Hello guys i m back to riding, i hope.

Hello guys,

I was to my native village all this time. My younger brother is deceased.
The family is still in grief of him departing so early. I still dont know what to write and what not.

My apologies to anyone who were expecting some answers or any details from me.
I hope to continue with OUR thread from now on and the support of the seniors alike.

Thank you all.

How much time it takes to reach 0-100
And how much does this modification cost?

Mate kindly, go through the first page of this thread. respecting tuners request regarding pricing please get in touch with joel at [email protected]

For 0-100 kmph timings as per Data logger you will have to wait for a bit. For a generic video of a fully souped up ride check out Rylan's video.

@N-o-v-i-c-e: My sincere condolences for you and your family. Please take your time.

Cheers,

My heart felt Condolences to your family on the loss of your brother....It must be really sad to loose some one so young and full of promise.May his soul rest in peace.

HI

Hey fellas,

So day before yesterday, after a long time of 40 days, i started my bike. It took some 8-10 cranks. Understandable.

But what lay ahead that day baffled me more. Rode it for 10km and thought of giving it a whoop.

The bike was behaving differently from the start. I mean the bike wasn't its usual.

The engine felt heavy and restricted. I thought it would've been coz of standing idle for so many days.

But even after a proper warm up it didn't loosen up.

I mean the bike was belting out complete stock feel. The rpm refused to climb linearly.

And beyond 5k rpm the engine was screaming like it was stressed enough.

The acceleration was down, response was slow.

All in all, maybe it was worse than the stock bike.

Now here i know the carb is the same stock one. But it wasn't this bad definitely.

I would like you people's perspectives on this one other than the carb.

I talked to Joel about this and he is busy with some office work. So he'll come here later.


I ordered for the bigger carb and its stuck in some stupid courier office coz of the holiday season.

cheers...

I suggest check the engine oil level and see. Has the engine oil lost its viscosity? check by putting a drop of engine oil in between you fingers and see if it is sticky or runny. If the engine oil is low then top it up with oil. Besides that i guess i would still advise to check the carb settings as that has been the root cause of having weird power shifts from 7k to 2 -3 rpm in your bike. I would recommend that you don't ride her hard till the problem has been identified and keep her at 4-5k rpm band. Better be safe.

29mm CV Carb is a must. I believe Joel has sent you with proper jet sized for the 180cc kit.

Cheers,

Yes there is the stock carb problem....i just thought of getting any other ideas.

The problem is more pronounced now. It was better earlier.

And i am not riding my bike much until i fix the bigger carb.

Joel had told me he would be shipping with the jets...dont know which ones though.

One thing is sure. The carb is a must for the big bore, even more if you have had the head ported.

I was already over my budget for this mod. I should have done the head porting and carb afterwards.

Atleast the big bore could have been ridden on the stock carb for a little more time.

Then i could have gone for the head work and bigger carb.

It seems their holidays are still not over. This time Joel sent it through some Overnite Express courier
instead of the usual DTDC.

This stupid agency has as single office for the whole town area of my side of the city.
While you can find DTDC in every nook and corner, literally.

O well, i will have to wait for the stupid courier agency till it decides to deliver me the carb.

cheers...

Hey Novice, My bike was behaving exactly like yours. I thinks it's because of tight tolerance of the piston. I couldn't do self-start for first 200 kms but after some 350-400 kms bike became good but it's still vibey than stock one. But all these can be compensated to the power.

The problem with me was bad fuel and the stock silencer where the 115 size jet which Joel suggests to all hasn't worked. Found out that Joel was trying 115 size jet and finally understood that it didn't work. Now I have the stock jet of TVS RTR 180 which is 125 size and the slide has been brought down from 3rd then 2nd and now to the 1st position. I had the big headache with the tuning but learnt lots of things in this due process.

I think I'm getting mileage of 35km/l right now. Bike is revving smooth after the change of the jet from 115 to 125 size but mileage has gone down from 45km/l to 28 km/l and now the jet being brought down to 1st position still I can see the spark plug in rich condition. I'm not going to look on mileage for another 600 kms as Shiv advised me. After 2000 kms ODO, if it doesn't work then I'd be asking Joel to source the 117.5 size jet which is perfect according to his calculations. Hope you and shiv will be helping me in this.

