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Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

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  • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

    Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post
    Since it was mentioned that oil consumption drops with the use of Flush I would suggest that the valve stem seals be inspected and replaced accordingly.

    I've seen videos on YouTube about how certain engine oil additives/engine flush etc. can curb oil seepage through valve stem seals and other such seals inside the motor without having to go for a replacement. But personally I feel its always best to change your seals as per recommended service limits.

    Plus this being a Yamaha should not ideally burn much oil unless running on Synthetic or Motul's.
    I have seen oil consumption increase like anything when I flushed my discover engine after 1 lakh kms but what he said is he was having oil consumption previously but when he started flushing his engine his consumption went down.
    OT:- sorry for the delay in sending you the tool. I will do it asap this weekend.
    Last edited by black asp; 08-03-2018, 02:52 PM.
    Yamaha RXZ 5 speed (sold)
    Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS fi( sold)
    Bajaj Discover 112(2006)
    Yamaha R15 V2(2011)
    Yezdi 250 model B(1978)
    RX 135 4 speed(1998)
    Yamaha Rajdoot 350(1989-unrestored)
    Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS-i (2011)Crashed and sold :'(
    Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS-i (2009-Fastest Indian)

    Comment


    • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

      Originally posted by black asp View Post
      With due respect sir you may be an automobile engineer but that does not explain how flushing an engine will lead to less consumption of oil. He may have used bold letters but that will be the reaction of any one who knows a bit about how their bikes work. Your suggestion on fuel pump may be controversial but can be accepted but whatever he said regarding ethanol makes even more sense. The statement regarding flushing at x kms leads to less oil consumption is hard to buy. I totally agree on the discretion warning that comes attached with fuel pump part but your flushing and less oil consumption logic is flawed. Resorting to profession is a knee jerk reaction when someone's views are countered but someone has to know the logic behind the claims. period.
      See there is a difference between flushing an engine at regular intervals than flushing at longer interval say 50k interval. There can be many reasons for oil consumption not related to engine wear. At the time of flushing odour is less than 10k KMS. The issue was it was a fake motul oil from Amazon. It was 600ml left after 3500km. Successive oil change also result in oil consumption around 300ml. As I said reasons can be many but in my case it's not mechanical issue. It can be a struck carbon in the oil rings or the bore. Diesel can be used as a flush which dissolves carbon. Not the hard ones but soot and semi hard carbon. This is why we need to flush at regular intervals. Thin oil washes the bore there by dislodging carbon from the walls piston, rings etc. Making it good seal between rings and cylinder. Frequent flushing is better than once in a lifetime time flush. Even after 51k on the odo my bike still deliver 50+ in city and 54 on highway. I have stopped giving to service after 6k KMS. I just do oil change and filter change at 10k interval along with diesel flush. After flush I could certainly feel the bike eager to run along with minimized clutch bell noise. As I said earlier I am not advising everybody to follow my method and at the same time manufacturer give just guidelines to avoid lawsuits and warranty.
      Adding 2T oil to petrol really helps. It contains poly iso butane which clears blocked injectors and lubes the pump shaft and protect pump from rust. You can see old Duke threads where most of the pump failure happens due to water .
      https://www.facebook.com/TopCoatDetailersTCD/
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      • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

        Originally posted by vijaycool View Post
        See there is a difference between flushing an engine at regular intervals than flushing at longer interval say 50k interval. There can be many reasons for oil consumption not related to engine wear. At the time of flushing odour is less than 10k KMS. The issue was it was a fake motul oil from Amazon. It was 600ml left after 3500km. Successive oil change also result in oil consumption around 300ml. As I said reasons can be many but in my case it's not mechanical issue. It can be a struck carbon in the oil rings or the bore. Diesel can be used as a flush which dissolves carbon. Not the hard ones but soot and semi hard carbon. This is why we need to flush at regular intervals. Thin oil washes the bore there by dislodging carbon from the walls piston, rings etc. Making it good seal between rings and cylinder. Frequent flushing is better than once in a lifetime time flush. Even after 51k on the odo my bike still deliver 50+ in city and 54 on highway. I have stopped giving to service after 6k KMS. I just do oil change and filter change at 10k interval along with diesel flush. After flush I could certainly feel the bike eager to run along with minimized clutch bell noise. As I said earlier I am not advising everybody to follow my method and at the same time manufacturer give just guidelines to avoid lawsuits and warranty.
        Adding 2T oil to petrol really helps. It contains poly iso butane which clears blocked injectors and lubes the pump shaft and protect pump from rust. You can see old Duke threads where most of the pump failure happens due to water .
        I have seen reverse happen after flushing the engine. The flush removed the carbon which helped seal the gaps and resulted in lots of oil drinking issues.
        Adding 2t may or may not help but not in the quantity you mentioned. Seriously 1.5ml for 1000 ml won't do any thing. Coming to bike health etc etc whatever you have mentioned I get the same things (bar mileage as mine is an open loop model that never gave above 40kmpl) only difference being my bike has run 3 times more than you. And yes I never visit a SVC center and no I am not an automobile engineer. I don't add 2t to fuel tank nor do a flush every 10k kms. I flush every 50k kms and that's it in done. There are tons of controversial things I have done to my bike too which work for me but I never post it here as they are baseless. What I feel may be different from what you feel. As pointed by [MENTION=89077]yamahamann[/MENTION] look and feel can't be sole deciding factors on what's good and what's bad.
        My request please stop dragging unnecessary profession and odo related arguments for your cause. There are even greater automobile giants in the forum and they never ever drag their profession or mileage under their belt to discussions.
        Signing off from this contagious discussion verging on borderline narcissism.
        Yamaha RXZ 5 speed (sold)
        Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS fi( sold)
        Bajaj Discover 112(2006)
        Yamaha R15 V2(2011)
        Yezdi 250 model B(1978)
        RX 135 4 speed(1998)
        Yamaha Rajdoot 350(1989-unrestored)
        Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS-i (2011)Crashed and sold :'(
        Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS-i (2009-Fastest Indian)

