Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Guys any ideas to decrease the sluggishness and ruffness of my V2.0 2015 model?. I bought it for seconds when the odo meter reads 13k and I have decreased the initial severe ruffness and sluggishness to a greater level by cleaning & lubing the chain, filling the radiator with motul motocool, using motul 15w50 engine oil for every 2.5k kms & using system G for fuel injection cleaning. But I still think there's not much pickup in the bike and it feels ruff while riding on the busy traffic roads. I just want it to be butter smooth [emoji18] [emoji18] [emoji18] (Currently the odo reads 23k+ kms.)

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Okay the issue I am encountering is, I got my bike washed 3-4 days ago and after that it refused to start, i opened the tank lock and found soapy water on the inside part of tank lock.. few minutes later it started but again shut off as if fuel supply is not going to tank...i manged to ride it back home and ridden 50-60 kms. since then.. now the tank lock is not opening, i sprayed WD-40 twice.. but the key is not moving.. also bike is standing partially under rain..

Now considering above should i get the lock changed..?? should i remove all the petrol (barely of 60 bucks left), get the lock changed and fill new petrol..?? or should i simply just keep trying WD -40 to get the lock open..??

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

For injector cleaning I use Addon additive and some times 2T oil 1 ~ 1.5 ml per liter in the tank. For flush I use diesel around 300 ml and rest old oil. Run only for 45 secs and cool down period of 5~10 mins. Repeat 3~4 times. Then drain the mix and get cheap mineral oil circulate for 2 mins. Remove fresh oil now that can be used as chain lube in my case i use as engine oil for my dads scooty. Replace with new filter and use your favorite oil. Do it at your own risk and dont blame me later if something went wrong.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Doesn't look like replacement is necessary for the lock but confirm with SC. I had the same problem and there was stubborn sir stick inside the lock which they cleaned out for me.

As for the petrol, to be safe, cycle it out and wag the tank inside with petrol. Check if the bike stops at greater fuel, half tank at least. If it only happens when fuel is low, change the fuel filter

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0


haha sure man i won't blame you for anything.

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on other note, i am about to be moving and it's such a massive headache trying to decide how to transfer my bike..railways is cheaper (but not by a lot) but takes a whole lot of your time and effort, but is also the most secure one in general..with private movers one hardly has to do anything, they take care of it all door-to-door but it's costlier and i am not sure how secure a bike can be being transported around in the country on the back of a truck..

sorry for the OT, just wanted to rant and vent this out somewhere..

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

I am more concerned about how to open that tank lock, as i have already ridden 55 kms. in reserve and i don't think enough is left to ride it to SVC..

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

If nothing is working then hammer a small screw driver gently and turn around using a pair of pliers.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

What do you actually want to do with the bike? Never knew modern day FI engines are so complicated!
Firstly Diesel - why and where; in fuel tank or engine oil casing? And the followed by Mineral, again and where? Are you really suggesting it for FI cleaners or rebuilding/restoring 2 strokes?

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

I had the same question. I just don't see the point in flushing the engine every 10k kms. And using 2t with petrol and stuff. I know a few old bulleteers who add 2t to oil tank because their antiquated oil pump is garbage. Never seen any guy with modern engine use 2t. What I know 2t oil in a modern 4 stroke engine is not good.

CHEERS

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

In engine terminology flush refers to engine flush. For tank I use Adon additive. First flush I did at 20K kms after that I am doing at 10k intervals and I find it comfortable. Earlier there was some loss of oil around 150~200 ml but after regular flush there is a loss of 50ml after 3500km.

After the introduction of Ethanol blended petrol, ethanol absorbs hell lot of water from the atmosphere if fuel is not utilised within few days. Condensed water will damage the injector and fuel pump. Adding oil once in a while can lubricate the pump and eliminate the whining noise. It can be a old bullet juggard but plenty useful for the modern FI engines too.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Guys, how much does a chain and the sprockets effect the performance of a bike? When should a person replace the sprockets and when should anyone lube the chain ? I mean in intervals like for how many km's and what is the best product to lube the chain?. Please teach me some knowledge on this. [emoji4] [emoji4] [emoji4]

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

So your source of this research is how comfortable it makes you feel?

What is the correlation between an engine flush and oil loss? Are you implying that pouring diesel in the combustion chamber of a four stroke bike engine is advisable?

Would you mind sharing the source of these facts as well?

FYI, Pure ethanol is hygroscopic (which is to say it can absorb moisture). Once it is blended with petrol (5-10% ratio in India) it becomes homogeneous and cannot be separated; thus no longer absorbs moisture. A simple google search will help figure this out.

I'm surprised as to why Yamaha and other Auto manufacturers have not mentioned oiling the fuel pump as a routine maintenance. Well its because a fuel pump is designed to pump fuel and not oil. So my kind request to you is this; Please stop giving ignorant advise to people on the forum and stick to facts which you can back up with logic.



Chain/Sprocket is the final drive gear in your bike, keeping it lubricated has major benefits on performance and efficiency, some key benefits are:

1. Extended life of chain/sprocket is good for your pocket as you can delay the change interval (A well lubed chain can last twice as much as a ill maintained one)
2. Less friction in chain drive will increase fuel efficiency and power although slightly
3. Reduced chain noise, smoother ride

You should replace the chain/sprocket preferably as a set, once the chain slack is loose beyond your manufacturers recommended specification or when the sprocket teeth wear out unevenly/get hooked.

If you can see visible sprocket wear or hooking of the teeth, don't start any trips, even for just a weekend, unless you replace the chain and sprockets.

Best way to determine when chain needs lubing is a simple visual inspection, if it looks dry/dirty then its time to lubricate it. Cleaning a chain once every couple of thousand kilometers is also great way to ensure good chain life.

There are number of products in the market for lubricating drive chain, you can use lubricant sprays (Motul, TVS, Threebond, etc) all of them work. Sprays usually last for 300-500 KMs depending on riding conditions, you may need to re-apply every time after riding in rains.

Another longer lasting but slightly messy option is to apply PTFE grease on your chain, it is thicker than lubricant spray and will stay on the chain for 600-800 KMs depending on riding conditions.

A well maintained chain is the easiest and most efficient way to get the most out of your bike.

All the best and Ride Safe

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Dont be too sarcastic which is evident from your post. I am not giving any advise . I have just said what I am following. If you do not agree just pass on , no need to shout "in bold letters". Just FYI I am an Automobile engineer and my daily bread, jam , bun etc is Automobile.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

With due respect sir you may be an automobile engineer but that does not explain how flushing an engine will lead to less consumption of oil. He may have used bold letters but that will be the reaction of any one who knows a bit about how their bikes work. Your suggestion on fuel pump may be controversial but can be accepted but whatever he said regarding ethanol makes even more sense. The statement regarding flushing at x kms leads to less oil consumption is hard to buy. I totally agree on the discretion warning that comes attached with fuel pump part but your flushing and less oil consumption logic is flawed. Resorting to profession is a knee jerk reaction when someone's views are countered but someone has to know the logic behind the claims. period.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Since it was mentioned that oil consumption drops with the use of Flush I would suggest that the valve stem seals be inspected and replaced accordingly.

I've seen videos on YouTube about how certain engine oil additives/engine flush etc. can curb oil seepage through valve stem seals and other such seals inside the motor without having to go for a replacement. But personally I feel its always best to change your seals as per recommended service limits.

Plus this being a Yamaha should not ideally burn much oil unless running on Synthetic or Motul's.