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**RanjithMN** · 10-28-2010, 02:32 PM

Originally posted by kinshuk.arya View Post

not this nut as it will have the heat problem there is one more more on the upper side...

but i dont see any other nut

can you pls tell me where it is located in the foll. pic?
btw i rode quite a bit today without the HID and checked the ballast...not hot at all...so i dont think its taking the engines heat.

**kinshuk.arya** · 10-28-2010, 02:42 PM

Originally posted by RanjithMN View Post

but i dont see any other nut

can you pls tell me where it is located in the foll. pic?
btw i rode quite a bit today without the HID and checked the ballast...not hot at all...so i dont think its taking the engines heat.

yeah you got it right... i was confused by the first pic... the heat wont be a problem have been using a ballast in the same place from the past 3 months...

**sajjt** · 10-28-2010, 05:55 PM

Originally posted by NANOtechnology View Post

where do you want me to put m-seal ??

i didn't get it !!
do you want me to fill silicon get all the way till the brim ??

Once u've finished the levelling it can be filled up to the brim as u said. Its a very soft one at any point of time u can remove it very easily by using a paper knife.

**sajjt** · 10-28-2010, 05:56 PM

Originally posted by kauria View Post

Hi all,
I already inform you that I have converted my RTR to full DC using a 3phase RR unit and without coil rewinding. Some of you asked me for the result in different RPM range. Here is that details for your ready reference, sorry for late reply as I was checking the setup for last 100Kms, now everything fine, so I can put the result here.

Charger: P220 3phase RR.
Magneto: Stock, but negative un-grounded.
Battery: Amaron 9ah
Battery Voltage: 14.50 v

CHARGING AT DIFFERENT RPM WITHOUT HID

CHARGING AT DIFFERENT RPM WITH HID ON

Here are some pictures of my setup for your reference.

Good work mate, would appreciate if u could post the current readings too as its the controlling factor in DC conversion.

**kauria** · 10-28-2010, 06:27 PM

Sajjat thanks; I will sure try to post the amp readings. BTW, can you tell me that, sometimes my HID lights flicker, not very much, its like the bulb is tossing, I thought it was due to power source, but it flickers with or without engine start, and I double checked the bulb, its not tossing,

Somewhere I read it is due to bad ground. What say?

**lijok** · 10-28-2010, 08:06 PM

Originally posted by kauria View Post

Sajjat thanks; I will sure try to post the amp readings. BTW, can you tell me that, sometimes my HID lights flicker, not very much, its like the bulb is tossing, I thought it was due to power source, but it flickers with or without engine start, and I double checked the bulb, its not tossing,

Somewhere I read it is due to bad ground. What say?

did you check for any loose connections bro? Seems stupid, but that what happened to me yesterday after I disconnected the hid (to practise emergency switching to halo) and put it back. Problem was i could not test it after putting it back, and on my way back from office, it was flickering like hell...

BTW, I see you also have the hid with the glare cap, and its the one that moves in and out right? What I see with mine is that there is a lot of gap in the moving mechanism and it tends to move down, affecting the spread on high beam... u have any such issues?

**Rony** · 10-28-2010, 09:50 PM

Originally posted by Puneet1 View Post

If your bike has dc lighting then a Hid conversion is a easy job and no battery issues . go ahead whats your budget for hid ?

I am ready to spend up to 3k. So what all I need to do ?

**drvmtm** · 10-29-2010, 01:03 AM

Originally posted by lijok View Post

did you check for any loose connections bro? Seems stupid, but that what happened to me yesterday after I disconnected the hid (to practise emergency switching to halo) and put it back. Problem was i could not test it after putting it back, and on my way back from office, it was flickering like hell...

BTW, I see you also have the hid with the glare cap, and its the one that moves in and out right? What I see with mine is that there is a lot of gap in the moving mechanism and it tends to move down, affecting the spread on high beam... u have any such issues?

i also face the exact same problem.in low beam the bulb is stable but in high beam it worsons.the bulb vibrates like a jiggly teenager,it feels like the reflector is loose.
you are correct,the play is more.i will open it and see if some thing can be done to reduce the free play.
and oh ya,you are welcome.and just inform as u reach.

looking forward to it.

**lijok** · 10-29-2010, 01:28 AM

Originally posted by drvmtm View Post

i also face the exact same problem.in low beam the bulb is stable but in high beam it worsons.the bulb vibrates like a jiggly teenager,it feels like the reflector is loose.
you are correct,the play is more.i will open it and see if some thing can be done to reduce the free play.
and oh ya,you are welcome.and just inform as u reach.

looking forward to it.

ah so, am not alone... glad to hear that...
what I did as for the time being is, to put in a piece of aluminum foil between the space in which it moves.... though not sure if it can take the sustained heat of the HID...