Please do pm me when you get the carb and the size of the jet.

Did you ride the bike with the same petrol it had 45 days ago?

if yes, you might want to go through the following link

http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/universa...torcycles.html Tip #1

@shv18 : I forgot to mention that i changed to Motul mineral oil as soon as i was back.


Yes, it was the same fuel. Cant throw out 500 bucks worth of gas, can we now???
Although how much of it is in there now is not known exactly.

@All - Is it really necessary to put those stabilizers or something? And if yes, give me some names please.

The bike IS vibey than stock. That is true. But i think it ought to get smooth after i start riding it regularly. I hope so.

Was the jet size 115 mikuni or kehin. I think both the company sizes do not correspond exactly.
And was this jet fitted on to your stock carb or the new 29mm carb.

Where did you get hold of the TVS main jet. Of course you need not worry about the mileage for at least the first 1000km.
But definitely there should not be huge variations.

We both will definitely help you with whatever we can. No worries.

cheers...

Hey Novice,

The Jet of 115 size was Mikuni. And this jet was fitted not to my stock carb but to the new 29mm Carb.

I got TVS Main jet very difficultily from TVS SVC and it was the stock size 125 of 29mm cv carb.

I have already crossed 1500 km and mileage is getting only 32 km/l and engine is running very rich, I have checked the spark plug. The money is getting wasted.

Joel assured me that he would be providing me the right size jet.

Please you guys also can search in mumbai. This size jet from 117.5-120 is very difficult to get.

Cheers

From what i have read from various forums, the petrol does deteriorate... Give it a shot.. add some stabilizers.. If you go down the same thread referred earlier , it says that the stabilizers are available in most petrol bunks.

The vibes in most bikes can be ironed out by having the perfect AFR. Even i contemplated on changing the jet size for my big bore (230CC Pulsar). All my mechanic did was add another washer to lift the needle jet and run the carb a little rich. It works like a dream now. Smooth acceleration, addictive pickup. All its missing is a good suspension setup and a sixth gear.. its all a matter of finding the right person to do it for you.

Good observation mate . N-o-v-i-c-e, bro why don't you treat her once with System G and speed 97. should clean up your bike's fuel lines and then you can see if you are witnessing the same problem. System G 10 ml/15 ml pouch will cost you around 15-30 bucks INR. Good to know that you are taking a proper care of her. If you by any chance had checked her used engine oil, most likely you may have seen small shiny particulates in the engine oil. Keep an eye on the engine oil level periodically after running say for another 300-400 kms.

Once you cross 1000 kms, you can opt for Motul 300V 15W 50 Double ester FS oil. You can ride her normally, just don't wring the throttle too hard. Follow the instructions mentioned on the 1st page of this thread. Post 2000 kms you can go insane. However, change the carburetor from stock BS 26 to the 29mm CV carb sent to you by RC before you intend to go crazy as running the engine on lean tune for extended periods is not recommended and may seriously damage it. In our case the custom jet settings provided from RC's end will work just fine as fuel quality is not a problem in Pune and Mumbai and most of Maharashtra.

Jonahmano's ride was giving problem mostly because of bad fuel. He was experiencing flat spots and the ride running a bit rough. So the next step was to detune the engine and reduce the overall compression. The same was achieved by:

a) Adding an extra lower paper gasket to increase the volume of the cylinder marginally and thus reducing the overall compression ratio of the engine.

b) Trying different positions of the slide of the carb to increase or reduce the flow of the fuel to the cylinder and figure out which setting was giving the most reasonable AFR and reducing flat spots.

c) Rejetting the carburetor which will take a bit of time and patience to readjust and tune properly. I feel most likely after 2000 kms, if his ride is still giving FE in the range of 30-38 kmpl under sedate riding conditions then after consulting with Joel, RC he may opt for 117.5 or bigger jet size to hit the final nail and tune it properly. The overall vibrations will reduce as he starts clocking more kms.

