Announcement

**saipranav** · 12-05-2011, 11:00 PM

Originally posted by deception View Post

If you don't rip and go for long rides,even 300ml of oil will be sufficient.This is my personal experience.

I have taken my previous bikes to ridiculously low engine oil levels,but 100ml is just appalling.What happened?Didi you accidentally skip an oil change or was there a leak?

I have not skipped an oil change for sure, and this is only the second time that i'm allowing my bike to run 3k kms without an oil change otherwise its 2k kms...
Recently my bike had a accident and was in the ASC for a very long time...10-11 days... i guess something happened there... i'm not visiting a tvs ASC again... ass holes, they dont even have spares...i had to go to authorised shops for the spares...

**shiwaan** · 12-05-2011, 11:21 PM

Originally posted by Drifty View Post

D.I.Y on Brake pad cleaning/replacing....

Error 404 (Not Found)!!1

https://picasaweb.google.com/112354952479223946339/RTR180BrakePadCleaningReplacing

Tools needed:Size 12 ring spanner,allen key 5mm,a flat head screw driver,sand paper,a clean cloth(if you wish to clean the calliper assembly)
CAUTION: Do not press the brake lever when the pads are removed!
TIP:Rub the sand paper on the brake pads in only one direction for more efficiency.
A full fledged DIY on valve clearance setting,carb cleaning,brake bleeding will be coming soon!

thanks very useful

but buddy add some description in the coming set of DIY

**New guy** · 12-06-2011, 12:03 PM

Originally posted by lijok View Post

Joelled, again.

What about your hiccup problem??

Asking because I too experienced some problem with DC setup. The coil was not charging because the output wires came loose.

**UTKARSH STUNTY SHARMA** · 12-06-2011, 12:55 PM

Originally posted by deception View Post

@ utkarsh stunty sharma

While installing the big bore kit,did the mech lower your compression ratio?

yes he did lower it by adding a extra gasket below the bore, it was confirmed by joel.

Others- finally got my new set of tyres, along with while alloy painting.
The front is 90-90-17 mrf zapper fs and the rear is 100-80-17 mrf zapper s . The price for front was 1540 and rear was 1720 only. I hope the prices are reasonable

**deception** · 12-06-2011, 03:13 PM

Hey guys seeing all this talk about big bore kit for the Apache,it's got me interested.

What's the new displacement? Are the head and piston made by high speed forged alloys or are just plain simple steel.

lets say the final displacement is 200cc.What advantages does it have over pulsar 200cc head cylinder and piston mod on the Apache( hope a lot).

Is this for high RPM gain or low RPM gain.I mean would it be oversquare or undersquare?Since you are putting on a new head

And what about the clutch?I don't suppose investing on a big bore kit and not spending some on clutch spring

And guys please don't bash me if i'm wrong.

**saipranav** · 12-06-2011, 04:09 PM

Guys need some help from you all.
I'm experiencing some problem with the fourth gear in my apache, there is a sound coming fropm the engine when ever i'm in the 4th gear, i went t o my mechanic and he said the ASC guys might have forgotten to put a washer or something when they last repaired my gear box.

Now my question is, do TVS guys sell the 4th gear seperately, i guess the entire gear box is 7-8k so its not exactly easy to buy a new one.

If it is just a washer or something small like that missing, is it possible to source a new one? Do TVS guys sell small parts like that?

I dont want TVS ASC guys to even touch my bike because i have been experiencing problems with them since day1...

BTW, After 20k~ kms on odo i have changed my clutch plates and used motul 3000 15w50 oil and my bike is back to life, gave it some wax polishing and its roaring to go!!!... except that sound in the 4th gear everything is perfect...

**Abhii46** · 12-06-2011, 05:01 PM

Originally posted by deception View Post

What's the new displacement? Are the head and piston made by high speed forged alloys or are just plain simple steel.
lets say the final displacement is 200cc.What advantages does it have over pulsar 200cc head cylinder and piston mod on the Apache( hope a lot).
Is this for high RPM gain or low RPM gain.I mean would it be oversquare or undersquare?Since you are putting on a new head
And what about the clutch?I don't suppose investing on a big bore kit and not spending some on clutch spring

You can clear your doubts from here [email protected].
He is the right guy to clear your all doubts.

**lijok** · 12-06-2011, 05:18 PM

Originally posted by New guy View Post

What about your hiccup problem??

Asking because I too experienced some problem with DC setup. The coil was not charging because the output wires came loose.

