Ok.. but ur load is 130W and 8A supply is 8x12 = 96W.

About the resistor values, tell me what colour LEDs do you want to use?



I sanded the top of each LED flat and glued using feviquik. One LED each below 0, 20, 40, 60 etc..

Why do we need the stock RR any more if this big RR can feed the batt without any issues? This is capable of pumping a whopping 8A @ 4K to the batt from my 100W (I would say 100+ as it was feeding 2 position lights of 5W+all console lights of 4X1.4W+3WX3+ 100/90 + 4w for number plate and tail light of 5W , so just count it. Min of 130W!!)stator coil. So I dismantled it from my bike. Am afraid to count how much I've puffed off for my 5 year old P.Everything is from batt now and no struggles so far. My batt coil is idle now, I can reserve this for any other purpose later on.

I've done some electrical changes to switches earlier to take the load off from the stock switches by using relays. I've changed the right H side switch module recently and I swapped it with PUG4 model, its got another switch, with that use the spots from the handle bars. So no extra switches hanging, mounted. All loads are connected through relays, I think I've used 4 SPDT relays to tackle this.

Abhi, whats the ideal volt for a LED to glow to its full brightness? I would like to go in for your console mod, looks so cool. Howmany LEDs u've used for each console? Let me have some details of the resistor values.

So, finally, you use an APE RR unit for the AC coil and the stock RR unit for the DC coil. Both connected to the battery. Correct?

Abhi, you need more infos on what? I've detailed everything I've done on my earlier post. Anything specific?

The custom rectifier converts AC to DC. So, now you can use 35W HID.

60/55W can work. Just that you will have to try and see if TVS electricals are strong enough. If RTR uses DC CDI, performance can potentially decrease if the battery discharges badly.

If you want 60/55, and do not mind dimming at idle, use LEDs in place of tail lamp and see. That will save about 10W. Else, try this rectifier and see.

If you are least bothered about the flickering, why do you want to make it all DC and mess of it. TVS is always good for their electical side, am quite confident of supporting a 55/60W from the magneto itself. My first bike was as Samurai was having 55/60W Philps which was glowing like a plasma without any mods in magneto. So defnitly it will support this too. So your batt is purely reserved for the starter and horns etc. will last the batt life too. Boosting the charging rate surely affects the batt life, and using a 55/60 on batt will require intensive charging than an HID.

So, what is the use of the custom rectifier, and the setup I have already did with my bike? My main moto was to use a 55/60 for better headlight. I was not very much concerned about flickering 35/35 over magneto.
What are the other option left to use 55/60 without hampering the horn sound. Please suggest.
In RTR CDI draws the current direct from battery, not from the magneto like pulsars, will using a 55/60 bulb hamper the performence of the bike also as it is draws more current then 35/35?

Yes, this custom rectifier (not RR unit btw!) is just for that purpose only!

But use 35/35 bulb. Anything higher may drain the batt.

@sajanjosepht
So, finally what are the mods done? Please give us a summary.

Avhijeet, I have converted my apache RTR to full DC yesterday (with the help of our fellow xbhp member "NOX"). I have connected a direct DC power using a 12v 30amp relay. Now my headlamp (55/60) tail lamp, console everything runs on DC. Every thing is OK, apart from when the headlight is on and press the horn button it sound bit sluggish, not as sharp when the H/L is off. I fear that it will drain the battery.

My point is that I have disconnected the AC power which goes to H/L from the RR unit. So the AC power which used to feed the H/L is now jobless. Can I use this AC power to charge the battery faster? If yes should your custom RR unit will do the job?

Thanks Abhi, Getting a wiring diagram of 220 is difficult and so is the other diesel engine's. But I have solved the issue with the junk yard goody. Previously I've connected the inputs and the ground and checked any current is coming by just shorting and checking with meter but no activity from there. Yesterday I've connected the + out to the batt directly and checked, while touching the battery with the + out of the RR I saw sparks that shows something is from there. I connected it and checked the current output WOWW a whopping 8A @ 4K pumping to the batt!!. With that I've ridden 1.20 min yesterday with HID on fully. I was very generous in using my twin horns (Roots Vibrasonic 3.5AX 2)which was roaring as if it is connected to a higher amps batt, till yesterday it was crying after 40 mins with HID. I tried my twin spots (H3 55WX2) for a 10 mins, no issues, nothing is touching my 2 year old stuff. My batt stays cool. This morning I started with with self like anyother day, its cool!! Charging volt is 13.5-14 max @ 4k. I was really jumping like a kid, after a long time, I just found it and the 50% credit it to you Abhi, from your inspiration only I've gone for this. Thanks a lot for this.


I think I need a few more days to confirm the success, but I am fully confident in this as of now no wires are heating and the RR is also stays cool as if it can handle more power, its just warm and I can not call it as hot.

You will get the same voltage after ungrounding too. It is the power that will increase.

If you try any RR unit, first get the electrical connection diagram of that vehicle. It is important. These electronics will not work if you just connect them! Get the diagram of P220 and I can help you.

HI Abhi, Am back again after a few days break. As you adviced, I've ungrounded the light coil and tried to re route it to the RR. I am getting the prev AC volt after getting isolation. This time I tried a new 3 wheeler RR from APE but to my surprise, it didnt worked. Its got 2 AC out and one + and - wire. I've connected the inputs and the ground wire, no output. I've grounded one AC wire like in the stock condition and connected again.wow, its working but... 5V DC...... I got this RR from the junk, so I tried with a brand new, bad luck, it shows the same. Fotunately I got my money back for the new one. Abhi, do you have any idea in this? RR unit circuit which I've assembled is no more working after some trials so I disposed. I got a chance to check with an XCD RR. connected the RR but there also the Amps limitation as the stock RR is supposed to feed only a 35W so no more expectations from the new P180 also as its also having the same bulb. Now I am looking for a chance with P220 RR, will make a hole of Rs.700, but am ready to take part. Before that any suggestions?

No, not that rectifier. I made a custom RR Unit (not rectifier only, regulator + rectifier) which replaced the stock one. Used it with the custom Stator Coil.

Cool .
thanks 4 ur replies mate.
Well 9 ah is big .
If u could point out a procedure , it would really help us all .
You used the same rectifier that you made and then upgraded the coil.
Or again made some custom rectifier n a coil .

pardon my ignorance here if i talk something wrong .

No, I have a 1 yr old exide 9Ah battery. No power loss is felt. Anyways to put things into perspective, 100 watts = 0.134102209 hp. It is not really felt!!!