Re: KTM Duke 390 - Ownership Reviews and Experiences

Try to get the wheel balanced. I faced the same around 140 and got the wheels balanced. After that it was stable even at 165! Before that, just check if the rim is not bent and the air pressure is alright.

Re: KTM Duke 390 - Ownership Reviews and Experiences

Firstly, check your inline fuel filter, secondly check the fuel quality/quality and then thirdly consider the stepper motor/fuel pressure pump check. Over time, the fuel filter gets clogged and can reduce the fuel feed. If you haven't considered replacing the filter, now is the time to do so. Secondly, pump fuel quality/quantity (not to rule out any basic factor) and lastly, if both of the above don't solve the problem, I'd recommend you to consider inspecting the idle stepper motor and or fuel pump pressure. Keep your observations posted.

Could be due to low tire pressure and also could be due to a failed wheel bearing/stem bearings et cetera or as simple as a loose triple tree. I'd recommend you to start off with checking the slack of the triple tree, check if it's either too loose or too tight, and get it adjusted. Secondly, check your T step bearings, a failed bearing can make the front end feel wonky at different speeds. Thirdly, wheel bearings and tire pressure and wheel balancing, as simple as they may sound, it can affect after certain speeds. Keep us posted.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: KTM Duke 390 - Ownership Reviews and Experiences

Guys today while coming to office my rear brake stopped working when I checked piston was jammed. Since I was getting late I left bike in near by garage. Got a call he has cleaned system it's working now but it's not creating enough pressure to stop in speeds. He is telling master cylinder replacement. I have asked him to do it. What is the actual cost of master cylinder. I just want to have a fair idea before he confirm the price.

Re: KTM Duke 390 - Ownership Reviews and Experiences

I don't think a throttle body replacement will be required. Maybe just the ics.. Next time insist to get a diagnostic check.
Possibly a wheel that is not true, or a bad tire. First check the tire for any obvious damage such as bumps and then the alloy wheel checked for truness and wheel balancing if you can find someone who does it for two wheelers.
Make sure you are running the correct tire pressure.. Usually around 26~28psi at the max.

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I don't think a throttle body replacement will be required. Maybe just the ics.. Next time insist to get a diagnostic check.
Possibly a wheel that is not true, or a bad tire. First check the tire for any obvious damage such as bumps and then the alloy wheel checked for truness and wheel balancing if you can find someone who does it for two wheelers.
Make sure you are running the correct tire pressure.. Usually around 26~28psi at the max.

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I think to u get repair kits instead of replacing entire Mc kit. They are usually called the minor / major kit which essentially contains the parts that go into the Mc or the calipers depending on what needs to be repaired.

Re: KTM Duke 390 - Ownership Reviews and Experiences

The rear master cylinder costs Rs. 1200~. Secondly, master cylinder failure is extremely rare unless, the brake system wasn't inspected and fluid changed periodically. If a piston jam was the culprit, it's advisable to thoroughly overhaul, i.e. clean the caliper and replace the piston seal and caliper pins greased and fresh fluid topped up and the system bled thoroughly.

Usually, after a brake bleed, the rear brake feedback tends to be woody or requiring significantly more force that what it used to be to get the same stopping feedback before the overhaul. This settles itself in a couple of days with normal usage with a little more attention to this particular brake, pressing it hard with pressure than normal, this helps the calipers and the pistons to settle fully and freely after an overhaul and system bleed.

Give it a few days, try using the rear brake with a little extra force until it gives you the proper feedback and see how it fares. if it still isn't confidence inspiring, it's advisable to go ahead with the master cylinder rebuild. Also do keep a tab on your pad life, very important before all the procedures. Rebuild kits are available for both front and rear master cylinders, and the entire cylinder aren't required to be replaced.

Do keep your observations jotted.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: KTM Duke 390 - Ownership Reviews and Experiences

Changed the fuel filter and cleaning the throttle body fixed it. I don't see the rpm varying anymore.

Re: KTM Duke 390 - Ownership Reviews and Experiences

Correct tyre pressure to 28.Now I could feel wobbling after 135kmph speeds.
My bike is running with MRF & Tyree pressure mentioned on it is 33. What KTM suggest?
I feel slight lateral movement in T joint. I have service interval coming up after 1000kms (10days). I would give to SVC & get it cleared.

