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  • Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post
    @Julian : 52 is good !
    I know man, still kinda can't believe it, but 3 tests later, have to !

    Comment


    • Do/did you guys carry anything with you on highway rides for repair in case of punctures when on stock tyres? AFAIK, the tube should be taken out like that of a bicycle to repair puncture and no instant repair kit is available. I mean, isn't it too risky to take it to highway rides/trips?
      I still damn TVS for not providing tubeless in their flagship series(barring 180) when ones like twister have them.
      Last edited by pcgamer; 05-14-2012, 11:35 PM.

      Comment


      • Originally posted by pcgamer View Post
        Do/did you guys carry anything with you on highway rides for repair in case of punctures when on stock tyres? AFAIK, the tube should be taken out like that of a bicycle to repair puncture and no instant repair kit is available. I mean, isn't it too risky to take it to highway rides/trips?
        I still damn TVS for not providing tubeless in their flagship series(barring 180) when ones like twister have them.
        Why curse TVS? Get tubeless tyres and plonk it in and have a peaceful ride!

        You will find a puncture shop () every 10-30kms on the highway. I would'nt be too worried! Just carry a tube with you just in case!


        @renny & Julian

        i thought i rape my bike all the time! You guys seem to do it on a daily basis. My bike returns anywhere between 650-730km on a tankful within city. On the highway, the longest i have gone on a single tankfull is 445kms before hitting reserve and speed between 90-115kmph and occasional 130+ kmph.

        Last time i checked it returned 56kmpl for a litre. Been riding the R15 for the past one month. My friend is using my RTR and even he reports 50+ mileage!
        07 HH Zma
        11 Honda Aviator DLX
        14 Ford Figo 1.4 TDCI (Now Caged:( )
        16 Scooty Zest
        11 CBR 250R

        Comment


        • Originally posted by onlinesatish View Post
          Why curse TVS? Get tubeless tyres and plonk it in and have a peaceful ride!

          You will find a puncture shop () every 10-30kms on the highway. I would'nt be too worried! Just carry a tube with you just in case!
          Yeah, we'll end up changing it eventually but is it too much to ask for a tubeless when we're paying 75k+, especially when RTR180's getting it. Touring through ghat sections or village roads is way too risky. I wouldn't have bothered about changing the tyres until 15-20k if it was a tubeless but the ideas of long trips are making me consider changing them around 6-7k km. That's one area where I repent not buying an RTR180. Well, let me stop whining
          BTW, I changed to shell AX5 20W40 mineral on Saturday. Even though the change is not as much as expected, foot peg vibes have reduced a bit and bike feels a bit smoother overall. Handlebar and the front hood still vibrate though.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by pcgamer View Post
            Yeah, we'll end up changing it eventually but is it too much to ask for a tubeless when we're paying 75k+, especially when RTR180's getting it. Touring through ghat sections or village roads is way too risky. I wouldn't have bothered about changing the tyres until 15-20k if it was a tubeless but the ideas of long trips are making me consider changing them around 6-7k km. That's one area where I repent not buying an RTR180. Well, let me stop whining
            BTW, I changed to shell AX5 20W40 mineral on Saturday. Even though the change is not as much as expected, foot peg vibes have reduced a bit and bike feels a bit smoother overall. Handlebar and the front hood still vibrate though.
            Run the tyre a little longer and then change to a better tyre! You will fall in love with the bike again as i did!

            If not tubeless, try to get a Tuffup tube!

            Try 300V, you will be surprised. Am gonna try Mobil this time. But still in two minds!
            07 HH Zma
            11 Honda Aviator DLX
            14 Ford Figo 1.4 TDCI (Now Caged:( )
            16 Scooty Zest
            11 CBR 250R

            Comment


            • Originally posted by onlinesatish View Post
              @renny & Julian

              i thought i rape my bike all the time! You guys seem to do it on a daily basis. My bike returns anywhere between 650-730km on a tankful within city. On the highway, the longest i have gone on a single tankfull is 445kms before hitting reserve and speed between 90-115kmph and occasional 130+ kmph.

              Last time i checked it returned 56kmpl for a litre. Been riding the R15 for the past one month. My friend is using my RTR and even he reports 50+ mileage!
              I dunno if you guys recall i had removed my rear disc caliper etc. for overhauling and rode the bike for a while like that. it was awesome, handling became extremely flickable and top speed increased by almost 5kmph (well not the maximum speed, but atleast it would hit the peaks much quicker). I wonder how the reduced drag without the disc would affect mileage...

