Price starts from $15 on ebay but quality no idea, all from Chinese brands, tryout some reputed sites like listed under after ebay. Go for slim ballasts as its the advanced tech.


Try this:

hid conversion kit, buy and sell Motorcycle Parts on eBay Motors

The Retrofit Source (U.S.) - HID Projector Retrofit Kits, Retrofit and HID Componenents, Projectors Lens, Wiring Harnesses, Shrouds and more!

Hid Kits | Your Xenon Hid Conversion Kit Source

Answers in bold.

@darkknight - I have never brought anything online, so no idea there! BTW, why import it when HIDs are available easily in our country? Nowadays, even manufactured right here and thus have warranty too.

abhijit ,u seem to be the resident expert here.can u pls. help with the following:

can anyone please list some websites in US ,where one can source 35W bixenon 6000k HID kit.
also what would be the approx. cost in USD.
i tried google but there was a lot of mis information as well as price difference across various websites
one website says $144
http://www.xenonhid.org/motorcycle-bixenon-hid-kits-p-38.html

with 1 HID bulb & 1 ballast

wheras the 2nd says $60 only

http://www.housinghouse.com/goods-521.html

with 2 xenon bulbs & 2 ballast

now I am totally confused as what to do.

@ abhijeet080808 & rahuldevnath

Iam confused with the terminals now. Which is correct?
Anyhow iam again going to hunt Hyd for the relay that is used on PCB's. Is there any current limitation for it? Looking at the pic i dont understand what its current limit is. 7A or 10A?
The relay which i took is of 15A. I guess its too much and will not justify the job of protecting my BCU. So which one shall i go for? I would be running 2 55W halogens. It would be drawing 9.2A from my poor battery. I think i need to take a relay of 10A. Now iam thinking of why taking so much risks.
The thing is iam a student and if i ask my parents for money for HID's they for sure will start to shout at me. They wouldnt understand the need to spend around 7k just for the bike's lights.

@ Shreeni0403 & abhijeet080808

Here is my version of why high beam and low beam cant be shorted. If they are shorted they both would run simultaneously no matter if the high beam or low beam is on. I maybe wrong also.
I think using a diode is simpler and easier. Give the +ve of diode to high beam +ve and -ve of diode to low beam +ve and another diode in similar fashion for connecting -ve terminals aswell. When the low beam is on the diode would be reverse biased and wouldnt conduct. Hence only low beam. When high beam is on the diode would be forward biased and it would conduct and hence both the beams would be on. But i think the current flowing through the diode would be too much and the diodes would blow. We can use a resistor in parallel for limiting the current through the diode. But i dont know how to calculate the value of the resistor. If iam not wrong its resistance should be lesser than the forward resistance of the diode to allow more current to flow through it.
Please shed some light on this setup. Its easier than using a relay.

The relay is there just to protect the BCU!

Also the wires may be overloaded without relay. I mean same wire which carries 35W now has to carry 35+35W load!

Rahul, sorry u might ve written earlier as well but can't dig into again

What if we short the low beam and hi beam wires with an extra wire connected by a switch. When we turn on that switch both Lo and HI will power up.

I know Pulsar has lot of gizmo's . The one which I told isn't it feasible for normal bikes without any gizmo's (BCU etc)

He He...

Ok that's an SPDT Relay, but is prone to moisture and dust.
I guess the Terminals would be
(1) Extreme right 2 parallel ones are the closed and open points, and in than the right most one has to be (NC) Normally Closed and the left one is Normally open.

(2) The Middle row, where there's a single terminal, is the Common

(3) Extreme Left, in Tandem configurations are the Coil's terminals!

BTW, if possible look out for Miniature Relay used directly on PCBs, almost all the relays will at least be SPDT, nothing less, and look out in Electronic shops only.

Something like this?

I think this is a SPDT relay! And it is the same with shopkeepers everywhere! Now, find out the terminals! The rightmost 2 wires are for the relay coil, the leftmost 3 are the relay contacts - the bottom one is the single pole (SP) part, the top 2 are the double throw (DT) part. Atleast I guess so!

Went searching for relay all over Hyderabad. It seems like people of Hyd seriously lack technical knowledge. When asked for a relay at any automobile shop, they ask for which bike. When i said its for a headlight mod and give me a relay which has 5 terminals they started showing me CDI's and RR's . Is there any layman term for a SPDT Relay so that i can get it easily? In car accessory shops they have relays with 6 terminals. They themselves dont know which type of relay is that. All they say is its a cutout relay for the headlight.
PS- A few guys showed me some relay. It is used in P150 and P180's itseems. It had 5 terminals but nothing was written on it except for the manufacturer name. It was quite small in size and did not have any labelling for the terminals.
I was advised to go to electronic shops by some shopkeeper. To my surprise even the guys at electronic shops dont know a bit about the specifications of the things which they are selling. I took a diode and wanted to know its breakdown voltage. That guy from a pretty big and famous electronic shop put a blank face and said we dont know all this. Tell me diode number and i will give it to u. After some searching i found a relay for 50rs. Iam attaching the pics. The Relay type is MCC-1. Contact is 15A/250V. Coil is 12V DC/150 ohms. This is what is written on it. Dont know if its the correct one or not.

