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Your wiring circuit is correct right. Other than that no idea why this happened. I do get a lower voltage at idle with headlight ON. This is because headlight takes power from the battery and the coil can not charge it enough. But lower voltage without any load too? That's strange. -
Problem continues...
While testing i removed the battery from its place and connected a bulb and the rectifier. I tested it like this for 20mins and there was no heating issue or anything and the battery was charging @ 13.xx volts where as the battery had 12.7x volts current.
Now the story begins
I connected the battery to its regular wires, also connected the rectifier behind a switch so that i can turn on only during night.
Tested the charging voltage in different stages and here is the report.
Stock Charging Volt with Headlight OFF --> 13.8 to 14.2
Stock Charging Volt with Headlight ON --> 12.8 to 13.2
Rectifier + Stock Charging Volt with Headlight OFF --> 12.2 to 12.5
Rectifier + Stock Charging Volt with Headlight ON --> 12 to 12.2
Isn't it strange that when i turn ON the rectifier the power is dropping instead of increasing.
Now should i proceed with it or not!!!
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Final Rectifier
Final rectifier tested for 20mins and there was no heat in any parts. 13.xx was the charging voltage i was getting. Hope it lasts long without any hitch
Abhijeet test your resistor design and let me know soon where to connect it.
Thank you Rahul & Abhijeet for your support
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He he.. The only thing i always do right is checking polarity
Was not in station so couldn't check it up. Today probably i will do it.
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Yes, as Abhi said, check the polarity of the Capacitor. But BTW in my case the Caps do heat up a lot, may be because of the diodes it self. Just be sure the circuit if fine.As i said earlier i am getting 25v output but as Abhijit said if connected tightly it should work fine. And the heat of cap is normal itseems, that was the first time i touched the cap and i felt that was abnormal
Now thinking of a good casing to mount it and connect to battery, i tested it for 15mins and it was fine except the cap getting heat. So will mount the cap also on heat sink and test for 30mins and then fit it as finally.Leave a comment:
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You are sure about the cap polarity? It should not heat up, unlike diodes! They can even explode when connected improperly.Originally posted by Shreeni0403 View Posti tested it for 15mins and it was fine except the cap getting heat. So will mount the cap also on heat sink and test for 30mins and then fit it as finally.
Look here for polarity -
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As i said earlier i am getting 25v output but as Abhijit said if connected tightly it should work fine. And the heat of cap is normal itseems, that was the first time i touched the cap and i felt that was abnormalOriginally posted by rahuldevnath View Post
Now thinking of a good casing to mount it and connect to battery, i tested it for 15mins and it was fine except the cap getting heat. So will mount the cap also on heat sink and test for 30mins and then fit it as finally.
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What's your current status? Is it working?Originally posted by Shreeni0403 View Post40 Bucks for 4 diodes
Cap price i dunno, i paid 15rs so might 10rs more for 10v higher capacity
I will re-assemble everything today and give a try tomorrow with my old battery. I think i will never end up with working model, so my bike was running without any skin on it for few daysLeave a comment:
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40 Bucks for 4 diodesOriginally posted by abhijeet080808 View PostI got the 6A4 at 10 per piece, capacitor at 30 (but it was 35V)! This is what happens in smaller towns! I thought it was priced high, but all shops here quoted similar price. Also brought 4m wire at 20 per meter and clips for connecting.
Cap price i dunno, i paid 15rs so might 10rs more for 10v higher capacity
I will re-assemble everything today and give a try tomorrow with my old battery. I think i will never end up with working model, so my bike was running without any skin on it for few days
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I got the 6A4 at 10 per piece, capacitor at 30 (but it was 35V)!Originally posted by Shreeni0403 View Post It didn't cost me even 50rs.
To be precise
6A4 - 3rs X 4 - 12rs
Capacitor 25v 4700uf - 15rs
Heat Sink - Plucked it from blown SMPS of my desktop
Plastic Tape and other things - 20rs
__________________________________________________ ______ This is what happens in smaller towns! I thought it was priced high, but all shops here quoted similar price. Also brought 4m wire at 20 per meter and clips for connecting.
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Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post It didn't cost me even 50rs.
To be precise
6A4 - 3rs X 4 - 12rs
Capacitor 25v 4700uf - 15rs
Heat Sink - Plucked it from blown SMPS of my desktop
Plastic Tape and other things - 20rs
__________________________________________________ ______Leave a comment:
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Same Setup on my 180 UG3, with heat sinks. After final assembly. This box houses the above shown rectifier plus a relay specifically for UG3
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Just In Case of Pulsar UG3 variants of 150, 180 and 200.
The BCU in these bike do not allow the bike to be on DC and make use of self starter simultaneously. Only way out is put a switch or a relay.
Last edited by rahuldevnath; 05-26-2009, 01:20 AM.Leave a comment:
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