Re: KTM Duke 390 - Ownership Reviews and Experiences

The reason you felt the wobble is a loose T stem/T-joint. The T-Stem is what holds the entire front end. When a T stem is loose or excessively tight, the steering action feels twichy and you feel the steering acting weird when taking corners and speed wobbles when going over certain speed. From your observation, you've mentioned lateral movement on the T joint, meaning your T stem is loose, which is why the wobble. Get it tightened, a two min job at the SVC and observe how it fares, should solve the problem. Keep us posted on your observations.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: KTM Duke 390 - Ownership Reviews and Experiences

What is printed on the tire is the max pressure recommended by the tire manufacturer.
If you mostly ride solo and weight less than 80kgs, keep the front at 28 psi and rear at 30psi. If you weigh a lot more or frequently carry a pillion, bump up the rear to 32 psi.

Re: KTM Duke 390 - Ownership Reviews and Experiences

Thanks for the clarification on Tyree pressure.
I am planning to buy hand guard what do you suggest.
Does it make sense to buy after market one with led lights ( I may have to do some wiring ) or stock one is better.

Re: KTM Duke 390 - Ownership Reviews and Experiences

One of the reason for front tyre wobbling is because wornout front tyre. Do get them checked too.

Re: KTM Duke 390 - Ownership Reviews and Experiences

An update after running close to 1500 Kms.

-No such trace of black substance(gunk/dirt/oil) in the coolant reservoir.
-Coolant is still at the same position.
-Engine oil still looks blood red.

Verdict: That black substance inside the coolant reservoir must be some rust particles which got accumulated by the time.

Re: KTM Duke 390 - Ownership Reviews and Experiences


i have used the ceat for good 22k km and it was not even half way. its a good tyre for touring but the grip is so so.
if you plan to use it around city then its a perfect tyre. absorbs bumps pretty well however be careful with the wet grip.
mrf and michelin are much much better in terms of grip. however its one of most VFM tyres in usage and long life.

Re: KTM Duke 390 - Ownership Reviews and Experiences

After having my 2015 model year Duke 390 serve me falwlessly for ~26,000 km, I'm starting to face my first set of issues. The first one was a broken water pump seal that showed up at around 24,000 Kms but that was dealt with under warranty. Then came a screweup timing chain, which I got fixed at roughly 25,800 kms. All these where easy to diagnose and I had a rough idea as to what is going on.
Now I'm facing something I simply cannot understand. I'd like feed back from the guys here before I take it to the SVC. The real issue is that when the engine is hot, the bike cranks fine but as the engine starts, it idles at around 900 rpm for about a second and then slowly goes up to the usual idle in the next few seconds. Been happening for about 2 weeks now. Yesterday, on the way back from a ride, I also noticed that the idle is erratic when the bike is hot. The bike stalled under a condition it shouldn't have, but maybe that was me adjusting to a new pair of gloves. I also get low battery errors from time to time that go away after a minute of idling.
Is it possible that the alternator is faulty? The spark plugs are new, got them changed when I got the timing chain changed. The stepper motor seems to be fine as the bike starts fine, idles fine and all under normal riding. It's only when the bike has been ridden for a while and gets really hot that it starts doing this. I'd really appreciate some suggestions here.

Re: KTM Duke 390 - Ownership Reviews and Experiences

first please get the electricals checked.. i.e. the battery and stator. A bad stator will eventually damage the battery. The RR (regulator-rectifier) usually doesn't fail this early.
then also connect the diag tool and see if there are any error codes, if there are any error codes fix it accordingly, if there aren't any, do this:
1. ask them to clear the dtc (you will see this option in the diag tool).
2. after clearing the dtc, start the bike and let it idle for 15 minutes - do NOT touch the throttle
3. Shut it off after 15 min.
4. Start it after a couple of minutes and go for a test ride and see if it still behaves erratically.
* if you try to ride the bike immediately after clearing the dtc, it will idle erratically, shut down (will require you to slip the clutch and give more throttle).. this will happen for a few minutes.. so just let it idle for 15 min and let the ecu relearn.

If it still does behave erratically, then it might require a Throttle body cleaning and maybe a replacement of the idle control stepper motor or the throttle position sensor (tps). Don't fall for the "saar, we have to change the throttle body"