That Greyish Kinda this is the "Socket" or Call it Holder if you like it. So in that grey thing instead of the Bulb's pin you poke extra wires.

The thing is i dont understand what the socket is here. I was able to pluck that greyish kinda thing. After that i saw bulbs terminals pointing outside.
Soon i will get the relay and solder 5 different color wires of 10 cm each to it.
I will make sure to get 1P2T relay. I understand why this is required. After that u can guide me further.

Yes, generally crossing over is denoted by "U", but didn't do it out of laziness!

If BCU goes Kaput, then it goes Kaput, and God know what else will go Kaput with it!

1. No they aren't. When I talk about +ve HID/Halogen is the wire going to towards the HID's +ve, in case of Halogen it's the Bulbs pins.. hope you get it, and +ve of socket is from the bulb socket. In HID there would be separate +ve and -Ve pins, unlike where the pins are on the bulb itself. So, in case you have to attach extra wire to the bulb and socket. So a wire from the bulb will got to socket and the other wire will go to relay.

The modification in the pic, will not work. The relay has been put so that there's no reverse current to the socket of low beam.

2. Do'nt worry, the best thing would be to get the relay. And the relay has to be Single Pole Double Throw, see the picture and description on first post. Now, mark the Relay point as shown here, and solder wires to it, and then I can take it from there.

Even i thought the same. But in my electronics crossing wires are shown with a inverted U or a hump kind of symbol. Although the . is used where wires are joined.

Having the switch sounds sensible to me. I would use the switch and stick it to the relay or headlight unit.

But what if the BCU goes kaput all of a sudden?

This one is quite complicated.
Aren't the low beam +ve of HID (halogen in my case) and low beam socket of the bulb same?
1. Lets consider they are same. Now if i take a wire from relay point A to low beam bulb +ve and poke there & i take another wire from relay point B and again poke it to the same low beam bulb +ve will the circuit remain same as shown in the daiagram? If we do like this the circuit will change. I am attaching a modified pic which i think will be the case then. Sorry i maybe wrong. Please correct me if iam wrong. Iam also attaching a pic of the bulb sockets.
2. If they are not same. Maybe i dint understand anything afterall.

(1) Make use of extra wire. From relay point A, take to the low beam's +ve, of HID, and from pint B of the Relay take to the low beam socket of the bulb, and poke it, don't cut an join!

(2) Yes, you can put the wires together, they are common, and +ve is going over the -ve, not joining it, only where you find ".", means the wires is joined.

(3) A Toggele switch is not must be highly recommended. The switch can be, wrapped in insulation tape, and tucked near below the fairing where's it's not visible. Consider this, you are on the highway, and you cannot use both the beams and need to use the high beam alone, you can at least revert back to single beam.

Don't worry about the battery. The BCU senses the threshold of Amperage of battery, and thus switches off the bulbs so as to save battery power. In rare case the BCU itself could be at fault. Understand that' the battery is not actually discharge enough to switch off the bulb.

Thanks. Will do it soon (in a day or two ) and post the results.
I again have a doubt .
1. U said simply poke the wires. But when u take Low Beams +ve, there is relay's A & B in between. So shall i use an extra wire? Put the original wire to the relay B (NC) and a new wire from A to bulb (or socket or whatever) ?
2. If u have a look at high beams, there are two wires which go the relay's C (NO) & E (via a toggle switch). Can i put these two wires directly at the sockets or bulbs (High Beam +ve in this case) ? Also after connecting these wires are the +ve & -ve shorted or the wires to the relay are crossing the -ve terminal wire?
3. A toggle switch is not a must right? It is only to go back to the stock setup if desired? I dont like any extra fitments like switches .

Coming to battery. The lights dont go off when the bike is switched on. They get off when bike is off and lights are turned on. But the problem is they are switching off soon (hardly 3 seconds). Previously they used to last over 7 seconds. They brighten up marginally when revved over 2.5k rpm. I think it should be a battery problem as i constantly run for long distances on high rpms (8k+) without lights and still the battery is not getting charged. The dealer said it should be a problem with battery's gravity . What i dont understand is why isnt the battery getting totally discharged.