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**martin_sky77** · 03-21-2012, 08:49 AM

Originally posted by susheelkumar View Post

Yesterday i went to JC Road(bangalore) for buying Iridium NGK spark plugs(code:NGKITA15). The shopkeeper gave me NGK spark plugs with some other code and its mentioned 650 rs.
In website (Indian Bikes) its mentioned 550rs. So, I didnt buy as I feel its some other bikes plug.

Also I enquired about SpitFire Cable and he said its available in 350rs, 450 rs, 650rs.
I wonder which is the original one. I dont want any normal spark plug cable.
Has anyone tried the same?
Btw I thought of going for these changes because nowadays i'm getting very less millege(say less than or equal to 40kmpl) even though with maintaining with 5k rpm.

about the plug....first thing u should notice is the RTR's stock plug has is projected type..means the centre electrode has a higher position than the non-projected type...

i'll give u an example, comparing between 2 NGK's plug (CR8E & CPR8EA)
u can find CR8E on CBR150 (maybe R15 use the same plug since in Indonesia, the downgrade of R15 named V-Ixion use this plug), also in Indonesia the CPR8EA came with the unicorn dazzler..
the projected type will go deeper in combustion chamber which means often give a bettter combustion, coz it will go more to the centre of the chamber...means u'll get a slight advance of combustion and some extra power comparing to the non-projected type..
now you'll wonder what the non-projected type for right? it often used in a small combustion chamber which a projected type won't fit..
i'll tell you my story, i've tried the pricy DENSO IU24 on my RTR..it's an iridium with 0.4mm centre electrode also have a low resistance, about 4k ohms..this plug is a non-projected type...
the bike went smooth and give a lower vibration...but the throttle responds a slight slower and give less torque.. so i switch to the NGK CPR8EA (untill now) since it's the best plug i've tried..so i don't suggest u to buy that pricy iridium plug, except the stock bike had a non-projected type..

about the cable and mileage...i don't think your cable is the victim...u can still use the stock cable or if you really want to change the cable, don't make it as an extension of your stock cable..coz it will give you a higher resistance, means smaller voltage at the plug, also means smaller sparks..

u can guess the original one, just look at the cable insulator material..if you can't judge by it's appearance, check it with the ohm meter..buy the cable which has the lowest resistance..

if you have a lower mileage, u should clean your air filter & carb/throttle body, check tyres pressure, tappets clearance, and fuel's quality..
also if u running with a stock tyre size, check your rpm and speedometer..
if u couldn't runs about 52 km/h (speedo indicated) at 5th gear with 4k rpms, then your clutch maybe the culprit..check the clutch set condition, clutch cable freeplay, and engine oil (maybe you running a non JASO MA spec)

hope helps

**alurysharad2008** · 03-21-2012, 10:53 AM

Originally posted by martin_sky77 View Post

1. bottom up is when your suspension move to it's fullest absorbing position...means, it can't move any further to absorb the shock it receive (sorry bad english)

2. i let it be, but after i refill it with those new front fork oil with 150ml, it rarely happen.. i mean rarely make a *thud* sounds

also, i refill it with some cheaps fork oil...planning to change it with a better oil, maybe it will a different story....maybe

i forgot to mention that they changed the front pistons under warranty saying an upgraded part or something. after that only the problem started i think.

**susheelkumar** · 03-21-2012, 11:18 AM

Originally posted by martin_sky77 View Post

about the plug....first thing u should notice is the RTR's stock plug has is projected type..means the centre electrode has a higher position than the non-projected type...

i'll give u an example, comparing between 2 NGK's plug (CR8E & CPR8EA)
u can find CR8E on CBR150 (maybe R15 use the same plug since in Indonesia, the downgrade of R15 named V-Ixion use this plug), also in Indonesia the CPR8EA came with the unicorn dazzler..
the projected type will go deeper in combustion chamber which means often give a bettter combustion, coz it will go more to the centre of the chamber...means u'll get a slight advance of combustion and some extra power comparing to the non-projected type..
now you'll wonder what the non-projected type for right? it often used in a small combustion chamber which a projected type won't fit..
i'll tell you my story, i've tried the pricy DENSO IU24 on my RTR..it's an iridium with 0.4mm centre electrode also have a low resistance, about 4k ohms..this plug is a non-projected type...
the bike went smooth and give a lower vibration...but the throttle responds a slight slower and give less torque.. so i switch to the NGK CPR8EA (untill now) since it's the best plug i've tried..so i don't suggest u to buy that pricy iridium plug, except the stock bike had a non-projected type..

about the cable and mileage...i don't think your cable is the victim...u can still use the stock cable or if you really want to change the cable, don't make it as an extension of your stock cable..coz it will give you a higher resistance, means smaller voltage at the plug, also means smaller sparks..

u can guess the original one, just look at the cable insulator material..if you can't judge by it's appearance, check it with the ohm meter..buy the cable which has the lowest resistance..

if you have a lower mileage, u should clean your air filter & carb/throttle body, check tyres pressure, tappets clearance, and fuel's quality..
also if u running with a stock tyre size, check your rpm and speedometer..
if u couldn't runs about 52 km/h (speedo indicated) at 5th gear with 4k rpms, then your clutch maybe the culprit..check the clutch set condition, clutch cable freeplay, and engine oil (maybe you running a non JASO MA spec)

hope helps

Well it really helps dude...Thanks for the info..I have cleaned the air filter..Now I'm gonna clean the carb and check out...