And sorry to say, if the rain do not let up, I may postpone the ride...

**sajjt** · 10-29-2010, 12:50 PM

Originally posted by lijok View Post

did you check for any loose connections bro? Seems stupid, but that what happened to me yesterday after I disconnected the hid (to practise emergency switching to halo) and put it back. Problem was i could not test it after putting it back, and on my way back from office, it was flickering like hell...

BTW, I see you also have the hid with the glare cap, and its the one that moves in and out right? What I see with mine is that there is a lot of gap in the moving mechanism and it tends to move down, affecting the spread on high beam... u have any such issues?

Lijo, can u elaborate it bit more? I am

Is the glare shield loose?

In the glare shield there is a gap for high beam, normal low beam mode the glowing capsule will be covered by the shield and the light wont reach the bottom side of the reflector so no glares to the upper level. Once the solenoid pulls back the capsule to back wards the capsule will be positioned just above the gap in the shield and resulting high beam.

So if u close this gap the high beam will be suffered.

Or Am I got it wrong?

**kauria** · 10-29-2010, 01:33 PM

I think Lizok wants to mean the part of the bulb which moves when high beam is on, is kind of loose, it rattles when the bike in motion, and the light flickers.

But in my case it is not the same, its kind of internal, like the bulb glow, it reaches its full potential, and then starts flickering, not that off on kind, but the light up down is very slight, but no bulb movement. What could be the cause?

One more question.
I have an 8000k bulb and the supplied ballast, the light has a slight blue tint, now AFAIK the bulb is only responsible for the colour of light, ballast has no role in making colour. If that so, can I use a 6000k bulb in my setup, which is kind of pure white, without any blue tint.

Does my ballast support the same?

**sajjt** · 10-29-2010, 02:01 PM

Originally posted by kauria View Post

I think Lizok wants to mean the part of the bulb which moves when high beam is on, is kind of loose, it rattles when the bike in motion, and the light flickers.

But in my case it is not the same, its kind of internal, like the bulb glow, it reaches its full potential, and then starts flickering, not that off on kind, but the light up down is very slight, but no bulb movement. What could be the cause?

One more question.
I have an 8000k bulb and the supplied ballast, the light has a slight blue tint, now AFAIK the bulb is only responsible for the colour of light, ballast has no role in making colour. If that so, can I use a 6000k bulb in my setup, which is kind of pure white, without any blue tint.

Does my ballast support the same?

OH my bad, I've seen this before, its not flickering its just vibrating the capsule when the solenoid pulls it back. Its a quality parameter in telescopic H4 but unfortunately we cant make sure it unless and untill we fix it

. And no one is ready to replace the same too

.

Correct, bulb is responsible for the colour. U can use the ballast for the same rated bulb.

**lijok** · 10-29-2010, 07:48 PM

@Sajan - what kauria described is(was) my problem. I've done a tricky mod to eliminate it. Will test and then post if its advisable..

BTW, there is no gap as shown in the pic in my glare shield..... hmm... another mod needed... cool..

**princesirohi** · 10-30-2010, 04:04 PM

hey guys,

I have a problem, the relay (Hi/Low relay) used in my HID installation is failing repeatedly. can anybody suggest a robust relay. i use my flash button quite frequently.

**drvmtm** · 10-31-2010, 03:11 PM

Originally posted by kauria View Post

I think Lizok wants to mean the part of the bulb which moves when high beam is on, is kind of loose, it rattles when the bike in motion, and the light flickers.

But in my case it is not the same, its kind of internal, like the bulb glow, it reaches its full potential, and then starts flickering, not that off on kind, but the light up down is very slight, but no bulb movement. What could be the cause?

One more question.
I have an 8000k bulb and the supplied ballast, the light has a slight blue tint, now AFAIK the bulb is only responsible for the colour of light, ballast has no role in making colour. If that so, can I use a 6000k bulb in my setup, which is kind of pure white, without any blue tint.

Does my ballast support the same?

i say you get your hid kit changed under warranty.
yes you can use any bulb color,ballast is same.
also kaushik ,are you using pulsar 220 rr which is of 3 phase in two phase config from the coil of your rtr?
please elaborate the connection from coil to the rr.
also how much the rr costed?

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