Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Well there were no earlier issues with the bike, bike ran quite well for 32000 kms with only fan failure which happened two time in two years, other problem which came a few months back was low oil pressure warning but SVC Guys attributed it to faulty wiring, bike was serviced with regular oil changes every 2nd or third month, bike endured many a track days without any issue. Before the engine failed it had started making some weird sound and suddenly one day the bike came to a halt and that was the last of it. One more thing the bike had started to consume the coolant. On 2nd I took it to SVC today I got a call from SVC who told me that engine is a goner and almost everything will have to be changed. They have asked me to come on Sunday so I can see the damage myself.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Okay so, it's a potpourri of confusing issues, and it's not gonna yield any results decoding what went wrong where, though I suspect coolant ingestion with oil and and the resultant failed lubrication. What I'd suggest from your visit tomorrow is get a hands-on detailed analysis, starting from what caused a complete failure, was it a seizure, was it due to failed lubrication or was it due to coolant mixing with oil compromising lubrication, just any details you can share with us would be helpful.

Secondly, do ask for a thorough report on the parts that are required to be changed and an approximate price, at least if they can give you a pro forma invoice that should give you a right ballpark to start with. Keep us posted.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Hey guys,
I own a 2016 RC 390,
Even though the brakes were good at initial stages, post 20k kms the brake bite has faded, pads checked and all done, but after riding the 2017 KTM Duke 390, the itch for better brakes is growing day by day.
So, please suggest some ways guys,
Is it possible to retrofit 2017 Duke/RC brake setup for this bike?
Suggestions welcomed.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Sorry to hear that Vijay, first to answer your query you cannot buy a new engine, your only option is to get the current on re-build it back factory spec using genuine parts. Except for engine outer casings and bottom end block you do have an option to replace every single part inside which should technically give you a brand new engine.
Going by that you have tracked your bike often, engine life expectancy should be around the same 40-60K kms depending on usage. Yours is at the early stage.

As informed by B7ACKTHORN, instead of listening to SVC guys to replace everything, better to do a part to part analysis and see where was the initial failure.

Moreover, try to get a second opinion from another SVC or well known SBK garages just so that you are ripped off, if the part mentioned by SVC really needs replacing or if its in perfect shape and if the old ones can be salvaged.

One quick way my suggestion, take the part needs replacing and compare it side by side with a brand new one from spares department or if you are lucky if you can find a bike the same SVC whose engine has been disassembled.

Go over this video by our dear friend AJ390:


Yes, it is possible. But will cost you somewhere close to 10K assuming you are talking about to get the full setup from 2017 bike, which involves changing the:
1. Rotor disc 320mm from the current 300mm.
2. Brake caliper mount which is bit longer to accommodate 320mm disc (You can reuse the same caliper assembly though)
3. Sintered brake pads.
4. Labor cost as it involves removing the left fork assembly, change the caliper mount and new fork oil to top it up.

Is it recommended, NO!

Your best alternative will be just replace the current glass/leather based brake pads to EBC HH sintered brake pads https://www.bikenbiker.com/products/...e-200-duke-390 this should give you around 30-40% percent improvement over the current setup.

Yes, these pads will cost 3 times more than the stock KTM pads but it will do the job well and lasts longer by a tiny margin.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience


The 2016 Duke series did come with Organic pads and the post 2017/2018 did come with semi-sintered that's the reason you have that sharp and crisp braking. You need not change the braking setup, all you can do is get the newer 2018 front brake pads which are a direct fit, bleed your front brake and use brand new brake fluid, you should all be set.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Why 10k?
My estimates..
Disc rotor isn't very expensive.. iirc around Rs.1500
you could use spacers with the existing caliper, find some lathe shop that could probably make it for you and use longer bolts. cost: maybe 500rs.
brake pads from the existing 2017+ models: how much are they, 1500?? [i've heard the regular brake pads from older models were improved and now cost a wee bit more, from the earlier 250rs to 350rs now]
no need to remove fork or add fork oil. only the wheel needs to come off to install the rotor. labor: max Rs.500

the other issue could be speedo reading, but from i understand the sensor picks up the reading off the rotor bolts and so should be ok.

I've only had the rotor replaced on my D200 and never had to pay for brake pads (stock rear so far, front was once replaced for free along with the rotor).. my bike has clocked 33k km.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

The front wheel has to be changed as well. The 320mm rotor has different mounting points compared to the 300mm rotor. Probably getting an aftermarket 320mm rotor would be the way to go.

