Re: KTM 200 Duke

I have faced a couple of fork oil leaks on my 2012 model. What you can do is, buy the fork boots and newer oil seals from the SVC and install them on your bike. My older 2012 model did not have these new upgrades, but they can be easily fitted on the bike. Another suggestion would be using the new front mudguard which has a dust and muck deflector.

cheers!

Re: KTM 200 Duke


Yes, i have also received similar feedback on MRF rear tyre.
I'm going with MRF Revz FC1 front tyre.
Thanks you for all inputs.

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You can use seal protector(incase it is not there in your model) which is available with new model. No modification required, just add those and you can use sleeves as well for extra protection.

Re: KTM 200 Duke

Will try what you have suggested and hope for the best. Is the mudguard of the 2017 model different than that of the 2015 model?

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You can use seal protector(incase it is not there in your model) which is available with new model. No modification required, just add those and you can use sleeves as well for extra protection.[/QUOTE]

Mine is a 2015 model. I don't think it has a seal protector. Will check and have it installed. Thanks!

Re: KTM 200 Duke

I have found the usd to be (for a lack of better words) more rigid, less twitching and better front end feel especially on braking hard. USD forks are usually beefier (i.e. thicker) and help with better stability. But say even when compared to a bike with beefier regular forks like the fz series or a P220, i've found the usd setup on the ktm much better when it comes to suspension feel, feedback and control.

The only down-side being it is a pain when the seals go bust, which happens say around once a year considering our dusty environment. You could minimize this by using a full fork gaitor (the rubber boot that goes over the forks) and periodically cleaning out the dust boot/dust & oil seal using the ktm fork doctor tool which again you have to insist at the svc, or get the tool yourself and do the cleaning periodically.


The plastic protectors on the front fork that came in later models do little to prevent the seal going bust. I am someone who has had them installed, but have had to replace the seals (right side once under warranty, and then recently both sides by paying for it.) twice in 3.5 yrs. A better option would be to install full fork gaitors.
We should first understand what causes the seal to leak, because it is not always a 'failed' (i.e. torn seal)
the fork system on the ktm's come with three 'seals':
- the dust boot which is what you see on the outside, which can be slid down with your hand , this was included in later models in India (i think late 2013 onwards). I don't think the EU export models get this bit.
- the dust seal, which sits under the dust boot
- the actual fork oil seal which sits behind the dust seal. There is a circlip that holds the oil seal in place (located between the dust seal and oil seal)

The a couple reasons why a leak occurs: The primary cause being trapped dust particles.
- trapped dust particles prevent the oil seal from sealing properly, this can be fixed by cleaning them out with the fork seal cleaning tool (or similar diy methods.. google it). A seal replacement might not be required.
- sometimes these dust particles might end up causing a tear in the oil seal, and in such a case no amount of cleaning will arrest the leak. A seal replacement is the only way out. so, at first you could try and clean them out to see if it fixes the issue before going in for replacement.
- Or the worse thing that can happen is a fork tube with scratches/pitting/rust.. this will end up tearing the seal, no matter how many times you keep replacing the seals. The way out is to replace the fork tubes.

So to minimize the chance of a fork oil leak, keep the fork tubes clean (preferably wipe with a wet cloth) and clean out the seals say once in three months, add a full fork gaitor or something like an additional diy neoprene fork protector from one Mr.Dhaval (search on youtube) And don't overfill oil in the forks, usually 440ml is sufficient (recommended in 450ml, but i've seen them dump in the entire 480ml)

Re: KTM 200 Duke

S1d, Nice explanation.
But one more thing, can you explain in picture what is dust seal and dust boot?

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Guys, What is the review on Pirelli Sport dragon as Front tyre for my Duke 200?
I made my mind to buy MRF Revz FC1 but i saw Pirelli, Price range between both is huge atleast.
Pirelli is H Rating and MRF is S Rating. Pass on your inputs. TIA.

Re: KTM 200 Duke

Below is a video showing the fork seal replacement (this has only the dust seal and the fork oil seal).. the dust boot/cover is specific to the indian models (the initial models did not have this, was introduced late 2013 iirc), the dust boot is what you see on the outside on the indian models (and maybe some export models)

The official part names might be slightly different.. but basically you have three things.. the oil seal, dust seal, and an outer dust cover(specific to indian models)
The fork seal kit includes both the oil seal and the dust seal, but not the outermost dust cover.

Since 2016 onward they included extra plastic bits called fork protectors, which is mounted externally to the fork at same mounting points as the mudguard. costs 45 bucks a piece iirc, i've added them on.

You can also head over to KTM.SparePartsFinderFrontend and get a better idea on the parts. Look for "W/o ABS B.D " model under the part search.

Re: KTM 200 Duke

Guys, What is the cost of fork bend removal for ktm duke 200?
If anybody has done it, please let me know ASAP about recent price.
TIA

Re: KTM 200 Duke

Approximately 300/350 for both tubes.

Cheers!
VJ

Interchanging Duke200 Alloy wheel to Spoke Wheels

RE Himalayan rear wheel is 17in ?same as duke wheels. is it possible to interchange? and what all to be measured and checked for its feasability?

