@ Ranjith,

the red and black wires (red marked one) should connect to battery directly and another socket with red/white wire should connected to headlight socket(same socket connected with H4 bulb).

@Ranjith, those wires you marked definitely goes to the battery.. Now, what are those grey wires?
One more thing, your high/low is controlled by the 'thingy' in the projector, or do you have a bulb (HID filament) that moves (like mine) ?

Thank you guys..its all sorted out...i just have to connect some sockets to the lose ends and im all ready to go!
well except for one last doubt :P
FZ stock has a 3 pin socket...but my bi-xen setup has only 2...so how will be the high beam controlled?
haven't tested it yet so have no idea!


@lijo
the rest are for AE and a LED IN the projector
and yes the high beam is controlled by the "thingy"-solenoid




thanks a million guys!

First check for any other wiring harness came along with the kit, usually there will be one. If not pls post a pic or come over

Surely, u r the right person dear.

Oops, that was a wrong post, I didnt noticed ur attachment.

Hope u've sorted out the issues by now. Follow Nano's instructions and others are also on the right track.

OK. I am gettin some chinese brand for around 4k including bi-xenon projector, shroud, HID.
wat say ?
and projector fits in a h4 type headlamp and the bulb type it uses is H1 .

Now sajit, for these wat and al thigs i'll have to change ?
rewinding + DC --> will have to change bulb holder type right ?

So finally u changed ur mind to HID. No wonder u opted for it as its a addiction or an infatuation.

H1 halogens are easily available so that any time u can go back to Halogens if u like.

Most of the kits will be having a wiring harness so that the installation will be easy, check for that else u may need a SPST relay for driving the bulb.

Yes u need to rewind the coil with 19G wire in all 7 poles as a single coil, take out the both the ends outside and feed it to the APE RR. Remember ur stock coil is an AC+DC type and do not follow that, no groundings within the stator coil too. The coils should be isolated from body/gnd. Do not use the OE harness to connect the RR, instead take a spare wire with the equal guage of the APE RR input wire(gray) and connect it. U can bolt the RR to the same bolt where the OE RR was mounted but only one bolt and its enough to make it a good fixing. Feed the Yelllow wire from RR to the battery +ve and the black to the chassis by using the mounting bolt for the RR.

Next is wire routing, study the diagram and get back to us. Do not proceed with half understanding, it can smoke ur harness within secs.

This is what I've done.



This is for halogens, for u one SPST is enough as the high beam solenoid wont take much current. So avoid the high beam relay part and connect the high beam wire to the stock switch directly.

U have to cut a wire coming out of the OE RR out socket ie' yellow red stripped wire and feed the ign routed battery wire to that.



Cut the yellow red striped wire (Not the marked yellow wire) from the socket end and tap it to ign wire.

I've connected the brown wire at the relay. You can use the brown wire at any available point in the wiring. This brown wire is connected to the battery when the ignition is switched ON. now every thing will be on DC.



Pic courtsey: Abhijeet



Check the battery condition too, if its too old, change that also with a good MF one.

Thanks a ton for ur reply and help.
was also planning to get a new batt. Which brand shud i go for and wat r the specification i shud look while buying.

And regarding this DC conversion i guess i wont be able to do it by myself Will ask a pro mechanic and also will need nano's help (nano u listenig )

@ sajjt.

you are at your best sajan, helping others understand in a good way...
keep up the good work, and thank you for helping me too, its good to have you here.

@ veeral.

I've sent you a PM buddy, you can get it done yourself, i've mentioned all the details, in case any probs just give me a call, I've sent my number to you too.

Seriously man. hats off to sajan

Thanks alot mate. i really appreciate ur help .

Oops, didnt noticed both of ur locations Now u can do a better help desk rather than a tele con helping.

Veeral, its better to go as per Nano says, he's got enough hands on experience especially where it can go wrong or what should not be done or so.

Sure
Some silly Questions :P

Rewinding and DC are two different procedures, right ?
All RR unit and rectifier are used for DC purpose or rewinding ?
M planning to change battery. Wat specification i should look for ?
My HID is 35 watts FYI.

Pls help..................

I have attached the O/P of my Projector-HID.Can anyone tell me what type of a Bi-Xen this is?
G1 or Mini D2S/D4S i suppose?

I know the Quality of pics suck...sry...

1st and 3rd pic is of the LOW and the 2nd is of the HIGH beam

i didn't expect this question to be posted atleast..
should have searched in previous pages or my HID projector help thread, page no 34...

let me answer anyways..
your bike's stator produces current whenever the magnet around it rotates.

when you REVV, with the engine, even the magnet rotates, this helps in producing current.
however whatever current is produced by such method is AC current.

in our bikes the AC current produced by this method ranges from 48v to 100v AC..
this voltage can blast off all the electricals in the bike.

so there's a method to suppress this AC current.

an RR unit is a Rectifier/Regulator unit.
what it does is firstly makes sure that even if the bike produces 40v or 120v, it gives out only 14.5v...

secondly what it does it CONVERTS this AC current to DC..

your battery needs DC voltage to get charged..

so if you look at your stock RR unit, it has 2 phase, i.e

• it keeps AC current (given to the headlight) below 14.5v, this is done by 1 phase out of 2
• it converts the remaining current to DC and gives it to the battery, again suppressing it to 14.5v (done by second phase)

now what you will do is BUY a SINGLE phase RR aka APE RR..

it will only do 1 thing, i.e convert ALL the AC current to DC, limit it until 14.5v and provide it to the battery..

got it ???

now if you ask about rewinding, rewinding is a process in which the stator is winded with copper wire to give MORE current as we need better charging to run HIDs..

this is my re-winded coil (sorry for image quality)






and this is how the stock coil looks like (ignore the circles)






so its evident from the pictures that the COPPER thing is much more in the RE-WINDED coil, as well as the wire is fatter, so its much better winded.

so again i repeat..

what we are doing is making our charging system better by generating more current with the help of re-winding, and that RR, is to regulate/rectify all the AC current produced to DC and send it to battery .....


i hope i don't need to clarify any more doubts...