I just got an alternate idea, just check this wiring and let me know whether its possible.
1st one is the stock wiring and the 2nd is what i am thinking of doing.
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A little busy and i am unable to spend time for my bike
I just got an alternate idea, just check this wiring and let me know whether its possible.
1st one is the stock wiring and the 2nd is what i am thinking of doing.
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I don't know what to make of all this!Originally posted by Shreeni0403 View PostI have problem only when i use Horn, probably my ROOTs horn is consuming more but even when i honk headlight doesn't go dull even a bit, probably bcz i am using RELAY's for my headlight.
I have console & tail light on LED, Brake Light is bulb which i never used while testing
Just a confusing update
Real time testing
When Headlight is ON and Rectifier is OFF - Horn sounds OK
When Headlight is ON and Rectifier is ON - Horn sounds sluggish
But sometimes when Headlight is ON and Rectifier is ON - Horn sounds normal like when Headlight is OFF
Now what is the funda behind the Horn working fine sometimes??
Somehow i have a doubt that my ROOT's are consuming more power.
Thinking to put Stock horn and try. Is the battery holding up ok? If yes, then I guess the circuit is working.
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What I meant to say that, even after full wave rectification there's so much ripples, that relay doesn't work, it chatters as you say.It means your headlight runs off AC as relays do not work with AC. You may also hear the relay "chattering" if you run it off AC. So, you are getting 42V AC at the headlight. I have no idea what is happening!
It could be the case, but that's exactly the same thing happening to my friends P150UG3. Nevertheless, my bike runs of DC, and some how 42V of charging current through my custom rectifier, doesn't damage the battery, or at least gives me 2 years of life!voltage regulator is used for magneto in all bikes which has a battery charging coil and a loading generator coil, voltage regulator has a voltage divider to detect a voltage proportional to a terminal voltage of battery, second it has a voltage divider to detect a voltage proportional to output voltage of the loading generator coil; and third a controlled rectifier to short circuit the battery charging generator coil and adapted to be conductive when either of the voltages detected by the first and second voltage dividers is greater than a predetermined value... the reason its giving you 42v is the regulator isnt functioning.. check n replace..Leave a comment:
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I have problem only when i use Horn, probably my ROOTs horn is consuming more but even when i honk headlight doesn't go dull even a bit, probably bcz i am using RELAY's for my headlight.Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post
I have console & tail light on LED, Brake Light is bulb which i never used while testing@Shreeni - Continue testing for a week with the setup and let us know. In my case console and brake lights are LEDs - maybe that helped.
Just a confusing update
Real time testing
When Headlight is ON and Rectifier is OFF - Horn sounds OK
When Headlight is ON and Rectifier is ON - Horn sounds sluggish
But sometimes when Headlight is ON and Rectifier is ON - Horn sounds normal like when Headlight is OFF
Now what is the funda behind the Horn working fine sometimes??
Somehow i have a doubt that my ROOT's are consuming more power.
Thinking to put Stock horn and try.Leave a comment:
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voltage regulator is used for magneto in all bikes which has a battery charging coil and a loading generator coil, voltage regulator has a voltage divider to detect a voltage proportional to a terminal voltage of battery, second it has a voltage divider to detect a voltage proportional to output voltage of the loading generator coil; and third a controlled rectifier to short circuit the battery charging generator coil and adapted to be conductive when either of the voltages detected by the first and second voltage dividers is greater than a predetermined value... the reason its giving you 42v is the regulator isnt functioning.. check n replace..Leave a comment:
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It means your headlight runs off AC as relays do not work with AC. You may also hear the relay "chattering" if you run it off AC. So, you are getting 42V AC at the headlight. I have no idea what is happening!Originally posted by rahuldevnath View Post
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The digital instrumention on UG3 runs off DC. Tell me one thing for testing, even i put a full bridge rectifier without a capacitor on a 12V relay, at the headlight points, the relay does'nt work until i put a cap, plus i get around 40 to 42V at full rev!@Rahul - Maybe UG3 has a inbuilt capacitor somewhere in the bike - digital instruments need clean power supply. At least Apache 160 RTR FI has a capacitor to aid in starting the bike with a dead battery. Cap supports the FI.Leave a comment:
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Well guys here is how it works in my case. Headlight ON, brake light ON, horn ON - no problem at all. And it is a dual horn set up. It works like in case of cars - no flickering at all. Higher revs lead to a very slight increase of brightness just like cars.
