Hi Drifty, it would be best if you post it here AND as well as create a new thread fot it..

@Garry: pic is coming your way once I reach home

IMO, all DIYs should be posted here itself, and the link to each of those posts should be added to the FIRST post of this thread (just like the parts catalogue).

THanks Chicane and Vineshp....

Here are a few wallpaper stuff

https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=1cb8f29ee9ccedfa&resid=1CB8F29EE9CC EDFA!136&parid=1CB8F29EE9CCEDFA!101&authkey=!ANqZa WqbasnCCGI



P.S: You might have to resize according to your screen sizes

Chennaites, Any idea on good servicing centers in Chennai? I am fed up of Ramkay TVS substandard services (always have to go back for some rectification or the other). Or please do point me to some reliable mechanic! Would appreciate it, thanks!

D.I.Y.-Brake fluid replacing

Brake Bleeding/brake fluid replacing:
Motorcycles have up to two brake fluid reservoirs, one for the front, usually found on the handlebars and one for the back. Both should be checked regularly. Topping up should only be done from a new, sealed bottle as brake fluid tends to absorb moisture over time.When the brake fluid turns from clear to a darker colour,its time to change the fluid.Beware - brake fluid, if spilt on paintwork eats right through the bare metal.

#When undertaking the process of bleeding brakes on your motorcycle, prepare by covering up the relevant components to prevent them being affected by brake fluid. It is a very corrosive substance that can quickly cause damage to surfaces that it falls onto.Cover the relevant bike parts with old rags and keep a bucket of soapy water to hand in case there is a spill so it is easy to quickly wash away.
#Be patient when bleeding brakes as it can take some time and you should avoid rushing it.The entire process of opening and closing the bleeder nut may need to be repeated several times to complete the task.

Make sure you have the following tools to bleed the brake fluid,
Tools needed:
1)One bottle(250ml) of DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid as per your choice.Here I am using Castrol DOT4 fluid.
2)10mm ring/open end spanner
3)8mm ring/open end spanner(for rear brake)
4)philips screw driver
5)Rags
6)a clear plastic tube for bleeding
7)one container/bottle

For the FRONT brake:
Place the bike on centre stand
Procedure:
The CASTROL DOT4 brake fluid


Step1:Here is the master cylinder,we can see the Dot3 brake fluid through the window



Remove these two screws..


Remove the baffle and the diaphragm..








The old DOT3 fluid can be seen in the master cylinder..

Step 2:
Remove the cap above the bleeder nut and attach a clear tube to it,while the other end attached to the container so that the fluid can flow in it when the bleeder nut is loosened.






Step3:
Make sure the reserviour(master cylinder) is filled so that no air enters the circuit.
Now loosen the bleeder screw a little using a 10mm spanner,you will see brake fluid coming out through the bleeder nut and to the tube.





Step 4:
Now press the front brake lever so the old fluid is forced through the tube into the container.But wait,Keep holding the brake lever completely and tighten the bleeder screw again to prevent air entering in the circuit AND then release the brake lever.This part in bold is very important!






Repeat step 3 & step 4 several times till you see clear DOT4 brake fluid coming out through the tube.Each time,you had to loosen the bleeder nut ,press the brake lever-the fluid will come out due to pressure,again tighten the bleeder nut and then only release the brake lever.

Step 5:Keep checking the reserviour after a few pumps,fill it till the brim,NEVER let it run dry!




After a few pumps,you will see clear DOT4 brake fluid coming through the bleeder nut.Now,loosen the bleeder nut again,press the brake lever and tighten the nut fully,release the lever.




Fill the master cylinder to required proportion,dont fill upto the brim as the rubber diaphragm will occupy rest of the place.


Put back everything in reverse order,remove the tube from the bleeder nut and replace the cap..