        Comment


        • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

          Originally posted by vijaycool View Post
          See there is a difference between flushing an engine at regular intervals than flushing at longer interval say 50k interval. There can be many reasons for oil consumption not related to engine wear. At the time of flushing odour is less than 10k KMS. The issue was it was a fake motul oil from Amazon. It was 600ml left after 3500km. Successive oil change also result in oil consumption around 300ml. As I said reasons can be many but in my case it's not mechanical issue. It can be a struck carbon in the oil rings or the bore. Diesel can be used as a flush which dissolves carbon. Not the hard ones but soot and semi hard carbon. This is why we need to flush at regular intervals. Thin oil washes the bore there by dislodging carbon from the walls piston, rings etc. Making it good seal between rings and cylinder. Frequent flushing is better than once in a lifetime time flush. Even after 51k on the odo my bike still deliver 50+ in city and 54 on highway. I have stopped giving to service after 6k KMS. I just do oil change and filter change at 10k interval along with diesel flush. After flush I could certainly feel the bike eager to run along with minimized clutch bell noise. As I said earlier I am not advising everybody to follow my method and at the same time manufacturer give just guidelines to avoid lawsuits and warranty.
          Adding 2T oil to petrol really helps. It contains poly iso butane which clears blocked injectors and lubes the pump shaft and protect pump from rust. You can see old Duke threads where most of the pump failure happens due to water .
          Fake Motul oil from Amazon? How did you distinguish between the fake one and the authentic one? Any test was done or you just went by the fake logic because your bike drank too much oil? Many of us here still buy oils and lubricants from Amazon. Please enlighten. Thanks.
          Honda Dio [2010 - 2011]
          Yamaha YZF R15 V2 [2011 - Present]
          Yamaha YZF R3 [2016 - Present]

          What's next? :)

          Comment


          • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

            Originally posted by Ashwiin Napster View Post
            Fake Motul oil from Amazon? How did you distinguish between the fake one and the authentic one? Any test was done or you just went by the fake logic because your bike drank too much oil? Many of us here still buy oils and lubricants from Amazon. Please enlighten. Thanks.
            Based on earlier buys from Amazon. I am not sure why everyone want me to prove with a proper oil testing methodology. Engine was vibrating badly, rpms once warm wasn't rising as earlier, too low boiling point almost 1/2 the oil got vanished. First 1000 km it was pretty good. It can be a genuine oil but bad batch too. I feel it's better for me to stop posting my experience . I find people are more comfortable in replying about ASS , trips and newbie questions.
            https://www.facebook.com/TopCoatDetailersTCD/
            https://www.instagram.com/topcoat_detailers/

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            • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

              Originally posted by vijaycool View Post
              Based on earlier buys from Amazon. I am not sure why everyone want me to prove with a proper oil testing methodology. Engine was vibrating badly, rpms once warm wasn't rising as earlier, too low boiling point almost 1/2 the oil got vanished. First 1000 km it was pretty good. It can be a genuine oil but bad batch too. I feel it's better for me to stop posting my experience . I find people are more comfortable in replying about ASS , trips and newbie questions.
              I have to agree with you on this. The oil (5100) had horrible smell after 1500 kms and the color was pitch black. Also there was a significant oil loss after 1500 kms that was not repeated in subsequent oil changes. I don't know about cloudtails but the oil I got was a lemon.
              Yamaha RXZ 5 speed (sold)
              Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS fi( sold)
              Bajaj Discover 112(2006)
              Yamaha R15 V2(2011)
              Yezdi 250 model B(1978)
              RX 135 4 speed(1998)
              Yamaha Rajdoot 350(1989-unrestored)
              Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS-i (2011)Crashed and sold :'(
              Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS-i (2009-Fastest Indian)

              Comment


              • Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

                Hi guys,

                My bike stopped working. The issue is whenever i try to start her up, the instrument console resets again showing all the lights as it does when you insert the key and turn on the bike. It gives a bit crank kind of noise. I've not used the bike for a month, bike was not covered for rains as i had no such issues before and this is my 4th year owning the bike Also, had no issue prior to that.

