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**blazing180** · 01-17-2011, 06:02 PM

Go for 15w50

Originally posted by avi91 View Post

which grade?? 15w50 or 10w40??

I am using 15w50 and believe me all that i can do is make ur gear shifts smoother. I dont comment on vibrations but the drain out is 2500K to 3k kms.

If you are ordering it from a distributor it will cost you at around 430/- only.

Plus its really gud because this rating OIL u wont find in any other brand.

Why i recommend, no doubt, castrol or shell all are good but they are manipulated to such extents that you cant differentiate between duplicate and original.
As far as MOTUL is concerned, i have faith cause i have been trying it quite a sometimes.
Go for it its really gud

**shivank** · 01-17-2011, 06:29 PM

Diamond vision

Guys,what do you have to say about Philips' diamond vision lamps?
I am thinking to swap the stock one with this.The power rating is a little bit higher,like somewhat I guess,60/55w or whatever

Is there any harm if I go for these? Of course,the chances of battery drain are high.My brother was using the same bulb for his A150,I found it quite COOL!

So,I thought it will look COOL-ER in a white Apache reflector..

Are there any serious problems? I guess,RTRs have AC setup,so chances of battery are less compared to DC setup..(Correct me if I am wrong,I know little about electricals)

Also,it comes in a pair and is costing me 900 bucks..Any suggestions?

**lijok** · 01-17-2011, 06:43 PM

@Shivank - using a 55/60W bulb in the stock setup of 35/35W will result is a poorer light output as the lighting circuit is AC an not directly from battery. If it needs to glow with full capacity, it has to be either provided with required power, or has to be driven directly from battery.

**blazing180** · 01-17-2011, 06:47 PM

I am also thinking of...

Originally posted by lijok View Post

@Shivank - using a 55/60W bulb in the stock setup of 35/35W will result is a poorer light output as the lighting circuit is AC an not directly from battery. If it needs to glow with full capacity, it has to be either provided with required power, or has to be driven directly from battery.

Well same question comes to my mind. Also like you said, needs a direct conn from battery, so what if i have taken wirings directly from battery will that harm the wiring, i dont think because if it comes out of direct battery. Or in other case, what if i install an additional battery and install the same bulb near my HORN or leg guard.

I am desparate to get that hig intensity installed cause the light of RTR 180 sucks

**shivank** · 01-17-2011, 07:00 PM

Originally posted by lijok View Post

@Shivank - using a 55/60W bulb in the stock setup of 35/35W will result is a poorer light output as the lighting circuit is AC an not directly from battery. If it needs to glow with full capacity, it has to be either provided with required power, or has to be driven directly from battery.

I have also noted this power and intensity problem in my brother's bike.As the revs fall the intensity of the beam suffers..Is it possible to use the full potential of this bulb? Like,when I am revving past 5k,it would work fine or not.

Originally posted by blazing180 View Post

Well same question comes to my mind. Also like you said, needs a direct conn from battery, so what if i have taken wirings directly from battery will that harm the wiring, i dont think because if it comes out of direct battery. Or in other case, what if i install an additional battery and install the same bulb near my HORN or leg guard.

I am desparate to get that hig intensity installed cause the light of RTR 180 sucks

I have heard mechanics using relays and something like that.No idea,what this thing is but guess,it solves the problem..Please have your say guys,I know I am just blabbering about this.I know nothing,not even a bit of how these things work..

**A4D** · 01-18-2011, 02:10 PM

Originally posted by blazing180 View Post

Refer to one of my posts for that thud sound its because of front fork piston pressure which is disturbed.

Motul Semi-Synthetic is really good go for it

thanks Bro went for elf 4T gold will try motul next time and i was surprised to find Veedol 10w/30 oil barrel at the SVC so i guess they dont just use true4.I found out there is some leak on the cylinder head hope it wont be much of an issue regarding the shocks the SVC guy told me many people have complained about it.

**Drifty** · 01-18-2011, 10:29 PM

Originally posted by shivank View Post

I have also noted this power and intensity problem in my brother's bike.As the revs fall the intensity of the beam suffers..Is it possible to use the full potential of this bulb? Like,when I am revving past 5k,it would work fine or not.

I have heard mechanics using relays and something like that.No idea,what this thing is but guess,it solves the problem..Please have your say guys,I know I am just blabbering about this.I know nothing,not even a bit of how these things work..

Better go for the DC conversion process by swapping your stock RR with APE's RR & coil rewinding.After this set up,a 55/60W bulb or even a 90W bulb will work perfectly with no battery drain issues.Also,this set up will void the warranty

**lijok** · 01-18-2011, 11:06 PM

@shivank

Originally posted by Drifty View Post

Better go for the DC conversion process by swapping your stock RR with APE's RR & coil rewinding.After this set up,a 55/60W bulb or even a 90W bulb will work perfectly with no battery drain issues.

This is the best option... normal halogen or HID will be a breeze...

