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  • windrider007
    replied
    Re: Honda Unicorn

    My 2012 unicorn, 19K kms, has just had an engine decarbonisation done. Cost around Rs 800 in parts and labour. Was it really necessary?? The bike doesn't really feel any different. Also, i haven't heard any of my friends doing it on their bikes, so I am a bit confused. Plus I have been seeing tubeless rear tyres for the unicorn on websites. Has anyone tried them yet?

    Leave a comment:


  • saif71184
    replied
    Re: Honda Unicorn Carburettor Tuning and adjustment

    Originally posted by metallica84 View Post
    Hello all, has anyone here tried to tune the carburettor of their Unicorn? I was having problems with the fuel efficiency dropping and hiccups while accelerating(especially between the 3K-4K mark). So today I decided to tune my carb.

    Did some research on the internet, found two articles, one on tuning carbs in general and other specifically for the Unicorn. This article even has a video where tune-up process been demonstrated, albeit on an Apache RTR. The only difference we have to keep in mind that in our Unicorns, the fuel screw is accessed from the left and not the right.

    So I just tuned my own motorcyle! This was my first time and I feel I have gotten it right as the bike feels smoother while accelerating now. Feels really good.

    Now my question, is there a way to determine is the setting is right? I mean, it feels good when dricing, but are there any diagnostics or something that I can run to determine if the tune up has been done right?

    Another question, how exactly does the tune up get screwed up in the first place? I mean, this whole fuel efficiency dropping and jerky acceleration thing started happening all of a sudden. I did not take my bike to a mechanic or anything, didn't touch the carb. How did it happen? All of a sudden the efficiency dropped from 45+ to below 40?

    ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----



    The unicorn does not have a DC light, so it is normal for the light intensity to fluctuate along with the engine RPM. When he brakes, the engine RPM goes down which also causes the light to go dim.

    Try to pull in the clutch and twist the throttle very slightly to keep the RPM at 2000 while braking. This should help. Not the best braking technique, but there nothing else you can do unless you're willing to get new parts and replace your stock lights.

    ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----



    I have this exact problem on my 2013 unicorn. When the engine is cold, the bike stalls as soon as I try to accelerate. I think this problem is a "feature" of Honda Unicorn bikes. Nothing we can do about it. It gets worse during winters.

    I usually warm up my motorcycle by running it on choke for ~2 minutes every morning, and then let it idle for another minute before I ride.

    Another trick that I have discovered is, when you accelerate, and the bike began to lose power(hawa khana), let go of the accelerator a little. It will cause the engine to rev back up normally. Do this multiple times until the engine warms up sufficiently. Or you could just twist the throttle all the way and cause it rev up to max. Either way works fine for me.
    Strange but true solution!

    Leave a comment:


  • nitins
    replied
    Re: Honda Unicorn

    Hi All,

    I own a Honda Unicorn 2010 model black with alloy wheels. I recently re-located to Bangalore from Hyderabad. Any suggestions on a good mechanic near Malleswaram?
    Also was very surprised when the service guys told me the bike needs an engine overhaul. I want to get a second opinion to be sure.

    Regards,
    Nitin

    Leave a comment:


  • metallica84
    replied
    Honda Unicorn Carburettor Tuning and adjustment

    Hello all, has anyone here tried to tune the carburettor of their Unicorn? I was having problems with the fuel efficiency dropping and hiccups while accelerating(especially between the 3K-4K mark). So today I decided to tune my carb.

    Did some research on the internet, found two articles, one on tuning carbs in general and other specifically for the Unicorn. This article even has a video where tune-up process been demonstrated, albeit on an Apache RTR. The only difference we have to keep in mind that in our Unicorns, the fuel screw is accessed from the left and not the right.

    So I just tuned my own motorcyle! This was my first time and I feel I have gotten it right as the bike feels smoother while accelerating now. Feels really good.

    Now my question, is there a way to determine is the setting is right? I mean, it feels good when dricing, but are there any diagnostics or something that I can run to determine if the tune up has been done right?

    Another question, how exactly does the tune up get screwed up in the first place? I mean, this whole fuel efficiency dropping and jerky acceleration thing started happening all of a sudden. I did not take my bike to a mechanic or anything, didn't touch the carb. How did it happen? All of a sudden the efficiency dropped from 45+ to below 40?

    ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

    Originally posted by ravi_m View Post
    Dear all,
    Pl help one of my friend..
    On his unicorn 150, when speed comes down at speedbreaker or anything else bike headlight goes very deem. Difficult to see anything.

