Since '02 xBhp is different things to different people. From a close knit national community of bikers to India's only motorcycling lifestyle magazine and a place to make like-minded biker friends. Join us

Castrol Power 1

The slower the vehicle, the quicker it can turn.

Our Partner

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Converted my Pulsar 150 Classic to ALL DC

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Puneet1
    replied
    abhijeet the new rtr 180 abs has full dc electricals with 3 phase coil . to convert the present non dc rtr to full dc its just a coil and rr swap job right ?

    Leave a comment:


  • Ramborider
    replied
    ok will chek current at 2k rpm with 100w load...winding is varnished so waited for dried out

    Leave a comment:


  • abhijeet080808
    replied
    In that case, with 100W load, if current comes to +ve XX Amp at around 2k rpm, you are good to use the 100W bulb w/o any problem.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ramborider
    replied
    siping 100watt from 9ampbattry is that ok if running at continuously more than 300-400km long ride??

    Leave a comment:


  • Ramborider
    replied
    Yes i have cheked that as you told...amp meter in between yellow rr and + battry.
    ok i will switch to cut out and will measure current at 1k,2k,4k,6k rpm

    Leave a comment:


  • abhijeet080808
    replied
    Originally posted by Ramborider View Post
    Cheked that current while 100w bulb on !!!its giving around 7.6amp of current at 6000 rpm and voltage was around 14.6v at 5-6rpm range??so 100watt bulb can i fit or 60watt???
    is that using 100watt bulb will reduce that bvattry life???actuly after seen effect of 100watt at morning its like
    im have not switched to relay so how much time it can be use without relay???
    Ok, do onething - Measure the current by putting the multimeter between the Yellow RR Unit Wire and battery +ve. Now let me know the current at 1000 rpm gaps from 2k to 6k rpm with 100W load.

    No, do not put 100W bulb w/o relay.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ramborider
    replied
    Cheked that current while 100w bulb on !!!its giving around 7.6amp of current at 6000 rpm and voltage was around 14.6v at 5-6rpm range??so 100watt bulb can i fit or 60watt???
    is that using 100watt bulb will reduce that bvattry life???actuly after seen effect of 100watt at morning its like
    im have not switched to relay so how much time it can be use without relay???

    Leave a comment:


  • abhijeet080808
    replied
    Originally posted by Ramborider View Post
    Yes fevitite is epoxy based.
    yes i got it its that relay which use in 4wheelers costing around rs700!!another bomb on poket!!can we use swiitch used for Hazard lamp,in our bike minda company(pull,push type),its costing around rs35,so its easy to replace than whole switch and can go further for relay!
    I got mine for 350! Dont look for quality brand etc, since they will be made for 2 h/l = 200W and we will only use it for 100W which it will easily support. You will get it under 400!

    Leave a comment:


  • Ramborider
    replied
    Yes fevitite is epoxy based.
    yes i got it its that relay which use in 4wheelers costing around rs700!!another bomb on poket!!can we use swiitch used for Hazard lamp,in our bike minda company(pull,push type),its costing around rs35,so its easy to replace than whole switch and can go further for relay!

    Leave a comment:


  • abhijeet080808
    replied
    Originally posted by Ramborider View Post
    yes,im reading treads most of times, i had cheked buy using test lamp!! coil end and coilplate(ground are shorted)
    actuly araldite are very time consuming!!takes 4Hours,we can use fevitite EXP, which dried instantly.
    yes tomorrow will going to switch to amby sealed beam unit,and which type of cut out requred??and costing of that cut out?is that much needed?
    where to source 60w H4 helogen?on 4wheelers spare parts or 2wheeler?
    horn relay can work on that?
    Hmm... use anything as long it remains a bit soft and malleable. Is Fevitite EXP epoxy based?

    Yes cut out is very much needed else you will blow your switch! Use it. Ask at car accessories shop. They will have it for 2 bulb holders. Use one and cut the other.

    If you know how to, you can fabricate your own relay + wiring.

    For halo, go to car shops.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ramborider
    replied
    yes,im reading treads most of times, i had cheked buy using test lamp!! coil end and coilplate(ground are shorted)
    actuly araldite are very time consuming!!takes 4Hours,we can use fevitite EXP, which dried instantly.
    yes tomorrow will going to switch to amby sealed beam unit,and which type of cut out requred??and costing of that cut out?is that much needed?
    where to source 60w H4 helogen?on 4wheelers spare parts or 2wheeler?
    horn relay can work on that?

    Leave a comment:


  • abhijeet080808
    replied
    Originally posted by Ramborider View Post
    Im done it!! but doesnt make connection of headlight unit to battry,
    winding are shorted in between poles!!!! so i have to remove that all winding and done new winding and that time i merk on wire to eqal amount of winding to be done on poles and also applied araldite on pole whre metal is nakked!!
    i connect coil to RR unit and rr output too battry
    and get that reading-
    voltage at high rpm doesnt exid 14.7V
    but cuurent are so less only getting 4.15amp at max rpm!!
    is it bacause no light connection made??i only done on engine running condition no headlight nothing was on!!
    4.1amp *12.5volt=51Watt so is that means i cant connect 100w bulb in it??
    last time i done winding on same 197gram of 19G.
    but i observed that ampere reading reached at lazy 3000rpm and get steady!!
    Connect a 100W bulb temporarily to the batt. and then measure the voltage/current.

    Also, wirings are shorted? How did you detect this? Winding wire to GND/plate resistance is not infinite?

    Yes, use araldite/varnish. It seems you have read up most of this thread!

    Leave a comment:


  • Ramborider
    replied
    Im done it!! but doesnt make connection of headlight unit to battry,
    winding are shorted in between poles!!!! so i have to remove that all winding and done new winding and that time i merk on wire to eqal amount of winding to be done on poles and also applied araldite on pole whre metal is nakked!!
    i connect coil to RR unit and rr output too battry
    and get that reading-
    voltage at high rpm doesnt exid 14.7V
    but cuurent are so less only getting 4.15amp at max rpm!!
    is it bacause no light connection made??i only done on engine running condition no headlight nothing was on!!
    4.1amp *12.5volt=51Watt so is that means i cant connect 100w bulb in it??
    last time i done winding on same 197gram of 19G.
    but i observed that ampere reading reached at lazy 3000rpm and get steady!!

    Leave a comment:


  • abhijeet080808
    replied
    ^^ See you just do 2 things -

    1. Leave the igniton coil wirings alone.

    2. Take 2 wires from you own coil and fit to APE RR unit. Do not solder the wires to the stator plate GND anywhere. Those 2 wires should not touch GND anywhere.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ramborider
    replied
    I crosscheked the winding but im very confusing about that connection which i made! that black strip on coil plate which has two connection terminals,is that connection are shorted i mean in right connection and left are shorted??if yes then i have to remove that because i solder one end of winding to that soldering strip end and get out from that gap provided at near and other end of winding solder to second soldering point on that strip. so if that strip has short(both end are conected each other) then its wrong conection.do u have any pic of ur mod ?it will be vary helpful to me


    Leave a comment:

Working...
X