TIPS:
1)Never release brake lever with bleeder nut loose,it will suck air into braking system and degrade the braking efficiency.
2)When using a different grade brake fluid as in my case,make sure the entire brake fluid has been removed from the braking system
3)You must keep re-filling the master cylinder with brake fluid,it must never get empty.
4)Do not keep the brake fluid bottle open for too long as it will absorb moisture.

Thanks for the input guys.Will start a thread too in D.I.Y as other members may benefit from it too.

Drifty nice and correct DIY on brake fluid replacement..the same can be used for bleeding the line of air ..
When I did the replacement of brake fluid in my ZMA I kept the top reservoir filled up as I kept bleeding the old oil ,by applying front brake repeatedly,till I got fresh oil out of the bleed nipple...I never closed the bleed nipple even once and only at the top reservoir the oil kept going low due to lever pumping the old oil out..
Gravity really helps in ensuring that air does not get sucked up through the bleed nipple, plus the old oil in the bleed line acts as a sealant against air aspiration...

@Drifty,
Whats that odd looking switch on the right of your tacho???

That's another gr8 DIY from you, Drifty! Keep it going!!

@Drifty & Psr sir,
What is the difference between DOT3 & DOT4? Is one better than another?
When is the time to change the Brake fluid? i.e If the brake fluid level is above the LOWER mark, is there no need to change/top up, correct?

Yes. Me too noticed that. What's that for?

Guys, the unit which houses the indicator, pass, horn and high beam and low beam indicator switches is turning by around 10 degrees in the upward direction. Is it normal?? If at all something is wrong then how much would it cost me to repair the same?? I am taking my bike to 2nd free service tomorrow...

@Drifty
Thank You Bro for all the contributions to the thread. The DIY jobs are explained in the most simplest yet authentic way. Amazing

Dot 4 is superior to dot3..Dot4 has less affinity to moisture, and can withstand greater pressure. DOT4 is clear oil and any contamination or deterioration can be easily noticed by the changing of it's color.
If the oil is above LOW mark nothing to worry..Please note, as the Disc Pads wear out the oil level in reservoir/master cylinder ,will go down,and it is time to replace pads.....ensure when new set of pads are installed,that the oil level reads full....if not then top it up.
Normally the brake fluid does not go low in level,except due to brake pad wear.

@Drifty:

I think that DOT3 is red in colour and DOT4 is pale yellowish. I am not sure if 'clear and dark' which, you mention in your DIY is right or not! Also, the DOT3 on my Apache is more or less of same colour right from the start.
Period!
Correct me if, I am wrong!

BTW, thumbs up to the detailed explanation complemented with photographs. A thread in the DIY section would be much appreciated since it can educate bikers outside the Apache tribe.

@Drifty... You're the man! Kudos to you for the detailed procedure! Saving it all on a word document

Quite a bit of incorrect information here, so i decided to step in.

First, @Drifty, great DIY and pics.

But step 3 should actually come right in the middle of step 4. As in first apply pressure to the brake lever, THEN open the bleeder screw, when the lever hits the grip, close the screw and finally release the lever.

@PSR WOW !

The method you mentioned of not closing the bleeder screw and simply pumping the lever may have worked for you (god alone knows how much air is in your system) but let's stick to a tried and tested method eh? Shortcuts usually lead only to trouble.

And DOT4 actually has MORE affinity to moisture. And 'withstand greater pressure' ??? !!! Good one. Dude, it has a higher boiling point as compared to DOT3. That's about it. In practice this means that it can be used for more aggressive braking without leading to brake 'fade' which occurs when the moisture contained within the brake fluid boils and turns into vapour which is compressible unlike liquids. Btw, all brake fluid will contain a certain amount of moisture, it IS hygroscopic in nature.

DOT4 is supposed to be clear when fresh. If supposedly 'new' DOT4 is slightly yellowish that means it's either too old or has been exposed to too much moisture. Not recommended to be filled. When it gets contaminated by moisture, it will first turn yellowish and then brownish. The latter means that you should have changed your fluid a long time ago. Of course contamination with other impurities will lead to direct brown/black tinging.