Re: Suzuki GS150R

Thanks for the suggestion. Sure would check it out and post it here.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Thanks @ashwanth.r and @rsk_kelkar for your guidance and support.

I managed to open handlebar throttle assembly, carburetor end of cables and throttle tube. It was fun and learning experience and here is what I found.

Throttle cable 1 is bit jammed within housing, cable 2 is fine and moves freely within housing.

Lot of rust in throttle tube but there is no friction in it, tube slides freely. Sprayed bit of WD40 on it before reassembling.

I think I also found the origin of problem: the housing of the wire 1 is cracked in the middle at the point where it rubs against the T bar ( not sure about the right word for it, it's where chasis no of the bike is imprinted ) below the handlebar.

So I guess I need to replace throttle wire 1 and hopefully it should be fine after that.

While I was at it I also found similar problem in clutch cable; clutch wire housing is cracked in the middle at the point where it rubs against the T bar. It might be the reason that my clutch feels bit hard, so it might also need replacement.

I see that there are lot of wires ( mostly electric ) which rub against the T bar and it's a matter of time before wear and tear of them also gets an ugly turn. Is there any preventive maintenance for it.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

May be the teflon sleeve disintegrated or it was not routed properly. Don't lube any cable in GS.

Like Rsk said, rust under throttle grip is a common problem. In my bro's Activa, the grip is completely jammed due to corrosion. Use a good, thick, gel-like grease (Castrol Premium Formula Gel or Mobil Delvac) once in a while. WD40 is okay but it won't stay 'in place'.

Replace both with new. Keep the old #2 cable as a spare.

In general, the clutch of a GS150R is hard wearing (+ve) and heavy (-ve). In other vehicles, clutch is much light (+ve) but plates have a shorter life (-ve). Yes, replace clutch wire but route it properly.

Common problem in all GS150Rs. Only thing we can do is to cover that part of wiring harness which rubs against the chassis with some insulation tape.

Re: Cialis 20 30 Matbisa

Please spare the GS150R thread my friend/bot. Already we are wondering how to procure spares for this discontinued model; the last thing we would do is to order Cialis from you.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Hi, all due to the corona lockdown found lots of time at hand to do household chores and DIYs, the following tip i had read in Gilberts post a long time ago ,so decided to post it with photos, the idea being to force more air into the airfilter, whether it has any benefits to me{i rarely go above 60kph} needs to be seen, i did find a slight increase in mileage, and throttle play.

Re: Suzuki GS150R


Interesting idea to increase the surface area of air filter mesh, I hope to try it some day.

But how does the mesh hold on to that smaller internal metal pipe now. Any looseness in the grip?

Re: Suzuki GS150R


You need to apply glue,the more the better, I used fevibond applied to both sides, after having dried, glued them together by keeping some books on top. (not heavy books )

Re: Suzuki GS150R

I also did similar mod with Suzuki air filter for my RTR to increase airflow. Can you let me know how did u open the air filter mounting point plate from air filter.. I did it cutting the pipe from inside with c shaped cross knife.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Its simple, holding in one hand, invert the airfilter, and start tapping gently on the black plastic downwards, it will come off, dont have photos now, will send some if you are unable to do so,

Re: Suzuki GS150R

thanks.I already cut the air intake pipe from inside.I tried inverting and tapping airfilter, but the adhesive is pretty strong. Will try to heatup a little bit and try to remove.

here is my airfilter which i cut from inside(Bit crude, But works).On top of this stock Suzuki filter Im using outer airfilter layer from RTR in order to keep it bit clean.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

You mean using RTR's foam over GS filter's metal mesh? That should not be done - the metal mesh is a flame arrestor. That metal mesh will be present in most M/C filters. Only a few models where the filter faces the sky, and/or the carb-to-filter-box rubber tube is curved away from the filter - this mesh will be omitted.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Thanks for info.. will remove it ASAP

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Hi all, I had bought a steel brake line from amazon,got at rs599/ over a month ago,with free time at hand, replaced my stock line with it, but have some lingering doubts,
experts please answer.
Question 1 - I read that steek brake lines give a fast response, which i dont see in my case,i have removed the air via bleeder, but still feels the old way.
2- I have marked in my fotos, one disc pad seems to have worn down more than the other is it normal?
3- Whats the spring pad for,how should it be positioned?theres a arrow mark on it,mine is slightly broken on visiting SUzuki ASC was told that it isnt sold individually, buy the entire disc set,so visited a bike scrap yard& got one from a pulsar for rs 20/-, but its wider so didnt use.
4- lastly i used is dot4 instead of dot3, i had cleaned the entire caliper & master cylinder with warmwater and soap day before, didnt have a tube to do reverse bleed so did it the normal way, after topping the fluid the 3rd time saw it turn black and cloudy, instead of air bubbles black fluid was rising through the tube into the M/c. but braking effect is present, since the pads are also new the bite is a bit less which is not a concern but what about the black ink,
kindly answer,

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Psychological feeling of improved feedback at best, I have used braided and non-braided lines on the same motorcycle and haven't noticed any difference in feedback.

But then again some people do not maintain their motorcycles well enough, for them the difference when changing line and fluid at the same time would be noticeable.

Normal, the pad pressured by the caliper piston would show signs of slightly more wear, though if the difference is staggering then you'd need to make sure that the caliper is able to freely float.

Purge the fluid until there aren't any visual contaminants, but do so after running for a few days to make sure all contaminants are suspended in the current fluid.

Reverse bleeding is the way to go, you can use a fresh fuel pipe as it sits snug and you do not have to use zipties to secure a perfect seal.

Here's me reverse bleeding my system with new Caliper rebuild kit, MC and Brake Line installed;



P.S. The spring is there to make sure that the brake line doesn't directly rub against the chassis and wear down.

Cheers,
A.P.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Thanks for answering, but what about question no-3.