                I have given the bike to svc month back to fix the low rpm stall problem and my speedo was not working. All they did was change the speedo cables and component which fixed speedo meter and told me nothings wrong with your bike as i mentioned them about the problem about my bike stalling at low rpms.

                Now, bike stopped working altogether. Anyone has any clue as to what will be the reason? As, the svc I'm servicing is terrible and I'm thinking to give my bike to different svc. If someone knows whats the best svc in thane, please do let me know.

                Edit: background on the servicing of bike. I did complete servicing changing all the fluids also the clutch pad on June, 2018. And changed the speedo component to fix speedometer on July,2018. In August it stopped working.

                Comment


                • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

                  Originally posted by Dixant Thakore View Post
                  Hi guys,

                  My bike stopped working. The issue is whenever i try to start her up, the instrument console resets again showing all the lights as it does when you insert the key and turn on the bike. It gives a bit crank kind of noise. I've not used the bike for a month, bike was not covered for rains as i had no such issues before and this is my 4th year owning the bike Also, had no issue prior to that.

                  I have given the bike to svc month back to fix the low rpm stall problem and my speedo was not working. All they did was change the speedo cables and component which fixed speedo meter and told me nothings wrong with your bike as i mentioned them about the problem about my bike stalling at low rpms.

                  Now, bike stopped working altogether. Anyone has any clue as to what will be the reason? As, the svc I'm servicing is terrible and I'm thinking to give my bike to different svc. If someone knows whats the best svc in thane, please do let me know.

                  Edit: background on the servicing of bike. I did complete servicing changing all the fluids also the clutch pad on June, 2018. And changed the speedo component to fix speedometer on July,2018. In August it stopped working.
                  Most probably your battery had died, if you're still using the stock battery then its time to get new one.
                  My bike showed same symptoms when the battery was on its way out.

                  Comment


                  • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

                    dixant - your battery is dead..change it asap..meanwhile, if you have to ride it to the SVC to change the battery, switch the bike on (even if it doesn't show all those instrument checking activity), get the bike on second gear, and then physically run with the bike a few metres while simultaneously trying to open a bit of throttle and releasing the clutch lever a bit (do this carefully with control of the bike while running with it or you may fall with your bike)..the engine should then crank open and you can ride the bike just make sure never to let the RPM go below 2000 (or so) or else the engine might switch off again..

                    coincidentally, came here to write that my 5 months new battery, that has run only around 2000-2500 kms died on me deep in UP countryside 55 kms away...after panicking for a while, i did what i described above and managed to get it home through some bad roads and terrible traffic with the engine RPM forever over 4000..god knows how much of the clutch plate i burnt today because of not letting the bike slow down its RPM as usual when crawling through traffic and negotiating brokenass roads in some parts ..

                    no idea why such a new battery (last one, which was stock, lasted over 27000 kms) has gone kaput so soon..yet another headache to take care of soon.

                    Comment


                    • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

                      Originally posted by aditya_YZF-R15 View Post
                      dixant - your battery is dead..change it asap..meanwhile, if you have to ride it to the SVC to change the battery, switch the bike on (even if it doesn't show all those instrument checking activity), get the bike on second gear, and then physically run with the bike a few metres while simultaneously trying to open a bit of throttle and releasing the clutch lever a bit (do this carefully with control of the bike while running with it or you may fall with your bike)..the engine should then crank open and you can ride the bike just make sure never to let the RPM go below 2000 (or so) or else the engine might switch off again..

                      coincidentally, came here to write that my 5 months new battery, that has run only around 2000-2500 kms died on me deep in UP countryside 55 kms away...after panicking for a while, i did what i described above and managed to get it home through some bad roads and terrible traffic with the engine RPM forever over 4000..god knows how much of the clutch plate i burnt today because of not letting the bike slow down its RPM as usual when crawling through traffic and negotiating brokenass roads in some parts ..

                      no idea why such a new battery (last one, which was stock, lasted over 27000 kms) has gone kaput so soon..yet another headache to take care of soon.
                      Hey, thanks! Will get it checked and replaced.

