i completely agree with you sajan, you don't need to attach anything convincing more than your post.
from a long time I've been bothered with those vents, however YOU initially suggested me to attach clamp kind of things so that the air flow still remains without light leakage.

i trust you completely, but in my case when i opened the dome to re-adjust the beam as well as to check the relay and stuff, the problem I've been facing with high beam, i noticed that a lot of dust had been settled down inside the reflective surface of the projector.

hence i closed it, but it still is very much open, it still leaks light, and is still well ventilated, but comparatively less so that it doesn't get dusted, as it really affects the brightness of the projector.

but i clearly remember in many videos on youtube that they mentioned to close all the vents to PREVENT HEAT from escaping out, i could have asked it that day itself, but i trusted you more than anyone and without any second thoughts did what you recommended to leave the vents open.

i just mentioned here as a similar doubt had been put up.

but i still say, in my own opinion, to keep the vents ABOVE the projector closed so that the dust doesn't settle inside and keep the ones BELOW the projector open to keep it cooler.
as dust doesn't enter from below, gravity makes it fall downwards.

im thinking what if we add a small cpu fan at bottom of projector to make heat escape out , even on a 55 watt hid the projector will last very long i think this way

Thanks for taking my word

U r right, keep the vents closed from the front and let some gap behind to give more air circulation. I think this is already done in all OE Hls. If u try to open a projector from a HL assy u can see this. Heat vents are provided at the back. I still remember once I had a chance to open a Laura projector. Its a full unit with ballast and everything is bolted to the lens assy as a whole and this unit again bolted to the HL assy. Once u pull it out u can see the gaps just below the lens. The front portion of the HL assy is acting as a shroud and if u closely observe from the front glass, there r air gaps more than 2mm between the HL assy and the lens.

But in that case also there should not be any dust accumulation in the glass or lens as its fully sealed and the heat vents are provided just behind the HL assy by using L shaped rubber tubes. So there's only a little chance to get the dust inside.

Nano, check for the front and back side of ur HL assy for any dust entry. In Pulsar HL assy is fully sealed once u close the glass and the bulb is installed with the black rubber cover is fixed. Check for the cover seatings onto the bulb base also check for the L shaped heat vent tubes are there or not. Its meant for protecting the dome from direct water splashes but at the same time its not letting the dust too.


Puneet, if u install the kit as per the manufacturer's instructions, no need of any extra cooling device is required, else they would've mentioned.

as you already have seen the back of my dome is completely open
i cannot attach the rubber diaper kind of thing over it, the gap is pretty big.





however as its 1 piece including the glass, so its pretty much towards the front, and the dome shield is covering it completely, it has already survived terrible mumbai rains for 2 months, so water seepage is NIL.

but dust does accumulate easily, but still it doesn't enter the reflective surface as well as the glass in the front.
as I've closed the upper vents of the projector, so even that problem is pretty much sorted.

can you suggest me any other solution where i can enclose the open back part of the headlight assembly to oem level ??

So, thats the culprit. U need to close it any way to prevent dust going in. Try Mseal for a permanent or go for RTV sealant which I feel the best as it can be removed easily at any point of time. One big cyl will cost u less than 200/. Dont go for the small tube.

sajjt that RTV sealent is one which is semi transparent type ? is it heat resistant ?

Yes its semi transparent one and not heat resistant too. But there wont be much heat around the front glass sides and back sides too. Its a tried and tested sealant so no issues. The best part is its easy to remove.

HID help !

Guys, I own bajaj XCD 135cc. Its just around 16 months old and I am looking forward to get a HID installed on it to improve my vision during night rides. Currently I am not so happy with its headlight luminosity. BTW the XCD blog says it has DC Lighting ! ..... How will it affect my plans to install a HID ??? Can you also suggest which HID should I go for?? ..... I would be touring a lot ~!

If your bike has dc lighting then a Hid conversion is a easy job and no battery issues . go ahead whats your budget for hid ?

Guys the foll. pic shows where i have mounted my Ballast...as you can see its pretty close to the engine...do you think the engine's heat will affect the ballast?

@kinshuk
mate...is this the place you were referring to?

thank you

guys, i got a hella bi-xenon projector. This was used in BMW 3 series

in the attached picture i have marked a red color. Want to know what was the use of shutter in that projector. If anybody knows, pls throw some lights

@Swas
im not sure but maybe its a shield to prevent the light flash on to the on coming traffic?you took the this from the driver side dome right?usually driver side headlight have a shield to prevent light spreading on to the opp. traffic.

not this nut as it will have the heat problem there is one more more on the upper side...

where do you want me to put m-seal ??

i didn't get it !!
do you want me to fill silicon get all the way till the brim ??

RTR DC Conversion.

Hi all,
I already inform you that I have converted my RTR to full DC using a 3phase RR unit and without coil rewinding. Some of you asked me for the result in different RPM range. Here is that details for your ready reference, sorry for late reply as I was checking the setup for last 100Kms, now everything fine, so I can put the result here.

Charger: P220 3phase RR.
Magneto: Stock, but negative un-grounded.
Battery: Amaron 9ah
Battery Voltage: 14.50 v

CHARGING AT DIFFERENT RPM WITHOUT HID
1000 rpm – 16.28 v
2000 rpm – 16.43 v
6000 rpm – 16.46 v
9000 rpm – 16.46 v

CHARGING AT DIFFERENT RPM WITH HID ON
1000 rpm – 14.80 v
2000 rpm – 15.58 v
6000 rpm – 16.00 v
9000 rpm – 16.20 v

Here are some pictures of my setup for your reference.