You are right, to accommodate the 320 mm rotor, you just need different spacers. No need to change the fork.

Just changing the brake pad to the EBC 606hh or even to the 2017 Duke ones were a great upgrade.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

The cheapest option is upgrade to the current 2017/2018 semi sintered pads, they have improved feedback and the bit is spot on. The second would be the double HH EBC pads. I can tell the difference is quite prominent switching to EBC. Braking works like a charm on any conditions, precise bite, though at times you can hear mild squeal, which wanes off away after the brakes warm up or repeated braking.

Yes, the mount point of the 300 mm rotor of the old Duke are different to the current Duke series, especially on the rim and so are the caliper mount, which now have a dedicated spacer to accommodate the larger diameter rotor. 320 mm with EBC would be the setup I'd personally recommend. Bigger rotor means bigger surface area for the pads to bite onto and EBC brake pads would make it even better.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

When I checked back in end of 2017, my advisor quoted that it's highly unlikely that you'll be able to buy the bottom calliper mount seperatly. It always comes in a set attached to the fork assembly. No sure things have changed now, assuming the cost of Left fork assembly of 5-6K, I rounded off the cost to 10K.

And he is right, if you check the spare parts manual here, the part No.3 which is one whole unit which includes the fork inner tube and the bottom clamp. I don't see a seperate part number for the bottom clamp alone.


P.S. The manual is from the Duke 390, apart from the handle bar triple clamp, rest all parts holds good the RC390 aswell

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

oh well, wasn't aware of this fact.
you don't need to touch the forks.. one simply needs spacers (and longer bolts) to raise the caliper which wont cost much.
the real bummer here would be the wheel as [MENTION=70817]khaosavz[/MENTION] pointed out.

so simply clean the rotor thoroughly with soapy water and a scotch brite pad, plonk in the pads from the 2017+ model and run the bike for a cpl 100km and again clean the rotor off and that might give one an improvement.

P.S: some riders blame the brakes for their shortcomings and expect magic by plonking in fancy parts. practice, learn, adapt to improve your braking technique and don't expect to flip a switch and stop on a dime.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Couldn't have said it better , instead of spending money on exotic brake parts like Brembo RCS master cylinders, calipers, carbon ceramic rotors and what not it's better to learn adaptive braking by taking help from engine/gear braking. Yes all those fancy things are needed for track use to shave off milliseconds but not necessary for driving around the "jungle out there". Maximum would be to add a better brake pads, check brake fluids lines pads rotors regularly should be more that adequate.

More important than brake pads, rotor etc are the tyres, so it's better to cheap out on other things than tyres (i.e. by not using MRF's from Duke 200, 140 section tyres Ceat/Masseter etc etc on the 390/RC390's). Stick to Metezler/Pirelli and use Michellen if and only if you are not riding hard.

I feel tyres add and contribute more than 50% when it comes to braking distance and stopping feel.
I remember when I switched from Pirelli Diablo's to the Michellen Pilot street's, boy oh boy! I was literally feeling I am on a completely different bike feeling disconnected and was missing my braking point by 10-20 meters each time.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Guys I know pushing the bike in gear is bit lag compared to when it's in neutral but nowadays it's really hard for me to push the bike when the gear is engaged..!

What's causing this.?

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Is your chain slack ok? Have you adjusted it in conjunction with your weight? Do have a check.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

How good is your tire pressure. Low tire pressure can cause drag resulting in pushing the bike comparatively harder. Also check if your clutch play is adjusted too low a clutch play would mean clutch drag and the resultant effect would be motorcycle being harder to push around. Get these both checked, and keep your observations posted.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Why are you pushing the bike in gear ? I mean, what exactly are you trying to do..?
if you want to push/move a bike that is in gear, then you need to pull in the clutch lever in order to be able to move it. If you are doing this and still having trouble, first make sure the clutch lever free play is correct and not too much.
understand that the clutch disengages when you pull in the lever, and with too much play it might not be disengaging fully (And it's not the other way around), so set the free play to around 5mm max. Otherwise the clutch springs might be at the end of their life.
and try to make the free play adjustment first at the clutch case side rather than at the lever end.
how many km has you bike run and more importantly how was it used/abused?