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**RedApple** · 06-02-2009, 03:34 PM

Originally posted by julianpaul View Post

i understand your point. but SP was right in the basic concept of abs, atleast for cars. ideally, the ecu must detect a lock situation before it happens. a basic way in which abs works is it analyses and compares wheel speed for all four wheels. when one wheel is moving at a diff speed from the others it identifies it as a traction issue. now depending of the level of implementation, this could be handled by abs if that's all that's there or tcs, etc if they're present. so co-ordination between wheels IS a basic system in abs.

edit: see Anti-lock braking system - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

again its very diff for bikes. the very rules of physics that dictate two wheeler movement like gyroscopic precession mean that abs cannot just be ported from cars to bikes and expected to work the same way. from what i've learned, electronics like ignition control and hardware like slipper clutches as used on race bikes work better than abs to make the bikes easier to ride.

where i think abs will really work is heavy tourers and cruisers like the goldwing where the weight of the bike makes it difficult to accurately judge the lock point and when you do reach it, you may not be able to save the bike from skidding. and i'm talking about true abs, not the valve thingie.

afaik, the seat height of the refresh/fi is 50mm higher than the old rtr. and i think the overall height is unchanged. nobody who i contacted is able to confirm either though. got this info from the brochures (online, not printed). can somebody who has tech info from tvs confirm?

hmmn...then why is that she told me she sat noticeably higher on the old RTR compared to my refresh????

**rockinggokul** · 06-02-2009, 04:43 PM

sorry to be posting in this thread don't know where to

the p180 thread is always in sleeeeeeep mode.

can anyone tell me which bike is better in outright performance acceleration top speeed,0-60 ,first off at traffic gp etc.
amongst p180 and apache rtr ref/fi?

the pulsar has more cc ,power but then it weighs proportionately, apache has lesser power but also weighes less

some of my friends say apache some pulsar so wanna know from more credible people.

i know that this is the apache owners thread but i can expect some unbiased replies

**Puneet1** · 06-02-2009, 05:07 PM

^^^ The new P 180 is even heaviear than before and the fatter tyres also dont help its cause . a rtr Fi will easily beat it in all aspects , with Carb RTR its 55-45 in favour of RTR and depends on bikes conditions and other factors like rider weight etc

**julianpaul** · 06-02-2009, 06:28 PM

Originally posted by RedApple View Post

hmmn...then why is that she told me she sat noticeably higher on the old RTR compared to my refresh????

feel is subjective. for eg. i felt the fi rider's seat to be much higher than the old rtr i had tested a year ago. then when i checked the specs i found the 50mm increase in seat height.

when she felt it to be higher it could be due to various other reasons. diff seat foam density/material/shape, diff suspension settings. i'm just guessing here. there could be many factors. that's why getting an official answer will help. did you guys test the refresh and the rtr immediately. or is it an old memory?

**Joel** · 06-02-2009, 07:07 PM

There is no difference in the saddle height, ride height or seat height of the RTR/refresh or the RTR FI.

**Lost Soul** · 06-02-2009, 07:18 PM

^^maybe they sat when bike was on centre stand

**julianpaul** · 06-02-2009, 07:36 PM

Originally posted by Joel View Post

There is no difference in the saddle height, ride height or seat height of the RTR/refresh or the RTR FI.

Yay ! Joel's here !

if you haven't seen the post above, could you tell us what's the use of the resistor soldered across the brake wires. a lot of the mechs are saying it's ok to use it without the resistor. obviously, tvs put it in there for a reason and the mechs are not gonna pay if the tail-light blows. just wanna know what it's function is and how great the risk is of the light blowing if we run it without the resistor.

**hariraman** · 06-02-2009, 10:41 PM

on the second day of ownership i have started getting pi$$ed off with tvs

Today rode the bike for abt 30 kms under 40-50 kmph and then went to change the rear tyre to 110/90 - 18 MRF zapper -q .
On return when i tried to start the vehicle, the system was continuosly restarting. ie, the console wud lit up, tacho will jump to max n come back, and then again console lit up and again meter jumping and so on. Then when i tried to self start, the battery sign came on console.
Didn think much and self kicked. Thankfully the bike replied n started. Started way back home. Time was already late and so couldn show to service center.
The battery is totally down as even horn is not working.
& i have not used the electricals of the bike heavily other than the fuel pump.

