riders and Noobs.

Cheers,