              Originally posted by pcgamer View Post
              BTW, I changed to shell AX5 20W40 mineral on Saturday. Even though the change is not as much as expected, foot peg vibes have reduced a bit and bike feels a bit smoother overall. Handlebar and the front hood still vibrate though.
              AX5 is one of the shittiest oils i've used. even super swift is better. can't get the damn ax7 anywhere...

              btw, i think ax5 is the only time i've used a mineral after the first tvs stock oil. and the only reason i don't bother with oils costing more than 350 bucks is coz my levels drop within 1-2k kms. no point spending on oil if you're gonna have to top it up so frequently. but the funny thing is with this ax5, my oil levels haven't dropped. totally confused. heard about synths evaporating and stuff, but this much/
              Last edited by julianpaul; 05-15-2012, 02:52 AM.

              Comment


              • Me never had problem with Fully Syn oil's. Level's never dropped but once cause of lili bit of score's inside the cylinder wall!

                That reminds me, RTR service is due and am using TVS SS oil!

                Rear disc caliper makes so much of a difference?
                07 HH Zma
                11 Honda Aviator DLX
                14 Ford Figo 1.4 TDCI (Now Caged:( )
                16 Scooty Zest
                11 CBR 250R

                Comment


                • Originally posted by onlinesatish View Post
                  Rear disc caliper makes so much of a difference?
                  Yeah man, and especially my rear brakes are binding a little bit. If you rotate the wheel and check it will feel ok, but you can definitely feel the drag. The difference was so pronounced i wanted to swap my rear disc setup with someone for a drum rear. entire swingarm and brake system will have to be changed. But then later didn't have the time so never bothered.

                  When i did the speed test without the rear caliper, there is this stretch of road on palm beach near nerul, where the bike normally hits 125 or so and then crawls to 128. Without the caliper it virtually shot to 127, then actually touched 132 very soon. And this is a flat road. The only time i've hit that speed earlier is on the slightly downhill section between belapur and kharghar on the highway when the bike was about a month old.

                  Did the next mileage test, 200 bucks of premium (2.8L) got me about 155kms. Decided to try BP regular. 200 Rs. is 2.86 litres. Will know in a day or two. But the bike feels much rougher. Could be the hot afternoon air though...
                  Last edited by julianpaul; 05-15-2012, 05:54 PM.

                  Comment


                  • @Satish:

                    I always rode the thing on weekends, use to take it on straights, 8000-10000 RPM rides throughout, this was the reason it returned 320-340kms per tankful, which I still believe is a pretty good avg considering the fact i was hardly keeping it below 8000.

                    @Julian:

                    The rear wheel never moved freely on my FI too, but nevertheless the bike was / is Hoot to drive ! Those mad vibes, tacho shaking, explosive soundtrack and all ! It made me forget my KB100, which was the most exciting bike I rode before RTR FI happened.
                    And how's your FI ?
                    How many kms ?
                    Last edited by rennycornelius; 05-16-2012, 09:37 AM.
                    The Magician"

                    Comment


                    • Nice to see all experienced riders back on forum and about Fi i've got more than 52-53kmpl many times but usually i used to get around 45-48kmpl in mixed riding condition .
                      Its not enough to know how to twist the throttle; you must have judgement to know when and where to do it.

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post
                        @Julian:

                        The rear wheel never moved freely on my FI too, but nevertheless the bike was / is Hoot to drive ! Those mad vibes, tacho shaking, explosive soundtrack and all ! It made me forget my KB100, which was the most exciting bike I rode before RTR FI happened.
                        And how's your FI ?
                        How many kms ?
                        I think the problem was at the start I almost never used my rear brakes. Which probably led to my master cylinder jamming up due to non-use. The pedal action is almost non-existent. I had completely removed the entire setup and serviced everything myself, and installed a new major caliper kit. But i didn't open and clean the master cylinder. So i guess that's why my brake's binding. So now i try to use my rear brake occasionally to keep it free.

                        Totalled about 30k kms now, the bike is running awesome, but paint is quite fcuked, with nicks and scratches here and there. Due to the lack of lacquer coating on the matte finishes, the paint gets screwed quite easily. I've heard that since the hyperedge models, they've now got matte lacquer so the finish is better protected.

                        One thing to note is that the last few months, bike would sometimes turn off abruptly. I thought it was the ignition or kill switch so i opened them up and thoroughly cleaned with wd40 etc. and the problem vanished. Then i went to the svc one days for changing the chain-sprocket and both the mechs and me did some full throttle ripping to test the bike. Came and parked the bike in front of the svc and the electricals died completely. Found that the main fuse had blown, replaced it and that one blew too. Checked inside the headlight dome, and the main wire coming from the ignition switch had melted it's insulation and were shorting! Fixed that and the bike became so smooth and responsive, i couldn't believe i had been running it like that for so many months blaming the oil/petrol/weather/god etc. lol. This was probably the only major problem i've faced, and i didn't even know it!