Also i notice that the idle rpm is little up to 1800rpm.
What might be the issue?

**insanebiker** · 06-02-2009, 10:47 PM

Originally posted by hariraman View Post

on the second day of ownership i have started getting pi$$ed off with tvs

Today rode the bike for abt 30 kms under 40-50 kmph and then went to change the rear tyre to 110/90 - 18 MRF zapper -q .
On return when i tried to start the vehicle, the system was continuosly restarting. ie, the console wud lit up, tacho will jump to max n come back, and then again console lit up and again meter jumping and so on. Then when i tried to self start, the battery sign came on console.
Didn think much and self kicked. Thankfully the bike replied n started. Started way back home. Time was already late and so couldn show to service center.
The battery is totally down as even horn is not working.
& i have not used the electricals of the bike heavily other than the fuel pump.

Also i notice that the idle rpm is little up to 1800rpm.
What might be the issue?

One of my close friends, who had also bought his RTR carb from Coimbatore( I forgot the dealer) faced this same issue.

He took delivery and next day, his battery was fully dead.

Reason : The alternator charging circuit was open at some point and hence the battery was not charging.

**julianpaul** · 06-02-2009, 11:17 PM

Originally posted by hariraman View Post

The battery is totally down as even horn is not working.
Also i notice that the idle rpm is little up to 1800rpm.

In this case i would say that a dead battery could happen to any bike, so don't worry. Too much. Get it charged asap. Also look into the charging as insanebiker said. they will have to check with a multimeter. the idle could be off because it's running without a battery. Atleast the fi starts and runs without a battery in spite of having mucho electronics. and most mechs have a tendency to set the idle near 1200. company recommends 1400 so set it at that.

**JamesApacheRTR** · 06-03-2009, 12:26 AM

Originally posted by nox2505 View Post

Its chain hitting chain cover for sure. adjust the slackness.

Sounds like you are right - thanks very much.

**RedApple** · 06-03-2009, 02:00 AM

Originally posted by Joel View Post

There is no difference in the saddle height, ride height or seat height of the RTR/refresh or the RTR FI.

hehe..thanks for that joel...maybe it was all subjective

**jasmeetsinghchawla** · 06-03-2009, 08:55 AM

Originally posted by hariraman View Post

on the second day of ownership i have started getting pi$$ed off with tvs

Today rode the bike for abt 30 kms under 40-50 kmph and then went to change the rear tyre to 110/90 - 18 MRF zapper -q .
On return when i tried to start the vehicle, the system was continuosly restarting. ie, the console wud lit up, tacho will jump to max n come back, and then again console lit up and again meter jumping and so on. Then when i tried to self start, the battery sign came on console.
Didn think much and self kicked. Thankfully the bike replied n started. Started way back home. Time was already late and so couldn show to service center.
The battery is totally down as even horn is not working.
& i have not used the electricals of the bike heavily other than the fuel pump.

Also i notice that the idle rpm is little up to 1800rpm.
What might be the issue?

Thats the faulty ignition cum lock, it gets short i dont know how but it happened to my bike a week ago and the showroom people repaired it, cause electrical are not under warranty.

**psycho28** · 06-03-2009, 12:47 PM

After replacing the battery under warranty its again down, this time its leaking acid, so i thought of buying another battery other than the one company provides, so in need some details of the battery.

Is this battery chapter discussed before ? sorry then, i havent read any past threads

Suggest some good battery please

**Aparajith** · 06-03-2009, 01:01 PM

^^AMARON is a good sealed battery. Does not leak acid like the EXIDES IMHO!!! Am using it on my Car and Platina and pretty satisfied with it IMHO! Or u can also go in for the TATA GREEN range!

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