**martin_sky77** · 03-22-2012, 08:42 AM

Originally posted by alurysharad2008 View Post

i forgot to mention that they changed the front pistons under warranty saying an upgraded part or something. after that only the problem started i think.

since when this *thud* happened?

**alurysharad2008** · 03-22-2012, 09:31 AM

Originally posted by martin_sky77 View Post

since when this *thud* happened?

yup. today i am changing the front bearings and streching the springs.wish me luck if it gets solved...

MG · 03-23-2012, 10:37 AM

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**Sumondatta** · 03-23-2012, 11:18 AM

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**alurysharad2008** · 03-24-2012, 10:07 AM

i forgot what position for rear suspension preload is set by default ?can anyone remind me about it ?

**supreeth.potdar** · 03-25-2012, 02:43 PM

lil` help!

Hey guys i bought hyper edge a week back ^ i`ve finished 128kms and i can feel the difficulty while shifting gears i mean they are tight,is it because its a new bike

**vaibhav_** · 03-25-2012, 03:17 PM

Originally posted by iChaitanya View Post

You should be using mineral oil and not synthetic oil for the first 5k km. No idea about K&N stuff. Not gonna install it anytime soon!

--

Hello guys,

My 4 month old RTR160 (1450 km, 2 free services done, using Shell AX5 engine oil) is troubling me:

1) Engine misfiring: I had this issue right from day 1 but it was fixed during 1st servicing. The issue resurfaced after 2nd servicing and it still persists. I told the SVC guys to fix it yet again. They kept my bike for a day and returned it to me saying they've cleaned the spark plug.

Bike makes "phat-phat-phat" sound at high RPM (especially when rolling down a slope). SVC guys have given up and have advised me to use better quality petrol and additives. I'm using normal HP petrol. Should I switch to "Speed" petrol. Will doing so fix this issue of engine misfiring?

2) Front disc brake makes loud screeching noise when I apply the brake. This issue persists since 2nd servicing. It was non-existent until then. What should be done to fix this? SVC guys didn't do anything.

3) Idling RPM varies according to surrounding temperature and engine temperature. After riding my bike continuously for 15 mins, idling RPM shoots up to almost 2.5k RPM. How to fix this? SVC guys have given up. They're unable to fix it. Do all RTRs have this issue?

4) There are some noticeable scratches on my bike including a couple of them on the headlight. How to remove such scratches?

RTR owners and others please help me out...

1. that Sound is RTR's Trademark.

Enjoy it.!
2. Disc problem is a problem, also check if disc is rubbing against the brake pads or something by keeping the bike on main stand and rotating the tires in a silent place. I hate this sound in my RTR160, even if i get it done from SVC it resurfaces.

I guess dust enters the brake pad area which rubs against the disc.
3. I had the idling issue before 1st service, it is clutch slipping, you should have been over it after 1st service. Check with some other service centre.

**vaibhav_** · 03-25-2012, 03:22 PM

Originally posted by supreeth.potdar View Post

Hey guys i bought hyper edge a week back ^ i`ve finished 128kms and i can feel the difficulty while shifting gears i mean they are tight,is it because its a new bike

Yes it is. I had the same problem till my first service, after that it would be great. Better get you bike service done if its 1 month, else get your engine oil changed right now, then again at first service. You might also face some heating issues, clutch slipping(rpm would rise to 2.5-3k after 10 mintues or so and they wont come down!). Its all normal, ride below 4k rpm till 1st service. (:

**PsychoRider** · 03-25-2012, 08:12 PM

Originally posted by alurysharad2008 View Post

i forgot what position for rear suspension preload is set by default ?can anyone remind me about it ?

I think it is the last but one position on the softer side.

Hey guys recently I have been noticing oil on the left side of the engine block (on the fins) of my rtr. Is this normal or is there any problem in the seals?

**kantu** · 03-25-2012, 08:18 PM

Originally posted by PsychoRider View Post

I think it is the last but one position on the softer side.

Hey guys recently I have been noticing oil on the left side of the engine block (on the fins) of my rtr. Is this normal or is there any problem in the seals?

NO its middle actually.
Oil on fins is looking like a problem with most of the rtr s

Its better if you get your seals checked.

**vaibhav_** · 03-25-2012, 08:30 PM

Originally posted by PsychoRider View Post

I think it is the last but one position on the softer side.

Hey guys recently I have been noticing oil on the left side of the engine block (on the fins) of my rtr. Is this normal or is there any problem in the seals?

Yes its the 2nd last one on softer side. NOT the middle one.

**PsychoRider** · 03-25-2012, 09:57 PM

Originally posted by kantu View Post

NO its middle actually.
Oil on fins is looking like a problem with most of the rtr s

Its better if you get your seals checked.

Should i get it checked at the service centre or can any mech look into it?

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