Re: KTM 200 Duke

My ODO has crossed 30000kms. Bike model is 2016 and purchased in July 2016.

06nos of servicings done till date; last service at 26310kms.

Following components replaced till now:

1. Air filter change at second service. (ASC claims the filter seems clean enough at sixth service, will get it replaced irrespective of cleanliness condition at next service)
2. Front disc pad change at 15461kms (Fourth service).
3. Spark plug change at 15461kms (Fourth service).
4. Fuel filter change at 16700kms.
5. Chain Sprocket set change at 17496kms.
6. Front and Rear tyre change at 28477kms.

I have never carried out the following:

1. Coolant change
2. Throttle body cleaning
3. Fork seal change
4. Fork oil change
5. Valve clearance check
6. Disc brake oil line bleeding
7. Disc brake oil change
8. Accelerator and Gearbox cable change
9. And Maybe more, please point it out in your reply and do not assume that it may have been done (except engine oil and oil filter change )

Present issues with the bike:

1. Some buzzing sound from near the console when the engine vibrations are high like at high RPM in low gears and when going over a bad patch of road. Not sure how to resolve it.
2. My gear shifter link does not grip the splines on the gear shifter shaft. Bolt is fully tight and the lever just slides off the splines if I pull it out with normal force. Presently the link is just secured on the shaft with a cable tie.
   I will be changing the entire assembly.
3. Sometimes I get the low battery alarm, if I ride in 1st gear stop-go traffic for 10mins or so. It goes once the revs go up. So does that mean that the stator/alternator is fine and I only have to replace the battery?

Thanks!

Re: KTM 200 Duke

Since most the fluids haven't been replaced, I'd first recommend doing that. Secondly, a throttle body cleaning is definitely advised. A gummed up throttle body means the fuel spay/flow isn't efficient enough, would can and would induce vibrations due to improper combustion. Thirdly, if you frequently observe low battery warning on the console, it's time to check your BATTERY first. Do this check at any battery kirana or SVC, using a simple test it's easy to know which is at fault, battery or stator coil. Since you've neglected most of the things, I reckon you must have ruled out the battery too.

Check your battery, check the charging voltage at the battery terminals and check the voltage reading 13.5 to 15 volts at the terminal at a steady 5000 RPM, if it's anymore or lesser than 13, it's time to replace the stator.

Bottomline; get that throttle body cleaned for a more lively feel, importantly get your battery charging voltage checked.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: KTM 200 Duke

Thanks for clearing up throttle body importance, and I will check the battery voltage.

Re: KTM 200 Duke

Surprised your svc doesn't change all the filters at every service.. not that it is absolutely necessary. The airfilter though I find gets dirty enough by around 6-7k km to warrant a change (Again that depends on the environment in which you ride).
This time around, just ask them to replace all the filters (comes as a periodic service kit)
Brake pads just inspect and replace if required i.e. if the pad material left is <1mm.
Coolant change: Good preventive maintenance to get it replaced every 2yrs.
Throttle body cleaning: If there are no issues such as irregular idle, jerky throttle response, poor fe.. better leave it alone at least until around 35k km. Or get a throttle body cleaning spray and spray it carefully via the airbox taking care to not let the cleaner touch plastic parts (because it might damage the plastic.. atleast the 3m cleaner that i use eats up plastic/rubber parts)
Fork oil and seal: 2-3yrs should be ok between fork oil replacement.
Valve clearance check: Leave it alone if you do not face any issues like excessive noise. Them monkeys might mess up what is perfectly fine.
Brake fluid: Again a good practice to replace it every 2-3yrs
Cables: check and replace if required(i.e. if you see any frayed ends). Otherwise Clean the cable inner by dripping some petrol thru the line, and then use very little to lube it.

The buzzing sound could be from the fuel tank cap, well known issue on the dukes. Keeps popping up once in a while for me. I just ignore it and ride. If that's the issue in your case, you could try loosening the bolts and tightening them again or replacing the "cup-cap" i.e. the rubber part that goes under the fuel tank cap. If you are sure it is from the console area, again open up the front headlight unit, check if anything inside could be a potential culprit causing that buzz and put it back together.
Get the parts replaced to fix that shifter linkage.
Get the battery checked at the svc.. they usually have a battery tester tool. Apart from that use a simple multi-meter and check the voltages at the battery:
a. without starting the bike - should be around 12.6 V
b. At around 5000 rpm - approx 14.4 V

Repeat these voltage tests using a multimeter after riding a bit again after a couple of days. I had a low batt warning a few months ago (my bike is now3.5 yrs old on stock battery) when they connected their battery checking tool (which i presume does a load test), never saw that warning earlier.. so asked them to leave it as is and i rode the bike around as-usual and did not see that warning again (been 5 months now)

Re: KTM 200 Duke

How frequent do we need to tighten chain?
I had not tightened chain for 3k kms..
Any problem running on slightly loose chain?

Re: KTM 200 Duke

Thanks! Will follow your advise!!