                        Comment


                        • help!

                          Hello guys,
                          Its good to see the Fi owners in latest discussions.
                          I am experiencing a very awkward throttle lag from the last one week in my Fi, this throttle lag mostly rise up in lower rpms ( <3000 rpm).
                          My Fi is almost 4year old, 2008 model( first lot of Fis in Delhi) completed 42000 kms. Parts like ECU, injector, pump has been already replaced under warranty in 2009.
                          Last month get the service done from TVS including replacement of fuel filter, this throttle lag problem persists in only after servicing. Hence i was assuming the replaced fuel filter as main culprit as it might have blockage etc.
                          But day before yesterday when i was returning from my office, the problems start showing up during ride as bike turns off 2-3 times abruptly after some hiccups and then malfunction indicator lights up for few seconds than i restart the bike and it gets off. the same thing happened 2-3 times during my 15kms ride.Therefore fuel filter problem has been ruled out.
                          Next day went to service centre and get the bike checked with PC diagnostic tool but no malf code has been generated. The SVC guys suggested to replace the fuel pump which would cost around Rs. 5k. I dont know what to do?
                          BIKING ??? " A RELIGION "

                          Comment


                          • Somewhat similar problem to what i was facing.

                            You need to eliminate possible causes one by one. You will need a mech who knows what he's doing. First, bypass the ignition switch by using a jumper wire to directly short its contacts in the main wiring connector. Do the same for the kill switch connector. Apart from this, you will then have to check every component with a multimeter as described from page 20-25 of the service manual.

                            The Fi (rtr?) wiring harness is of especially poor quality. You should strip down the bike to the essentials and then check every nook and corner of the wiring for cuts or shorts.

                            The funny thing is that what seems like a fuel problem is often an electrical one, and what seems like an ignition problem is a fuel delivery issue! Experience counts big time...

                            P.s. since you mentioned changing the fuel filter, check that the injector hose (hose from filter to injector) is running in a smooth curve and not kinked in the middle. You may need to unscrew the filter from the tank so that it sits naturally. The mounting position is quite bad...

                            Ask the svc guys if you replace the fuel pump and the problem still persists, will they give you a refund? I think you need to contact your area service head...
                            Last edited by julianpaul; 05-16-2012, 07:17 PM.

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by julianpaul View Post
                              I think the problem was at the start I almost never used my rear brakes. Which probably led to my master cylinder jamming up due to non-use. The pedal action is almost non-existent. I had completely removed the entire setup and serviced everything myself, and installed a new major caliper kit. But i didn't open and clean the master cylinder. So i guess that's why my brake's binding. So now i try to use my rear brake occasionally to keep it free.!
                              Is the pedal's position stock or you lowered it ?
                              Remember I was having a hard time finding how to lower the entire thing and you came to rescue !

                              How's the brake fluid level acting up at the rear ? Mine used to demand frequent topups.

                              Originally posted by julianpaul View Post
                              Totalled about 30k kms now, the bike is running awesome, but paint is quite fcuked, with nicks and scratches here and there. Due to the lack of lacquer coating on the matte finishes, the paint gets screwed quite easily. I've heard that since the hyperedge models, they've now got matte lacquer so the finish is better protected
                              One problem I faced with the matt was the shine in patches, in tank and in side panel where the thigh used to rub.
                              It looked bad !
                              30000 sounds good !
                              I sold mine at some 13000-14000.

                              Originally posted by julianpaul View Post
                              One thing to note is that the last few months, bike would sometimes turn off abruptly. I thought it was the ignition or kill switch so i opened them up and thoroughly cleaned with wd40 etc. and the problem vanished. Then i went to the svc one days for changing the chain-sprocket and both the mechs and me did some full throttle ripping to test the bike. Came and parked the bike in front of the svc and the electricals died completely. Found that the main fuse had blown, replaced it and that one blew too. Checked inside the headlight dome, and the main wire coming from the ignition switch had melted it's insulation and were shorting! Fixed that and the bike became so smooth and responsive, i couldn't believe i had been running it like that for so many months blaming the oil/petrol/weather/god etc. lol. This was probably the only major problem i've faced, and i didn't even know it!
                              Fuse issue with TVS is a major problem right from the FIERO days.
                              The middle one is the main thing, make sure you're sand papering it once a month and you'll feel the difference in idling and at the initial throttle response.

