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Converted my Pulsar 150 Classic to ALL DC
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Thanks Abhijeet for all the help.BTW i thought u'd be using HID.
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No, it runs fine.. I used it for a month though with a 60/55W h/l. Nowadays running a 100/90 h/l with custom coil and RR unit..
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No il rather make it myself.Long time since i made any ckt!
BTW just wondering since the o/p of Custom Rectifier and the O/p of Stock rectifier is plainly shorted at the bat terminals there aint any loading effect(or any other electric anomaly) on any of the ckts??(few months back i had replace the RR unit after smoke started coming from it , the reason for which till date i have no clue about!)
Last edited by RascalAngel; 10-01-2009, 10:25 PM.
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Yeah you are correct this time. And since yours is a UGII, you dont need a relay or a DPDT!
You just need to make the Rectifier. And, nowadays, you get bridge rectifier as a single unit, which you can just connect. No need to make any circuit like I had done.
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Actually i want to run my H/L on DC.my bike is Pulsar 150 DTSi 2004 model(UG2 i guess).
From what u've said in ur last post i have modified the image.
P.S. My apologies if im getting on ur nerve.just that i want to be clear on what is to be done before i get my hands dirty!
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Actually there are two coils in the bike. Both are connected to the RR unit. The RR unit gives 2 output, one to battery (DC) and one to h/l (AC). We take this AC o/p from RR unit to h/l, convert it to DC using the custom RR unit and connect this one too to the battery. Now, battery has 2 power sources. Now, we connect the h/l wire from RR unit AC output to battery. Got it?
The DPDT switch and the relay is needed only for P180UGIII, else the BCU does not function properly. Its connection is given in the first page.
Anyways tell me what is it that you want to do and which bike?Last edited by abhijeet080808; 10-01-2009, 09:51 PM.
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@ Abhijeet
Im lost dude!!!
Btw below pics illustrate my understanding so far. Do point out wherever im wrong.
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The custom RR unit feeds the battery and the battery feeds the h/l. This is not the same as coil feeding the h/l. If the engine is not running, the batt discharges slowly!Originally posted by RascalAngel View PostSo basically the tapping is done to the coil and using a custom rectifier the same is fed to the headlight? in that case why there is the problem of bat discharging as mentioned in some of the posts? since AFAI understand the bat is not in pic. then.
and in such a case what hapens when the engine is not running?
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So basically the tapping is done to the coil and using a custom rectifier the same is fed to the headlight? in that case why there is the problem of bat discharging as mentioned in some of the posts? since AFAI understand the bat is not in pic. then.
and in such a case what hapens when the engine is not running?
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They can be conencted directly to battery. But the battery ckt is not powerful enough to run them together. So, it needs power from the AC circuit which is what we have done!Originally posted by RascalAngel View PostWhy install a new ckt?why cant the headlight, Tail lamp be connected to existing DC o/p?
@ Rahul
The switch(spdt) connected in ur ckt diag needs to on/off when starting(to use elec. starter) and opposite when running headlight on DC?
P.S. what does UG3 stands for?
UG3 means Pulsar Upgrade 3. (Basically the Pulsars with digital speedo.)
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Why install a new ckt?why cant the headlight, Tail lamp be connected to existing DC o/p?Abhijeet:
In stock condition, the headlight, tail lamp and pilot lamp (parking), console lamps runs on AC. Rest of the stuffs - horn, indicators, tachometer, brake lamp, tell tale lamps, fuel meter and the starter motor runs on DC through the battery.
@ Rahul
The switch(spdt) connected in ur ckt diag needs to on/off when starting(to use elec. starter) and opposite when running headlight on DC?
P.S. what does UG3 stands for?
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Well, I thought Zma has a single phase RR unit. If it is really 3 phase, then its not suitable!
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I differ Abhi at least in my case as ZMA RR wont suit as its a 3 phase one, defnitly we will get some output but I doubt its not capable of extracting full juice out of a single phase alternator. ZMA's contribution is from 3 phase so defnetly a powerful one and considering the cost factors, ZMA will be the last option. Yday I went to the junk yard to get an RR unit of 3 wheelers but wasted time, zero availability. May be next time hopefully. I found some fine projectors really seductive but its nearly 4-5K for the whole assy and they dont've the lens alone.Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View PostDude, he is only putting a higher capacity charger. He will use it with his custom 100/90 stator coil. This stator coil has one coil only, which can be used for DC with any capable RR unit, incl Zma.
His bike is P150 DTSi UGI.
Sreeni, my stock RR is capable of giving 3.4A @4K but its not enough to feed my HID, the meter shows -1A after the HID stablization time. So defnitly need a higher ratting charger. Am commuting at night at least 1hr, which is not fully supporting with the existing setup, batt dies within 40mins and next morning I've kick start. Ofcourse, my battery is getting fried but before getting a new one, I have to sort out this. Every RR unit should have AC input to make a DC out but in my case Pulsar is only single phase. My HID is a H/L with the solenoid, so no need of two bulb. Did I say that? I use an aux lamp to ride after the batt drains which is mounted on the crash guard.
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