I didn't understand Head or Tail.
I want your number and mail address, i already have Abhi's.

The stator power is not really affected. But a DC CDI will have enough power at idle rpm to fire the spark plug evenly while a AC CDI may have problem. Thats it. So, a DC CDI will result in more efficient sparks at lower rpms. But, the DC CDI depends on the battery health too.

Sreeni, can you please confirm that Uni has DC CDI. It should be mention in the specifications part of the manual.

According to HH website. Uni has Digital CDI! Who knows what that is!

Yeah right, I figured out after ur tip, thanks Abhi. If its from his mannual we've to accept it. What are the pros and cons of AC/DC CDI's? Beeing a DC CDI, stator will've more power than AC types? due to the absence of AC coil for CDI?

Sreeni, have u tried to start ur bike without batt by kicker? I think its possible if RR is present.

Oh really? let'm say

The thing to the right of the coil is the pulsar coil for ignition, to the left is the freaking neutral indicator. And this is a DC CDI.

Sreeni has shown me this diag before too. I told him at that time that this is not from an Uni. He tells me its from his manual. Now, Uni has a freaking DC CDI?! No way!

And, in case of my wiring, I used 2 separate thicker wires from the 2 ends of the coil. Did not use any stock wires.

And, oh, he is asking for your contact details!

Diag is not full and clear so I cant figure out correctly. Then wats next to the magneto coil (wire from magneto indicated as light) See the full diag, stator sec. pulse coil to CDI (DC CDI!! this wont start without a batt like bulls?) the left most, center coil is the batt coil I hope, and the third coil shown separatly is named as light. See that? Take a zoom view.

How did u take out the coil lead out and routed to RR?, I checked with the harness, the black wire to the RR was grounded within the harness. Evenif you ungrounded and using the stock harness to connect the new RR, in effect its grounded. Thus I took a seperate wire from the coil socket directly to the RR.

This bike has a single stator coil. No separate AC, DC at the coil. (Look at the diag). Only the RR unit does that separation. So, you will need a separate extra wire.

Obiviously its grounded as you can see from the diag. Sreeni you have to disconnect the stock RR and the batt negative terminal( we've to check the voltage and amps from the RR before connecting to the circuit) Bolt the new RR to a convient place along with the earth wire from the RR. To get a full wave bridge, u need to isolate the grounding of the light coil and take the lead out by using any of the batt charging coil wire as we dont require it any more. Hope u got it what I meant. Am I right Abhi? Dont worry about the identifying the light wires, you need to open the stator cover for isolating the grounding, that time you can have a close look and count with the higher no of poles, that is our boy. Rest of it are pretty straight, Feed these two leads of light coil straight away to the new RR. (Lead colour will be the same for the AC wires). There is one more wire ie. the +ve output connect it to the batt switch in the ignition switch. Thats it, check the voltage and current with a meter if its between 13-14.5 and the current should be more than 5A u are done. Connect the -ve terminal once u are ok with the readings. Always make sure that you are not making short lenghthed any of the wires coming out of the coil for connecting the other light coil (By doing so, any time you can go back to the stock wiring by undoing these all) Never pull out any wires from that harness as the water can easily get into the stator and u will end up in a thick soup.

U want my email and contact no or Abhi's? Confirm it. This will work as the general electrical systems are almost alike.

^^ Hey, there are 2 wires, G and W from the coil. In you MS paint diagram, it has only one wire. Is the G wire grounded?

Edit : I guess so! Y is AC o/p, R is DC o/p at the RR unit. IMO, the G needs to be ungrounded from the stator coil plate. And another wire needs to be used for the second connection from the coil. Let is be B.

Now, as for the connections, B, W will be input to the RR unit. And there will be 2 output. One is grounded. The other should be connected to Y as well as R.

YES, I have specific doubts

I am posting the Unicorn wiring diagram and a image which for which i used MSPAINT. That shows how the setup is in Unicorn now. Edit and repost, how should i connect it. Also plz PM me your contact number and email address

RR Unit (U reply here)


RR Unit


Unicorn Wiring (Full)

My replies in bold.

Use of custom RR is to boost the batt charging, else, u could use the stock RR. If u want more power from the stock coil, u've to sacrifice some existing load by using LED to console lighting. Or go for stator rewinding to make it a 100W. Flicker free lighting is only from DC lighting but the brightness will be more with AC lighting as the Stock RR restricts full current and volt to maintain batt health.

There are lot of fools who doesnt know what they are doing atleast. Dont listen to thoses idiots and judge urself with logic and act accordingly. A KB100 RR is supposed to feed a batt of 2.5A, so think about it before going for it. I think you should go through these forums from the first to get a an outline about these.

Ok, So, as per your last reply, I should disconnect all the new setup I did in my bike and use this custom rectifier in place. Disconnect the AC line from the rectifier which feed the headlight at stock condition, and route it through custom rectifier to make it DC and then connect it to the headlight wire. So, in this case this custom rectifier will not provide any extra charge to battery and only the headlight will receive constant DC power, without flickering. This way my battery will get normal load and the horn & CDI acts normally. Correct me if any thing wrong.

But will I be able to use 55/60 in this new setup? Because the AC power was for only 35/35 bulb and the tale light and console. I have already converted the tell lamp and the console to direct battery and they are all LED. So the only load is headlight. After doing this conversation previously I tried using a 55/60 through the AC, the light was very poor at idle and was not in its full potential even in high RPM.



I am bit confused now. Which option should I go for, My motto is to use a 55/60 bulb without degrading the performance of the bike or the horn. Please suggest something.

Thanks ya, ledcalc.com is very useful.

U've a PM

I have removed the green coating by using acetone. (Nail polish remover) And, its blue LEDs here.

For resistors, see ledcalc.com. Blue is very catchy, white is classy. And, it is the mobile camera. Everything is visible!

Abhi, I was just calculating the old setup, now you've to deduct the 65W from as I've replaced 100/90 with 35W HID. And am not an expert like you in this, all I know is everything are fine now and me too

Does the colour matters or size and nos? I'v got green backside coating so which one u suggest? I fine with ur config of nos LEDs. Which is that blue or white? Its very cool, but I think white will be good for green back ground.

How about the odo and trips? Nothing on that side? I feel something is required badly as the counters are not clearly visible.

Sanding will disburse the light more evenly, I've seen some LED lamps with translucent covers like that. Right?