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FZ is front heavy in stock form. With slim tires, its handling would become lighter and more sharper.
Mileage should go up by few kilometers.
Only disappointment being, it won’t look that heavy.
Thanks, I'll take note of that. I'll settle for a slightly slim profile if it offers same safety and reliability as stock. Currently hunting for the stock, because the reliability has been applaudable. Don't mind brands other than MRF too, if the same size is available. Know any?
Guys, found the stock front tyre on Amazon.in, would it be advisable to buy a tyre online, since it's scarce in local market?
Deliver to Rishikesh hmm ?
It's easily available at MRF outlets. Would advise against buying it online due to the manufacturing date and things you can't see.
I am from Haldwani and it's readily available but only at MRF authorised dealer. Price is ₹1650-1700.
Hello bros, last week one of my friend collide my r15's front end when he was reverse his verna.. front mudguard broken and slight scratches on 2 headlight doom..
the problem is the day before yesterday when i was coming from my office the bike just stopped middle of the road.. refused to start..when i check there is no petrol.. on the console 'F' (RESERVE ) Starts to blink and 24 km...( i know its bad habit about fi bikes.. but this is only second time i drive on reserve.. 1st time 46km i drove her on reserve ) then i filled 300 rs petrol (4.xx litre ).. yesterday when i check i can see fuel pump only half sink with petrol and i have 1 bar on console fuel metre.. earlier when fuel pump half sink, reserve F sign shows on console ..
1. only 24 km drive on reserve.. there is no petrol.. any chances of damaged fule level sensor ? ( due to accident ) or milage problem ?
2. i have zero depreciation insuarance.. can i claim for mudguard and headlight doom ? policy due date is dec 30 2017..
details about my bike : r15 v2 2016 december model, 10650 on odo reading..milage 40-50 km/l
Hello, my bike ditched into a pothole and the alloy wheel edge got slightly bent towards outwards. No its not sustaining air pressure more than 15psi n air leaking from the bent portion. Kindly suggest is it repairable or need to go for new wheel.
Location: indore M.P
Hello, my bike ditched into a pothole and the alloy wheel edge got slightly bent towards outwards. No its not sustaining air pressure more than 15psi n air leaking from the bent portion. Kindly suggest is it repairable or need to go for new wheel.
Location: indore M.P
Please replace it.
Ride, ride and ride.. But always do it responsibly..
Hello, my bike ditched into a pothole and the alloy wheel edge got slightly bent towards outwards. No its not sustaining air pressure more than 15psi n air leaking from the bent portion. Kindly suggest is it repairable or need to go for new wheel.
Location: indore M.P
Repairing is possible, but that depends on how the job is done. I had 3 bumps in my CBR's rear wheel and got tgem repaired. The repairs hold up pretty good.
But to be future proof, purchase new ones.
Repairing is possible, but that depends on how the job is done. I had 3 bumps in my CBR's rear wheel and got tgem repaired. The repairs hold up pretty good.
But to be future proof, purchase new ones.
The thing is any bend alloy is repairable, YES. But would I recommend it ? Definitely NO. The straightened part will be susceptible to extensive damage if the same area goes through similar kind of situation where it was bend in the first place. Our wheel is not a spoke wheel, but a forged one and the load-bearing parts cannot be simply changed like a spoke wheel component, as they are integral to the wheel and in this particular situation he was losing 15Psi and thats way too much for a bend to handle. Even when the alloy is straightened forcefully, the chance of a crack or bending are more likely to happen in the same place than a new alloy.If you nevertheless attempt a fix, do check the wheel for cracks with a bright light. Very often! Metal parts like this don't suddenly fail, they fail by developing cracks that slowly extend. Thus, do short rides first and once you become confident that short rides don't cause a crack to develop, you can take longer rides after which you again inspect for cracks.
Even a single crack, no matter how minor one, means the wheel must be immediately discarded.
He could try to put a tube inside if he is on a tight budget and replace when he have money. And more over, NO manufacturer recommends 'FIXING' a bend alloy, they recommend only replacing it. Phew.
Rear was just below 1k some 2 years back. Add 200/300Rs to that now. I forgot about the front
Thank you
I thought they might cost a lot. 1-1.5K is acceptable.
The rotors on my bike are really groovy and not smooth at all.
Also, the braking has degraded a lot. A complete braking overhaul is needed. The callipers have never been serviced/greased
As for repairing an alloy wheel, the bend will be heated and then hammered. This process will severely compromise the material strength of the whole wheel. You wouldn't want the alloy breaking on the highway or anywhere in traffic
7 years!! It took me 7 years to get home my first bike crush. I own a P220 and yesterday I got a Blue-Silver BS4 version R15 home. She is a beauty, by heart, by mind and my soul. Trying to find a comfortable riding stance to avoid wrist pains. She will definitely take me to Gym now for staying fit too. Speak about - "how people do things in love" 😂😂😊😊
Regards,
Akash Yadav
The world ain't all sunshine and rainbows. It is a very mean and nasty place. It will beat you to your knees and keep you there permanently if you let it.
880 front rear is 900 something. Get the oil seals changed. They cost 160 bucks and clean the piston completely with tooth brush and soap water. If you find pits or scratches junk the piston and get piston assembly with oil seals for 500 bucks. Remove the slider pins and clean them properly and remove any rust formation. Check the rubber boots if they are swollen and squishy get them changed and lubricate the slider pins with rubber grease or dalda ghee. Don't use bearing grease. They screw up rubber parts. Rotors will.have grooves no matter what you do. If the grooves are sharp or the rotor has become as thick as a potato chip then get it changed. Else do the other things and observe. Also check ur master cylinder piston seals. Keep us posted
880 front rear is 900 something. Get the oil seals changed. They cost 160 bucks and clean the piston completely with tooth brush and soap water. If you find pits or scratches junk the piston and get piston assembly with oil seals for 500 bucks. Remove the slider pins and clean them properly and remove any rust formation. Check the rubber boots if they are swollen and squishy get them changed and lubricate the slider pins with rubber grease or dalda ghee. Don't use bearing grease. They screw up rubber parts. Rotors will.have grooves no matter what you do. If the grooves are sharp or the rotor has become as thick as a potato chip then get it changed. Else do the other things and observe. Also check ur master cylinder piston seals. Keep us posted
CHEERS
Thank you for the detailed reply.
I will surely get these things done soon. A couple of rides in the hills last month made the braking condition worse. [emoji53]
Thank you for the detailed reply.
I will surely get these things done soon. A couple of rides in the hills last month made the braking condition worse. [emoji53]
Guys, my recently acquired R15 has 4700 on odo. It makes a slight buzzing sound from the top of the speedometer console. Also, there is a slight Khat-Khat sound coming from the front whenever I negotiate a Pune Level Speed breaker. The handle moves freely and there is no oil leak from the front forks. I was not able to look at it since it has been just 3 days since I took the ownership. Anyone here who knows what this is about and help?
Regards,
Akash Yadav
The world ain't all sunshine and rainbows. It is a very mean and nasty place. It will beat you to your knees and keep you there permanently if you let it.
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