lets not go to 100w halogens..
this thread is mainly meant for HID's

the single pole RX 100's coil MAY NOT support a hid on dc.
(however trying it will clear all the doubts)
while the 3 pole stator of RD might support if winded properly..

the battery doesn't need complete amps to get charged,
a 2.5 amps battery generally requires 1 amp to get charged.
a 5 amp battery might require 2
my 9 amp battery requires 4 amps, it doesn't even take more even if you provide.

imagine this, if we have a 24Amp car battery on our bike, it can easily light up 6-8 hid's without any issues, but the stator would not REPLENISH will the lost current as it cannot.
hence when the battery will discharge, it will shut down the bulbs and 2 days of riding is needed to recharge it back, so will you guys stay with headlamp OFF for 2 days ?

similarly, a 9 amp battery is good to support 2 hid's (personal experience) and our stator can provide it that extra current so that it never ever gets completely discharged.

let me give you a charging detail with APE RR

when all the electricals are OFF and battery is completely DISCHARGED..
the rr gives max current of 3.98 amps to the battery

when all the electricals are OFF and battery is completely CHARGED..
the rr gives max current of 0.89 amps to the battery

when headlight (1 hid) is on
the rr gives 6 amps to the battery
3 amps for replenishing the discharge of hid and 3 more for charging..

when headlight (2 hid) is on
the rr gives 11 amps to the battery
8 amps totally to replenish the lost amount of current from a 9 amp battery + 3 amps MORE TO CHARGE THE BATTERY.

so the thing is, that a 9 amp battery charges in 3-4 amps of current itself, no matter how much you rewind, ape rr in this way doesn't OVERCHARGE the battery.

a DEAD 9 amp battery requires 15 minutes to get completely charged, if we provide a 4 amp current constantly,

PS:- all this is my own readings and they are 100% correct.

Wow wow, how did I missed this thread? Lots of good posts to be referred...

Good job guys

Nano, seems to be u r on full throttle

Good to see u here Abhi once again after a break Stuck with the work load?

I think there are few more to come on this other than me like Doc and Shree. Aagee, I think u can get a good helping hand from Doc once he's settled with the shifting process to Chennai.

Firstly, Hella Micro De is just an Fog/Aux lamp projector not a proper driving module. And its not designed for HID but being its quality and the size it creates less glares compared to other lights like the stock headlamps for Halogens. If you take a wall projection, you will get an idea about what am referring to.

No HID can ensure zero/partial glares unless its fitted to a HID ready headlamp. If someone claims that its nothing more than a myth. I accept that the quality of the HID tube plays a major role in glares plus the glare shield is the only limiting factor in case of almost all chinese versions as they are produced in bulk and comes with a cheap price. Take the pricing of Hella/Osram HID kits are priced at higher range and no body has any doubt the pricing is very aggressive, but at the same time there's question on the quality aspects too. But there too they advise to use a proper HID desgined headlamps for the kit.

We had enough discussions on this topic few months back and I've quoted with enough examples. Have a look at this.



I know the reason behind this justification but still, we should not hide the facts at least in these forums. P.



IIRC, u asked for a Activa HID installation right? I think its possible without much changes if u drive on highways mostly not less than 50Kph, but on city drives it can dump u without lights. But still there's hope if u can upgrade ur battery to 9AH, then u'll get more backup for city drive and all I could say its not a full solution unless u change the RR as the b2b traffic can make the things worse with low charging rates.

Abhi is right in terms of tapping power from 100W light coil, it can be done once you post some macro shots of the windings. U can make use of that coil after de grounding one of the coils and re route it thru APE RR for DC Conversion.

+1 Nano, if the charging rates are healthy, u can even start the HID with a flat battery. I've given my testimony earlier also. Been with a flat battery for 3 days with HID without any issues except on idle it teds to flicker and will mange it by just increasing the throttle a bit more. If u r ready to crank the engine by kick starting u can carry on this as much as possible, even the stock single horn will beep to a satisfactory level.


@Nano, in an AC+DC coil, where the lighting is AC the no of light coils will be more than the batt as the usage of battery is limited and it can be topped up while running but the light power has to be more than the batt coils to support at least a 35W+5W+10W tail= 50-60W AC power where the batt requires only 1-2A consistently at stock condition. Hope u got it.

One more, is it correct that an HID will take only 5A at startup and then stabilize to 2.9A? No, most of the manufacturers are giving the details as on cold start it will take a whopping 8-9A and once its stabilized to full brightness it will settle with a 3.2-3.5A AFAIK. Whats the readings with your kit?

Hey, RX riders are the first ones AFAIK who proved with a 90/100W with Amby Hls.

1. Where can I BUY the Hella Micro DE. I need a pair since I have HIDs installed on my R15, but need projectors for even light distribution.

2. Can the clamps provided by the kit be used for instakkation inside the headlamp assembly of the R15?

3. Any other projector options? If yes, where can I buy them + price

Thank you in advance

1. contact navnish for the hella Micro DE
2. no the clamps cannot be used inside the dome although you can fix the hella using m seal.
3. normal projector headlamps can be used. the range varies from 2k to 10k per piece.... as per buying you can buy them in the 2 wheeler spare part market near minerva theatre mumbai central..

This is again getting back to square one!!! Now I read the required battery to be 9 Amps & 4 Amps to be the output from generator - If I've understood the posts of Nano & Sajjt. Am I right or wrong?

