@Abhijeet Bhattacharjee, let me tell u one thing, pls type the words fully as much as possible atleast avoid the junk language usage, its good for the easy reading and better understanding of ur queries too. So pls follow that. We all like to conclude the things in short, but that should be convayed properly else, whats the point in postings Right?

coming to ur query, if u are going to use a stock 35W halo only the RR (XCD/Pulsar UG4 or any DC lighting RR will do) is required from the components end. Rest is re routing the wires.

Yes u are right, GND is earth and once u bolt the RR to the body no need of connect the earth it as the chassis is acting as earth. But the RR has got a earth wire to be bolted along with the RR.

Always stick to an OEM which offers a troublefree ride and stop worrying about the other queies, but if u are confident that u can make it then go ahead with that. Go through the full thread surely u will get an idea of what to do, Goodluck.

Gurus, plz HELP!!

I own a Discover 135 (analog speedo). I want 2 switch 2 all D.C. m gonna use my stock 35/35 h/l & d bike is fully stock. wats ur final verdict, shud i go 4 it?

Here r a few ques, plz answer.
1. Components 4r d custom rectifier, is der any chng 4 my bike?

2. I suppose 'GND' (circuit diag) is 'ground' i.e. the earthed wire. Am i supposed 2 connect it 2 d custom rect bolt?

3. Custom rectifier circuit, r we gonna connect d -ve dc wire 2 earth?

4. The 'bleeder resistance', am i supposed 2 connect it in series aft d capacitor?

5. Which yellow wire m i supposed 2 connect my rectifier 2, d 1 wid a red line, i.e. Yellow wire wid a red line?

Cn i plz hv ur fone no, in case i need some help.
Thanx in advance!!

Assuming that ur P200 is a UG4, DC lighting, has got a BCU. It has some limitations to enhance the charging rate as the BCU is very sensitive one, so tackle that is not that easy. U can try with the coil rewinding and RR swap but it may refused by the BCU. The best option for a better lighting is go for 35W bixen HID is a direct fit for ur bike, and no other alterations for this. If u use a Halo HID combi, dont forget to change the halo to a 35W very rare to source though else, u may end up with batt drain and left alone in pitch darkness.

hi everyone i have a p200 and am not happy with the 35w setup need something much more brighter i have read some post and they suggest me towards avy 180 coil and stator plate so it gives a output of 55w correct me if wrong.but is my battery charging at the same rate at which its utilised or its draining because had used 55w bulb within 15 min battery is drained and horn becomes dim etc. had to push start the bike really pissed me off . so to run a 55w setup happily what should i do bec i mostly ride at night . ???????

guys really need ur comment on this one. pls help

Thanks Abhi, seems it makes some sense to me atleast for now

Of course, current does matter. But, when you apply a fixed voltage to a battery having a certain fixed charge, it will only take a certain amount of current. If you feed it from a weak coil, or a strong coil does not matter. Only thing is that the coil should supply atleast the minimum current demanded by the battery.

In a simple way, Voltage = Current x Resistance (ohm's law). If the battery resistance and our voltage is fixed, the current too will be fixed.

This is the best I can explain!

Wow thats something worth to read Abhi, but no word on why these OEMs sticks to mean amps range than a full throttle of current produced from the alt? Bit confused still. I understand that the voltage has a significant role in charging at the same time does the current also have same importance in this? Like you pointed about the 100Kv eg, I've another thing to dig, its just like we use thick wires for higher current conductivity. We know the difference in using a thick wire and puny wire perfo. Likewise, does the current makes the diff in charging? Sorry if I make a blunt statement. I think u can gimme a simple briefing on this.

Look, if we keep a battery at its normal voltage of 13.8V, it will take current only if it is not fully charged. If the voltage is fixed, it doesn't matter how powerful the source is. The current is fixed.

The more heavily discharged it is, the more current it will consume. So, if we connect a fully discharged battery to 13.8V, it will consume very high current which can explode the battery. So, in case of a discharged battery we need to limit the current nominally to 10% of the Ah rating.

Suppose, we increase this voltage to above 13.8V. The current flow will increase again and this may heat up the battery. This current is of no use to the battery, as it is already 100% charged. So, it is given off as heat. This evaporates the water in the battery and you need frequent top ups.

So, when is this high voltage needed? Its only benefit is to charge up a weak battery quickly. A 14.x V source can charge up a battery quicker than a 13.8V source. But, after the battery has finished charging, the voltage needs to be decreased. This is what exactly happens in an home inverter or battery charger when trickle charge is activated.

Now, why does manufacturer fix the voltage level in the RR unit to 14V often? This is to quick charge a battery after the starter uses up some of the charge. But this is harmful in the long run after the battery gets fully charged. On the other hand, a 13.8V source will need some time to charge, hence the battery may not be fully charged by the next time you need to use the starter.

So, best for the battery - 13.8V, best for you - 14.x V! And power source does not matter.

That is the way voltage is. It does not matter if you connect you connect a 220V bulb light to a 100kV electric station or a home generator. If voltage applies is a proper 220V, it will not burst!

None of these RR have this function to my knowledge as it feeds only on a healthy rate it wont hurt the batt.

And for the Ammeter reading, its just an indicator, if the batt chrg/dischrg only it will show+/-, else, no activity It cant show the batt is full or not.
While charging we assume that its not full.

I think the stock RR Unit also takes care of cutting off the power, am not sure with the APE RR unit.

I am telling this with respect to AMMETER indication. Once battery is full the Ammeter needle used to settle in middle (no charge/discharge).

Abhi, we've increased the bat charging rate to its max, will if affect the batt life? If not why the OEM is not coming with a better charging rate? Its not a costly affair too. I heard from somewhere that a healthy charging rate is 10% of the cap of the batt. After reaching to the full charge, it wont take any more but the charger is forcing irrespective of the levels. In home invertors there's a circuit to cut off the batt charger to avoid overcharging, any possibility to adopt? Pls comment.

Abhi's right, it should be then a AC CDI, without batt and RR how will the DC CDI will work? But its not our current concern, u need to boost the batt for that your latest diagram is correct. Pull out the grounding and manage somehow to take out a wire for that from the stator cover and feed these two wires directly to the new RR without using the stock harness. Connect the other ends to batt and gnd. Done, DONT FORGET TO MEASURE THE OUTPUT BEFORE SWITCHING ANYTHING.

I'll PM my contact details to u now. Sorry for the delay I was off for 2 days. R u still confused with what I've done? Its not that complex, once u have the basic awareness, any one can follow like me, am from commerce field. Defnitly u've it, else u wont come up with these

Abhi suggested something like this...

Well, if it starts without Battery as well as RR unit, your CDI seems to be AC CDI. In that case, this diag may be wrong. Please confirm by comparing some important wires' colour codes as see if they match! Better start looking at the wires from the CDI. Are they the same as here?

MY BIKE WILL START WITHOUT BATTERY.
IT WILL START EVEN WITHOUT RR UNIT.

PM YOUR EMAIL ID, I SHALL MAIL U MUCH CLEAR WIRING DIAGRAM.
NO CLUE !! NOT IN MANUAL!!

WHEN DID HH WEBSITE STARTED GIVING INFO ON UNI