I did not have any issue whatsoever till today morning. Now again, the throttle response is very slow. Can you please elaborate on the charging coil and write loose in detail please

**Krish1417** · 12-06-2011, 09:19 PM

Got the bike service (3rd servicing) at 4900kms on odo.Changed the engine oil to Veedol Swift 10w40 SS and now the engine begs to rev more.Thanks to Swagat bhai(chicane1879) for recommending the oil.The handle was stiff,adjusted it and the coneset too.The mechanic did a very good job

P.S-Just a while back i was doing around 30km/hr and the speedo went up fast and showed 70km/hr

,stopped and then switched on the console and it was all fine.What might be the problem?

**Zippo** · 12-06-2011, 11:13 PM

Originally posted by Drifty View Post

D.I.Y on Brake pad cleaning/replacing....

Error 404 (Not Found)!!1

https://picasaweb.google.com/112354952479223946339/RTR180BrakePadCleaningReplacing

Tools needed:Size 12 ring spanner,allen key 5mm,a flat head screw driver,sand paper,a clean cloth(if you wish to clean the calliper assembly)
CAUTION: Do not press the brake lever when the pads are removed!
TIP:Rub the sand paper on the brake pads in only one direction for more efficiency.
A full fledged DIY on valve clearance setting,carb cleaning,brake bleeding will be coming soon!

Awesome effort bro!! Kudos!! People like you who go that extra mile in providing helpful info to this biker community are praiseworthy!

**sid137** · 12-06-2011, 11:55 PM

Originally posted by mpasanthosh View Post

Hi guys,

The RPM of my RTR increases suddenly ,like when im in a traffic signal with the clutch pulled in.
And also the RPM is not constant, i mean when you start the engine the RPM is at 1200 and you REV it till 8000 and leave the accelerator the RPM gets stuck at 3000 or 4000 . I just have to move by bike a little by releasing the clutch and the RPM gets back to 1200. Read few pages back that changing the TPS will solve the problem.what exactly is the TPS and where is it located ? Is it the red switch which is used to turn off the engine? Please help.

Thanks..

hey man, mine was a similar issue some time back!
for me, it was the faulty choke cable which was jammed and made the mixture rich all the time! so the rpm usually used to hang in the 2k- 4k range
dont just change the tps directly!
check for dirty air filter, carb, throttle cable, air fuel mixture, choke cable !

**vineshp** · 12-07-2011, 12:51 AM

Originally posted by mpasanthosh View Post

what exactly is the TPS and where is it located ? Is it the red switch which is used to turn off the engine? Please help.
Thanks..

See this picture for the location of TPS (Throttle Positioning Sensor) [Image Courtesy: Drifty

]

**Drifty** · 12-07-2011, 01:26 PM

Originally posted by mpasanthosh View Post

Hi guys,

The RPM of my RTR increases suddenly ,like when im in a traffic signal with the clutch pulled in.
And also the RPM is not constant, i mean when you start the engine the RPM is at 1200 and you REV it till 8000 and leave the accelerator the RPM gets stuck at 3000 or 4000 . I just have to move by bike a little by releasing the clutch and the RPM gets back to 1200.

Adjust the clutch cable for the correct free play and again set the idle rpm to 1200 rpm when the engine is hot.Sometimes,this can happen due to improper routing of the throttle cable too so check it.

Originally posted by nisnth View Post

One very useful set of pics! Thanks a lot mate.. Downloaded the whole album

Originally posted by shiwaan View Post

thanks very useful

but buddy add some description in the coming set of DIY

Originally posted by Zippo View Post

Awesome effort bro!! Kudos!! People like you who go that extra mile in providing helpful info to this biker community are praiseworthy!

Originally posted by vineshp View Post

That's a great initiative, kudos Drifty!

Doubt: When to replace Brake Pad? How to know if it is worn?

Thanks everyone.

@Vinesh:Check out the brake pad wear indicator...

Completely worn out pad on the left side.
Pic courtesy:RanjithM

**nisnth** · 12-07-2011, 07:26 PM

Okay.. finally shifted to Fully Synthetic Motul 7100 10w40 from the Castrol SS I was using... Man! Should I say anything???? The bike flies now

Revs so freely. It is as if someone was holding it back until now, and then released it from his clutches

The 5-6K rpm vibey is almost non-existent. Did a short 15 km ride. I will be going on a 600km round trip to Coorg this weekend, will post up my review on Monday

**pranav_salieri** · 12-07-2011, 09:15 PM

anybody experiencing vibes above 6K rpm ie 78 km/h above...i get them badly!! using castrol SS 15W40 just got it serviced! 8500 kms done.

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TVS Apache RTR 180

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