55W HID's are difficult to find, and no, they DO NOT provide any significant increase in light output. Best is to go for 35W, proven, easily available and easy on bikes as well.

100W, would definitely crack the Hi Beam! But anyways when you have a 220, why do you want a 100W, when 2 HID's can provide best illumination?
And I think both the beam together are the best, better than single 100W.

Dude in 4K you can get 2 beams. Though of Chinese brand, but with Warranty. I would suggest you go for that, from my experience Chinese works perfectly.



The shifting is almost instantaneous, about few milli seconds. And you won't see any dimming or flickering while going to dual mode and vice versa.

It won't damage the HID as such, if 100Ws of extra load doesn't over stress the electrical.

I have HIDs for sale but they are all 4300k have all holder types.PM for more details.

Switching from high to low beam wont damage the ballast. the ballasts is made for taking the maximum beating . If the voltage is low the ballast will automatically shut down. and if the voltage is too high it has a cut out. The ballasts are hardcore man dont worry about it . I would just worry about your wires . Make sure they have a fire proof sleeve

I am running 2 HIDs on my R15 now from a few weeks. Earlier i just had one HID. And if a R15s punny battery can take the 2 hids and the electrical am sure the p220s battery should work well .

If im not wrong , its a 232 watt 3 phase stator coil .

Santa

Did the test. Looks like battery is the culprit. As i said before the low battery indication goes when revved till as low as 2k rpm.
I plan to increase my idling to about 1.8k rpm.

PS- Iam getting inclined towards HID's now. Just a thought, is a 55W HID available? I cant afford HID's for both beams anytime soon. 1 Beam for about 4k, yeah i can find ways for the money. So thinking of 55W HID (if available) in low beam and 100W best quality halogen bulb in high beam. I know that high beam reflector is at risk. But i will use high beam only for flashing purposes. I plan to make it also a dual beam setup but wont use it except for flashing.
Comments Please.

A doubt. U use 2 HID's. Whenever u shift from single beam to dual beam and vice versa there will be some delay for the power source to change. Doest that shifting delay damage the ballast? During that interval doesnt the low beam get marginally dim?
In my hypothetical case (55W HID + 100W Halogen), what if i keep on flashing continuously when low beam (HID) is on? Will the HID get damaged? Iam not worried about battery for time being.

Thanks for the sweet words doc.
All credit goes to Rahul Devnath and Abhijeet. Mine is his Pirated Copyrighted work.
The P220 coil can provide lots of power. My battery is the culprit. Once i get a new one i can get even better results and will know the true potential of the coil.

Is Raptor a reputed brand? What about warranty?

At about 6K, it's an overkill. Even at 4K, it would better to buy branded kits with warranty. Chinese ones comes as low as 4K with warranty!

There are many shops in JC Road, stocking HID Kits. It's a car HID kit, so no problem in finding them. I bought mine from CarNStyle.

Thanks for your appreciation.
It seems 220 can provide more than 150Watts!!

Yes there will be charges of 30$ for International shipping.

Please see this link Shipping information

As sajanjosepht said.. Still this is a good deal

If the shipping co can handle the customs clearence, its a good offer, else its going to be a painful affair.Quoted is excluding the shipping chargs, add another 30 for Intl shipping, so its costing around 86.25+30=$116.25 ie; 5800. Not bad at all, as the local shops r charging the same from 8K onwards for a std ballast kit, whereas this one is a slim ballast.

Normal overseas purchase shipping charges doesnt include the clearence issues, those who made any purchases from Ebay.com might be knowing this.

Hey this is great offer! Anyone from Mumbai/Pune for sharing the ballast? Thanks for the headsup bharathkkr!

Rahul, Superb job on Twin Beam HID..

Just loved reading this thread.. Now I am planning to put by Noob brain to work on my P220 ...

Was going thru the links posted in the thread..

I thought this is good offer.. What do u say?

Raptor Hid kits

Raptor Brand 35W HID Kit - for just 4000 Rps (free shipping) (offer lasts for a week)

Available Options:
Wattage: 35W
Colour: 6000k
Bulb Type: H7

I Hope this is straight fit for P220 dtsi?

Should I go for this?

If not please let me know the shop address in bangalore?

holy god!!!what u guys started doing man?KUDOS TO YOU.
first a twin beam hid then a twin beam halo mod!!OH MY GOD!
really ,how much wattage is there in stock pulsy 220 dtsi?i am just curious!
currently own a sweet ug 2 180 and runnin avy coil and phillips xtream power bulb55/60 and soon will upgrade to 220 dtsi only for the LIGHT reason,yes tats enough for me.again KUDOS to u guys!!!!!

To check whether it's a battery problem or RR Unit, simply start the bike, let it run on idle, switch on the light (one beam), wait till Low Batt starts flashing. Now Rev your bike to about 4K RPM. See if it warning stays or not. Also switch off and then back on the light, while revving and check if you get low bat warning or not.

If it's goes after revving that means battery is gone, else the RR Unit.

For wiring you can buy single, thicker gauge wiring used for house wiring, not very thick though.

BTW you are using 2X55 Watts! Just be thankful even if you can see a glimpse of two beams!!

But surely it will affect even a new battery, because charge cycle will too heavy!

@ Rahul
Good that ur Bike is not giving any problems for now.
Just be careful about the battery going dead.
We'll do it on my bike also soon.

Checked in after a long time.
I came to know about a shop which sells such Blue colored LED's. It costs some 100rs per pair. Or i would take really good LED's from electronics and make the circuit. Will take them soon.
Coming to my bike. There is some serious problem with the battery or RR, Yesterday got it checked at an Exide showroom. The damn battery gave 0 Volts as the reading. Tried from changing the multimeter to shaking the battery really violently and what not. Still 0 Volts. But self-start is working somehow. Also the lights and horn work when the ignition is on and bike is off. But when lights (parking) are on, the display shows low battery indication and the lights (parking & low beam) go off in as low as 4 seconds when switched on. With the engine on at idling still the display shows low battery when even the low beam is on. Forget dual beam. . If the dual beam is switched on at idling even the fuel pump sound changes and becomes weak. Looks like i need to get this sorted or may land up in trouble soon.
Also i noticed that there is a drop in the intensity of low beam when dual beam is switched on. Perhaps even the high beam's intensity maybe low. Its been a long time since i saw the single high beam. Also upon revving the intensity increases marginally.
This time i will solder better wires to the relay and put a switch. Can u guide to which wire may fit my requirement?
Somehow not able to take the pics. Will upload them for sure. But its really good if driving at high rpms. Will upgrade to Night Breakers soon. Next year HID's.

That would be an too optimistic statement to say!


You genreally find these LED at Automotive shops only. They have resistors to allow them to run on 12V but come in the socket configuration and are plug and play at Pilot Lamp and Number Plate sockets.

Try to find bright good quality ones, as most of them don't last long. Try finding the ones which cost about 140 a pair. You also get 35,70 buck a pair, avoid them. If nothing else works, you can buy Ultra Bright LED from electronic shops and put a resistor to make them work on 12V.

It an assumption but, it happens that the BCU senses the 35W to be lesser load and hence tries to changeover to other beam, as it happens in my case. But your problem could be because of an undercharged battery.

Your charging is surely not happening, most probably the RR unit is culprit, or it could be battery after all. Even a 1 hour ride above 3K RPM is enough to charge the battery.