    Is there any setting in wiring or modification needed
    The unicorn does not have a DC light, so it is normal for the light intensity to fluctuate along with the engine RPM. When he brakes, the engine RPM goes down which also causes the light to go dim.

    Try to pull in the clutch and twist the throttle very slightly to keep the RPM at 2000 while braking. This should help. Not the best braking technique, but there nothing else you can do unless you're willing to get new parts and replace your stock lights.

    ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

    Originally posted by shatur87700 View Post
    the bike used to run like there is no fuel in the bike, or the fuel is not reaching the engine. Even after filling 14 liters of fuel in my bike early morning when i used to kick start my bike the bike used to sound the same way even when i used to warm the engine at idling for 5 minutes. Even after that for 1st 3 to 5 kilometers it was the same. Intermittently the bike used to behave like there is no fuel when the tank is full of fuel. My expert friends who have bikes for ages, said "arrey tera bike hava kha raha hai". When i asked them what it is, he told me that air fuel mixture wasnt correct. Time for the 1st servicing.
    I have this exact problem on my 2013 unicorn. When the engine is cold, the bike stalls as soon as I try to accelerate. I think this problem is a "feature" of Honda Unicorn bikes. Nothing we can do about it. It gets worse during winters.

    I usually warm up my motorcycle by running it on choke for ~2 minutes every morning, and then let it idle for another minute before I ride.

    Another trick that I have discovered is, when you accelerate, and the bike began to lose power(hawa khana), let go of the accelerator a little. It will cause the engine to rev back up normally. Do this multiple times until the engine warms up sufficiently. Or you could just twist the throttle all the way and cause it rev up to max. Either way works fine for me.

    Leave a comment:


  • pradeeppk
    replied
    Re: Bike headlight goes deem when speed comes down

    Originally posted by ravi_m View Post
    Dear all,
    Pl help one of my friend..
    On his unicorn 150, when speed comes down at speedbreaker or anything else bike headlight goes very deem. Difficult to see anything.

    Is there any setting in wiring or modification needed

    Leave a comment:


  • ravi_m
    replied
    Bike headlight goes deem when speed comes down

    Dear all,
    Pl help one of my friend..
    On his unicorn 150, when speed comes down at speedbreaker or anything else bike headlight goes very deem. Difficult to see anything.

    Is there any setting in wiring or modification needed

    Leave a comment:


  • Freak inExile
    replied
    Re: Engine oil dipstick having foamy/milky coating

    Originally posted by aniketmule View Post
    I referred some blog related to dirt bikes. They suggested to ride a bike for an hour, after an oil change so that remaining moisture/water in oil would evaporate.
    It may take longer than that, 10w30 may work out better than 10w40 in this scenario.

    Originally posted by aniketmule View Post
    So which one is better? I felt 10w-40 shell semi-synthetic oil is smoother while gear shifting but if its going to affect the mileage i will stick to 10w-30.
    I would say 10w40, many here & Honda may say 10w30.

    all the best.

    Leave a comment:


  • SatSon
    replied
    Re: Aftermarket brake pads for Honda Unicorn. What to buy, is it safe, and other questions..

    Originally posted by metallica84 View Post
    Haven't replaced the pads yet, but with the stock pads, they touch the disc. Although I don't think they press hard against it, coz I can slide a paper between the pads and the disc. But they touch.

    And the rotation of the front wheel is not 100% free, like that of the rear wheel. It is a little restricted, and it has been like this ever since i purchased the bike(I have done the rotation thing a few times in the past)

    Is this not normal?
    The disc pads will be touching slightly the rotor and the front wheel won't be free like rear wheel where we have drum brake.
    This is normal. No need to worry.

    Leave a comment:


  • aniketmule
    replied
    Re: Engine oil dipstick having foamy/milky coating

    Originally posted by Freak inExile View Post
    How deep in the water?


    10w30 in a motorcycle always feel rough. On the positive side, it'll help deliver better mileage.

    When you mix oil & water then beat it, you get white froth that doesn't mix with oil. I assuming that froth/foamy/milky was from water left over in there.


    It was around 3 feet water and whole bike was submerged under it. I have completed around 100-110KMs after oil change and the engine is running smoother and better now. And dipstick also looking much better. I am expecting to get it better with riding more. I referred some blog related to dirt bikes. They suggested to ride a bike for an hour, after an oil change so that remaining moisture/water in oil would evaporate.

    10w30 in a motorcycle always feel rough.
    So which one is better? I felt 10w-40 shell semi-synthetic oil is smoother while gear shifting but if its going to affect the mileage i will stick to 10w-30.

    ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

    Originally posted by asn39 View Post
    Sad to hear that buddy but you mentioned that previous oil had turned foamy white i suspect your new oil got mixed with old one
    May be because old oil was left in engine as usually nobody can completely wipe out oil off the engine unless we open and clean
    Similar to your case, happened with my activa but by gods grace nothing went wrong !
    Anyway i suggest wait for some experienced fellow meanwhile if you feel risky do not drive much

    The problem has gone now. I think riding the bike till engine reaches to its working temperature can solve this problem.

    Leave a comment:


  • Freak inExile
    replied
    Re: Engine oil dipstick having foamy/milky coating

    Originally posted by aniketmule View Post
    My Honda unicorn 150 was dipped under the flooded water stayed there for an hour.
    How deep in the water?

    Originally posted by aniketmule View Post
    I bought fully synthetic honda genuine oil for 650 Rs (Named something like Throttle and had SAE 10w-30 specification). I experienced that there is no smoothness in gear shifting or engine run like before and when i checked the dipstick it was covered with the foamy/milky substance. I rode the bike for only 50-60KMs after oil change. Is this a serious issue or just because I changed oil its happening?
    10w30 in a motorcycle always feel rough. On the positive side, it'll help deliver better mileage.

    When you mix oil & water then beat it, you get white froth that doesn't mix with oil. I assuming that froth/foamy/milky was from water left over in there.

    Leave a comment:


  • asn39
    replied
    Re: Engine oil dipstick having foamy/milky coating

    Originally posted by aniketmule View Post
    Two days back ...?
    Sad to hear that buddy but you mentioned that previous oil had turned foamy white i suspect your new oil got mixed with old one
    May be because old oil was left in engine as usually nobody can completely wipe out oil off the engine unless we open and clean
    Similar to your case, happened with my activa but by gods grace nothing went wrong !
    Anyway i suggest wait for some experienced fellow meanwhile if you feel risky do not drive much

    Leave a comment:


  • aniketmule
    replied
    Engine oil dipstick having foamy/milky coating

    Two days back we had a very heavy rainfall here in Pune. My Honda unicorn 150 was dipped under the flooded water stayed there for an hour. It was unable to start so after taking efforts for 2 hours so I parked it on road to dry over and took it to the mechanic next day. The mechanic observed the condition of the bike and changed the wet air filter (Which I had already replaced 10 days before the disaster), cleaned the carburetor, spark plug and changed the oil which had become foamy/milky white. I was using the semi-synthetic blend oil by shell(shell advance ax7 10w-40) before replacing it. As no good oils were available at the mechanic I bought fully synthetic honda genuine oil for 650 Rs (Named something like Throttle and had SAE 10w-30 specification). I experienced that there is no smoothness in gear shifting or engine run like before and when i checked the dipstick it was covered with the foamy/milky substance. I rode the bike for only 50-60KMs after oil change. Is this a serious issue or just because I changed oil its happening?

    Leave a comment:


  • asn39
    replied
    Re: Honda Unicorn

    It has been wonderful journey with xbhp i completed 23 today and wanted to thank xbhp for wishing me and to let me be part of this great community
    Did not know how to thank moderators so just posted here

    As far as my unicorn is concerned it will comolete 3 years in January
    Has clocked just 9100 kms

    Leave a comment:


  • metallica84
    replied
    Re: Aftermarket brake pads for Honda Unicorn. What to buy, is it safe, and other questions..

    Originally posted by Freak inExile View Post
    Replace them and rotate the front wheel on centre stand. If it's freely rotating you're good to go.

    Contact if any should push the cup pistons back, hence the some brake-fluid back into master cylinder.
    Haven't replaced the pads yet, but with the stock pads, they touch the disc. Although I don't think they press hard against it, coz I can slide a paper between the pads and the disc. But they touch.

    And the rotation of the front wheel is not 100% free, like that of the rear wheel. It is a little restricted, and it has been like this ever since i purchased the bike(I have done the rotation thing a few times in the past)

    Is this not normal?

    Leave a comment:


  • Freak inExile
    replied
    Re: Aftermarket brake pads for Honda Unicorn. What to buy, is it safe, and other questions..

    Originally posted by metallica84 View Post
    Thank you very much. One last question, is it normal for the pads to touch the disc even when the brake is not pressed? I mean, the brake lever is fully released, but the pads still remain in contact with the disc and don't get separated.
    Replace them and rotate the front wheel on centre stand. If it's freely rotating you're good to go.

    Contact if any should push the cup pistons back, hence the some brake-fluid back into master cylinder.

    Leave a comment:

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