This is putting me back to the hopeless pit. @Sajjt - I always had Rx in mind, but used Activa because it has a 5A battery & my Rx used to run in its battery for quite sometime. So if there was anything coinciding with 5A battery & HID, I was trying to sync up on those lines.

@Nano - I've got the principle of this charging. If I understood you right, are you saying a fully charged 4A battery is sufficient to light up the HID, but, it is the generator's output that should quickly keep charging the battery. Correct me if I'm wrong here.

And again, I was under the impression that HID's are of 35W isn't it? Is it only the Amps that differ between HID & ordinary Halogen? So what's the Amps of the ordinary Halogen?

Now, here're some close-ups on the coil plates. Let me know, if a further close-up is required on any of the parts.

yes dude..
my hid requires 4 amps when i switch it ON.
and it goes down to 2.9 amps when stabilized...
if i use both of them and switch them ON together, it requires 8.2 amps and after both of them are stabilized, the current goes down to 6.1 amps..
tried and tested.

one more thing i wanted to ask you, my hid when reaches the stabilized stage, it flickers a bit with red tinge for a second, and then i can see the brightest ever hid as long as its ON.
is it okay??
happens to both the HID's..

High beam takes more time to get stabilized, maybe because the bulb is comparatively newer, and its pulling 8 amps totally..
it takes 10 secs more for high beam to get stabilized.

see if you use ape rr, it will provide MAX 4 amps to the dead battery..
if your headlamp is on, it will provide 7 amps to the dead battery and so on...
if you get this, you are right !!!

Exactly...

halo takes slightly lesser amps 2.5 amps are enough to light up a 35w halo to full intensity..
when i was using a 55w halo, it required 4 amps..


one more thing..
see whenever we switch on our headlight, even the console and tail light turns on, so the current is using all these together..

@ sajit..
dude, i got these readlings after changing 9 console bulbs to led's..
each bulb required 2w previously.
on stock 4 of them are on with headlight, 3 of speedo + tacko + Fuel guage, and 1 green bulb of power or economy (in TVS bikes)

so after changing them i saved a bit, maybe that's why my readings are low...

Thanks Need to get myself a pair.

You mean the auto APE or something else?

Again going back, if 55w halo required 4 amps, what about 100w halo? may be 6A? But from my understanding, even that is insufficient because the load current that is required is 8A. So once it is switched ON, the battery needs to be charged further for which a 4A output from the generator is required EXCLUSIVELY for the battery apart from tail lamps etc. So even in that case a 5A battery like Activa's is insufficient.

Do I hold good here on my understanding?

Yes, you're right.

How do you guys even measure it? Using Multimeter? Pls let me know. Tks.

@Nano - Thanks for your continued education on this. Appreciate it.

a 100w bulb would require 8 amps to glow in full intensity on DC, with relays..
relays are must to light up such a bulb..
yes we calculate with a multimeter...
i meant Piaggio's Ape 3 Wheeler's RR unit.
lets make things simple..
forget 100w bulbs, go for HID..
single Hid will need a 5 amp battery
dual Hid will require 9 amp battery..

That makes things a lot X 10^ (infinite) times clear!!!

To summarize for a SINGLE HID setup
Generator output - 3 Amps for HID only & the rest SHOULD be directed to battery for charging
Load or initial current for HID - 4 Amps
Battery capacity - 5 Amps
Output from RR Unit - 4 Amps?
Consumption of HID - 3 Amps

Now, what is this term? You mean wiring to HID?

I use a Hunk i rewinded the coil and i used the APE rr.The readings where showing a constant 12.1 volts when connected to battery.somelater later my fuse blew out.what is the problem?
Now im running on stock regulator.The output from the regulator to the headlight was zero so i guess coil is rewinded correctly.am i right?

dude, your generator will be directly connected to the battery only,
your headlight will be connected to that battery later.
thus it makes it DC.
a 5 amp battery would do fine.
when your hid will be on, your load will be -4 amps.
as you revv, your 5 amp battery will get 7 amps of current..
4 amps to make the load 0 (which is -4 now) and 3 amps to charge the 5 amp battery..
got it?

i am pretty much sure that your coil is okay..
as the headlamp on stock rr is glowing almost 0.
but i am also sure that the floating ground is not done, hence all this problem.

de-solder the point where the copper wire which is newly winded is soldered to the ground, post the readings after doing that, it should rise above to 14.5v pretty quickly..

i am pretty much sure that your coil is okay..
as the headlamp on stock rr is glowing almost 0.
but i am also sure that the floating ground is not done, hence all this problem.

de-solder the point where the copper wire which is newly winded is soldered to the ground, post the readings after doing that, it should rise above to 14.5v pretty quickly..[/QUOTE]

thanx nano.so i should desolder and just leave it?.

argee,if you are having problems with hid or charging system,i am ready to help,already in your city,loving every moment of it..........
realllly lookin foroward to meet your hyper baby rx..

de-solder the point at which the wire is attached to the ground..
in simpler terms, float the ground, but the wire should be connected to the ape rr..
in even simpler terms..
a wire should go in, get re winded to all the poles AND COME OUT DIRECTLY WITHOUT ANY OTHER CONTACT to go in the ape rr..
these 2 ends of the re-winded wire will be directly connected to ape rr's grey wires..


@ doc..

good to see you after such a long time..
how is your new setup going on?