                      And does the engine stall at low rpms also because of dead battery?

                      Comment


                      • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

                        Originally posted by Dixant Thakore View Post
                        Hey, thanks! Will get it checked and replaced.

                        And does the engine stall at low rpms also because of dead battery?

                        you mean once the battery is already showing signs of going out of life? in that case, yes, it did sometimes seem to give a momentary feeling of "just about to stall" even at 2000-3000 RPM (at least in my case today) which is substantially higher than idling RPM region, thus why i made sure to keep the RPM over 4000 (actually i kept it mostly over 5-6000 because of paranoia) even at low gears and low speed (using a lot of partial clutching)..basically i was frequently roaring the throttle with full or partial clutch disengaged pretty much all the ride back except for a few stretches where i could maintain a good speed at higher gears...to other people i must have appeared like one of those showoffs who roar their throttle at slow speeds through crawling traffic for attention lol
                        Last edited by aditya_YZF-R15; 08-07-2018, 01:58 AM.

                        Comment


                        • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

                          Guys .....can someone tell me how to adjust the length of the shock absorber?. I have a friend and he weighs around 85kgs and is using my bike to attend his daily works and he's been driving with pillion riders every now and then who weighs even more than him thus taking the total weight greater than 170kgs which is causing the shock absorber to squeeze so much that it's rubbing against the plastic top over the chain set. Please see it in the pics attached here. That silver color is because of that. So every time i sit as a pillion rider, I can feel it rubbing against that plastic top whenever the bike hits a bump or a speed breaker. Thus making me scared of the thought that something might happen to the bike if this continues. So I am seeking ur help in this matter guys. Also the svc guys in my city know nothing but robbing money so I can't go there. ( I had a terrible experience with those guys).
                          Thank you [emoji120] [emoji120] [emoji120] Click image for larger version

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                          Comment


                          • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

                            Originally posted by aditya_YZF-R15 View Post
                            you mean once the battery is already showing signs of going out of life? in that case, yes, it did sometimes seem to give a momentary feeling of "just about to stall" even at 2000-3000 RPM (at least in my case today) which is substantially higher than idling RPM region, thus why i made sure to keep the RPM over 4000 (actually i kept it mostly over 5-6000 because of paranoia) even at low gears and low speed (using a lot of partial clutching)..basically i was frequently roaring the throttle with full or partial clutch disengaged pretty much all the ride back except for a few stretches where i could maintain a good speed at higher gears...to other people i must have appeared like one of those showoffs who roar their throttle at slow speeds through crawling traffic for attention lol
                            I faced the same exact issue you're mentioning last month. My bike gave feeling of stalling and eventually stalls below 2/3k rpm. Gave svc to fix it. They changed some throttle cable as my speedo also stopped working and told me bike is fine.

                            If changing battery fixed your issue. I'll do it first thing.

                            Thanks!

                            Comment


                            • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

                              Originally posted by praveen6494 View Post
                              Guys .....can someone tell me how to adjust the length of the shock absorber?. I have a friend and he weighs around 85kgs and is using my bike to attend his daily works and he's been driving with pillion riders every now and then who weighs even more than him thus taking the total weight greater than 170kgs which is causing the shock absorber to squeeze so much that it's rubbing against the plastic top over the chain set. Please see it in the pics attached here. That silver color is because of that. So every time i sit as a pillion rider, I can feel it rubbing against that plastic top whenever the bike hits a bump or a speed breaker. Thus making me scared of the thought that something might happen to the bike if this continues. So I am seeking ur help in this matter guys. Also the svc guys in my city know nothing but robbing money so I can't go there. ( I had a terrible experience with those guys).
                              Thank you [emoji120] [emoji120] [emoji120] [ATTACH]242662[/ATTACH][ATTACH]242663[/ATTACH][ATTACH]242664[/ATTACH]
                              Lower your expectations a bit. You can't adjust anything on the shock.
                              Your shock is gone and you should get it changed
                              Last edited by black asp; 08-07-2018, 01:36 PM.
                              Yamaha RXZ 5 speed (sold)
                              Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS fi( sold)
                              Bajaj Discover 112(2006)
                              Yamaha R15 V2(2011)
                              Yezdi 250 model B(1978)
                              RX 135 4 speed(1998)
                              Yamaha Rajdoot 350(1989-unrestored)
                              Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS-i (2011)Crashed and sold :'(
                              Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS-i (2009-Fastest Indian)

                              Comment


                              • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

                                Originally posted by black asp View Post
                                Lower your expectations a bit. You can't adjust anything on the shock.
                                Your shock is gone and you should get it changed
                                [emoji21] [emoji21] [emoji21] [emoji21] [emoji21] ....thanks bro

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