                              My FI's electricals failed 5 times in total, and as I was running it without kick so I had to run start it all the five times.
                              3 outta five times was a wiring issue and twice was a blown up fuse.

                              And make sure you're changing the fuel filter at every 5000kms, its a ***** to replace, but do it every 5000kms.
                              Just break the filter and check out the mug it collects in 5000kms, it'll surprise you !

                              And the pipe which goes from the filter to injection needs a checking too.
                              Yours is at the factory setting ? If yes, then there is 90% of the chance that the Tank is resting on the pipe and there is so much bend in it that it restricts the flow by almost 30-40 %.
                              You remember my post where I have mentioned that how I changed the pipe and its position ? I changed the pipe with a AC pipe used in Maruti and I increased its length too to remove that bend, and to make the flow proper me and my mech had a hard time forming a loop in the wire too.
                              You can feel the diffrence after the change at 7000-10000 RPM
                              Check it in yours.


                              Originally posted by julianpaul View Post
                              The funny thing is that what seems like a fuel problem is often an electrical one, and what seems like an ignition problem is a fuel delivery issue! Experience counts big time.
                              +1

                              Originally posted by julianpaul View Post
                              P.s. since you mentioned changing the fuel filter, check that the injector hose (hose from filter to injector) is running in a smooth curve and not kinked in the middle. You may need to unscrew the filter from the tank so that it sits naturally. The mounting position is quite bad.
                              This I was talking above, the position of it.
                              Last edited by rennycornelius; 05-16-2012, 08:57 PM.
                              The Magician"

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post
                                Is the pedal's position stock or you lowered it ?
                                Remember I was having a hard time finding how to lower the entire thing and you came to rescue !

                                How's the brake fluid level acting up at the rear ? Mine used to demand frequent topups.
                                Pedals are lowered. Much lowered!

                                Fluid level is fine, running on DOT4. I'm pretty sure it's the master cylinder that's jammed, because it's the only thing i didn't open and clean.

                                Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post
                                One problem I faced with the matt was the shine in patches, in tank and in side panel where the thigh used to rub.
                                It looked bad !
                                30000 sounds good !
                                I sold mine at some 13000-14000.
                                The shine is still bearable, the main issue is without a lacquer coating the paint is too easily damaged. And because the tank is different i can't just use the hyperedge tank either

                                ~8k was done by a friend when he was borrowing my bike when his cbz was dead and another say 5k by my cousin. So i've actually done only about 15k lol

                                Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post
                                Fuse issue with TVS is a major problem right from the FIERO days.
                                The middle one is the main thing, make sure you're sand papering it once a month and you'll feel the difference in idling and at the initial throttle response.

                                My FI's electricals failed 5 times in total, and as I was running it without kick so I had to run start it all the five times.
                                3 outta five times was a wiring issue and twice was a blown up fuse.
                                I thought about that when i removed the dead fuse, and it's terminals are black corroded. But what about the contacts inside the fuse holder? Can't sand them, they would still be corroded right?

                                Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post
                                And make sure you're changing the fuel filter at every 5000kms, its a ***** to replace, but do it every 5000kms.
                                Just break the filter and check out the mug it collects in 5000kms, it'll surprise you !
                                Lol, first time i was a bit late and changed my filter at 11k. I bought my second filter shortly after that but still haven't fit it!

                                Now waiting for the fuel pump bolts to arrive at the svc, my old ones are rusted, and i wanna change the pump gasket when doing the filter. When we recently changed gautam's filter, and broke it open, we found quite a bit of dirt on the paper element, but i think the design is such that it won't really clog up the flow.

                                Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post
                                And the pipe which goes from the filter to injection needs a checking too.
                                Yours is at the factory setting ? If yes, then there is 90% of the chance that the Tank is resting on the pipe and there is so much bend in it that it restricts the flow by almost 30-40 %.
                                You remember my post where I have mentioned that how I changed the pipe and its position ? I changed the pipe with a AC pipe used in Maruti and I increased its length too to remove that bend, and to make the flow proper me and my mech had a hard time forming a loop in the wire too.
                                You can feel the diffrence after the change at 7000-10000 RPM
                                Check it in yours.
                                When i bought my bike, the injector hose had a factory installed kink and wouldn't rev above 5-6k rpm. They solved it by cutting the hose. But when i changed my filter i also bought a new hose and it's absolutely fine, without any kinks. I think it's only the installation that needs to be done carefully. In gautam's bike though, we had to unscrew the filter from the tank so that the hose wouldn't kink. dunno why his is different.

                                Comment

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