@Shreeni - Continue testing for a week with the setup and let us know. In my case console and brake lights are LEDs - maybe that helped.
@Rahul - Maybe UG3 has a inbuilt capacitor somewhere in the bike - digital instruments need clean power supply. At least Apache 160 RTR FI has a capacitor to aid in starting the bike with a dead battery. Cap supports the FI.Leave a comment:
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I can try if any of my frens are ready to gimme rectifier for testingOriginally posted by rahuldevnath View Post
Headlights wont go down at any stage.. Only Horn criesI meant, even when you sound horn there's no problem? with the headlight as well as the horn?
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Hmm... so you plan to get all the current to ZMA's rectifier? Well, I hope it work's.When AC headlights are disconnected that current is saved which inturn the 3 phase rectifier can boost the current to battery too. Whereas Unicorn has 1 phase rr unit
I meant, even when you sound horn there's no problem? with the headlight as well as the horn?My headlight has no flickering. Its as good as when we connect it to carLeave a comment:
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When AC headlights are disconnected that current is saved which inturn the 3 phase rectifier can boost the current to battery too. Whereas Unicorn has 1 phase rr unitOriginally posted by rahuldevnath View Post
My headlight has no flickering. Its as good as when we connect it to car
Just thinking Over, I remember when I had initially installed 55W bulb on DC, it was weaker then actually it was on AC with high revs. The culprit was wiring. Try putting that 55W bulb, with good guage wire directly at battery, and see if there's a fluctuation of light in this case.
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You mean 55W alone for the headlight?i think there is 55w coil current which is not being used which is sufficient to charge battery
Just thinking Over, I remember when I had initially installed 55W bulb on DC, it was weaker then actually it was on AC with high revs. The culprit was wiring. Try putting that 55W bulb, with good guage wire directly at battery, and see if there's a fluctuation of light in this case.Yes something is wrong but what
But rectifier charges the battery when i take off the battery from bike circuitry and keep it aside.Leave a comment:
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i think there is 55w coil current which is not being used which is sufficient to charge batteryOriginally posted by rahuldevnath View Post
Yes something is wrong but what
Hm.. I have the same battery. But I'm consuming 35W HID. Where as you are consuming 55W? But even then it both horn and light should work simultaneosuly. Especially if your custom rectifier is charging the battery now. Something is wrong here..
But rectifier charges the battery when i take off the battery from bike circuitry and keep it aside.
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Won't work, you will need to change the coil as well!I am thinking to replace the stock rectifier to that on ZMA which by default is built to run the bike on DC without any discharging issue.
So that means the voltage in UG3 variants only is not regulated? Because for sure, the voltage never hover around even 25 Volts, in my bike!As i ve tested in couple of Unicorn, in stock conditions the output is around 13-14volts only.
I got the reading of 42v when the i was checking the output of rectifier made by me. I replaced the capacitor of same 25v & 4700uf and then the voltage dropped to 25v by which i concluded the earlier capacitor was defective or over charging. I don't know ur terms
Hm.. I have the same battery. But I'm consuming 35W HID. Where as you are consuming 55W? But even then it both horn and light should work simultaneosuly. Especially if your custom rectifier is charging the battery now. Something is wrong here..My battery is new Amaron 9aH (7aH stock) so it isn't really easy to drain it very soon even with stock conditions. I will have to ride atleast 3hours at less than 4rpm to decide.
But i could feel 1 thing, in stock 1 could manage to honk the horn with headlight ON but now horn struggles By this i can say its working as discharger than a charger.
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Oops looks like i missed out couple of discussions
I am thinking to replace the stock rectifier to that on ZMA which by default is built to run the bike on DC without any discharging issue.Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View PostWhat are you up to?
As i ve tested in couple of Unicorn, in stock conditions the output is around 13-14volts only.Originally posted by rahuldevnath View Post
I got the reading of 42v when the i was checking the output of rectifier made by me. I replaced the capacitor of same 25v & 4700uf and then the voltage dropped to 25v by which i concluded the earlier capacitor was defective or over charging. I don't know ur terms
My battery is new Amaron 9aH (7aH stock) so it isn't really easy to drain it very soon even with stock conditions. I will have to ride atleast 3hours at less than 4rpm to decide.Shree, do dome real world testing, see if your battery is discharging.
But i could feel 1 thing, in stock 1 could manage to honk the horn with headlight ON but now horn struggles
By this i can say its working as discharger than a charger.
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