Primary problem with Jonah's case has been that the system has been designed to run on normal 91RON pump gas which according to him is not available in Cochin. Though i cannot verify the same.

Anyways, I guess Joel had instructed Jonahmano to attempt different settings to get the AFR tune correct. Unlike popular misconception, tuning is not that simple and does take time. It is greatly affected by the atmospheric changes in altitude, air temperature, humidity and other factors. Noobs, you may verify the same by observing this phenomenon: on certain days, when the temperatures are low and the atmospheric conditions hit a particular level; you will notice that your ride performs really well and the engine is very smooth and hits the red line very fast. Plus the overall FE is also good. This happens because the atmospheric conditions are exactly right thus, the engine AFR hits stoich mixture throughout the rev range.

The same is not the case in modern FI (fuel injected) bikes as there is a small electronic brain read ECU, which automatically adjusts the AFR according to the change in weather and temperature. That's why if one checks out the trip logs in the touring section; all carb'ed bikes at some point of time after hitting very high altitudes had to be lean tuned to get the correct AFR as per the atmospheric conditions whereas the modern FI bikes were running around absolutely fine under the same atmospheric conditions!!

If i remember correctly, senior rider abhimanyu31 had mentioned to me once that there is a special tuning spark plug as well which is transparent and shows the AFR reading. It is used abroad by a lot of speed enthusiasts thus, making tuning carbs a much simpler and easy process. Probably he can throw a light on the same topic.

Cheers,

Nice to get a name for the fuel internals cleaning agent...will look for it tomorrow.

Regarding the Motul FS oil, i will put it in only after winter has passed by here. By that time think i would have completed mu run-in.

The problem is definitely the smaller stock BS26 car for this over sized setup. I am hoping the internals are not already damaged by running lean for this much time(250-300km).

The funny thing is when i changed the oil, i didnt see any fine metal particles. Now i dont know whether its good workmanship of the block piston or that the particles went somewhere else.

If jonahmano main problem is bad fuel then its gonna be a long and tedious task of tuning. I know it better now than anybody here. Trust me.
Not that we have bad fuel here in Pune but only with the BS26 giving me a hard time to tune.

And even now the fueling is erratic. The spark plug is showing signs of rich and lean mixture on either side of it.
The stock BS26 is really insufficient for this setup.

I think jonahmano got the same BS29 we get. Maybe if he plays a little with needle settings by fitting the 115 jet, i think it should do the trick. 125 jet size seems far too rich for our fueling needs. Just my opinion.

Today i personally picked up the carb sent by Joel from that f***g stupid courier agency Overnite Express. I dont know if its good elsewhere or not.
But its a real piece of excreta here. Joel had sent it on the 10th of this month and even today they had an excuse ready for me that the delivery boy
is not back from Diwali holidays.

I was dumbstruck and like WTF? I really lost it and gave him a piece of my mind and asked whether the delivery boy is celebrating Diwali in Hawaii or what???
Of course the company would have sent him there for his excellent delivery record.

I couldnt get it fixed today after the whole episode of first searching for the office of that stupid courier agency for 2 hours and then waiting another
half an hour till the attendant searched for the parcel.

Will get it fixed in the morning and then i think it would be heaven on earth or rather hell on wheels for others.

cheers...

I haven't played with needle settings. All the operations were directed from the master Joel himself. The fact is that I don't have the FFE and that's my main problem. Tried lifting up the needle to all possible positions with the 115 size and nothing worked. Then Joel asked me get a 117.5 size jet. Searched two cities of kerala and couldn't get one. Finally got the stock 125 size from a TVS service center. Now the needle is on first position after reducing from second but there is no change in the real mileage claimed. Waiting for Joel to source the right sized jet so that my ride gets normal. Now with 32-33 km/l, I feel like driving a car. You rip or ride sane it won't give you more than 32 km/l.

If you can help me in sourcing 117.5 size jet in Pune then please do PM me so that I can do with the finances.