Originally posted by Drifty View Post

Also,this set up will void the warranty

+1

So, if you are willing to take the risk... go ahead. I cannot comment on the other things mech do to achieve the same...

**Kirankj1724** · 01-19-2011, 12:49 AM

Originally posted by A4D View Post

I dont find the front shocks to be good enough cos it will make a thud sound even on a small pot hole experianced it on my brothers bike too Thanks

noticed it a bit late.. ignore this if u ppl already know dis.. i got a free replacement of suspension piston [i suppose] wen i had complained about de prob in shocks.. dis was only to A180's dat were released till jan 2010.. this was told to me by de TVS SC guy.. and after dat i feel de shocks r far better..

**psr** · 01-19-2011, 09:39 AM

Originally posted by lijok View Post

@shivank
+1

So, if you are willing to take the risk... go ahead. I cannot comment on the other things mech do to achieve the same...

Lijok did you get your bike back after the engine job..under warranty ?Hope you are riding it and enjoying the experience.

**lijok** · 01-19-2011, 01:42 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

Lijok did you get your bike back after the engine job..under warranty ?Hope you are riding it and enjoying the experience.

Not yet bro... The date they have given is 21st, this friday. When I called up today, the stupid lady was again telling me the old story. When I asked when I can get the bike, she asked to call after two days!!

**chicane1879** · 01-19-2011, 06:05 PM

Btw, Guys forgot to mention that the front tyres were replaced with 90/90 Zapper FS a week back. Some improvement while taking high speed corners is what i have experienced till now.

**blazing180** · 01-19-2011, 07:35 PM

Check my carb setting vid

Originally posted by Garry_Menace View Post

Will someone respond to this?

Well nobody replied....
Here you go bro need that grunt....

Check out my vid of tuning carb for RTR180
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tml#post558093

**blazing180** · 01-20-2011, 05:51 PM

Never keep it like this

Originally posted by pankajsingh5k View Post

Had my bike's 3rd service done on Sunday...it was very cold but still i rode 12 kms to reach the SVC around 9:30. This time i went to Speed Motors SVC and waited while the servicing was being done. Also the 3rd service was overdue by 1 month(6 months completed on 9 Dec but i had done only 3800 odd kms on my bike). i had to talk to the SVC Manager a day earlier for this.

The motor was broken so no washing. but i had a good experience at this SVC. The supervisor listened to all the problems. i had mentioned that the front suspension was very stiff. No oil change was done as i had not even done 2000 kms since last service ( i had changed to Castrol Power 1 just one week after oil change so very good for me

). i said no to the chain spray since i already bought it earlier. The service took around 1.5 hours and they did the battery charging. the front suspension was checked. he said that the oil level was low and they had refilled it.

since i had an accident earlier, handle alignment was done(some loose screw was tightened), the left air scoop was tightened after i reminded them that it was loose. The supervisor took a rest ride himself and then handed me the bike(big surprise for me

).

Overall bill was Rs 23

The right indicator was not replaced since it was out of stock.(will check again in one week).

Overall, this SVC was way better compared to the last SVC.

They also tightened the chain. but guys now it is making "kut kut" noises on turning the wheel. the chain slack is not right. Is it OK to leave it like this( i mean as the chain gets loose will it be alright?) or should i get the chain readjusted.?

Your chain seems to be too tight i guess. Just make ur bike stand on mains, and check the slackness all talk about 10-15 MM but my experience is that i keep the chain loose by 20MM slackness. The reason behind this is that if you see the frame that connects ur gear box to ur chain, it is slightly declined i mean bent towards beckside down somewhat, so when any rider sits on that, at the time of adjustment if you keep it 10-15MM slacked it looks ok, but in real picture it gets tightened morever when u ride it gets heated up. Make it loose by 20MM

Too much tight will cause a ghuuuuuuurrrrrrrr sound and make ur pickup low, more power will be consumed in that.
I have suffered a loss of sprocket since i kept it tight, loose it

**pankajsingh5k** · 01-20-2011, 07:25 PM

Originally posted by blazing180 View Post

Your chain seems to be too tight i guess. Just make ur bike stand on mains, and check the slackness all talk about 10-15 MM but my experience is that i keep the chain loose by 20MM slackness. The reason behind this is that if you see the frame that connects ur gear box to ur chain, it is slightly declined i mean bent towards beckside down somewhat, so when any rider sits on that, at the time of adjustment if you keep it 10-15MM slacked it looks ok, but in real picture it gets tightened morever when u ride it gets heated up. Make it loose by 20MM

Too much tight will cause a ghuuuuuuurrrrrrrr sound and make ur pickup low, more power will be consumed in that.
I have suffered a loss of sprocket since i kept it tight, loose it

yes, i am hearing kut kut sounds when i turn the wheel...the pickup of my bike has reduced and the bike feels constrained when driving. These damn SVC guys cannot do a single task properly.

. Where do i measure this slack??. i guess at the bottam of the chain it should be 20 mm( u mean 20 mm movement up and down ?????) . i guess i will have to get it done by some outside mechanic.

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