Thanks man.... Actually the bike has done 14K kms. Both air and fuel filter have not yet been replaced. The air filter was clogged with all Leh dust . I just cleaned it. Now the bike sputters and pickup is totally down. It acts as if its totally clogged. During last Svc, I asked my bro to change both. But he has not done it....

So asked him to get the fuel and air filter today. Thot I will change them this weekend. Planning to change the pipe as well, as I will remove the tank anyways. U cud have taken snaps while fixing the new pipe man.... Wud have been helpful. I will remove the tank and check.

Sorry for this OT, but need to know:

Does the RTR 180 have a cam-chain tensioner? Or any means to adjust a loose chain?

hello Sir try Pam Beach Tire << on pam beach road this showroom is right after Croma .

actually my cells cam has gone kaput, i too felt the same that the pics would have helped very much...

FIERO had it, so i think RTR family have it too.

Cam chain tensioner is there on all 4 stroke bikes. And it has to be there.

if we're talking about automatic chain tensioner, then no, all 4 stroke bikes dont have it.

Originally Posted by svjhonda
Sorry for this OT, but need to know:

Does the RTR 180 have a cam-chain tensioner? Or any means to adjust a loose chain?

He have not mensioned automatic.

oops.......

i didnt noticed that, but whats the diff between a chain tensioner and an automatic chain tensioner??

Replaced the air filter. While trying to replace the fuel filter, I found that he tubes are not very constricted. There is 1 loose long tube from the filter thats hanging out. What is that for? Can someone clarify? Am going to check it tomorrow in the morning anyways....

Automatic chain tensioner is type of chain tensioner, in which the tension is maintained by spring loaded chain guides. The spring rate is precalculated and set accordingly.

there was no loose pipe from the filter in my FI sir, only two pipes are there, one is inlet and the other is the outlet, check it as soon as possible.

and one more thing today in the morning i saw a petrol deposit near the side stand, and when i saw it closely, it was from the outlet pipe from the filter, now tomorrow i'll be taking the bike again to my friend mech and will replace the pipe with a long one so that it dont bend,as the old one is a bent one, so check this out on your bike too.

and in the chain tensioner this is done manually right?????

after closely inspecting this 20mins before, i found that the bolts which holds the fuel pump in place were loose and were leaking fuel....

i saw fuel droplet at the two front screws and came to know that, so i took the spanner and checked all bolts, two were loose and rest were tight.

MAN!!!!!!
these vibes of the engine has ill effects on screws ha...

i put the bike on the side stand and will check the leakage after half and hour, will post my readings.

Yesssss Bossssssss.

all right sir......

Fuel filter, pipe, and routing changed performance report (60kms)

I wasn't getting time to check the fuels supply from the new pipe and routing at high RPM's which was done 3 weeks back, so yeaterday when i came across a work which gave me a chabce to go 70kms away that too from INDORE BYPASS (good cemented road,almost nil traffic) i decided to ditch my car and go on my FI instead.

So after warming the bike at idle for 5 mins i left off, as it was sunday i was countring heavy traffic on the connecting road, and to warm up the engine and oil i rode below 5000 gradually revving it and 4 and 5 were not cogged till the first 2 kms.

After the traffic was cleared i cogged 4 and i was maintaining 45kmph in 3 and 4 for long time (5 was never cogged), and i started to warm up the tyres too, (my ritual before the long hammering ride).

I did it for the next 5 km's, sticking to 5000RPM not cogging 5.

The moment i approached the road, i braked a little, as i've already done 7kms with my warming rituals the engine felt good and the shifts became smooth indicating the oil has warmed up.

I pulled the bike to 8500 in first, then i stared pulling it like there's no red line at the tacho, after cogging fourth i glanced at the tacho and to my surprise it was shaking like hell..i slowed down shifted to 2 then i pulled it agian and this time the needle was shaking so severly past 8000 that it was almost hovering arount till the 9500mark at the tacho.

I said "shut up" to the tacho and started pullling the bike again,what i did that after seeing 8000 at the tacho i was pulling the bike for 3 more secs, and after hearing the particalar straining noice the engine gives after 10500RPM i was upshifting (all clutchless), downshifting was with proper "matching the revs" or "blipping the throttle" which resulted in butter smooth gear slots.

The engine felt more responsive past 7000RPM atleast 10% good than before(new filter, new pipe routing which corrected the fuel flow by almost 30-40%)

The bike was getting to 115kmph pretty fast after which it was taking good time to touch 120-125kmph..(was little windy, i was fully croutched)

My max speed acheived in the ride was 125 and i never dropped below 92kmph, all together i covered the distance of 30kms in 15 mins.(i timed it)

The changes which i done gives more of a phycological feeling that as the filter is changed, and the new routing is done, the fuel is flowing more freely and the engine will be producing more power,but in this case as i know RTR FI from inside out my readings were:

1.No low rpm improvement( read below 5500 RPM)
2.At high RPM's post 7000 the bike FEELS more responsive and slight twist of the throttle was making it GO!!!!!!!!.
3.REv power limit has increased by 200RPM or so going by the straining noice the engine produces, and the pull it showed, i got the readings, thanks to my ears.
4.Tacho meter has gone mad, after 8000RPM it's impossible to read the figures the needle is trying hard to show.

(The ride was taken at flat road with less traffic,i was geared fully,please be fully geared,(read jacket,gloves, good lid,and jeans) if you'll be attempting the same high speed tests)